These hanging baskets look like holiday ornaments and hold spare toilet paper rolls. Three round baskets hang side by side from a teal crochet bar. Each one has a solid bowl, an open band of interlocking rings, a slightly narrower rim and a copper bow at the front.
The colors are deep teal and warm copper. The rings make the baskets look like glass baubles, so they suit the holidays. The solid teal keeps them neat enough to leave up all year.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. Each basket is about 6 in (15.2 cm) wide and 6 in (15.2 cm) tall, and fits a standard roll up to 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide. The bar is 20 in (50.8 cm) long.
You work each basket from the bottom up in joined rounds. The base is a flat circle. The wall is solid single crochet, then come three lace rounds and a three-round rim. You add a strap and a bow to each basket, cover a dowel with a crochet sleeve, slide the baskets onto it and tie on a hanging cord.
Finished Size and Construction
- Basket size: 6 in (15.2 cm) wide × 6 in (15.2 cm) tall, not counting the strap loop
- Rim opening: 4.9 in (12.4 cm) across
- Skill level: Easy to intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Bulky (#5) cotton or cotton-blend cord
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 3 baskets, 3 straps, 3 bows, 1 bar sleeve and 1 hanging cord
- Layout: 3 baskets in one row on a 20 in (50.8 cm) bar
- Size before rim border: 5.9 in (15.0 cm) across at the widest point
- Rim border depth: 0.75 in (1.9 cm), 3 rounds
Materials
Choose a firm, smooth bulky cotton cord, about 110 m per 100 g. Cotton holds the basket’s shape and handles steamy bathrooms well. Very soft acrylic will sag under the weight of the rolls.
- Teal (Color A): 200 g, 220 m, for the baskets, straps, bar sleeve and cord
- Copper (Color B): 15 g, 15 m, for the bows
These amounts include a margin of about 15 percent for swatching and joining.
Tools:
– 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
– Wooden dowel, 5/8 in (1.6 cm) thick and 20 in (50.8 cm) long
– Tapestry needle
– 4 stitch markers
– Scissors and measuring tape
– Spray bottle and pins for blocking
– A toilet paper roll for test fitting
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- 2 sc: 2 single crochet in the same stitch (an increase)
- BLO: back loop only
- rev sc: reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
- sp: space
- st(s): stitch(es)
Special stitch: knot. Work (sc, ch 1, sc) into the center of one ch-7 loop. Each knot forms one of the small joins where the rings meet.
Reverse sc: Work single crochet from left to right (right to left for left-handers). It makes a rolled, rope-like edge.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 13 sc and 14 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc worked in rounds.
Make one full basket before starting the others. A basket is a better gauge test than a flat swatch, because the base and wall both need to come out right. Measure at these points:
- After Round 8: The flat base is 4.7 in (11.9 cm) across.
- After Round 16: The solid wall is 2.25 in (5.7 cm) high above the base edge, and the outside measures 18.5 in (47.0 cm) around.
- After Round 19: The lace band adds 2.75 in (7.0 cm) of height.
- After Round 22: The rim measures 15.4 in (39.1 cm) around, which is 4.9 in (12.4 cm) across.
If your basket is too big, go down to a 4.5 mm hook. If it is too small or the roll won’t fit, go up to a 5.5 mm hook. Do not change the stitch counts, because the lace repeat depends on them.
Basket (make 3)
Use Color A. Work in joined rounds. Do not turn. The ch 1 at the start of a round does not count as a stitch. The join sits at the center back of the basket.
Base
Round 1: Make a magic ring, ch 1, 6 sc in the ring, sl st to the first sc to join. (6 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, join. (12 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, sc 1, 2 sc in next; repeat from * 6 times total, join. (18 sts)
Round 4: Ch 1, sc 2, 2 sc in next 6 times, join. (24 sts)
Round 5: Ch 1, sc 3, 2 sc in next 6 times, join. (30 sts)
Round 6: Ch 1, sc 4, 2 sc in next 6 times, join. (36 sts)
Round 7: Ch 1, sc 5, 2 sc in next 6 times, join. (42 sts)
Round 8: Ch 1, sc 6, 2 sc in next 6 times, join. (48 sts)
Checkpoint: The base lies flat and measures 4.7 in (11.9 cm) across.
