This small square basket pairs a soft cream base with bands of lavender granny clusters. The open “windows” between the cluster groups keep it light and airy. A firm single crochet rim gives it a clean, rounded top edge. It is just the right size for a soap pump, cotton rounds, or cotton swabs on a bathroom shelf.
The basket uses two colors. Cream is used for the base, the turning edge, alternating side rounds and the rim. Lavender is used for two contrast bands. The style is tidy and cottage-like, and it looks good with neutral tiles, wood shelves and dried lavender.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished basket measures about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) square at the base and 3.25 in (8.3 cm) tall.
The basket is made in one piece with no seams:
– Crochet a solid square base in joined rounds.
– Turn the edge upward with a back-loop round.
– Work the sides in staggered granny rounds.
– Finish with two rounds of single crochet.
Make three if you want a matching set like the one shown.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide x 4.5 in (11.4 cm) deep x 3.25 in (8.3 cm) tall
- Skill level: Easy
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted weight (#4) cotton
- Hook: US H-8 (5 mm)
- Number of pieces: 1 per basket, worked in the round with no seams
- Layout: Square base, straight square sides, rolled sc rim
- Base size after Round 5: 4.5 in (11.4 cm) square, 16 sts per side
- Size before rim: 4.5 in (11.4 cm) square x 2.75 in (7.0 cm) tall
- Rim depth: 0.5 in (1.3 cm), 2 rounds
Materials
Choose a smooth, firm 100% cotton in worsted weight. Cotton holds the square shape well, does not stretch much, and handles a damp bathroom. Acrylic also works, but it gives a softer, slouchier basket.
Yarn for one basket:
- Cream: 40 g, about 62 m (68 yd)
- Lavender: 15 g, about 23 m (25 yd)
Yarn for a set of three baskets:
- Cream: 120 g, about 185 m (202 yd)
- Lavender: 45 g, about 69 m (75 yd)
All amounts include a margin of about 10-15% for your gauge check, joins and weaving in ends.
Tools:
- US H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook
- Locking stitch markers (at least 4)
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Tape measure or ruler
- Spray bottle
- Optional: a small box or block about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) square for shaping
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- BLO – back loop only
- sp – space
- sk – skip
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- MR – magic ring
- rep – repeat
Special stitch – Granny group: (3 dc, ch 1) worked into the same stitch or space. One granny group is 3 dc plus 1 ch-1 sp. It takes up the width of 4 stitches.
Starting with ch 3: When a round begins with ch 3, the ch 3 counts as the first dc.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 14 dc and 8 dc rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm). Single crochet uses the same width gauge in this pattern: 14 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm).
Make one full base before starting a whole set. The base works as your gauge swatch. Measure it flat and unstretched against these sizes:
- After Round 1: about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across
- After Round 2: about 2.25 in (5.7 cm) across
- After Round 3: about 3.25 in (8.3 cm) across
- After Round 4: about 4.25 in (10.8 cm) across
- After Round 5: 4.5 in (11.4 cm) across
If your base is too big (over 4.75 in / 12.1 cm after Round 5), go down to a US G-6 (4 mm) or 4.5 mm hook.
If your base is too small (under 4.25 in / 10.8 cm after Round 5), go up one hook size to US I-9 (5.5 mm).
A small difference in height is fine. Width matters more, because the sides and rim are built directly on the base stitch count.
Base
Work with cream. Join every round with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 (or to the first sc). Do not turn.
Round 1: MR, ch 3, 2 dc in ring, ch 2, *3 dc in ring, ch 2; rep from * 2 more times, join. Pull the ring closed. (12 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps)
Round 2: Sl st in next 2 dc and into the corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3, (1 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, *dc in each of next 3 dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * 2 more times, dc in each of last 3 dc, join. (28 dc: 7 per side, 4 ch-2 corner sps)
Round 3: Sl st in next dc and into the corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3, (1 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, *dc in each of next 7 dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * 2 more times, dc in each of last 7 dc, join. (44 dc: 11 per side, 4 ch-2 corner sps)
Round 4: Sl st in next dc and into the corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3, (1 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, *dc in each of next 11 dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * 2 more times, dc in each of last 11 dc, join. (60 dc: 15 per side, 4 ch-2 corner sps)
About the side counts: in Rounds 2-4, each side count includes the 2 corner dc at each end of that side. Each round adds 4 dc per side.
Round 5 (conversion round): Ch 1, sc in each dc around and 1 sc in each ch-2 corner sp, join to first sc.
– Count: 60 sc (1 per dc) + 4 sc (1 per corner sp) = 64 sc.
– Place a marker in each of the 4 corner sc.
Each corner sc is shared by two sides. Count each side as its 15 sc plus one corner sc, so each side has 16 sc and 4 x 16 = 64. No corner is counted twice.
Checkpoint: The base lies flat and measures 4.5 in (11.4 cm) square. If it ripples, your corners are too loose. If it cups, make sure you worked 2 dc on each side of every corner.
Turning Round
Round 6 (cream): Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around, join. (64 sc)
Working in the back loop leaves the unused front loops as a ridge on the outside of the base. This ridge lets the fabric fold upward and makes a crisp bottom edge. Do not fasten off cream.
Checkpoint: Fold the edge up. This round should stand at a right angle to the base, and each side of the opening should still measure 4.5 in (11.4 cm).
