This hanging holder has three round baskets sitting side by side, each holding one spare toilet roll. Every basket has a solid cream base, open blue honeycomb mesh, a corded blue rim, and a cream snowflake sewn on the front.
The royal blue and cream colors give it a crisp winter feel without looking too much like Christmas, so it can stay up from December through February. A single blue cord runs from the two end baskets up to a hook, with a mini snowflake at the top.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder is 14.7 in (37.3 cm) wide and 4 in (10.2 cm) tall at the baskets, and it hangs about 10 in (25.4 cm) tall from the peak of the strap.
Construction is simple. You crochet each basket from the bottom up in joined rounds: a flat circle, a cream wall band, then blue mesh. Next you sew the three baskets together along their sides and work the rim on each one. Last, you add the snowflakes and the strap.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 14.7 in (37.3 cm) wide × 4 in (10.2 cm) tall at the baskets; about 10 in (25.4 cm) tall to the strap peak
- Skill level: Easy–Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
- Hooks: 5.0 mm (H-8) for the baskets and strap; 4.0 mm (G-6) for the snowflakes
- Number of pieces: 8 (3 baskets, 3 large snowflakes, 1 mini snowflake, 1 strap)
- Layout: 3 baskets in 1 row
- Piece size: each basket is 4.9 in (12.4 cm) across and 4 in (10.2 cm) tall
- Size before border (rim): 3.25 in (8.3 cm) tall
- Border (rim) depth: 0.75 in (1.9 cm)
Materials
Use a smooth, firm 100% cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds the cylinder shape and doesn’t mind bathroom humidity. Acrylic works, but the baskets will be softer.
- Royal blue: 50 g / 95 m (104 yd)
- Cream: 70 g / 133 m (145 yd)
These amounts assume about 190 m per 100 g and include a margin of roughly 25%.
Tools:
– 5.0 mm (H-8) and 4.0 mm (G-6) crochet hooks
– Tapestry needle
– 4 stitch markers
– Scissors
– Tape measure
– Pins and a blocking mat
– A spare toilet roll or a 4.5 in (11.4 cm) jar to use as a blocking form
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- BLO – back loop only
- sk – skip
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
- ch-3 loop – the space under a chain-3
Reverse single crochet (rev sc): Work from left to right (right to left if you crochet left-handed). Insert the hook into the next stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through both loops. This makes the twisted, corded rim.
Branch: Ch 3, then sl st in the 2nd and 3rd ch from the hook.
Gauge and Checkpoints
With the 5.0 mm hook, 14 sc and 16 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm). In the mesh, 3 mesh rounds = 1 in (2.5 cm).
Make one complete basket before starting the others, and check these measurements:
- After Round 9: the base lies flat and measures 4.9 in (12.4 cm) across.
- After Round 14: the cream wall is 1.25 in (3.2 cm) tall.
- After Round 20: the wall is 3.25 in (8.3 cm) tall.
- After the rim: the wall is 4 in (10.2 cm) tall, and a standard roll fits inside with a little room to spare.
If the base comes out larger than 4.9 in (12.4 cm), go down half a hook size. If it’s smaller and a roll won’t fit, go up half a size. If the base ruffles, you’re crocheting too loosely. If it cups, you’re crocheting too tightly.
Basket (Make 3)
Use the 5.0 mm hook. Join every round with a sl st to the first sc. Ch 1 at the start of each round doesn’t count as a stitch. Keep the joins lined up at the center back.
Base (Cream)
Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 1, then work 6 sc in the ring. Join. (6 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around. Join. (12 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st 6 times. Join. (18 sts)
Round 4: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st 6 times. Join. (24 sts)
Round 5: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st 6 times. Join. (30 sts)
Round 6: Ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st 6 times. Join. (36 sts)
Round 7: Ch 1, sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st 6 times. Join. (42 sts)
Round 8: Ch 1, sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st 6 times. Join. (48 sts)
Round 9: Ch 1, sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st 6 times. Join. (54 sts)
Checkpoint: the base is 4.9 in (12.4 cm) across.
