The Pearl Tide Seashell is a small lace ornament shaped like a scallop shell. Eight ribs spread out from a tiny base, the spaces between them fill with airy mesh, and the top edge finishes in seven rounded scallops. A slip-stitch outline frames the shape, and a beaded hanging loop finishes the top.
The sample is worked in one color, a soft ivory cotton thread. The gold, pearl and white shell beads on the hanger add a coastal look that works on a Christmas tree, a beach-themed wreath or a gift package.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished shell measures 4¼ in (10.8 cm) wide and 3½ in (8.9 cm) tall. With the beads and loop, the ornament hangs about 6½ in (16.5 cm) long.
The shell is worked flat in turned rows from a magic ring. Rows 1–7 build the fan of ribs and mesh, and Row 8 adds the scalloped top. Two border rounds then outline the whole shape, and the beaded hanger is worked directly off the center scallop. You make one piece, with no joining.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 4¼ in (10.8 cm) wide × 3½ in (8.9 cm) tall
- Hanging length: about 6½ in (16.5 cm) including beads and loop
- Skill level: Intermediate (you need to be comfortable with thread and chain-space lace)
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Size 3 cotton crochet thread
- Hook: 2.0 mm steel hook
- Number of pieces: 1
- Layout: Single fan-shaped motif, worked flat
- Piece size before border: 4 in (10.2 cm) wide × 3¼ in (8.3 cm) tall
- Border depth: about ⅛ in (0.3 cm) on every edge
Materials
Thread: Use a mercerized cotton crochet thread in size 3. Mercerized cotton has a slight sheen, keeps stitch definition well and holds its shape after starching. Avoid fuzzy or very soft threads, because the mesh arches will lose their crisp look.
- Ivory/cream: about 8 g, roughly 27 m (30 yd)
This amount includes a margin of about 25% for your gauge swatch, weaving in ends and the hanger.
Beads (for the hanger):
– 3 gold beads, 3–4 mm
– 1 ivory pearl bead, 8 mm
– 1 white shell-shaped bead, 10–12 mm, drilled top to bottom
Check that every bead hole fits size 3 thread before you start.
Tools:
– 2.0 mm steel crochet hook
– Big-eye beading needle, for stringing beads
– Small tapestry needle
– Sharp scissors
– Blocking board or foam mat
– Rustproof pins
– Spray starch or a diluted fabric stiffener
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- RS – right side
- *…* – repeat instructions between asterisks as directed
Special technique: rib dc. “Rib dc” is an ordinary dc worked into the top of a rib dc from the previous row. Stacking one on top of another row after row creates the 8 solid radiating lines. The pattern always tells you when a dc is a rib dc.
Turning chain: At the start of each fan row, ch 3 counts as the first rib dc.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge is not critical for an ornament, but it controls the final size and how cleanly the lace opens up. Work one complete shell first and check it at each stage below.
Basic gauge: Each dc row is about ⅜ in (1.0 cm) tall.
Checkpoint 1, after Row 4: Measure from the center of the magic ring to the top edge of Row 4. It should be about 1½ in (3.8 cm).
Checkpoint 2, after Row 7: The distance from the ring to the top edge should be about 2¾ in (7.0 cm).
Checkpoint 3, after Row 8 (before the border): The shell should be 4 in (10.2 cm) wide and 3¼ in (8.3 cm) tall.
Checkpoint 4, after the border: 4¼ in (10.8 cm) wide × 3½ in (8.9 cm) tall.
If the shell is too big: Change to a 1.75 mm hook, or keep the chains in the mesh rows tighter.
If the shell is too small: Change to a 2.25 mm hook. Also check that your dc stitches are not squashed short; pull each loop up to its full height.
Pattern
The Fan (Rows 1–7)
Row 1 (RS): Make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as dc), work 7 dc in ring. Pull the ring closed so the dc fan out into a half circle. Turn. (8 dc: these are the 8 ribs, with 7 gaps between them)
The tightly closed ring forms the small ribbed point at the base of the shell.
