This hanging organizer keeps six spare toilet rolls tidy and in easy reach. It has six round baskets, each with peach fan lace and a cream scalloped rim. The baskets hang in three columns of two from a wooden rod or towel bar.
The palette is soft and warm: peach cotton for the lacy body and cream for the rims and hanging straps. The rows of fan “spokes” look a bit like seashells, and the cream shell edge adds a vintage touch that suits a bathroom.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. Each finished basket measures 5 in (12.7 cm) across and 4 in (10.2 cm) tall. The whole hanging set is about 17 in (43.2 cm) wide and 13 in (33.0 cm) tall, measured from the top of the strap loops.
Each basket starts with a flat double crochet base. A back-loop round turns the edge up into the wall, then four rounds of staggered fans build the body. Four cream rounds level, firm and scallop the rim. Last, three long cream straps are sewn to the back of each pair of baskets and looped over the rod.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished basket size: 5 in (12.7 cm) diameter × 4 in (10.2 cm) tall
- Finished set size: about 17 in (43.2 cm) wide × 13 in (33.0 cm) tall
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
- Hook: 5 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 9 (6 baskets + 3 straps)
- Layout: 3 columns × 2 rows
- Piece size before rim: 5 in (12.7 cm) diameter × 2.75 in (7.0 cm) tall
- Rim (border) depth: 1.25 in (3.2 cm)
- Strap size: 1.3 in (3.3 cm) wide × 16 in (40.6 cm) long
Materials
Use a smooth, firm 100% cotton or cotton blend in worsted weight. Cotton holds the basket shape, shows the lace clearly and stands up to bathroom humidity. Don’t use soft acrylic, because the walls will slump.
- Peach: 200 g / about 380 m (416 yd), for the bases and fan walls
- Cream: 100 g / about 190 m (208 yd), for the rims and straps
Quantities are based on 50 g balls of about 95 m (104 yd) and include a margin of about 25%.
Tools:
– 5 mm (H-8) crochet hook
– Tapestry needle
– Stitch markers
– Rust-proof pins and a blocking surface
– Six toilet rolls or a 4.5 in (11.4 cm) jar for blocking
– A wooden dowel or towel bar, 20–24 in (50.8–61.0 cm) long and up to 0.75 in (1.9 cm) thick
– Tape measure and scissors
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet
- BLO – back loop only
- sp(s) – space(s)
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rep – repeat
Special stitch – Fan: [dc, ch 1] 6 times, then dc, all in the same stitch. This makes 7 dc and 6 ch-1 sps. The 4th dc is the center dc.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 12 dc and 7 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) in dc worked flat.
Finish one complete basket before you make the rest. Check these measurements as you go:
- After Round 2: base is about 2.25 in (5.7 cm) across.
- After Round 4: base is 5 in (12.7 cm) across. This is the key checkpoint.
- After Round 9: peach wall is 2.75 in (7.0 cm) tall from the base fold.
- After Round 13: basket is 4 in (10.2 cm) tall, and a toilet roll slides in with a little ease.
If the base is too big (over 5.25 in / 13.3 cm), go down half a hook size. If it’s too small (under 4.75 in / 12.1 cm), go up half a hook size. A standard roll is about 4.25 in (10.8 cm) across, so don’t let the base get any smaller than that.
Basket (Make 6)
Base
With peach:
Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), 11 dc in the ring, then join with a sl st to the top of the ch-3. (12 dc)
Round 2: Ch 3, dc in the same st, 2 dc in each st around, join. (24 dc)
Round 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in next st, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st; rep from * around, join. (36 dc)*
Round 4: Ch 3, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from * around, join. (48 dc)*
Check the base now: it should measure 5 in (12.7 cm) across and lie flat.
Turning Round
Round 5: Ch 1, sc BLO in each st around, join to the first sc. (48 sc)
The unused front loops form a crisp fold, so the wall rises straight up from the base.
Fan Lace Walls
Round 6 (Fan Round A): Ch 1, sc in the first st, sk 3 sts, Fan in next st, sk 3 sts, sc in next st; rep from * around. End the last repeat with sk 3 sts, then join to the first sc. (6 Fans + 6 sc)*
Check: each repeat uses 8 sts, and 6 × 8 = 48.
