This two-tier hanging organizer has two oval baskets with a soft band of leaf lace. Each basket has a solid double crochet base and bottom band, then a honeycomb mesh with pointed leaves set into it, and a firm textured rim. A wooden dowel runs along the back edge of each basket. Two crocheted straps connect both dowels to one wall hook.
The sample uses a single sage green cotton. One color keeps the look calm and lets the leaves and open mesh show clearly. It works well in a bathroom, a laundry corner or a nursery.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. Each basket base measures 11.5 in x 5 in (29.2 cm x 12.7 cm). The upper basket is 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall and the lower basket is 5.5 in (14.0 cm) tall. When hung, the organizer measures about 19 in (48.3 cm) from the hook to the bottom.
Construction is simple. You crochet each basket in the round, starting with an oval base. A back-loop round turns up the wall, and then you add the solid band, the lace band and the rim. Last, you make two straps, slide in the dowels and sew the straps around the dowel ends.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: each base 11.5 in x 5 in (29.2 cm x 12.7 cm); upper basket 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall, lower basket 5.5 in (14.0 cm) tall; hung height about 19 in (48.3 cm)
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: worsted (#4) cotton
- Hook: 5.0 mm (US H-8)
- Number of pieces: 5 (2 baskets, 2 straps, 1 hanging tab), plus 2 dowels
- Layout: two baskets stacked vertically, 6 in (15.2 cm) between dowels
- Piece size: base 11.5 in x 5 in (29.2 cm x 12.7 cm); wall perimeter about 31 in (78.7 cm)
- Size before rim: upper 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall, lower 4.75 in (12.1 cm) tall
- Rim depth: 0.75 in (1.9 cm)
Materials
Choose a firm, smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds the basket shape and copes well with bathroom humidity. Avoid acrylic, which stretches under the weight of full bottles.
- Sage green: 300 g, about 465 m (about 155 m per 100 g)
These amounts include a margin of about 20%. The sample used about 245 g: 100 g for the upper basket, 115 g for the lower basket and 30 g for the straps and tab.
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (US H-8) crochet hook
- 2 wooden dowels, 0.75 in (1.9 cm) thick and 14 in (35.6 cm) long
- Fine sandpaper for the dowel ends
- 13 stitch markers
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors and a flexible tape measure
- Wall hook rated for at least 10 lb
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- BLO – back loop only
- sk – skip
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rep – repeat
Special stitches:
- Small shell: (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the stated sp.
- Large shell: (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the stated sp.
- dc5tog / dc6tog: [yarn over, insert hook in next st, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops] 5 or 6 times, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 14 dc and 8 dc rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm), worked in the round.
Make the upper basket first and use it as your test piece. Check it at each stage:
- After base Rnd 1: about 7.5 in x 1 in (19.1 cm x 2.5 cm)
- After base Rnd 3: about 9.5 in x 3 in (24.1 cm x 7.6 cm)
- After base Rnd 5: 11.5 in x 5 in (29.2 cm x 12.7 cm), lying flat
- After the solid band: upper 1.25 in (3.2 cm) tall, lower 2.25 in (5.7 cm) tall
- Before the rim: upper 3.75 in (9.5 cm), lower 4.75 in (12.1 cm)
If your base is too big or ruffles, go down to a 4.5 mm hook. If it is too small or cups, go up to a 5.5 mm hook. Get your gauge right on the base. The wall stitch count is set by the lace repeat, so the wall can’t make up for a gauge error.
Oval Base (Make 2)
The chain at the start of a round does not count as a stitch. Join each round with a sl st to the first st.
Rnd 1: Ch 27. Working in back bumps, 3 dc in 3rd ch from hook, dc in next 23 ch, 6 dc in last ch. Rotate and work along the other side of the foundation: dc in next 23 ch, 3 dc in the same ch as the first 3 dc. Join. (58 dc)
Rnd 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each of next 3 sts, dc in next 23 sts, 2 dc in each of next 6 sts, dc in next 23 sts, 2 dc in each of last 3 sts. Join. (70 dc)
Rnd 3: Ch 2, [dc in next st, 2 dc in next st] 3 times, dc in next 23 sts, [dc in next st, 2 dc in next st] 6 times, dc in next 23 sts, [dc in next st, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. Join. (82 dc)
Rnd 4: Ch 2, [dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st] 3 times, dc in next 23 sts, [dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st] 6 times, dc in next 23 sts, [dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. Join. (94 dc)
Rnd 5: Ch 2, [dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st] 3 times, dc in next 23 sts, [dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st] 6 times, dc in next 23 sts, [dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. Join. (106 dc)
Each round adds 12 sts, 6 at each curved end. A flat dc circle increases at the same rate, so the base lies flat.
