This two-tier hanging organizer has two matching oval baskets stacked one above the other. Each basket has a solid single crochet base, a short solid band at the bottom of the walls, a wide filet mesh band with open diamond outlines, and a firm corded rim. A wooden dowel runs along the back rim of each basket. One braided-look crocheted cord ties the dowels together and ends in a hanging loop.
It uses one color, a deep emerald green, and the natural wood dowels add warm contrast. The mesh lets light through and shows what is inside. The solid base and rim keep each basket in shape when it holds bottles, brushes, or toilet paper rolls.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. Each basket measures about 11 in (27.9 cm) long, 4 in (10.2 cm) deep, and 5.5 in (14.0 cm) tall. The assembled organizer is about 14 in (35.6 cm) wide and about 24 in (61.0 cm) tall, from the top of the hanging loop to the bottom of the lower basket.
Construction is simple:
- Crochet an oval base in joined rounds.
- Turn the walls up with a back-loop round.
- Work the solid band, the filet diamond band, and the rim border.
- Whipstitch the back rim to a dowel.
Make two baskets, then knot the cord around the dowel ends.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size (assembled): about 14 in (35.6 cm) wide x 24 in (61.0 cm) tall
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted weight (#4), 100% cotton
- Hook: 4.5 mm (US 7)
- Number of pieces: 2 baskets, 1 cord, 2 wooden dowels
- Layout: 1 column x 2 tiers, with the baskets stacked vertically
- Piece size (one basket): 11 in (27.9 cm) long x 4 in (10.2 cm) deep x 5.5 in (14.0 cm) tall
- Size before border: walls 4.6 in (11.7 cm) tall
- Border depth: 0.9 in (2.3 cm), 4 rounds
Materials
Choose a smooth, tightly plied cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds the basket’s shape, handles bathroom humidity, and shows the mesh clearly. Avoid fuzzy or very soft acrylics, which make the walls slump.
- Emerald Green: 180 g, about 340 m
These quantities include a margin of about 20% for swatching, whipstitching, and differences between brands. Each basket uses about 65 g and the cord uses about 15 g.
Tools:
- 4.5 mm (US 7) crochet hook
- 2 wooden dowels, each 14 in (35.6 cm) long and 0.5 in (1.3 cm) thick
- 4 locking stitch markers
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Tape measure
- Wall hook rated for the weight you plan to store
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- BLO – back loop only
- rev sc – reverse single crochet
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sp – space
- rnd(s) – round(s)
- rep – repeat
Special stitches
- Reverse single crochet (rev sc): Work from left to right (right-handed). Insert the hook into the next stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through both loops. This makes a corded, braided-looking edge.
- Open square (O): Dc in next dc, ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp or st.
- Block square (B): Dc in next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp or st.
- Ch-and-sl-st cord: Make a chain, then sl st into the back bump of each chain. This gives a firm, braided-looking cord with little stretch.
Every square, open or block, uses 2 stitches of the round below. A round of 54 squares therefore always equals 108 stitches.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Single crochet: 16 sts and 18 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm).
Filet mesh: 8 squares and 8 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm).
Make one complete basket before you buy the rest of the yarn. That first basket is your gauge test.
Checkpoints:
- After Rnd 9 (base): 11 in (27.9 cm) long x 4 in (10.2 cm) wide, lying flat.
- After Rnd 14 (solid band): walls 1.1 in (2.8 cm) tall, measured from the back-loop ridge.
- After Rnd 21 (mesh): walls 4.6 in (11.7 cm) tall.
- After Rnd 25 (border): walls 5.5 in (14.0 cm) tall, and the top opening measures 27 in (68.6 cm) around.
If the piece is too big: go down 0.5 mm in hook size and restart the base. A loose base makes a floppy basket.
If the piece is too small: go up 0.5 mm. If only the mesh is short, keep the same hook and pull each dc up a little taller.
Basket (Make 2)
Work in joined rounds with the right side facing. The ch 1 at the start of sc rounds does not count as a stitch. Join each round with a sl st to the first stitch.
Oval Base
Ch 29.