Round 7 (Fan Round B, offset): This round starts with a split fan. Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1) and work [dc, ch 1] 2 times in the same sc. Then work 1 dc in the same sc (4 dc of the first fan made). Sc in the center dc of the next Fan, then Fan in the next sc; rep from * 4 more times. Sc in the center dc of the last Fan. To finish the split fan, work [dc, ch 1] 3 times in the first sc, then join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4. (6 Fans + 6 sc)*
The split fan comes out as a complete Fan with 7 dc and 6 ch-1 sps. The join lands on its center dc. The new fans sit above the valleys of Round 6, which gives the staggered seashell effect.
Round 8 (Fan Round A): Ch 1, sc in the same st as the join (center dc). Fan in the next sc, sc in the center dc of the next Fan; rep from * around, leaving out the final sc, then join to the first sc. (6 Fans + 6 sc)*
Round 9 (Fan Round B): Repeat Round 7. On the final join, pull the cream yarn through the loop to change color, then fasten off the peach. (6 Fans + 6 sc)
The peach wall now measures 2.75 in (7.0 cm) tall.
Rim (Border)
Rim gauge: same as the main gauge. Each cream round keeps the 48-stitch count until the shell round, so the rim fits the wall without ruffling or pulling in.
With cream:
Round 10 (leveling conversion round): Ch 1, sc in the same st (center dc). [Sc in next ch-1 sp] 3 times, tr in next sc, [sc in next ch-1 sp] 3 times. *Sc in the center dc of the next Fan, [sc in next ch-1 sp] 3 times, tr in next sc, [sc in next ch-1 sp] 3 times; rep from * 4 more times. Join to the first sc.
Count per repeat: 7 sc + 1 tr = 8 sts. Round total: 42 sc + 6 tr = 48 sts. The tall tr fills each valley between fans, so the top edge comes out level.
Round 11: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (48 sc)
Round 12 (shell round): Ch 1, sc in the first st, sk 1 st, 5 dc in next st, sk 1 st, sc in next st; rep from * around. End with sk 1 st and join to the first sc. (12 shells + 12 sc)*
Round 13 (scallop edge, conversion round): Ch 1, *sl st in the sc, sc in next 2 dc, 3 sc in the center dc, sc in next 2 dc; rep from * around, then join.
Count: (72 sts worked 1-per-existing-stitch) + (24 extra sts, 2 per shell) = 96 sts. That’s 12 sl st + 84 sc. Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Why the math works: 48 is divisible by 8, which gives 6 fans, and by 4, which gives 12 shells. That puts exactly two cream shells above each peach fan, so the rim pattern lines up all the way around. The extra stitches in the edge round only sit at the shell tips, so the scallops round out without flaring the rim.
The basket now measures 4 in (10.2 cm) tall.
Strap (Make 3)
With cream:
Ch 6.
Row 1: Dc in the 4th ch from the hook and in each of the next 2 ch. (4 dc; the skipped ch counts as the first dc)
Rows 2–28: Ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, dc in each of the next 3 sts. (4 dc)
Fasten off and leave a 24 in (61.0 cm) tail for sewing. The strap measures 1.3 in (3.3 cm) wide × 16 in (40.6 cm) long. At 7 rows per 4 in, 28 rows = 16 in.
Strap zones (mark them with stitch markers):
– Rows 1–7: lower basket, 4 in (10.2 cm)
– Rows 8–11: gap between baskets, about 2.25 in (5.7 cm)
– Rows 12–18: upper basket, 4 in (10.2 cm)
– Rows 19–21: exposed strap above the basket, about 1.75 in (4.4 cm)
– Rows 22–25: wrap around the rod, about 2.25 in (5.7 cm)
– Rows 26–28: tail, about 1.75 in (4.4 cm)
Check: 7 + 4 + 7 + 3 + 4 + 3 = 28 rows.
