Coral crocheted ornament with lace flower pattern and red poinsettia, displayed among evergreens, red baubles, and pinecones on linen.

Poinsettia Lace Letter M Ornament Crochet Pattern

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This lace letter M ornament is made from small flower motifs in warm rust-orange cotton thread. Two straight legs, each three flower squares tall, frame a center diamond set on point that forms the V of the M. A twisted rope-style edge outlines the letter, and a layered red poinsettia with holly leaves and berries sits on the top right corner.

The colors are rust for the lace, deep red for the petals and berries, forest green for the leaves, and golden yellow for the flower center. The style is cozy and vintage, like a doily cut into a letter shape.

This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished ornament measures 5.6 in wide x 5.0 in tall (14.2 cm x 12.7 cm). The hanging loop adds about 2 in (5.1 cm).

To make it, you crochet seven identical lace flower squares. Six of them are joined into two legs, and the seventh hangs between the legs as a diamond. A two-round border with chain bridges outlines the letter. Then you add the loop and sew on the poinsettia.

Finished Size and Construction

  • Finished size: 5.6 in x 5.0 in (14.2 cm x 12.7 cm), plus a 2 in (5.1 cm) loop
  • Skill level: Intermediate
  • Terminology: US crochet terms
  • Yarn weight: Size 3 cotton crochet thread (#1 Super Fine / fingering)
  • Hook: 2.25 mm (US B-1)
  • Number of pieces: 7 lace motifs (6 squares + 1 diamond, all the same motif), plus a poinsettia appliqué (2 petal layers, 3 leaves, 3 berries)
  • Layout: Two legs of 3 squares each, with 1 diamond between the top squares
  • Piece size: 1.5 in x 1.5 in (3.8 cm x 3.8 cm), 13 sc per side
  • Size before border: 5.1 in x 4.5 in (13.0 cm x 11.4 cm)
  • Border depth: 0.25 in (0.6 cm) per edge, 2 rounds

Materials

Use mercerized size 3 cotton crochet thread, about 125 m per 50 g. It keeps the petal points crisp and blocks well. Avoid fuzzy or stretchy fibers, which blur the lace.

  • Rust orange (main): 32 g (80 m)
  • Deep red (petals and berries): 5 g (12 m)
  • Forest green (leaves): 4 g (10 m)
  • Golden yellow (center): 1 g (2.5 m)

The quantities include about 20% extra, which covers a test motif.

Tools:

  • 2.25 mm (US B-1) crochet hook
  • Tapestry needle
  • Rust-proof pins and a foam blocking board
  • Light spray starch
  • Ruler
  • Scissors

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch – chain
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • sc – single crochet
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • dc – double crochet
  • tr – treble crochet
  • st(s) – stitch(es)
  • sp(s) – space(s)
  • sk – skip
  • rep – repeat
  • RS – right side

Reverse sc (rev sc, or crab stitch): Work from left to right (if you crochet right-handed). Insert the hook in the next stitch to the right, yarn over and pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through both loops.

Picot: Ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook.

Gauge and Checkpoints

Make one full motif first, then wet it, pin it, and let it dry.

  • After Round 1: the ring is about 0.4 in (1.0 cm) across.
  • After Round 3: the flower is about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across, tip to tip.
  • After Round 5: the square is 1.5 in x 1.5 in (3.8 cm x 3.8 cm) with 13 sc per side. That works out to about 8.7 sc per inch (3.4 sc per cm).

If your square is too big, switch to a 2.0 mm hook. If it’s too small, switch to a 2.5 mm hook. Being off by 0.1 in (0.3 cm) per motif adds up to 0.3 in (0.8 cm) along each leg.

A burgundy crocheted flower with golden center and green leaves on salmon mesh against softly blurred warm bokeh lights.

Lace Flower Motif (Make 7)

Use rust orange.

Foundation: Ch 4, sl st in first ch to form a ring.

Round 1: Ch 1, 16 sc in ring, sl st in first sc to join. (16 sc)

Round 2: Ch 1, sc in same st, ch 3, sk 1 st, sc in next st, ch 3, sk 1 st; rep from * 6 more times, sl st in first sc to join. (8 sc, 8 ch-3 sps)

Round 3 (petals): Sl st in first ch-3 sp. Work (sc, hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc, sc) in each ch-3 sp, then sl st in first sc to join. (8 pointed petals, 56 sts)

Round 4 (squaring): Sl st in next hdc, dc, and tr to reach the first petal tip. Petals 1, 3, 5, and 7 become the corners. Petals 2, 4, 6, and 8 become the side centers.