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as rib dc), *ch 1, rib dc in next dc*; repeat from * to * 6 more times, working the last rib dc in the top of the turning chain. Turn. (8 rib dc, 7 ch-1 sps; 15 sts)
Row 3: Ch 3, *ch 2, rib dc in next dc*; repeat from * to * 6 more times. Turn. (8 rib dc, 7 ch-2 sps)
Row 4: Ch 3, *ch 3, rib dc in next dc*; repeat from * to * 6 more times. Turn. (8 rib dc, 7 ch-3 sps)
Do Checkpoint 1 now. Lay the piece flat. The ribs should spread evenly like the spokes of a fan, without cupping.
Row 5 (growth row): Ch 3, *ch 2, dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, rib dc in next dc*; repeat from * to * 6 more times. Turn. (15 dc total: 8 rib dc + 7 center dc; 14 ch-2 sps)
The new center dc in each section starts a short inner rib. This divides every section in two and starts the arched mesh.
Row 6: Ch 3, *ch 3, dc in next dc*; repeat from * to * 13 more times. Work a rib dc on top of each rib and a dc on top of each center dc. Turn. (15 dc, 14 ch-3 sps)
Row 7 (growth row): Ch 3, *ch 2, dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, dc in next dc*; repeat from * to * 13 more times. Turn. (29 dc, 28 ch-2 sps)
Each of the 7 sections now contains, in order:
– the rib dc
– ch-2 sp
– side dc A
– ch-2 sp
– center dc
– ch-2 sp
– side dc B
– ch-2 sp
– the next rib dc
That gives 4 ch-2 spaces per section. 7 sections × 4 = 28 spaces, which matches the count.
Do Checkpoint 2 now.
The Scalloped Top (Row 8)
Each section between two ribs becomes one rounded scallop. The scallops sit high in the middle and dip down to a single sc on top of each rib. That dip creates the valleys between the 7 lobes.
Row 8: Ch 1, sc in first rib dc.
*2 hdc in next ch-2 sp, dc in side dc A, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in center dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in side dc B, 2 hdc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next rib dc*.
Repeat from * to * 6 more times. Work the final sc in the top of the turning chain. Do not turn, and do not fasten off.
Count per scallop: 4 hdc + 8 dc = 12 sts, plus 1 ch-1 tip.
Row total: 8 sc + (7 × 12) = 92 sts, plus 7 ch-1 tips.
The hdc next to each sc and the dc toward the center rise gradually, which gives each lobe its rounded curve.
Do Checkpoint 3 now: 4 in (10.2 cm) wide × 3¼ in (8.3 cm) tall.
Border
The border has two rounds. Round 1 makes a smooth sc frame, and Round 2 adds a raised slip-stitch outline that defines every scallop.
Border gauge: 2 sc per dc row-end, which is about 5 sc per 1 in (2.5 cm) along the straight side edges.
Round 1: Ch 1. Rotate the piece to work down the first side edge.
- First side edge: Work 2 sc in each row-end from Row 7 down to Row 1. That is 7 row-ends × 2 = 14 sc.
- Base point: Work 1 sc around the closed magic ring.
- Second side edge: Work 2 sc in each row-end from Row 1 up to Row 7, for 14 sc.
- Scalloped top: Sc in each of the 92 sts of Row 8, and work 3 sc in each ch-1 tip. That gives 92 + (7 × 3) = 113 sc.
Join with sl st to the first sc.
Round 1 total: 14 + 1 + 14 + 113 = 142 sc
Round 2: Working loosely, sl st in each sc around. Join to the first sl st. (142 sl sts) Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Why the math works:
– A size 3 dc row is about twice as tall as a sc, so 2 sc per row-end covers the side edge without stretching it or making it ripple.
– The 3 sc at each scallop tip give the curve enough extra stitches to stay flat.
– The single sc at each valley (on top of the Row 8 sc) keeps the dips sharp.
– The sc ends of Row 8 already sit at the top corners, so no extra corner stitches are needed.