Cream Wall Band
Round 10: Ch 1, sc in the BLO of each st around. Join. (54 sts) This turns the edge up into a wall.
Rounds 11–14: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (54 sts)
Fasten off the cream. The band is 5 rounds tall, which is 1.25 in (3.2 cm).
Blue Honeycomb Mesh
Join the blue in the st at the center-back join.
Round 15 (set-up): Ch 1, sc in the same st, ch 3, sk 2 sts, sc in next st 17 times, ch 3, sk 2 sts, join to the first sc. (18 sc and 18 ch-3 loops)
This works because 54 sts ÷ 3 = 18 repeats, so the mesh lands exactly on the wall stitches.
Round 16: Sl st in each of the first 2 ch of the next loop. Ch 1, sc in the same loop, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 loop 17 times, ch 3, join to the first sc. (18 ch-3 loops)
Rounds 17–20: Repeat Round 16. (18 ch-3 loops each round)
Each round’s sc sits in the middle of the loop below it, which staggers the openings into the honeycomb pattern. The six mesh rounds add 2 in (5.1 cm), bringing the wall to 3.25 in (8.3 cm). Fasten off, leaving a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail.
Mark the side points: Count from the center-back join. Place one marker in the cream band at st 14 and another at st 41. These stitches are halfway around from each other, and they’re where the baskets will meet. The front center is st 28.
Large Snowflake (Make 3)
Use cream and the 4.0 mm hook.
Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 1, then work 12 sc in the ring. Join. (12 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in next st, then make an arm: ch 9, sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 2 ch (tip made); branch twice (outer V); sl st in the next 2 ch of the main chain; branch twice (inner V); sl st in the last 3 ch of the main chain; sc in next st 6 times. Join. (12 sc, 6 arms)
Arm check: the 9 chains give 8 working chains after the first one is skipped. You work 3 for the tip, 2 between the V’s, and 3 at the base, for a total of 8. The snowflake measures 3 in (7.6 cm) from tip to tip. Leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail.
Mini Snowflake (Make 1)
Use cream and the 4.0 mm hook.
Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 1, then work 12 sc in the ring. Join. (12 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in next st, ch 6, sl st in the 2nd and 3rd ch from the hook, branch twice, sl st in the last 3 ch of the main chain, sc in next st 6 times. Join. (12 sc, 6 arms)
The 6 chains give 5 working chains, worked as 2 + 3. The mini snowflake measures 2 in (5.1 cm) across.
Strap (Make 1)
Use blue and the 5.0 mm hook.
Ch 86. Sl st in the back bump of the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (85 sl sts) Fasten off, leaving 8 in (20.3 cm) tails at both ends.
The strap should measure 19 in (48.3 cm) without stretching. If it’s off by more than 0.5 in (1.3 cm), add or remove chains, about 4.5 ch per inch.
Make All Pieces
- Cream: 3 bases with wall bands, 3 large snowflakes, 1 mini snowflake
- Blue: mesh on all 3 baskets, 1 strap, and later the 3 rims
Layout, seen from the front with the center-back joins facing the wall:
[ Basket 1 ][ Basket 2 ][ Basket 3 ]
st 41 ↔ st 14 st 41 ↔ st 14
Joining
Stand the baskets in a row on a table, with the joins facing back and the markers facing each other. Basket 1’s st 41 meets Basket 2’s st 14, and Basket 2’s st 41 meets Basket 3’s st 14. Basket 1’s st 14 and Basket 3’s st 41 stay free on the outer ends.
Method: Whipstitch with cream through the side-point column, one stitch at a time:
- Rounds 10–14: whipstitch the marked st of each basket together on every round, so 5 joined rounds per seam. Also catch the st on each side of the marker on Rounds 10 and 14, which gives a 3-st-wide anchor at the top and bottom of the band.
- Rounds 15–20: switch to blue. On each mesh round, tack together the sc that sits closest to the side point on each basket, so 6 joined rounds per seam.
That makes 11 joined rounds per seam, and they line up row for row because all three baskets have the same round count. Pull each stitch just snug. If you pull too hard, the cylinders flatten. If the stitches are too loose, the baskets will swing apart under the weight of the rolls.