Ch 3 (counts as dc), ch 3, dc in same tr, ch 5, sc in tr of next petal, ch 5, (dc, ch 3, dc) in tr of next petal, ch 5, sc in tr of next petal, ch 5; rep from * 2 more times, sl st in top of beginning ch-3 to join. (8 dc, 4 sc, 4 corner ch-3 sps, 8 ch-5 sps)

Round 5 (edge): Sl st in first corner ch-3 sp. Ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in same sp, 5 sc in next ch-5 sp, sc in next sc, 5 sc in next ch-5 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next corner sp; rep from * 2 more times, then 5 sc in next ch-5 sp, sc in next sc, 5 sc in last ch-5 sp, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Count: Each side has 1 corner sc + 5 + 1 + 5 + 1 corner sc = 13 sc, which includes both corner sc. The total is 4 x 13 = 52 sc, plus 4 corner ch-2 sps.

Poinsettia Appliqué

Back petal layer (deep red): Start with a magic ring.

  • Round 1: Ch 1, 5 sc in ring, sl st in first sc to join. (5 sc)
  • Round 2: Ch 7, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in last ch, sl st in next sc of Round 1; rep from * 4 more times. (5 petals)

This layer is about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across. Fasten off and leave a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail for sewing.

Front petal layer (deep red): Work the same as the back layer, but in Round 2 work each petal as: ch 5, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in last ch, sl st in next sc. This layer is about 1 in (2.5 cm) across.

Holly leaf (forest green, make 3): Ch 10.

  • Side 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, picot, dc in next 2 ch, picot, dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch.
  • Tip: (Sc, ch 3, sc) in last ch.
  • Side 2: Working along the other side of the foundation ch: sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, picot, dc in next 2 ch, picot, dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in last ch, sl st in first sc. Fasten off.

Each leaf is about 1 in (2.5 cm) long and has 4 picot points.

Berry (deep red, make 3): Ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sl st to join. Tuck the starting tail inside. Thread the end tail through the 5 sc and pull it tight to make a ball about 0.25 in (0.6 cm) across.

Assemble the flower: Place the front layer on the back layer, turned so its petals sit between the back petals. Sew through both centers. With yellow, add 5 French knots in the center.

Make All Pieces

  • Rust orange: 7 lace motifs (6 squares, 1 diamond)
  • Deep red: 1 back petal layer, 1 front petal layer, 3 berries
  • Forest green: 3 holly leaves
  • Golden yellow: 5 French knots

Block all 7 motifs to 1.5 in (3.8 cm), then lay them out RS up:

          LEFT LEG    CENTER     RIGHT LEG
Row 1:    [ S1 ]      < D >      [ S4 ]
Row 2:    [ S2 ]        V        [ S5 ]
Row 3:    [ S3 ]                 [ S6 ]

S1 to S6 are the squares. D is the seventh motif, turned 45 degrees so its corners point up, down, left, and right. The diagonal of a 1.5 in (3.8 cm) square is about 2.1 in (5.3 cm), so leave a 2.1 in (5.3 cm) gap between the legs.

Joining

Legs: Join S1 to S2, S2 to S3, S4 to S5, and S5 to S6 with a flat slip-stitch seam. Hold each pair RS up with the edges touching. Sl st through both corner ch-2 sps together. Then sl st through the back loops of each matching pair of sc, 13 to 13. Finish with a sl st through the next pair of corner ch-2 sps. That’s 15 sl st per seam: one per stitch pair, with nothing added. Keep the sl sts as loose as your sc so the seam doesn’t pucker.

Diamond: Set D between the legs. Its left corner ch-2 sp goes where the S1/S2 corner sps meet on the inner side of the left leg. Its right corner goes to the matching S4/S5 point on the right leg. Sew each joint with 3 whipstitches through all three ch-2 sps.

The top corner of D now sits about 0.4 in (1.0 cm) below the top of the legs. Its bottom point is about 2.6 in (6.6 cm) below the top.

Size checkpoint: Each leg should be 4.5 in (11.4 cm) long, and the whole piece 5.1 in (13.0 cm) wide.

Border

Border gauge: Work 1 sc into each motif sc. This keeps the border at the same 8.7 sc per inch (3.4 sc per cm) as the motifs, so it lies flat. In Round 1, skip the joined ch-2 sps at every seam and at both diamond joints, and work nothing into them.

