This hanging holder keeps three spare rolls tidy on the bathroom wall. It is a stack of three round, open-top baskets joined by two side straps. A tapered tab at the top loops over a wooden ring, so the whole piece hangs from a single hook.
The baskets are worked in soft lavender cotton. Their walls use offset V-stitches, which form a lattice of open diamonds that lets the white rolls show through. Each basket is finished with a cream rim of small shells, so the holder reads as fresh, light, and a little bit cottage-style.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder measures 18.6 in (47.2 cm) long from the bottom of the lowest basket to the top of the ring loop. Each basket is 5 in (12.7 cm) across and 3.7 in (9.4 cm) tall, which suits standard rolls about 4.25 in (10.8 cm) wide. The rolls sit slightly taller than the baskets, which makes them easy to grab.
Construction is simple. You make three identical baskets (a flat round base, then lattice walls), two long straps, and one hanging tab. Then you sew everything together and add the cream rim to each basket as a border.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 5 in (12.7 cm) wide x 18.6 in (47.2 cm) long, ring not included
- Skill level: Intermediate (easy repeats, careful sewing)
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
- Hook: 5.0 mm (US H-8)
- Number of pieces: 6 (3 baskets, 2 straps, 1 hanging tab)
- Layout: 3 baskets stacked vertically in 1 column
- Piece size (one basket): 5 in (12.7 cm) diameter x 3.7 in (9.4 cm) tall
- Size before border: each basket 3.0 in (7.6 cm) tall
- Border depth: 0.7 in (1.8 cm), cream scallop rim
Materials
Choose a smooth, firm worsted cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds its shape better than acrylic, so the baskets stay round under the weight of a roll. A tightly plied yarn also shows the V-stitch lattice more clearly than a fuzzy one. Avoid very splitty yarns, because you will be sewing through stitches many times.
- Lavender (main color): 150 g, about 255 m (279 yd)
- Cream (rim): 25 g, about 43 m (47 yd)
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (US H-8) crochet hook
- 4.5 mm and 5.5 mm hooks for gauge adjustments (optional)
- 1 wooden ring, 3 in (7.6 cm) diameter
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- 6 locking stitch markers
- Measuring tape
- Rust-proof pins for blocking
Quantities include a margin of roughly 15% for gauge swatches and sewing tails.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- BLO – back loop only
- sk – skip
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sp – space
- beg – beginning
- rep – repeat
Special stitch – V-stitch (V-st): (dc, ch 1, dc) in the same stitch or space.
Gap: the space between two neighboring V-sts, between the last dc of one V and the first dc of the next.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Make one complete basket first. It acts as your gauge swatch and tells you whether a roll will fit before you commit to the other pieces.
- Basic gauge: 14 dc = 4 in (10.2 cm); 16 sc x 20 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm)
- Checkpoint 1: After Round 5, the base lies flat and measures 5 in (12.7 cm) across.
- Checkpoint 2: The five V-st rounds (Rounds 7–11) measure 2.6 in (6.6 cm) tall.
- Checkpoint 3: After Round 12, the wall measures 3.0 in (7.6 cm) from the base edge.
- Checkpoint 4: A strap 5 sc wide measures 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across, and 15 rows measure 3.0 in (7.6 cm).
If the base is too big, or it ruffles, go down to a 4.5 mm hook. If it is too small, or it cups before Round 6, go up to a 5.5 mm hook. Test the base with a roll: it should fit inside with a little room to spare.
Checkpoint 4 matters most for the straps. Each 15-row zone must match the 3.0 in (7.6 cm) wall. If your rows come out shorter, add the same number of rows to every zone. Don’t stretch the strap while sewing to make up the difference.
Basket (Make 3)
With lavender, work in joined rounds. Do not turn.
Base
Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as dc), work 11 dc in ring. Join with sl st to top of beg ch-3. (12 dc)
Round 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join. (24 dc)
Round 3: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next st, *2 dc in next st, dc in next st; rep from * around. Join. (36 dc)
Round 4: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 2 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts; rep from * around. Join. (48 dc)
Round 5: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 3 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts; rep from * around. Join. (60 dc)
Check the base against Checkpoint 1.