Checkpoint: the joined row is 14.7 in (37.3 cm) wide (3 × 4.9 in, or 3 × 12.4 cm) and 3.25 in (8.3 cm) tall.
Border: Corded Rim
Work the rim separately on each basket. The top loops are still free, because the seams stop at Round 20.
Border gauge: 14 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm), the same as the walls. That gives 54 sts around, or 15.4 in (39.1 cm) of circumference.
Join the blue in any ch-3 loop at the center back.
Round 21 (conversion): Ch 1, 3 sc in each of the 18 ch-3 loops. Join. (18 loops × 3 sc = 54 sts: 27 across the front half and 27 across the back half)
Round 22: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (54 sts: 27 front, 27 back)
Round 23: Ch 1, rev sc in each st around. Join. (54 rev sc: 27 front, 27 back) Fasten off.
Why the math works: Round 15 turned 54 stitches into 18 loops, and Round 21 turns those 18 loops back into 54 stitches. The rim has the same count as the base, so the basket stays straight instead of flaring or pulling in. The three rounds add 0.75 in (1.9 cm), which brings each basket to 4 in (10.2 cm) tall.
When all three rims are done, tack neighboring rims together at the side points with 2 blue stitches through Round 22.
Snowflakes and Strap
Center a large snowflake on st 28 of each basket. The center should sit on Round 17, with the two lower arms overlapping the cream band. Sew the snowflake down around its center ring and at each arm tip and V.
Sew one end of the strap to the rim at Basket 1’s st 14 and the other end to Basket 3’s st 41, the outer side points, stitching through all 3 rim rounds. Find the middle of the strap, the 43rd sl st, and work a hanging loop there: join the blue, ch 8, and sl st in the same st. Sew the mini snowflake on the front, just below the loop.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends, catching each tail through matching colors.
- Mist the baskets lightly with water.
- Push a roll or jar into each basket. This rounds out the cylinders and opens up the mesh.
- Pin each snowflake flat on the mat first, spreading its arms evenly, and let it dry before you sew it on. If it’s already attached, pin it on the form instead.
- Hang the strap with a light weight on it overnight so it straightens.
- Let everything dry completely, about 24 hours.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- [ ] Each base measures 4.9 in (12.4 cm) across and lies flat
- [ ] Each basket has 54 sts in Rounds 9–14 and 21–23, and 18 loops in Rounds 15–20
- [ ] Each seam has 11 joined rounds, matched round to round
- [ ] The row is 14.7 in (37.3 cm) wide and 4 in (10.2 cm) tall
- [ ] All snowflakes face the same way, centered on st 28
- [ ] The strap peak hangs about 6 in (15.2 cm) above the rims
- [ ] All ends are woven in securely
Troubleshooting
- The mesh slants: you’re starting each round in a different spot. Always start with 2 sl sts into the next loop.
- The rim flares: make sure Round 21 has exactly 3 sc per loop, then check that you have 54 sts.
- The rolls don’t fit: go up one hook size and remake the base. Don’t add increase rounds, because the mesh math depends on 54 sts.
- The baskets tilt forward: the strap is attached too far toward the front. Move each end to the exact side point.
- The snowflake arms curl: re-block them pinned flat, or add a tacking stitch at each V.
Care
Hand wash in cool water, press out the extra water in a towel, then reshape the baskets over rolls to dry. Don’t put the holder in the dryer.
Final Notes
All the measurements build on one another. The base is 54 sts and 4.9 in (12.4 cm) across, and those 54 sts become 18 mesh loops. The cream band is 1.25 in (3.2 cm) tall, and the mesh adds 2 in (5.1 cm), for a wall of 3.25 in (8.3 cm). The 54-st rim adds 0.75 in (1.9 cm), so each basket is 4 in (10.2 cm) tall. Three baskets side by side make 14.7 in (37.3 cm), and the 19 in (48.3 cm) strap raises the peak about 6 in (15.2 cm) above the rims. If you check each measurement as you go, all three baskets will match.
Happy crocheting!