Rnd 1: 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 26 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Rotate the work and sc in the free loops of the next 26 ch; join. (58 sts: 3 at each end, 26 on each long side)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in next 26 sts; rep from * once; join. (64 sts)*
Rnd 3: Ch 1, [sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] 3 times, sc in next 26 sts; rep from * once; join. (70 sts)*
Rnd 4: Ch 1, [sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st] 3 times, sc in next 26 sts; rep from * once; join. (76 sts)*
Rnds 5–9: Each round, work one more sc before each increase. In Rnd N: ch 1, *[sc in next (N – 2) sts, 2 sc in next st] 3 times, sc in next 26 sts; rep from * once; join.
- Rnd 5: 82 sts
- Rnd 6: 88 sts
- Rnd 7: 94 sts
- Rnd 8: 100 sts
- Rnd 9: 106 sts (27 at each curved end, 26 on each long side)
Check checkpoint 1. If the ends cup, your tension is too tight. If they ruffle, it is too loose.
Walls: Solid Band
Rnd 10 (turning round): Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around; join. (106 sts) The unused front loops form a crisp ridge, and the walls begin to rise.
Rnds 11–13: Ch 1, sc in each st around; join. (106 sts)
Rnd 14 (conversion round): Ch 1, sc in next 27 sts, sc in next 13 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 12 sts; rep from * once; join. (106 sts worked 1-per-st + 2 increases = 108 sts)*
Each long side and each curved end now has 27 sts. Place a marker in st 82 and in st 108. These mark the second long side, which is the back of the basket.
Check checkpoint 2.
Walls: Filet Diamond Band
The mesh band uses a 6-square repeat worked 9 times around (6 x 9 = 54 squares).
- Start an open first square with ch 4, which counts as dc + ch 1.
- Start a block first square with ch 3, which counts as dc.
- Join each round with a sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning chain.
Rnd 15 (all open): Ch 4, skip next st, dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st; rep from * around; join. (54 open squares = 108 sts)*
Rnds 16–20: Work the repeat below 9 times around, reading each line from right to left.
- Rnd 16: O O B O O O
- Rnd 17: O B O B O O
- Rnd 18: B O O O B O
- Rnd 19: O B O B O O
- Rnd 20: O O B O O O
Begin Rnd 18 with ch 3. Begin all other rounds with ch 4. Each round stays at 54 squares = 108 sts. The block squares outline an open diamond with one open square in the center.
Rnd 21 (all open): Ch 4, skip next ch-1 sp or st, dc in next dc, ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp or st; rep from * around; join. (54 open squares = 108 sts)*
Check checkpoint 3. Move both markers straight up to this round. Then work the Top Rim Border (below) before you join anything.
Make All Pieces
- Basket 1 (upper): Emerald Green, Rnds 1–21 plus Border Rnds 22–25, about 65 g
- Basket 2 (lower): Emerald Green, Rnds 1–21 plus Border Rnds 22–25, about 65 g
- Cord: Emerald Green, about 15 g (see Joining)
- Dowels: 2 wooden dowels, 14 in (35.6 cm)
Layout grid (front view):
[ hanging loop ]
/ \
cord cord
/ \
[ dowel ======================= ]
[ Basket 1 (upper) ]
| |
cord cord
| |
[ dowel ======================= ]
[ Basket 2 (lower) ]
Joining
Attach Each Basket to a Dowel
Center a dowel along the outside of the back rim, just below the top edge. The basket is 11 in (27.9 cm) long, so the dowel extends 1.5 in (3.8 cm) past each end.
Cut 30 in (76.2 cm) of yarn and thread the tapestry needle.
- Start at the first back marker.
- Bring the needle from inside the basket out through the top of the rim stitch.
- Wrap the yarn over the dowel and go back in through the next rim stitch.
- Make one wrap per stitch across all 27 back stitches, ending at the second marker.
- Weave in the ends inside the solid rim.
Tension: make each wrap just snug enough to stop the dowel from rolling. If the rim gathers, the wraps are too tight. The 27 back stitches should stay the same length they were before wrapping.
