This airy curtain is made of lace star motifs that hang in vertical strands, so sunlight shines through every eyelet. Each six-pointed star has a spoked center, a solid ring, and six open-windowed points, and a full tassel finishes the bottom of each strand.
The palette is soft and warm: pale butter yellow and light greige-beige, arranged in a checkerboard. Colors alternate down every strand, and neighboring strands start with opposite colors. The style is cottage-meets-boho, and it works well in a kitchen, a reading nook, or a doorway.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished curtain is 44.8 in (113.8 cm) wide and 53 in (134.6 cm) long from the top of the hanging loops to the tassel tips.
Construction overview: you crochet 90 stars in 5 rounds each. You join them top to bottom with join-as-you-go during the last round, which makes 10 strands of 9 stars. Then you add a hanging loop to the top of each strand and a tassel to the bottom. There is no sewing and no separate joining round.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 44.8 in (113.8 cm) wide × 53 in (134.6 cm) long
- Skill level: Intermediate (lace motifs, join-as-you-go)
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: DK (weight 3) cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 4.0 mm (G-6)
- Number of pieces: 90 star motifs, 10 hanging loops, 10 tassels
- Layout: 10 strands across × 9 stars down
- Piece size: each star is 5 in (12.7 cm) tip to tip vertically and 4.3 in (10.9 cm) side tip to side tip
- Size before finishing (stars only): each strand is 45 in (114.3 cm) long
- Border depth: no border. Instead, each strand gets a 1 in (2.5 cm) hanging loop at the top and a 7 in (17.8 cm) tassel at the bottom.
Materials
Yarn: Choose a smooth DK cotton or cotton blend at about 110 m per 50 g. Cotton holds the star points crisply and doesn’t sag when it hangs. Avoid fuzzy or very stretchy yarns, because they blur the lace and make strands grow.
- Color A, butter yellow: 250 g (550 m), five 50 g balls
- Color B, greige/beige: 250 g (550 m), five 50 g balls
Each color is used for 45 stars (about 3.5 g each), 5 tassels (about 7 g each), and 5 hanging loops. That comes to roughly 195 g per color. The quantities above include a margin for gauge differences and swatching.
Tools:
– 4.0 mm (G-6) crochet hook
– Tapestry needle
– Stitch markers
– Stiff cardboard cut to 8 in (20.3 cm) tall, for the tassels
– Blocking mat, rust-proof pins, and a spray bottle
– 10 curtain rings or clip hooks
– Curtain rod at least 48 in (121.9 cm) long
– Scissors and a tape measure
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet
- sp(s) – space(s)
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rep – repeat
Special stitch – Point: Work all of the following into one ch-9 loop: 2 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, tr, ch 3, tr, 2 dc, 2 hdc, 2 sc. That’s 14 stitches plus 1 ch-3 tip.
Special technique – Joined Point: Work it like a Point, but replace the ch 3 at the tip with: ch 1, sl st into the ch-3 tip of the star above, ch 1. The stitch count stays the same.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Make one full star and block it before starting the project. The whole curtain depends on this one measurement.
- After Round 1: 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across
- After Round 2: 2 in (5.1 cm) across
- After Round 3: 2.75 in (7.0 cm) across
- After Round 5, blocked: 5 in (12.7 cm) from tip to tip and 4.3 in (10.9 cm) from side tip to side tip
If your star is too big (5.25 in / 13.3 cm or more), go down to a 3.75 mm hook. If it’s too small (4.75 in / 12.1 cm or less), go up to a 4.5 mm hook. Even a small difference adds up over 9 stars: 0.25 in (0.6 cm) per star changes each strand by 2.25 in (5.7 cm).
Star Motif
Make each star in a single color. Fasten off between colors.
Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as dc), then work 11 dc in the ring. Sl st to the top of the ch-3. Pull the ring tight. (12 dc)
Round 2: Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2). Dc in the next dc, ch 2. Rep from * 10 more times. Sl st to the 3rd ch of the ch-5. (12 dc, 12 ch-2 sps) These are the spokes.