Walls
Round 6: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around. Join to first sc. (60 sc) The free front loops form a crisp fold, so the wall stands upright.
Round 7: Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), dc in same st, *sk 2 sts, V-st in next st; rep from * 18 more times, sk last 2 sts. Join with sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch-4. (20 V-sts)
Round 8: Sl st in ch-1 sp, sl st in next dc, sl st in next gap. Ch 4, dc in same gap, V-st in each remaining gap around. Join to 3rd ch of beg ch-4. (20 V-sts)
Each V now sits above a gap from the round below. The arms of neighboring Vs meet over the earlier Vs, and that is what creates the diamond openings.
Rounds 9–11: Rep Round 8. (20 V-sts in each round)
Check against Checkpoint 2.
Round 12: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next dc, *sc in next dc, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next dc; rep from * 18 more times. Join to first sc. (40 dc + 20 ch-1 sps worked 1 sc each = 60 sc, + 0 extra)
Fasten off and weave in ends. Check against Checkpoint 3. Leave the rim for later.
Strap (Make 2)
With lavender, ch 6.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (5 sc)
Rows 2–65: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (5 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a 20 in (50.8 cm) tail. Each strap measures 1.25 in (3.2 cm) x 13.0 in (33.0 cm).
Place markers on each strap to divide it into zones:
- Rows 1–15: bottom basket, 3.0 in (7.6 cm)
- Rows 16–25: gap, 2.0 in (5.1 cm)
- Rows 26–40: middle basket, 3.0 in (7.6 cm)
- Rows 41–50: gap, 2.0 in (5.1 cm)
- Rows 51–65: top basket, 3.0 in (7.6 cm)
Each gap zone includes the 0.7 in (1.8 cm) rim of the basket below it, so the visible space between baskets is 1.3 in (3.3 cm).
Hanging Tab (Make 1)
With lavender, ch 17.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (16 sc)
Rows 2–3: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (16 sc)
Row 4: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (14 sc)
Rows 5–6: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (14 sc)
Rows 7–15: Rep Rows 4–6 three times. (12 sc after Row 7, 10 sc after Row 10, 8 sc after Row 13)
Row 16: Rep Row 4. (6 sc)
The triangle is now 3.2 in (8.1 cm) tall.
Rows 17–36: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (6 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a 16 in (40.6 cm) tail. The loop strip is 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide and 4.0 in (10.2 cm) long.
Make All Pieces
- Baskets: 3, lavender (rims added later in cream)
- Straps: 2, lavender
- Hanging tab: 1, lavender
Layout from top to bottom:
[ ring ]
[ tab ]
strap | TOP BASKET | strap
strap | gap | strap
strap | MIDDLE BASKET | strap
strap | gap | strap
strap | BOTTOM BASKET | strap
Joining
Mark the baskets. On each basket, count the 60 sc of Round 12. Place markers at sts 13–17 (left side) and sts 44–48 (right side). These positions mirror each other around the back center, which falls between sts 30 and 31. On the top basket, also mark sts 23–38 at the back for the tab.
Sew the straps. Use the strap tail and a whipstitch. Lay the strap on the outside of the wall, centered over the 5 marked sts. Sew both long edges of the strap to the wall.
Match the strap rows to the wall rounds like this:
- Row 1 of each zone to Round 6
- The next 13 rows across Rounds 7–11, in groups of 3, 2, 3, 2, 3 (one group per V-st round)
- The last row of each zone to Round 12
Start with strap Rows 1–15 on the bottom basket, then Rows 26–40 on the middle basket and Rows 51–65 on the top basket. Do the left strap first, then the right. Leave the gap rows (16–25 and 41–50) free. Before you sew the second strap, lay the piece flat and check that all three baskets face the same way.
Tension: Pull each stitch just snug. If you pull too hard, the wall puckers. If you sew too loosely, the basket sags forward when it holds a roll.
