This hanging organizer has three round sage-green baskets stacked on two braided-look straps. The straps meet in a triangle at the top. A band of lavender tulips with dark green stems and leaves runs around each basket, so the set looks fresh and garden-like on a bathroom wall.
The colors are soft and calm: sage green for the baskets and straps, lavender for the tulip heads and a deep leaf green for the embroidered stems. The style is cottage-modern. Firm single crochet fabric helps the baskets hold their shape.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished organizer is about 19.75 in (50.2 cm) tall from the bottom of the lowest basket to the top point. The baskets measure about 5.1 in (13.0 cm), 5.9 in (15.0 cm) and 6.8 in (17.3 cm) across, and each is about 3 in (7.6 cm) tall. Each basket holds a standard toilet roll.
Construction is simple. You crochet three flat round bases, turn up straight walls with a tulip round in the middle and finish each basket with a reverse single crochet rim that looks like a cord. Then you make two Romanian cord straps, sew them to opposite sides of each basket and join the strap ends at the top.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: about 19.75 in (50.2 cm) tall, hanging
- Skill level: Intermediate (color changes, puff stitch, simple embroidery)
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 4.5 mm (US 7)
- Number of pieces: 5 (3 baskets, 2 straps)
- Layout: baskets stacked vertically: small at the top, large at the bottom, 2.5 in (6.4 cm) apart
- Piece sizes: small 5.1 in (13.0 cm), medium 5.9 in (15.0 cm) and large 6.8 in (17.3 cm) across; straps 21 in (53.3 cm) long
- Basket height before rim: about 2.75 in (7.0 cm)
- Rim (border) depth: about 0.25 in (0.6 cm)
Materials
Choose a firm worsted cotton. Cotton gives the baskets structure and copes well with bathroom humidity. Avoid very soft or fuzzy yarn, because it lets the walls sag.
- Sage green (main color, MC): 150 g, about 240 m
- Lavender (CC1): 25 g, about 40 m
- Dark leaf green (CC2): 10 g, about 15 m
All quantities include an extra 15 percent or so to cover gauge testing and weaving in ends.
Tools:
- 4.5 mm (US 7) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- 4 locking stitch markers
- Scissors and measuring tape
- Wall peg or hook for hanging
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- BLO – back loop only
- rev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- MC / CC1 / CC2 – main color / contrast colors
Tulip puff (tp): With CC1, [yo, insert hook in st, yo, pull up a loop to hdc height] 4 times (9 loops on hook). Yo and pull through all 9 loops, then ch 1 with CC1 to lock the puff. The ch-1 is not a stitch. The puff counts as 1 st.
Romanian cord: Ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook. Rotate the work clockwise, insert the hook in the single loop on the left side and sc. Rotate clockwise again, insert the hook under the 2 loops on the left side and sc. Repeat this last step. Each sc adds length, and the cord twists into a braid-like shape.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 18 sc and 20 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc, worked firmly.
Make the small basket first and use it as your gauge test. Check these points:
- Base Round 6 (36 sts): about 2.5 in (6.4 cm) across.
- Small base Round 12 (72 sts): 5.1 in (13.0 cm) across. The circumference is about 16 in (40.6 cm).
- After Wall Round 5: the wall is about 1 in (2.5 cm) above the turning ridge.
- After Wall Round 12: the wall is about 2.75 in (7.0 cm) tall.
- After the rim: the basket is about 3 in (7.6 cm) tall.
If your base is too big, go down 0.5 mm in hook size. If it’s too small, go up 0.5 mm. A rippled base means your tension is loose; a base that cups upward means it’s tight. Don’t add or skip increases to fix the size, because the tulip repeat depends on the exact stitch count.
Basket Base (All Sizes)
Work in joined rounds. End each round with a sl st into the first sc, then ch 1 (the ch 1 doesn’t count as a stitch). Use MC.