Cord
Ch 262. Sl st in the back bump of 2nd ch from hook and of each ch across. (261 sl sts) Fasten off. The cord should measure about 58 in (147.3 cm). If yours is shorter, adjust the chain length.
Assemble the Tiers
- Fold the cord in half. Tie an overhand knot to form a 1.5 in (3.8 cm) hanging loop at the fold.
- Measure 10 in (25.4 cm) down each half from the knot. At that point, tie a clove hitch around the upper dowel, between the basket end and the dowel tip.
- Measure 8.5 in (21.6 cm) down from each upper hitch. Tie a clove hitch around the lower dowel in the same position.
- Each side has about 3 in (7.6 cm) of tail left. Wrap it twice around the cord and sew it in securely.
Size checkpoint: Hang the organizer empty and check that:
- Both dowels hang level.
- The gap between the bottom of the upper basket and the lower dowel is about 3 in (7.6 cm).
- The total height is about 24 in (61.0 cm).
To level a dowel, slide its hitch before you tighten it fully.
Top Rim Border
Work this border on each basket after Rnd 21 and before joining.
Border gauge: 16 sc and 18 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm), the same as the base.
Rnd 22: Ch 1, sc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp around; join. (54 dc + 54 sps = 108 sts: 27 on each long side, 27 on each curved end)
Rnds 23–24: Ch 1, sc in each st around; join. (108 sts: 27 per side x 4)
Rnd 25: Ch 1, rev sc in each st around; join and fasten off. (108 sts: 27 per side x 4)
Why the math works: Each filet square uses exactly 2 stitches, so 54 squares convert back to 108 sc with no increases. At 16 sts per 4 in, 108 sts measure 27 in (68.6 cm). That matches the base’s 106 sts plus the 2 sts added in Rnd 14. Rev sc is worked 1-to-1, so the rim neither flares nor pulls in. The border adds 0.9 in (2.3 cm), which brings the walls from 4.6 in (11.7 cm) to 5.5 in (14.0 cm).
Final Blocking
- Lightly mist each basket with water until it is damp.
- Fill it with a rolled towel or a box about 11 in (27.9 cm) x 4 in (10.2 cm).
- Press the base flat and straighten the back wall along the dowel.
- Nudge the diamonds so the block squares line up vertically.
- Let the basket dry completely, at least 12 hours.
- For extra stiffness, spray it with fabric starch before it dries.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each base measures 11 in (27.9 cm) x 4 in (10.2 cm) and lies flat.
- Rnds 14–25 each have 108 sts.
- Every mesh round has 54 squares.
- Each basket has 9 diamonds around.
- The rev sc edge is even, with no skipped stitches.
- Each dowel is centered, with 1.5 in (3.8 cm) of overhang on each side.
- All 27 back stitches are wrapped to the dowel.
- The clove hitches are tight and the dowels hang level.
- All ends are woven in on the inside.
Troubleshooting
Base cups into a bowl: Your tension is tight or you missed increases. Recount Rnds 2–9.
Base ruffles: You have extra increases or your hook is too large.
Diamonds lean to one side: You started a round with the wrong square type. Check whether that round starts with O or B.
A mesh round has 53 or 55 squares: You skipped or doubled a square. Count the dc posts before moving up.
Walls slump: The yarn is too soft or your gauge is loose. Starch the basket or use a smaller hook.
Basket tilts: The hitches are uneven. Remeasure both sides.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap. Reshape the basket, stuff it, and let it dry flat.
Final Notes
Here is the measurement chain:
- Rnd 9 gives an 11 in (27.9 cm) x 4 in (10.2 cm) base with 106 sts.
- Rnd 14 converts to 108 sts, which divide evenly into 54 filet squares and 9 diamond repeats.
- Rnd 22 converts back to 108 sc, and the border brings each basket to 5.5 in (14.0 cm) tall.
- Two 14 in (35.6 cm) dowels and a 58 in (147.3 cm) cord complete the organizer at about 14 in (35.6 cm) x 24 in (61.0 cm).
Check each stage before you move on. Happy crocheting!