– Round 2 adds only height (about ⅛ in / 0.3 cm on each edge), so it does not change the stitch count.
Beaded Hanger
The hanger is worked from the center (4th) scallop tip, using the middle sl st above the 3 sc.
String the beads first. Thread the beading needle with a 24 in (61.0 cm) tail cut from the ball, or with the working end of the ball. String the beads in this order:
- gold
- pearl
- gold
- shell bead (wide end first, so it points toward the shell when hung)
- gold
The last bead strung is the first one you will use.
- With the RS facing, join the beaded thread with sl st to the center sl st of the 4th scallop.
- Ch 2.
- Slide 1 gold bead up to the hook and ch 1 to lock it in place.
- Slide up the shell bead and ch 1.
- Slide up 1 gold bead and ch 1.
- Slide up the pearl and ch 1.
- Slide up the last gold bead and ch 1.
- Loop: Ch 30, then sl st into the ch-1 just above the top gold bead to form a loop.
- Firming round: Sl st into the back bump of each of the 30 chains around the loop. Join.
Fasten off. Weave the tail down through the bead chain and into the back of the shell.
The loop measures about 2 in (5.1 cm), and the bead stack adds about 1 in (2.5 cm).
Final Blocking
- Weave in all remaining ends along the ribs, where they will not show through the mesh.
- Wet the shell in cool water and press out the excess water in a towel. Do not wring it.
- Lay it RS up on a blocking board and shape it to 4¼ in (10.8 cm) wide × 3½ in (8.9 cm) tall.
- Pin the base point first, then the two outer side corners, then each scallop tip. Use 7 tip pins plus 2 side pins.
- Straighten the 8 ribs so they spread evenly from the base. Open each mesh arch with a pin tip.
- Spray with starch, or brush on the diluted stiffener, and saturate the thread evenly.
- Let it dry completely, at least 12 hours, before unpinning.
- Lay the hanger loop flat and starch it lightly so it holds an open teardrop shape.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- 8 ribs spread evenly from a tight base point
- 7 rounded scallops, all the same height
- Row counts check out: Row 4 = 8 dc, Row 5 = 15 dc, Row 7 = 29 dc, Row 8 = 92 sts plus 7 tips
- Border Round 1 = 142 sc, with 14 sc on each side edge
- The shell lies flat with no cupping or ruffling
- Size is 4¼ in (10.8 cm) × 3½ in (8.9 cm)
- Beads sit snugly with no slack thread between them
- The hanger is centered on the 4th scallop
- All ends are secured and hidden in solid stitches
Troubleshooting
The fan cups into a bowl. The chains in Rows 3–7 are too tight. Make the chains a little looser, or go up one hook size for the mesh rows only.
The fan ruffles. The chains are too loose, or you added extra stitches. Recount each row against the totals given.
The scallops look flat or pointed. Check that each scallop has both the hdc steps on the sides and the (dc, ch 1, dc) at the tip, and block each tip with a pin.
The side edges pucker. Use exactly 2 sc per row-end in Border Round 1. Fewer stitches will pull the edge in.
The magic ring has loosened. Tighten it with the tail and secure it with an extra stitch from the back.
The beads slide around. Make each locking ch-1 snug against its bead.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, then reshape and re-starch it flat. Store the ornament flat in tissue so the scallops and mesh keep their shape.
Final Notes
The measurement chain for this shell is:
– Each dc row is about ⅜ in (1.0 cm) tall.
– Row 4 reaches 1½ in (3.8 cm) from the ring.
– Row 7 reaches 2¾ in (7.0 cm).
– After Row 8, the shell is 4 in (10.2 cm) wide × 3¼ in (8.3 cm) tall.
– The border adds ⅛ in (0.3 cm) on each edge, for a finished 4¼ in (10.8 cm) × 3½ in (8.9 cm).
If each checkpoint matches, the finished shell will match too. Make one, block it well, and add beads in your own favorite tones.
Happy crocheting!