This bag holder is a long, open-lattice tube that hangs from a hook and holds a whole stash of plastic grocery bags. You stuff bags in through the top and pull them out one at a time through the cinched bottom. The diamond mesh shows the bags inside, so you can see at a glance when it’s time to refill.
The sample is shown in two colorways: deep teal and dusty rose. Each holder is one complete piece. Make one or make a pair in different colors. A smooth, chunky cotton cord gives crisp V-shaped junctions and a firm tube that keeps its shape.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder measures 6 in (15.2 cm) wide laid flat (12 in / 30.5 cm around) and 19 in (48.3 cm) long, not counting the hanging strap.
Construction is simple and seamless. You start at the bottom with a foundation ring and work a solid band that includes an eyelet round for the drawstring. Next comes a V-stitch lattice worked in joined rounds, then a solid top band. The finishing “border” is a slip-stitch rim, a hanging strap and a chain drawstring tied in a bow.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat × 19 in (48.3 cm) long
- Circumference: 12 in (30.5 cm)
- Skill level: Easy / Advanced Beginner
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Bulky (#5) cotton or cotton-blend cord
- Hook: 6.0 mm (J-10)
- Number of pieces: 1 tube per holder (the photo shows two separate holders in two colors)
- Layout: Worked bottom-up in joined rounds, not turned
- Piece size: 36 stitches around × 32 rounds
- Size before border: 6 in (15.2 cm) flat × 19 in (48.3 cm) long
- Border depth: The slip-stitch rim adds less than 0.25 in (0.6 cm). The strap arches about 4 in (10.2 cm) above the rim.
Materials
Yarn: Choose a smooth, round bulky cotton cord or a chunky cotton blend. Cotton holds its shape when the tube is full, and it doesn’t stretch out under the weight of the bags. Avoid fuzzy or very stretchy acrylics, because they blur the lattice and let the tube sag.
- Teal (Color A): 130 g, about 180 m, for one holder
- Dusty rose (Color B): 130 g, about 180 m, for a second holder (optional)
These quantities include a margin of about 15% for swatching, the strap and the drawstring.
Tools:
– 6.0 mm (J-10) crochet hook
– Locking stitch marker
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– Measuring tape
– Spray bottle and a rolled towel or a cardboard tube for blocking
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sk – skip
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- Rnd – round
- beg – beginning
Special stitch: V-stitch (V-st): Work (dc, ch 1, dc) in the stitch or space indicated.
Beginning V-st: Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), dc in the same stitch or space.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Solid gauge: 12 sc × 12 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm), worked in the round.
Lattice gauge: 3 lattice repeats (V-st + ch 3) = 4 in (10.2 cm) around, and 4 lattice rounds = 3 in (7.6 cm) tall.
Use the bottom band as your gauge swatch. After Round 5, lay the ring flat and measure it.
Checkpoints:
– After Rnd 1: The ring measures 6 in (15.2 cm) flat.
– After Rnd 5: The bottom band is 2 in (5.1 cm) tall.
– After Rnd 9 (4 lattice rounds): The lattice section is 3 in (7.6 cm) tall.
– After Rnd 25: The lattice section is 15 in (38.1 cm) tall and the total length is 17 in (43.2 cm).
– After Rnd 31: The total length is 19 in (48.3 cm).
If your piece is too big: Change to a hook 0.5 mm smaller and restart. Don’t drop stitches, because the lattice needs a multiple of 4.
If your piece is too small: Change to a hook 0.5 mm larger.
If only the length is off: Add or remove lattice rounds. Each one changes the length by 0.75 in (1.9 cm).
Pattern
Bottom Band
Foundation: Ch 36. Without twisting the chain, join with a sl st to the first ch to form a ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around; join with a sl st to the first sc. (36 sc)
Place a marker in the first stitch of each round and move it up as you go.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around; join. (36 sc)
Rnd 3 (eyelet round): Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), sk next st, dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st; repeat from * 16 more times; join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-4. (18 dc + 18 ch-1 sps = 36 sts)
These 18 eyelets will hold the drawstring.
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp around; join. (18 + 18 = 36 sc)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in each st around; join. (36 sc)
Checkpoint: The band is 2 in (5.1 cm) tall and 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat.
Lattice Body
Rnd 6 (lattice setup): Work a beg V-st in the first st, ch 3, sk next 3 sts, V-st in next st, ch 3, sk next 3 sts; repeat from * 7 more times; join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-4. (9 V-sts + 9 ch-3 sps)
Check the setup: V-sts land in stitches 1, 5, 9 and so on up to 33, and stitches 34–36 are skipped. That gives 9 repeats × 4 sts = 36 sts used.
Rnd 7 (lattice round): Sl st in the next ch-1 sp, sl st in the next dc, sl st in the next ch-3 sp. Work a beg V-st in the same ch-3 sp, ch 3, V-st in next ch-3 sp, ch 3; repeat from * 7 more times; join to the 3rd ch of beg ch-4. (9 V-sts + 9 ch-3 sps)
Each new V-st sits in a ch-3 space, so it lands halfway between two V-sts of the round below. Each ch-3 passes over a V-st below. This half-repeat shift on every round creates the diamond openings and the fan-shaped V junctions.