Attach the tab. Lay Row 1 of the tab against the inside of the top basket’s back wall. Whipstitch its 16 sts one-to-one to marked sts 23–38, sewing through the back bar of each Round 12 st. Row 1 now sits level with the top of Round 12, and the top loops stay free for the rim.
Attach the ring. Pass Rows 29–36 of the tab through the ring and fold them to the back. Whipstitch Row 36 to Row 28 across all 6 sts. The fold is 1.6 in (4.1 cm), so 2.4 in (6.1 cm) of loop strip shows above the triangle.
Size checkpoint: Hang the holder. The distance from the base of the bottom basket to the base of the top basket is 10.0 in (25.4 cm). The full length is 18.6 in (47.2 cm).
Border: Cream Scallop Rim
Work the rim on each basket after joining. The straps stop at Round 12, so the rim runs freely above them.
Border gauge: One rim repeat (4 sts) = about 1.05 in (2.7 cm) around the top edge. The finished rim is 0.7 in (1.8 cm) deep.
Each basket is 1 piece, so the starting count is 1 x 60 = 60 sts.
Round 13: Join cream with a sl st in st 1 of Round 12. Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join to first sc. (60 sc + 0 extra = 60 sc)
Round 14: Ch 1, sc in first st, *sk 1 st, 3 dc in next st, sk 1 st, sc in next st; rep from * 13 more times, sk 1 st, 3 dc in next st, sk last st. Join to first sc. (15 sc + 45 dc = 60 sts, 15 scallops)
Fasten off and weave in the ends on the inside of the basket.
Why the math works: Each scallop repeat uses exactly 4 sts of Round 13 (1 sc, 1 skipped, 1 shell st, 1 skipped). Since 60 divided by 4 is 15, the last repeat ends exactly at the join. The rim also stays at 60 sts, so it keeps the same 5 in (12.7 cm) opening as the wall and won’t flare or pull in.
Final Blocking
- Fill a basin with cool water and soak the holder for 10 minutes.
- Press out water gently. Do not wring.
- Roll it in a towel to remove more water.
- Slide a roll, or a jar about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide, into each basket.
- Pin the shell rims upright so each scallop opens evenly.
- Lay the holder flat and straighten the straps, checking the 2.0 in (5.1 cm) gap zones.
- Let it dry completely, about 24 hours, then remove the forms.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each base has 60 dc and lies flat at 5 in (12.7 cm).
- Each wall has 20 V-sts per round with no extra or missing Vs.
- Round 12 and Round 13 each hold 60 sts.
- Each rim has 15 even scallops.
- Both straps have 65 rows and line up at the same heights.
- The tab is centered at the back of the top basket.
- The ring fold is secure across all 6 sts.
- All ends are woven in and hidden.
Troubleshooting
- Base ruffles: Too many stitches for your tension. Use a smaller hook.
- Base cups early: Your stitches are too tight. Use a larger hook.
- Lattice looks like columns, not diamonds: You worked a V into a ch-1 sp instead of a gap. Always place V-sts in the gaps.
- Rim waves: Your 3-dc shells are too loose. Work the rim with a 4.5 mm hook.
- Holder twists: One strap is sewn in the wrong place. Recount the marked sts.
- Baskets tilt forward: The tab is sewn too low. Move it up to Round 12.
- Roll won’t fit: The base is too small. Remake the basket with a larger hook.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap and dry flat. Reshape the baskets around a roll while damp.
Final Notes
The measurements build on each other. A 60-st base at 5 in (12.7 cm) sets the opening. Twenty V-sts per round keep that width up the 3.0 in (7.6 cm) wall. The straps’ 65 rows give 3.0 in (7.6 cm) per basket and 2.0 in (5.1 cm) per gap. The 0.7 in (1.8 cm) cream rim finishes each basket at 3.7 in (9.4 cm). Add the 3.2 in (8.1 cm) triangle and 2.4 in (6.1 cm) loop, and the holder hangs 18.6 in (47.2 cm) long.
Happy crocheting!