This hanging holder stacks three round baskets on a pair of braided cords, so three spare rolls stay off the floor and in easy reach. It hangs from a single hook or peg and takes up almost no wall space.
The palette is soft periwinkle blue with a band of butter-yellow spike flowers and a cream shell-scallop rim. The cords are cream to match the rim, which ties the three tiers together visually. The look is cottage-style and cheerful, but the fabric is dense single crochet, so the baskets hold their shape.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. Each basket is 5.25 in (13.3 cm) across and 3.25 in (8.3 cm) tall including the rim. The assembled holder measures about 21.75 in (55.2 cm) from the bottom of the lowest basket to the top of the cord triangle, plus a small hanging loop.
Construction is simple. You crochet a flat circular base, turn up the wall with a back-loop round, work the flower band, and finish with a cream scallop rim. Make three baskets, make two Romanian cords, then sew the cords up opposite sides of the stacked baskets and join them at the top.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: about 21.75 in (55.2 cm) tall, plus hanging loop
- Skill level: Intermediate (spike clusters, color changes)
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 4.5 mm (US 7)
- Number of pieces: 5 (3 baskets, 2 cords)
- Layout: 3 baskets stacked vertically, 1 column
- Piece size: 5.25 in (13.3 cm) diameter x 3.25 in (8.3 cm) tall
- Size before border: 5.25 in (13.3 cm) diameter x 2.75 in (7.0 cm) tall
- Border depth: 0.5 in (1.3 cm) cream scallop rim
Materials
Choose a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton gives firm walls, handles bathroom humidity and shows the spike stitches clearly. Acrylic works too, but the baskets will be softer.
- Color A, periwinkle: 160 g, about 290 m
- Color B, butter yellow: 45 g, about 80 m
- Color C, cream: 60 g, about 110 m
These amounts include a margin of roughly 10–15% to allow for gauge differences.
Tools:
- 4.5 mm (US 7) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- 4 locking stitch markers
- Measuring tape
- Pins or clips
- Spray bottle or steam iron
- One toilet roll for shaping
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- inc – 2 sc in the same stitch
- BLO – back loop only
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rnd(s) – round(s)
Special stitches:
Spike Star (SpSt): worked in Rnd 17 over 1 stitch.
1. Insert the hook front to back into Rnd 15, one stitch to the right of the next stitch. Yo and pull up a long loop to the height of the current round (2 loops on hook).
2. Insert into Rnd 14 directly below the next stitch and pull up a long loop (3 loops).
3. Insert into Rnd 15 one stitch to the left of the next stitch and pull up a long loop (4 loops).
4. Insert into the next stitch of Rnd 16 as usual and pull up a loop (5 loops).
5. Yo and draw through all 5 loops.
A SpSt counts as 1 stitch. Keep the long loops relaxed so the fabric does not pucker.
3-dc Cluster (cl): (yo, insert in st, pull up a loop, yo, draw through 2 loops) 3 times in the same stitch; yo, draw through all 4 loops. Counts as 1 stitch.
Romanian cord: described in the Cords section.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc and 17 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in single crochet.
You don’t need a separate swatch. Make one complete basket first and measure it at each checkpoint, so the base works as your swatch.
- After Rnd 6 (36 sts): base measures 2.9 in (7.4 cm) across.
- After Rnd 11 (66 sts): base measures 5.25 in (13.3 cm) across.
- After Rnd 22: wall is 2.75 in (7.0 cm) tall from the ridge; outer circumference is 16.5 in (41.9 cm).
- After Rnd 24: total height is 3.25 in (8.3 cm).
If the base is too big: go down to a 4.0 mm hook. If it’s too small: go up to 5.0 mm. A base that’s too small won’t fit a standard roll, which is about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) across. If the base ruffles, your tension is loose; if it cups, it’s tight. Change the hook size rather than the stitch counts, because the flower band and rim depend on exactly 66 stitches.
Basket (Make 3)
Join every round with a sl st to the first stitch. The beginning ch 1 does not count as a stitch. To change color, work the joining sl st with the new color.