Round 1 (sc): With RS facing, join rust orange in the bottom-left outer corner ch-2 sp of S3. Work clockwise:

  1. (Sc, ch 2, sc) in this corner sp.
  2. Left outer side: 39 sc (3 x 13).
  3. Top-left corner of S1: (sc, ch 2, sc).
  4. Top of S1: 13 sc.
  5. Bridges: sc in top-inner corner sp of S1, ch 10, sc in top corner sp of D, ch 10, sc in top-inner corner sp of S4.
  6. Top of S4: 13 sc.
  7. Top-right corner: (sc, ch 2, sc).
  8. Right outer side: 39 sc.
  9. Bottom-right corner: (sc, ch 2, sc).
  10. Bottom of S6: 13 sc.
  11. Bottom-inner corner of S6: (sc, ch 2, sc).
  12. Right leg inner side, up to the diamond joint: 26 sc (2 x 13).
  13. Lower-right side of D: 13 sc.
  14. Bottom point of D: (sc, ch 2, sc).
  15. Lower-left side of D: 13 sc.
  16. Left leg inner side, down from the joint: 26 sc.
  17. Bottom-inner corner of S3: (sc, ch 2, sc).
  18. Bottom of S3: 13 sc. Sl st in first sc to join.

Count: The sides add up to 39 + 13 + 13 + 39 + 13 + 26 + 13 + 13 + 26 + 13 = 208 sc. Add 7 corners x 2 sc = 14 sc and the 3 bridge sc, for a total of 225 sc, 7 ch-2 sps, and 2 ch-10 bridges.

The upper inner sides of S1 and S4 and the upper sides of D get no border. With the bridges, they form two open triangular windows.

Round 2 (rope edge): Ch 1. Working left to right, rev sc in each sc, 3 rev sc in each ch-2 sp, and 12 rev sc in each ch-10 bridge. Sl st in first st to join, then fasten off. (225 + 21 + 24 = 270 rev sc)

Why the math works: Each straight side starts with (motifs along that side) x 13 sc. For example, 39 sc at 8.7 sc per inch is 4.5 in (11.4 cm), which is exactly the leg length. Each 10-chain bridge spans the 1.15 in (2.9 cm) slant from leg top to diamond top. Working 12 rev sc into each bridge gives it a little ease, so it stays straight without pulling. The two rounds add 0.25 in (0.6 cm) to each outer edge, so 5.1 x 4.5 in (13.0 x 11.4 cm) becomes 5.6 x 5.0 in (14.2 x 12.7 cm).

Hanging loop: Join rust orange with a sl st in the Round 1 sc at D’s top corner. Ch 36, then sl st in the same st. Work 44 sc into the loop and sl st in the same st again. Fasten off. The loop stands about 2 in (5.1 cm) tall.

Final Blocking

  1. Soak the ornament in cool water for 10 minutes, then press out the water in a towel.
  2. Pin it RS up to 5.6 in x 5.0 in (14.2 cm x 12.7 cm), pinning the 7 corners first.
  3. Keep the legs parallel, 2.1 in (5.3 cm) apart along their inner edges.
  4. Pin the bridges straight and every petal tip outward.
  5. Mist with starch and let it dry completely.
  6. Sew on the leaves first, pointing left, right, and down-right. Center them on S4, 0.5 in (1.3 cm) below the top edge.
  7. Sew the poinsettia over the leaf bases, then sew the 3 berries in a cluster just below it.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

  • [ ] All 7 motifs are 1.5 in (3.8 cm) with 13 sc per side.
  • [ ] Each leg is 4.5 in (11.4 cm) before the border, and all seams lie flat.
  • [ ] The diamond is centered, with its point about 2.6 in (6.6 cm) below the top.
  • [ ] Border Round 1 has 225 sc; Round 2 has 270 rev sc.
  • [ ] The finished size is 5.6 x 5.0 in (14.2 x 12.7 cm).
  • [ ] The loop is firm and centered, and the appliqué is secure.
  • [ ] All ends are woven in.

Troubleshooting

  • The flower cups: Round 3 is too tight. Loosen your tension or go up a hook size.
  • The square looks round: Pin the corner petals out firmly when blocking.
  • A seam puckers: Redo it with looser sl sts.
  • The legs splay apart: Add a fourth whipstitch at each diamond joint, then reblock.
  • A bridge sags: Work 13 rev sc into it instead of 12, or starch it again.
  • A straight side ripples: Check that you skipped the ch-2 sps at the seams.
  • The poinsettia flops: Tack each back petal tip down with a small stitch.

Care

Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, roll in a towel to press out the water, and reshape flat to dry. Store the ornament flat in tissue paper.

Rust-red crocheted alpaca ornament with poinsettia, hanging from Christmas tree branch with warm golden lights.

Final Notes

Every measurement builds on the one before. One motif is 13 sc per side and measures 1.5 in (3.8 cm). Three motifs make a 4.5 in (11.4 cm) leg. Two legs plus a 2.1 in (5.3 cm) diamond make 5.1 x 4.5 in (13.0 x 11.4 cm). A 0.25 in (0.6 cm) border brings it to 5.6 x 5.0 in (14.2 x 12.7 cm). If your first motif matches the gauge, the rest of the ornament will come out the right size.

Happy crocheting!

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