Make All Pieces
- Baskets: 6, each with peach Rounds 1–9 and cream Rounds 10–13
- Straps: 3, all cream
Layout (C = column, U = upper basket, L = lower basket):
[ rod ==================================== ]
C1-U C2-U C3-U
C1-L C2-L C3-L
Leave 1 in (2.5 cm) between the columns. The width is 5 + 1 + 5 + 1 + 5 = 17 in (43.2 cm).
Joining
Method: Whipstitch each strap to the back wall of two baskets, using the strap tail or a separate length of cream yarn.
- Choose the back of each basket. Line up the seam of the rounds (the join column) with the center of the strap so that the join is hidden.
- Lower basket: Place Row 1 at the base fold, which is Round 5, and Row 7 at the top of the scallop edge, which is Round 13. Sew both long edges of the strap to the wall. Work one whipstitch per dc post on the strap edge, catching one wall stitch or fan spoke each time. That makes 7 rows × 2 stitches = about 14 whipstitches per edge.
- Upper basket: Leave Rows 8–11 free as the gap. Sew Rows 12–18 to the upper basket the same way, from base fold to scallop edge.
- Loop: Slide the rod through. Fold Rows 22–25 over the rod, then lay Rows 26–28 flat against the back of Rows 19–21 and sew around all four edges.
Tension: Keep the whipstitches snug but not tight. If you pull too hard, the lace puckers. Through the open fan rounds, take each stitch into a solid dc post rather than a ch-1 space so the seam holds the weight of the rolls.
Size checkpoint: Each column hangs about 12 in (30.5 cm) below the rod: 1.75 + 4 + 2.25 + 4 = 12 in. Add the loop above the rod and the total is about 13 in (33.0 cm). For a thicker bar, add 2 rows per extra 1.1 in (2.8 cm) needed in the wrap zone.
Final Blocking
- Wash the baskets and straps in cool water, or spray them until they are evenly damp.
- Roll them gently in a towel to press out the excess water.
- Slip each basket over a toilet roll or a jar wrapped in plastic. A 4.5 in (11.4 cm) form gives a good fit.
- Pin each of the 12 scallops into an even curve and open up the fan spokes with your fingers.
- Pin the straps flat to 1.3 in × 16 in (3.3 × 40.6 cm).
- Let everything dry completely, about 24 hours, before you sew.
For extra firmness, spray the walls lightly with fabric stiffener before drying.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Every base measures 5 in (12.7 cm) and lies flat.
- Each basket has 6 fans per round, and the rows are clearly staggered.
- The cream rim has 12 even scallops and a level top.
- All baskets are 4 in (10.2 cm) tall, within 0.25 in (0.6 cm) of each other.
- The straps are 28 rows long, and all the joins are hidden at the back.
- The baskets in each column hang straight, with matching 2.25 in (5.7 cm) gaps.
- All ends are woven in securely.
Troubleshooting
- Base ruffles: Your tension is loose or you added increases. Recount, or go down a hook size.
- Base cups upward: It’s too tight. Go up a hook size for Rounds 1–4.
- Fans lean or drift: Check that each sc in Rounds 7 and 8 lands in the center dc, the 4th of 7.
- Rim waves: Recount Round 10. You need exactly 48 sts, with one tr per valley.
- Rim pulls in: Work Round 11 more loosely, or use a hook half a size larger for the rim only.
- Baskets tilt forward: Sew the strap all the way down to the base fold, not just at the rim.
- Roll is too tight: Add a 5th increase round of 60 dc to the base, and work the fans and rim over 60 sts instead: 60 ÷ 12 = 5 fans of 12 sts each would need a new repeat, so test a sample first.
Care
Hand wash in cool water and lay flat to dry, reshaped over a roll. Don’t tumble dry, because heat can shrink the cotton and distort the lace.
Final Notes
The measurement chain runs like this. A gauge of 12 dc = 4 in (10.2 cm) gives a 48-stitch base that is 5 in (12.7 cm) across. Four fan rounds raise the wall to 2.75 in (7.0 cm), and the 1.25 in (3.2 cm) cream rim brings each basket to 4 in (10.2 cm). Three 28-row straps then hang the six baskets in a 17 in × 13 in (43.2 × 33.0 cm) set. If each checkpoint matches, the finished organizer will match too.
Happy crocheting!