Round 3: Sl st into the first ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc) and work 2 dc in the same sp. Work 3 dc in each of the remaining 11 ch-2 sps. Sl st to the top of the ch-3. (36 dc) This makes the solid ring around the spokes. The Round 2 spaces stay open as 12 eyelets.
Round 4: Ch 1. Sc in the same st as the join. Ch 9, skip 5 dc, sc in the next dc. Rep from * 4 more times. Ch 9, skip the last 5 dc, and sl st to the first sc. (6 sc, 6 ch-9 loops)
Check: 6 sc + (6 × 5 skipped) = 36, which uses every stitch of Round 3.
Round 5: Ch 1. Sc in the same sc as the join (this is a valley). Work a Point in the next ch-9 loop, then sc in the next sc. Rep from * 4 more times. Work a Point in the last ch-9 loop. Sl st to the first sc. Fasten off.
(90 sts: 6 valley sc + 6 × 14 point sts, plus 6 ch-3 tips)
Each Point curves around its ch-9 loop. The sc, hdc, dc, and tr build up the height on each side, which forms an open triangular window with a picot tip. The first Point you work is Point 1 (top). The fourth Point is directly opposite it, so that’s Point 4 (bottom). Mark both tips with stitch markers.
Make All Pieces
Each strand is worked from top to bottom. Strand type 1 starts with yellow and Strand type 2 starts with beige. You need 5 of each type.
- Strand type 1 (×5): Y, B, Y, B, Y, B, Y, B, Y (5 yellow + 4 beige stars)
- Strand type 2 (×5): B, Y, B, Y, B, Y, B, Y, B (5 beige + 4 yellow stars)
- Total: 45 yellow stars + 45 beige stars = 90 stars
Layout grid (strands 1 to 10 run left to right; Row 1 is at the top):
Row 1: Y B Y B Y B Y B Y B
Row 2: B Y B Y B Y B Y B Y
Row 3: Y B Y B Y B Y B Y B
Row 4: B Y B Y B Y B Y B Y
Row 5: Y B Y B Y B Y B Y B
Row 6: B Y B Y B Y B Y B Y
Row 7: Y B Y B Y B Y B Y B
Row 8: B Y B Y B Y B Y B Y
Row 9: Y B Y B Y B Y B Y B
Tassel: Y B Y B Y B Y B Y B
Odd-numbered strands are type 1 and even-numbered strands are type 2. Each tassel matches the bottom star of its strand.
Joining
Method: Join as you go, tip to tip, during Round 5.
- Make Star 1 of the strand completely, following the pattern.
- For Star 2, work Rounds 1 to 4 as usual. In Round 5, work Point 1 as a Joined Point: tr, ch 1, sl st into the ch-3 tip of Point 4 on Star 1, ch 1, tr. Finish the round normally.
- Repeat for Stars 3 to 9. Each new Point 1 joins to Point 4 of the star above it.
Stitch-to-stitch logic: The ch 1 + sl st + ch 1 takes the place of the ch 3, so no stitches are added or lost. Every star keeps its 90 stitches and 6 tips. Because only the top and bottom points are joined, the other four points stay free. That’s what gives the curtain its clean star outline.
Tension advice: Keep the sl st snug but don’t tighten it hard. If the join is too tight, the tips pucker. If it’s too loose, the strand stretches when it hangs. Before you join, check that the new star is facing the same side as the one above it, with right sides toward you.
Size checkpoint: Three joined stars should measure 15 in (38.1 cm) from top tip to bottom tip. A finished 9-star strand should measure 45 in (114.3 cm).
Hanging layout: The strands are not joined to each other side to side. Hang them 4.5 in (11.4 cm) apart, center to center. Since each star is 4.3 in (10.9 cm) wide, this leaves a 0.2 in (0.5 cm) gap between side tips, so the stars look like they’re almost touching. The total width is (9 × 4.5 in) + 4.3 in = 44.8 in (113.8 cm).
Border: Hanging Loops and Tassels
This curtain has no conventional border. The free star tips make the edge. The edge finishing is the hanging loops at the top and the tassels at the bottom.
Edge gauge: A ch-12 loop with 18 sc worked over it should hang 1 in (2.5 cm) above the top tip. A finished tassel should be 7 in (17.8 cm) long.