Basket Walls
Rnd 6 (turning round): Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around, but work 2 sc in BLO of the 27th st and of the 80th st. Join. (106 sc + 2 added = 108 sc)
The unworked front loops make a crisp fold line, so the wall stands straight up. The 2 extra sts sit at the center of each long side and bring the count to a multiple of 9.
Solid band: Ch 2, dc in each st around. Join. (108 dc) Work this round 2 times for the upper basket and 4 times for the lower basket.
Place a marker every 9 sts to mark the 12 repeats.
Leaf Lace Band
Each of the 12 repeats uses 9 sts and makes one leaf, with honeycomb mesh between the leaves.
Lace Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in next st, ch 3, sk 3 sts, dc in next st, ch 1, dc in next st, ch 3, sk 3 sts; rep from * 11 more times. Join to first sc. (12 leaf bases, 12 sc, 24 ch-3 loops)*
Each repeat uses exactly 9 sts: 1 sc + 3 skipped + 2 dc + 3 skipped.
Lace Rnd 2: Sl st into next ch-3 loop, then into next dc and ch-1 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc), (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same ch-1 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 loop, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 loop, ch 3, small shell in next ch-1 sp; rep from * 11 more times, ending last rep at . Join to top of ch-3. (12 small shells, 24 sc, 36 ch-3 loops)*
Lace Rnd 3: Sl st in next dc and into ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc), (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same sp, ch 4, sk next ch-3 loop, sc in next (middle) ch-3 loop, ch 4, sk next ch-3 loop, large shell in next ch-2 sp; rep from * 11 more times, ending last rep at . Join to top of ch-3. (12 large shells, 12 sc, 24 ch-4 loops)*
Skipping the outer loops opens the honeycomb cells beside each leaf. The chain spaces stacked in the middle of each leaf form its center vein.
Lace Rnd 4: Ch 2, dc5tog over the next 5 dc of the shell, skipping the ch-2 sp. The ch 2 plus the dc5tog counts as the first dc6tog. Ch 5, sc in next sc, ch 5, dc6tog over the 6 dc of the next large shell, skipping its ch-2 sp; rep from * 11 more times, ending last rep at . Join to top of first cluster. (12 leaf tips, 12 sc, 24 ch-5 loops)*
The dc6tog pulls each leaf into a point that sits just below the rim.
Transition Rnd: Ch 1, sc in top of leaf tip, 4 sc in next ch-5 loop, sk sc, 4 sc in next ch-5 loop; rep from * 11 more times. Join. (12 x 9 = 108 sc)*
Checkpoint: Measured from the fold, the upper basket is now 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall and the lower basket is 4.75 in (12.1 cm). Each leaf sits centered between two honeycomb columns.
Make All Pieces
- Upper basket (sage): 1 base + wall with 2 solid dc rounds
- Lower basket (sage): 1 base + wall with 4 solid dc rounds
- Straps (sage): 2
- Hanging tab (sage): 1
Strap (make 2): Ch 75. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (74 sc) Do not turn. Ch 1, sl st in each ch along the other side of the foundation. (74 sl st) Fasten off. Each strap is about 21 in (53.3 cm) long and 0.5 in (1.3 cm) wide. The sl st edge gives the strap a firm, corded look and keeps it from stretching.
Hanging tab: Ch 13. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (12 sc) Fasten off, leaving a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail. The tab is about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) long.
Layout (front view):
[ tab on hook ]
/ \
strap strap
/ \
(o)=[ UPPER BASKET 4.5 in ]=(o) <- dowel 1
| |
strap 6 in between dowels strap
| |
(o)=[ LOWER BASKET 5.5 in ]=(o) <- dowel 2
Joining
Finish the rim on each basket (see Border) before you insert the dowels. Sand the dowel ends smooth. Each dowel lies along the inside of a basket’s back wall at the Transition Round.
Insert the dowels: Fold the basket flat to find the center of each narrow end. The back half is the 54 sts between those two points. At one narrow end, push the dowel from the outside to the inside through a gap in the Transition Round. Run it along the inside of the back wall, then push it out through the matching gap at the other narrow end. About 1.25 in (3.2 cm) of dowel should stick out on each side.