Base
With A, make a magic ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, 6 sc in ring, join. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around, join. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in next st, inc in next st 6 times, join. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in first st, inc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st 5 times, sc in last st, join. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, inc in next st 6 times, join. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 4 sts, inc in next st 5 times, sc in last 2 sts, join. (36 sts)
Checkpoint: 2.9 in (7.4 cm) across.
Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in next 5 sts, inc in next st 6 times, join. (42 sts)
Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 6 sts, inc in next st 5 times, sc in last 3 sts, join. (48 sts)
Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in next 7 sts, inc in next st 6 times, join. (54 sts)
Rnd 10: Ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 8 sts, inc in next st 5 times, sc in last 4 sts, join. (60 sts)
Rnd 11: Ch 1, sc in next 9 sts, inc in next st 6 times, join. (66 sts)
Checkpoint: the base measures 5.25 in (13.3 cm) across when lying flat. Staggering the increases keeps the circle round instead of hexagonal.
Wall
Rnd 12: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around, join. (66 sts) The unused front loops form the ridge where the wall turns up.
Rnds 13–16: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (66 sts) Change to B on the last join of Rnd 16.
Flower Band
Rnd 17 (B): Ch 1, sc in next st, SpSt over next st, sc in next st 22 times, join. (66 sts: 44 sc + 22 SpSt)
Each SpSt makes three yellow petals that fan down into the periwinkle: two reach into Rnd 15 and the longest reaches into Rnd 14.
Rnd 18 (B): Ch 1, sc in next sc, cl in top of SpSt, sc in next sc 22 times, join. (66 sts: 44 sc + 22 cl) Change to A on the last join.
The clusters puff up above each spike fan, completing the star shape.
Rnd 19 (A): Ch 1, hdc in next sc, sc in next cl, hdc in next sc 22 times, join. (66 sts) The hdc stitches fill the low spots beside the taller clusters, so the top edge stays level.
Rnds 20–22: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (66 sts) Fasten off A.
Checkpoint: the wall measures 2.75 in (7.0 cm) from the ridge to the top of Rnd 22. This is the size before the border.
Make All Pieces
- Baskets: 3, each using about 53 g A, 15 g B and 10 g C (C is for the rim)
- Cords: 2 in C, about 15 g for both
Layout grid (front view):
/\ <- hanging loop at apex
/ \ <- free cords, 8 in (20.3 cm) each
|[ Basket 1 ]| <- top tier
| | <- free cords, 3 in (7.6 cm)
|[ Basket 2 ]| <- middle tier
| | <- free cords, 3 in (7.6 cm)
|[ Basket 3 ]| <- bottom tier
Weave in all the basket ends before joining. Leave the cord tails long.
Border (Shell-Scallop Rim)
The rim is each basket’s border. Work it on all three baskets before joining.
Border gauge: one scallop spans 6 stitches and measures about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) along the rim edge.
Rnd 23 (C): Join C in any st of Rnd 22. Ch 1, sc in next 10 sts, inc in next st 6 times, join. (72 sts = 66 sts worked one per stitch + 6 added)
Rnd 24 (C): Ch 1, sc in first st, skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, skip 2 sts, sc in next st 11 times, skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, skip 2 sts, join to first sc. (12 scallops; 12 sc + 60 dc)
Counts per half: each half of the basket, between the two cord positions, holds exactly 36 sts of Rnd 23 and 6 scallops.
Why the math works: 72 divides evenly by the 6-stitch repeat. That gives 12 identical scallops with no partial repeat at the join. The 6 extra stitches in Rnd 23 make the rim edge about 18 in (45.7 cm) around, against a 16.5 in (41.9 cm) wall. The scallops flare slightly and sit open instead of crowding. Rnd 23 adds a little height and Rnd 24 adds the scallop depth. Together they add 0.5 in (1.3 cm), which brings each basket to 3.25 in (8.3 cm).
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Cords (Make 2)
With C, leave a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail.
Row 1: Ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook.
Row 2: Turn the work clockwise, like turning a page. Insert the hook under the single loop on the left edge, pull up a loop and complete a sc.
Row 3 and on: Turn clockwise, insert the hook under the 2 loops on the left edge and sc.
Repeat Row 3 until the cord measures 22.25 in (56.5 cm), about 110 rows. Each row adds roughly 0.2 in (0.5 cm). Leave a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail and fasten off.