Solid Wall
Round 9: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around, join. (48 sts) This makes a ridge where the base turns up into the wall.
Round 10: Ch 1, sc 7, 2 sc in next 6 times, join. (54 sts)
Round 11: Ch 1, sc 8, 2 sc in next 6 times, join. (60 sts)
The two increase rounds make the bowl curve outward like a bauble.
Rounds 12–16: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (60 sts in each round)
Checkpoint: The wall is 2.25 in (5.7 cm) high above the ridge and 18.5 in (47.0 cm) around.
Lace Band
Round 17: Ch 1, sc in the first st, ch 7, skip 2 sts, sc in next st, ch 7, skip 2 sts; repeat from * 19 more times, then join to the first sc. (20 sc and 20 ch-7 loops)
Each loop uses 3 base stitches (60 ÷ 3 = 20), so the repeat comes out even.
Round 18: Sl st in each of the next 3 ch to reach the center of the first loop. Ch 1, work 1 knot in the same loop, ch 7, 1 knot in the next ch-7 loop, ch 7; repeat from * 18 more times, then join to the first sc. (20 knots and 20 ch-7 loops)
Each new loop arches between two knots below it, so the loops cross and form rings and diamonds.
Round 19: Repeat Round 18. (20 knots and 20 ch-7 loops)
Checkpoint: The lace band is 2.75 in (7.0 cm) high when the basket is held upright. Check that the knots line up in diagonal rows, not in straight columns.
Strap and Bow (make 3 of each)
Strap (Color A): Ch 21.
– Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, turn. (20 sts)
– Rows 2–3: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (20 sts in each row)
Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. The strap is 6.2 in (15.7 cm) long and 0.9 in (2.3 cm) wide.
Bow (Color B): Ch 46, then sl st in the back bump of each ch from the 2nd ch from the hook. (45 sl sts) This makes a thick cord about 9 in (22.9 cm) long.
Tie the cord into a bow with two loops 1.25 in (3.2 cm) long and two tails 1.5 in (3.8 cm) long. Wrap a separate strand of Color B four times around the center knot and tie it off at the back. The finished bow is about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) wide. Leave a tail long enough to sew the bow on.
Make All Pieces
- Color A: 3 baskets, 3 straps, 1 bar sleeve, 1 hanging cord
- Color B: 3 bows
Layout from left to right, as it hangs on the wall:
^ hook ^
/ \
[=========BAR=========]
| | |
[B1] [B2] [B3]
The basket centers sit 6.5 in (16.5 cm) apart, 3.5 in (8.9 cm) in from each end of the bar.
Joining
Bar sleeve (Color A): Ch 8.
– Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, turn. (7 sts)
– Rows 2–70: Ch 1, sc 7, turn. (7 sts in each row)
The sleeve is 20 in (50.8 cm) long and 2.2 in (5.6 cm) wide. Wrap it around the dowel. Whipstitch the long edges together with the seam along the underside, matching one row to one row. Pull the sleeve snug, but not so tight that it twists.
Hanging cord (Color A): Ch 181, then sl st in the back bump of each ch from the 2nd ch from the hook. (180 sl sts, about 36 in or 91.4 cm long)
Attaching the straps: Fold each strap into a loop. Overlap its two ends by 1 in (2.5 cm) on the inside of the basket at center back. Sew the ends over Rounds 20–21 across 3 rim stitches: the last stitch, the joining stitch and the first stitch. Sew stitch to stitch through both layers with small, firm whipstitches. Pull hard enough that the rim does not dip, but not so hard that it puckers. The loop rises about 2 in (5.1 cm) above the rim.