Rnds 8–25: Repeat Rnd 7 eighteen more times. Each round has 9 V-sts + 9 ch-3 sps. That makes 20 lattice rounds in total, Rnds 6–25.
Checkpoint: The lattice is 15 in (38.1 cm) tall and the tube is 17 in (43.2 cm) long. The diamonds should line up in neat diagonal lines and the tube should not spiral. If it leans, check that each round starts with the 3 slip stitches exactly as written.
Top Band
Rnd 26 (conversion round): Sl st in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in the same sp, 3 sc in next ch-3 sp, sc in ch-1 sp of next V-st, 3 sc in next ch-3 sp; repeat from * 7 more times; join. (9 sc worked 1 per V-st + 27 sc worked into the ch-3 sps = 36 sc)
Rnds 27–31: Ch 1, sc in each st around; join. (36 sc in each round)
Checkpoint: The top band (Rnds 26–31) is 2 in (5.1 cm) tall, and the tube is 19 in (48.3 cm) long and 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat. Don’t fasten off. Continue straight into the border.
Border: Top Rim, Hanging Strap and Drawstring
Border gauge: The border uses the same solid gauge of 12 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm). With the tube laid flat, each side holds 18 sts. Your marker sits at one fold and stitch 19 sits at the opposite fold.
Rnd 32 (rim): Ch 1, sl st loosely in each st around; join to the first sl st. (36 sl st, 18 per flat side)
Keep the slip stitches loose enough that the rim still measures 6 in (15.2 cm) flat. A tight rim pulls the opening in and makes refilling awkward.
Hanging strap:
1. Ch 30, about 10 in (25.4 cm) long.
2. Sk the next 17 sts of Rnd 32 and sl st in the 19th st, at the opposite fold. That leaves 17 sts on each side between the anchors: sts 2–18 and sts 20–36.
3. Turn. Work 1 sc in each ch of the strap. (30 sc)
4. Sl st in the first st of Rnd 32. Fasten off.
The strap arches about 4 in (10.2 cm) above the rim.
Drawstring:
1. Ch 90, about 30 in (76.2 cm) long.
2. Sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (89 sl st)
3. Fasten off and tie an overhand knot at each end.
Starting at the center front, weave the drawstring in and out through all 18 eyelets of Rnd 3 so both ends exit side by side. Pull the ends until the bottom opening is about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) across, then tie a bow with two loops. The loops should be about 2 in (5.1 cm) long.
Why the math works: Every stage uses 36 stitches. That’s 9 lattice repeats × 4 sts = 36, and the conversion round gives 9 + 27 = 36. This splits evenly into two flat sides of 18. The strap anchors at stitches 1 and 19, exactly opposite each other, so the holder hangs straight. The eyelet round has 18 eyelets, an even number, so both drawstring ends come out at the front.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends before blocking. Hide them in the solid bands, not in the lattice.
- Slide a rolled towel or a cardboard tube about 4 in (10.2 cm) across inside the holder.
- Mist it evenly with water until the stitches are damp but not dripping.
- Ease the tube to 6 in (15.2 cm) flat and 19 in (48.3 cm) long. Nudge the V-sts so the diamonds open evenly.
- Straighten any diagonal lines that lean.
- Leave it to dry completely, standing upright or laid on its side.
- Remove the form, thread the drawstring and tie the bow.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Every solid round has 36 sts.
- Every lattice round has 9 V-sts and 9 ch-3 sps.
- There are 20 lattice rounds and the tube does not spiral.
- The finished size is 6 in (15.2 cm) flat × 19 in (48.3 cm) long.
- The strap is anchored at stitches 1 and 19, on opposite folds.
- The drawstring passes through all 18 eyelets and both ends exit at the front.
- The bow holds the bottom at about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) across.
- All ends are woven into the solid bands.
Troubleshooting
The tube spirals: You probably skipped one of the starting slip stitches on a lattice round. Rip back to the round where the lean starts and redo it.
The diamonds look like columns: Make sure each V-st goes into the ch-3 space, not into the ch-1 space of the V below.
The opening is too tight: Redo Rnd 32 more loosely, or skip the rim.
Bags fall out of the bottom: Pull the drawstring tighter or tie a double knot under the bow.
The strap stretches: Work a second row of sc along the strap, or use a firmer cotton.
The stitch count is off: Count V-sts, not chains. There should be 9 in every lattice round.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, press out the water in a towel and dry flat over a form. Avoid hot dryers, which can shrink cotton cord.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is simple. 36 sts at 12 sc per 4 in (10.2 cm) gives 12 in (30.5 cm) around, or 6 in (15.2 cm) flat. The bottom band adds 2 in (5.1 cm), 20 lattice rounds add 15 in (38.1 cm) and the top band adds 2 in (5.1 cm), for 19 in (48.3 cm) in total. Hit each checkpoint and the finished holder will match. Make one in teal, a second in dusty rose, and keep your kitchen bags tidy.
Happy crocheting!