- Round 1: 6 sc in a magic ring. (6 sts)
- Round 2: 2 sc in each st. (12 sts)
- Round 3: sc 1, 2 sc in next 6 times. (18 sts)
- Round 4: sc 1, 2 sc in next, sc 1 6 times. (24 sts)
- Round 5: sc 3, 2 sc in next 6 times. (30 sts)
- Round 6: sc 2, 2 sc in next, sc 2 6 times. (36 sts)
Keep increasing 6 sts per round. On odd rounds, put the increase at the end of the repeat; on even rounds, put it in the center. Alternating like this keeps the circle round. Round n has 6 x n sts.
- Small: stop after Round 12. (72 sts)
- Medium: stop after Round 14. (84 sts)
- Large: stop after Round 16. (96 sts)
Call your final count S: 72, 84 or 96.
Basket Walls (All Sizes)
Every wall round has S stitches. There are no increases.
- Wall Round 1: sc in BLO of each st. (S sts) This forms the turning ridge.
- Wall Rounds 2–5: sc in each st. (S sts)
Wall Round 6 (tulip round): Sl st to join Round 5, then ch 2 (doesn’t count as a stitch). Carry the color you aren’t using inside the stitches as you work. When you switch colors, finish the last yo of the previous stitch with the new color.
With MC hdc 2, with CC1 tp in next st, with MC hdc 3 around. Join with MC. (S sts: 12, 14 or 16 tulips)
Each repeat is 6 sts: 2 hdc + 1 tp + 3 hdc = 6. Because S is a multiple of 6, the repeat ends neatly at the end of the round.
- Wall Round 7: With MC only, ch 1, then sc in each st. Work into the top of each puff and skip its locking ch-1. Cut CC1. (S sts)
- Wall Rounds 8–12: sc in each st. (S sts)
Checkpoint: the wall should be about 2.75 in (7.0 cm) tall above the turning ridge. Keep your working loop live; the rim is worked next (see the Border section).
Embroidered Stems and Leaves
Use CC2 and a tapestry needle. Start and finish from the inside of the basket so the knots stay hidden.
- Stem: Bring the needle up at the base of a puff. Make one straight stitch down over Wall Rounds 5 and 4.
- Leaves: From the bottom of the stem, make one straight stitch up and out to the left, ending in Wall Round 5 one st to the left of the puff. Do the same on the right. This makes a V under the tulip.
- Repeat under every tulip. Keep the strands on the inside loose enough that the wall doesn’t pucker.
Straps
Make 2 with MC.
Work Romanian cord until the strap measures 21 in (53.3 cm). That’s about 5 sc per 1 in (2.5 cm). Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail on each strap for the top join.
Lay both straps side by side. Their lengths must match to within 0.25 in (0.6 cm). If one is longer, undo stitches from that end.
Make All Pieces
| Piece | Qty | Base rounds | Stitches (S) | Tulips | Colors |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Small basket | 1 | 12 | 72 | 12 | MC, CC1, CC2 |
| Medium basket | 1 | 14 | 84 | 14 | MC, CC1, CC2 |
| Large basket | 1 | 16 | 96 | 16 | MC, CC1, CC2 |
| Strap | 2 | – | cord | – | MC |
Layout (front view):
/\ top point: strap ends overlap 0.75 in (1.9 cm)
/ \
[ SMALL 72 ] top tier
| 2.5 in |
[ MEDIUM 84 ] middle tier
| 2.5 in |
[ LARGE 96 ] bottom tier
A B strap A and strap B
Joining
Mark the strap points. On each basket, count the stitches of Wall Round 12. Put marker A in st 6. Put marker B in st 6 + S/2: that’s st 42 on the small basket, st 48 on the medium and st 54 on the large. Stitch 6 of each repeat sits in the middle of the plain stitches between two tulips, so neither strap covers a puff. The two halves between the markers are equal, so each basket hangs level.
Sew from the bottom up. Start with the large basket. Lay the starting end of strap A at the turning ridge, centered on marker A. Whipstitch with MC, one stitch per wall round, from Wall Round 1 up to Wall Round 13 (the rim). Catch both outer loops of the cord each time. That makes 13 whipstitches per strap on each basket. Sew strap B at marker B the same way.