Attaching the bows: Center each bow on the front of the rim, over stitches 25–26 directly opposite the join. Sew through the center knot and both tails.
Assembly: Slide the three strap loops onto the covered bar. Tie one end of the hanging cord tightly around each end of the bar, 0.5 in (1.3 cm) in from the tips, and sew the cord ends down.
Checkpoint: The finished set is 20 in (50.8 cm) wide, the baskets hang level, and there is a gap of about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) between neighboring baskets.
Border
On this design, the border is the three-round rim that finishes each basket. Each rim has 25 stitches across the front half and 25 across the back half.
Rim gauge: 13 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm). Reverse sc follows the same stitch gauge but is only about 0.25 in (0.6 cm) tall.
Round 20 (conversion round): Sl st in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, 2 sc in the next ch-7 loop, 3 sc in the following ch-7 loop; repeat from * 9 more times, then join. (10 × 2 + 10 × 3 = 50 sts)
That gives 25 stitches across the front and 25 across the back.
Round 21: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (50 sts: 25 front, 25 back)
Round 22: Ch 1, rev sc in each st around, join. Fasten off and weave in the ends. (50 sts: 25 front, 25 back)
Why the math works: Round 20 closes up 20 lace loops with an average of 2.5 sc each, so there are 50 stitches. The rim is now 10 stitches smaller than the 60-stitch wall. At 3.25 sts per inch, 50 stitches measure 15.4 in (39.1 cm) around, which is 4.9 in (12.4 cm) across. That pulls the top in to give the bauble shape, and a 4.5 in (11.4 cm) roll still fits with room to spare. Rounds 21 and 22 work one stitch into each stitch, so the count stays the same.
Final Blocking
- Put a toilet paper roll inside each basket.
- Spray the lace band and the rim with water until they are damp but not soaked.
- Pull each lace loop gently into shape so the rings look round and the knots line up.
- Pinch the reverse sc rim so the rolled edge sits upright.
- Fluff each bow and pin its loops flat against a towel.
- Let everything dry for 24 hours with the rolls still inside, so each basket dries in the right shape.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each basket has 48 base sts, 60 wall sts, 20 lace loops and 50 rim sts.
- All three baskets are within 0.25 in (0.6 cm) of each other in width and height.
- The knots sit in diagonal rows in every lace round.
- The strap ends are sewn securely through both layers.
- Each bow is centered opposite its strap.
- The sleeve seam is hidden underneath the bar.
- The cord is tied equally tight at both ends, so the bar hangs level.
- All yarn tails are woven in and trimmed.
Troubleshooting
The base curls up like a bowl: Your tension is tight. Loosen your grip or go up half a hook size for Rounds 1–8.
The base ruffles: Your stitches are loose. Go down half a hook size.
The lace looks lopsided: Check that you made 3 sl sts to the center of each loop before the first knot of the round.
The roll will not fit: Redo Round 20 using 3 sc in every loop (60 sts) instead of alternating 2 and 3 sc.
The basket tips forward: Move the strap ends 1 stitch toward the side the basket is tipping away from.
The bar sags in the middle: Use a thicker dowel or a wooden dowel instead of plastic.
Care
Spot clean with mild soap and cool water, then reshape and dry flat with a roll inside each basket. Do not tumble dry, because heat can shrink cotton and pull the lace out of shape.
Final Notes
Each measurement depends on the one before it. A gauge of 13 sc per 4 in (10.2 cm) gives a 4.7 in (11.9 cm) base. The base grows into an 18.5 in (47.0 cm) wall, which supports 20 lace loops. The rim draws in to 15.4 in (39.1 cm) around and finishes each basket at 6 in (15.2 cm) wide and tall. Three baskets fit on a 20 in (50.8 cm) bar with even gaps. Check your gauge at each stage and the set will hang level and neat.
Happy crocheting!