Both cords must be the same length to within 0.25 in (0.6 cm). Lay them side by side and check before joining.
Joining
Method: whipstitch with C, using the cord tails or a separate length of cream yarn.
Marking: on each basket, place a marker in a valley sc of Rnd 24. Count 6 scallops along the rim and place a second marker in the opposite valley sc. In Rnd 22, the columns below the two markers are 33 sts apart (66 / 2), so the cords sit exactly opposite each other.
Stitch-to-stitch logic: each cord runs straight up a marked column from the Rnd 12 ridge to Rnd 22. That’s 11 rounds and 2.75 in (7.0 cm) of cord per basket. Make one whipstitch per round, catching the edge of the cord and the matching stitch in that column. Then tack the cord once through Rnd 23 and once through the valley sc of Rnd 24 so it passes cleanly over the rim.
Order:
- Sew the bottom end of Cord 1 to Basket 3 (bottom tier), starting at the ridge. Repeat with Cord 2 on the opposite column.
- Leave 3 in (7.6 cm) of free cord above the rim on both sides. Sew both cords to Basket 2 the same way.
- Leave another 3 in (7.6 cm) of free cord. Sew both cords to Basket 1.
- The remaining 8 in (20.3 cm) on each side forms the triangle. Bring the two cord tips together and sew them side by side for 0.25 in (0.6 cm).
- Hanging loop: join C through both tips, ch 12, sl st into the first ch. The loop is about 2 in (5.1 cm) long.
Cord length check: 3 x 2.75 in (sewn) + 2 x 3 in (gaps) + 8 in (top) = 22.25 in (56.5 cm), which matches the cord length.
Tension advice: pull each whipstitch snug but not tight. Tight sewing shortens the cord and dents the basket wall inward. Hang the piece after each basket and check that it hangs level before you go on.
Size checkpoint: when hung, the holder measures about 21.75 in (55.2 cm) from the bottom of Basket 3 to the apex, not counting the loop.
Final Blocking
- Lightly mist each basket until damp, or hover a steam iron over it without touching the yarn.
- Slide a toilet roll into each basket to set the round shape.
- Pinch each scallop into an even arch with your fingers.
- Lay the holder flat and gently pull each free cord section straight.
- Let everything dry completely with the rolls in place, for at least 6 hours.
- Remove the rolls, check the measurements and hang.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each base measures 5.25 in (13.3 cm) across and lies flat.
- Each basket has 66 sts in Rnd 22 and 12 scallops.
- Each basket has 22 evenly spaced yellow stars, with no puckered petals.
- The Rnd 12 ridge is visible on all three baskets.
- Both cords are 22.25 in (56.5 cm) long and sit directly opposite each other.
- Both gaps between tiers are 3 in (7.6 cm).
- The holder hangs level from the loop.
- All ends are woven in securely.
Troubleshooting
Base cups or ruffles: change the hook size, not the increases.
Spike stars pucker the wall: pull each long loop up to the full height of the current round before you insert the hook for the next one.
Wall slants outward: your tension in Rnds 13–22 is looser than in the base. Go down half a hook size for the wall only.
Scallops look flat: check that Rnd 23 has 72 sts and that each shell has 5 dc.
Holder tilts: one cord is longer or sewn more tightly than the other. Unpick the gap section and re-measure.
Roll does not fit: the base is under 5 in (12.7 cm). Remake it with a larger hook.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap and press the water out in a towel. Dry flat with a roll inside each basket to keep the shape.
Final Notes
Each measurement leads to the next. A gauge of 16 sc per 4 in (10.2 cm) gives a 66-stitch base of 5.25 in (13.3 cm). Eleven wall rounds bring the basket to 2.75 in (7.0 cm), and the rim adds 0.5 in (1.3 cm) for a total of 3.25 in (8.3 cm). Two 22.25 in (56.5 cm) cords hold the three baskets with 3 in (7.6 cm) gaps and an 8 in (20.3 cm) triangle, for a holder about 21.75 in (55.2 cm) tall. Check each measurement as you go and the finished holder will hang straight and hold its rolls neatly.
Happy crocheting!