Space the tiers. Measure 2.5 in (6.4 cm) up each strap from the rim of the large basket. Line up the medium basket’s turning ridge at that point and sew it on the same way. Repeat to attach the small basket above the medium one.
Tension. Pull each whipstitch snug but not tight. Tight sewing shortens the strap and tilts the basket. Check that the gaps measure the same on both straps.
Top point. Bring the two strap ends together above the small basket. Overlap them by 0.75 in (1.9 cm) and sew through both layers with the tails. The open triangle should rise about 5.75 in (14.6 cm) above the small basket’s rim.
Size checkpoint: The hanging organizer measures about 19.75 in (50.2 cm) from the bottom of the large basket to the top point. That’s three 3 in baskets, two 2.5 in gaps and about 5.75 in of triangle. Each strap uses 9 in along the baskets, 5 in in the gaps, about 6.25 in up one side of the triangle and 0.75 in of overlap, for a total of 21 in (53.3 cm).
Border
The border is the rim round on each basket. Work it right after Wall Round 12, before you sew on the straps.
Border gauge: about 4.5 rev sc per 1 in (2.5 cm), the same as the sc gauge. The rim is about 0.25 in (0.6 cm) deep.
Wall Round 13 (rim): With MC, ch 1, then rev sc in each st, working from left to right. Join, fasten off and weave in the ends. (S sts)
Counts per half (between the strap markers):
- Small: 36 + 36 = 72 sts
- Medium: 42 + 42 = 84 sts
- Large: 48 + 48 = 96 sts
Why the math works: The rim has exactly 1 rev sc in each existing stitch, so it adds no stitches and doesn’t flare. Each half is S/2, which is a multiple of 6, so each half holds a whole number of tulip repeats: 6, 7 or 8 tulips. Marker B falls at the same point in its repeat as marker A, so the straps sit in matching gaps on opposite sides.
Final Blocking
- Lightly spray each basket with water until it is damp but not soaked.
- Slide a toilet roll or a round container of matching size inside to shape the walls.
- Press the base flat on a towel and straighten the turning ridge.
- Roll the rim gently outward with your fingers so it looks like an even cord.
- Pull each strap straight and lay it flat to dry.
- Let everything dry completely, at least 12 hours, before hanging.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- The small, medium and large bases have 72, 84 and 96 sts.
- Every wall round keeps S sts.
- There are 12, 14 and 16 tulips, evenly spaced.
- Every tulip has a stem and a V of leaves.
- The rims are even, with no gaps or skipped stitches.
- Both straps are 21 in (53.3 cm) long and sewn on in opposite gaps.
- The gaps between tiers measure 2.5 in (6.4 cm).
- The organizer hangs level from the top point.
Troubleshooting
The base cups upward: Your tension is tight. Go up a hook size or loosen your grip.
The base ripples: Your tension is loose, or the increases are stacked on top of each other. Alternate them as written.
The tulips lean or look flat: Pull each puff loop up to the same height and lock it with the ch-1.
The carried color shows through: Keep the carried yarn loose and centered inside each stitch.
A basket tilts: Check that markers A and B split the round into equal halves and that both whipstitch seams are equally tight.
The walls sag: Use a firmer cotton or go down 0.5 mm in hook size.
Care
Hand wash in cool water, press out the extra water in a towel and reshape the baskets to dry flat. Don’t hang the organizer while it’s wet, or the straps will stretch.
Final Notes
Each measurement builds on the last. Gauge sets the bases at 5.1 in (13.0 cm), 5.9 in (15.0 cm) and 6.8 in (17.3 cm). The walls rise to 2.75 in (7.0 cm), and the rim brings each basket to 3 in (7.6 cm). Two 21 in (53.3 cm) straps, sewn on with 2.5 in (6.4 cm) gaps and joined at the top, give a 19.75 in (50.2 cm) hanging organizer. Check each measurement as you go and the pieces will fit together neatly.
Happy crocheting!