Hanging loop (make 10, in the color of the top star):
1. Join yarn with a sl st in the ch-3 tip of Point 1 on Star 1.
2. Ch 12, then sl st in the same ch-3 tip. (1 ch-12 loop)
3. Ch 1 and work 18 sc into the loop. Sl st to the first sc. Fasten off and weave in the end. (18 sc)
Why the math works: 18 sc over 12 ch is 1.5 sc per chain. That packs the loop into a firm ring that doesn’t stretch under the weight of 9 stars and a tassel.
Tassel (make 10: 5 yellow, 5 beige):
1. Wrap yarn 30 times around the 8 in (20.3 cm) card.
2. Slide a 10 in (25.4 cm) length of yarn under the wraps at the top and tie it tightly. Leave both tails long.
3. Cut the wraps along the bottom edge. You now have 30 strands, each 16 in (40.6 cm) long, folded in half to make 60 ends.
4. To make the rounded head, tuck a 0.75 in (1.9 cm) ball of scrap yarn in the same color under the fold.
5. Wrap a separate length of yarn tightly 8 times around the bundle, 1 in (2.5 cm) below the top, just under the scrap ball. Knot it and bury the ends inside the tassel.
6. Thread the tie tails through the ch-3 tip of Point 4 on Star 9 and knot them securely. Bury the ends in the tassel.
7. Trim the ends evenly so the tassel is 7 in (17.8 cm) long.
Why the math works: The 8 in (20.3 cm) card gives 1 in (2.5 cm) of extra length to trim off. The tassel ends up at exactly 7 in (17.8 cm), so the strand measures 1 in + 45 in + 7 in = 53 in (134.6 cm).
Final Blocking
- Block each finished strand separately, before you add its tassel.
- Lay the strand flat on blocking mats, right side up.
- Pin the top and bottom tips of each star in a straight line, 5 in (12.7 cm) apart.
- Pin the four side tips of each star so each star is 4.3 in (10.9 cm) wide.
- Pin the open window of each Point into a neat triangle.
- Spray the strand until it’s evenly damp, but not soaked.
- Let it dry completely, which takes about 12 to 24 hours.
- Unpin the strand, attach the tassel, and steam the tassel lightly to straighten it.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- [ ] There are 90 stars: 45 yellow and 45 beige
- [ ] Every star has 90 stitches and 6 tips
- [ ] Each star measures 5 in (12.7 cm) × 4.3 in (10.9 cm)
- [ ] Each strand is 45 in (114.3 cm) before the loop and tassel are added
- [ ] Each finished strand is 53 in (134.6 cm)
- [ ] The checkerboard order matches the layout grid
- [ ] The hanging loops are firm and have 18 sc each
- [ ] Tassels alternate yellow and beige and are 7 in (17.8 cm) long
- [ ] All ends are woven in securely
- [ ] Strands hang 4.5 in (11.4 cm) apart, for a total width of 44.8 in (113.8 cm)
Troubleshooting
The points are curling. Your Round 5 stitches are probably too tight. Loosen your tension on the tr and dc, or block again with more pins.
The center is ruffling. You may have more than 36 dc in Round 3. Count again and make sure each ch-2 sp has exactly 3 dc.
The star is lopsided. Check that Round 4 skips exactly 5 dc each time, so the six loops are evenly spaced.
The strands are different lengths. Measure each star. Re-block any short stars, and remake any that are more than 0.25 in (0.6 cm) off.
Strands twist when hung. Make sure every star faces right side forward. Blocking the strand before you hang it also helps.
The tassels look thin. Use 35 wraps instead of 30. You’ll need about 1 g more yarn per tassel.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with a mild detergent and press the water out gently. Re-pin the strands flat to dry, the same way you blocked them.
Final Notes
Everything in this curtain follows from one measurement chain. A 5 in (12.7 cm) star gives a 45 in (114.3 cm) strand. Adding a 1 in (2.5 cm) loop and a 7 in (17.8 cm) tassel gives a finished length of 53 in (134.6 cm). Ten strands spaced 4.5 in (11.4 cm) apart give a width of 44.8 in (113.8 cm). If your first blocked star measures right, the rest of the curtain will too.
Happy crocheting!