Tack the dowel: Using yarn and a needle, whipstitch over the dowel and into the Transition Round at each leaf tip on the back half. That makes 6 tacks. Keep each tack snug but not tight, so the rim stays level.
Attach the straps: Fold the bottom 1.5 in (3.8 cm) of a strap around one end of the lower dowel. Sew the strap to itself through both layers. Measure 6 in (15.2 cm) up the strap from the lower dowel. At that point, wrap the strap once around the matching end of the upper dowel and sew through all layers. Repeat on the other side. Both vertical sections must be exactly the same length, or the lower basket will hang crooked.
Join at the top: Lay the free ends of both straps together so they overlap by 1 in (2.5 cm). Sew through both layers. Fold the hanging tab into a loop and sew both ends to the back of the overlap.
Tension advice: Sew with small stitches that catch the sl st edge on both layers. Pull until the layers meet, then stop.
Size checkpoint: Hang the organizer empty. The dowels should be level and 6 in (15.2 cm) apart, and the total drop should be about 19 in (48.3 cm).
Border (Rim)
Work the rim on each basket on its own 108 sts, before you insert the dowel.
Rim gauge: 14 sts = 4 in (10.2 cm); 3 rim rounds = 0.75 in (1.9 cm).
Rim Rnd 1: Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join. (108 hdc: 54 front, 54 back)
Rim Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (108 sc: 54 front, 54 back)
Rim Rnd 3: Sl st loosely in BLO of each st around. Join. (108 sl st: 54 front, 54 back) Fasten off.
Why the math works: The wall holds 12 lace repeats of 9 sts each, and 12 x 9 = 108. The front and back halves, measured between the centers of the narrow ends, each hold 6 repeats, so each half has 6 x 9 = 54 sts. The rim works 1 st in each st with no increases. That way the top edge matches the 31 in (78.7 cm) wall and stays straight.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends along the solid dc rounds or the rim, where they won’t show in the lace.
- Soak each basket in cool water for 10 minutes. Squeeze out the water gently; don’t wring.
- Roll each basket in a towel and press to remove extra water.
- Fill each basket with a towel-wrapped box or container about 11.5 in x 5 in (29.2 cm x 12.7 cm).
- Shape the leaves with your fingers. Point the tips upward and open the honeycomb cells.
- Pin the rim straight if needed. Let the baskets dry fully for 24 to 48 hours.
- Steam-block the straps flat and let them cool before sewing.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Both bases lie flat and measure 11.5 in x 5 in (29.2 cm x 12.7 cm).
- Each wall has 108 sts and 12 complete leaves.
- The upper basket is 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall and the lower basket is 5.5 in (14.0 cm) tall.
- The rim is level all the way around.
- Each dowel sticks out about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) past each narrow end.
- On both sides, the straps measure 6 in (15.2 cm) between the dowels.
- All ends are woven in, and the sewn joins hold when you tug them firmly.
Troubleshooting
The base ruffles. Your tension is loose. Go down one hook size, and check that each curved end has exactly 6 increases per round.
The base cups upward. Your tension is tight. Go up one hook size and keep your dc stitches tall.
The lace count is off. Count stitches before Lace Rnd 1; you need exactly 108. Use the markers placed every 9 sts.
The leaves lean. Make sure every shell sits in the ch sp directly above the shell or split dc pair below it.
The rim flares. Work Rim Rnd 3 a little tighter, or replace it with a second sc round.
The basket tilts when filled. Recheck that both strap sections are 6 in (15.2 cm), and put heavier items in the center.
Care
Hand wash in cool water, then lay flat to dry with each basket filled to hold its shape. Take out the dowels before washing.
Final Notes
The measurements build on each other in a short chain. A gauge of 14 dc and 8 rounds per 4 in (10.2 cm) gives a base of 11.5 in x 5 in (29.2 cm x 12.7 cm). That base supports 108 wall stitches, which hold 12 leaf repeats of 9 stitches. The rim keeps the same 108 stitches, so the baskets finish at 4.5 in (11.4 cm) and 5.5 in (14.0 cm) tall. Straps of 21 in (53.3 cm) set the dowels 6 in (15.2 cm) apart, for a total drop of about 19 in (48.3 cm).
Happy crocheting!