Sides
The sides are made in staggered granny rounds, with 16 granny groups per round (4 per side). Each round puts its groups into the ch-1 spaces of the round below, so the groups sit offset like bricks. The ch-1 spaces form the small square windows.
To change color, finish joining the previous round and cut the old color, leaving a 4 in (10.2 cm) tail. Join the new color with a sl st in the space named in the round. Do not carry yarn up the inside. Weave each tail into stitches of its own color.
Round 7 (lavender): Join lavender in the sc right after a corner marker. Ch 3, 2 dc in same st, ch 1, sk 3 sc, *3 dc in next sc, ch 1, sk 3 sc; rep from * 14 more times, join to top of ch 3. Fasten off lavender. (16 granny groups: 48 dc, 16 ch-1 sps)
Check: 16 groups x 4 sts = 64 sts, the same as Round 6. The sides will rise straight without flaring.
Round 8 (cream): Join cream in the ch-1 sp nearest a corner. Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 1) in same sp, *(3 dc, ch 1) in next ch-1 sp; rep from * 14 more times, join. (16 granny groups: 48 dc, 16 ch-1 sps)
Round 9 (lavender): Join lavender in the ch-1 sp nearest the same corner. Rep Round 8. Fasten off lavender. (16 granny groups)
Round 10 (cream): Join cream in the ch-1 sp nearest the same corner. Rep Round 8. Do not fasten off. (16 granny groups)
Round 11 (cream): Sl st in next 2 dc and into the next ch-1 sp. Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 1) in same sp, *(3 dc, ch 1) in next ch-1 sp; rep from * 14 more times, join. (16 granny groups: 48 dc, 16 ch-1 sps)
Round 11 makes the all-cream band of windows just below the rim.
Checkpoint: The basket now measures 4.5 in (11.4 cm) per side. It is about 2.75 in (7.0 cm) tall from the table to the top of Round 11. Each dc round adds about 0.5 in (1.3 cm).
Border (Top Rim)
Rim gauge: 14 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm), the same as the body. With 16 sc per side, each side measures 4.5 in (11.4 cm).
Round 12 (cream, conversion round): Ch 1, sc in each dc and 1 sc in each ch-1 sp around, join. Count: 48 sc (1 per dc) + 16 sc (1 per ch-1 sp) = 64 sc, or 16 sc per side.
Round 13 (cream): Ch 1, sc in each sc around, join. (64 sc, 16 per side)
Fasten off, leaving a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail. Finish with an invisible join: thread the tail on a needle, pass it under both loops of the first sc, then go back down through the last sc. Weave in.
Why the math works: The base edge, every granny round and the rim all have 64 stitches around. Each granny group (3 dc + ch 1) covers 4 stitches, and 16 x 4 = 64. Round 12 turns each group back into 4 sc, so the rim has the same count as the base. Because the count never changes, the walls stay straight and the top opening matches the bottom.
Checkpoint: The finished basket measures 4.5 in (11.4 cm) square and 3.25 in (8.3 cm) tall. The rim adds 0.5 in (1.3 cm).
Final Blocking
- Weave in all remaining ends on the inside, through stitches of the matching color.
- Mist the basket evenly with water until it is damp but not dripping.
- Slide a small box, or a towel folded into a block about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) square, inside.
- Pinch each of the 4 vertical corners into a crisp edge with your fingers.
- Smooth the granny rounds so every ch-1 window sits open and level.
- Roll the top rim slightly outward with your thumbs to round it.
- Press the base flat on the table and check that it does not rock.
- Let it dry completely on the form, for at least 12 hours.
- Remove the form and measure again: 4.5 in (11.4 cm) square and 3.25 in (8.3 cm) tall.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Base lies flat and measures 4.5 in (11.4 cm) on each side.
- Round 5 and Round 6 each have 64 sc.
- The BLO ridge shows all around the outside bottom edge.
- Every granny round has 16 groups, 4 per side.
- Lavender appears in exactly 2 bands: Rounds 7 and 9.
- The top band (Round 11) and the rim (Rounds 12-13) are all cream.
- The rim has 64 sc and does not flare or pull in.
- Height is 3.25 in (8.3 cm).
- All ends are woven in on the inside, with no tails showing through the windows.
- In a set, all baskets match within 0.25 in (0.6 cm).
Troubleshooting
The base cups like a bowl. You probably skipped a dc at a corner. Recount each side: 7, 11, then 15 dc per side in Rounds 2-4.
The base ripples. Your corner chains are too long or your hook is too big. Chain only 2 at corners, and try a 4.5 mm hook.
The sides lean outward. Your dc are taller or looser than the gauge. Go down a hook size for Rounds 7-11 only.
The sides lean inward. Your ch-1 spaces are too tight. Chain a little more loosely so each window opens.
The rim flares. You worked more than 1 sc in a ch-1 space. Recount Round 12: it must have 64 sc.
The color joins show. Join every new color near the same back corner, and use the invisible join to finish.
Baskets in a set are different sizes. Make all the bases with the same hook, in one sitting if you can, and compare them after Round 5.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap. Press out the water with a towel, reshape the basket over a box and let it dry. Do not tumble dry.
Final Notes
The whole basket follows one chain of measurements:
– Gauge is 14 sts = 4 in (10.2 cm).
– The base grows to 15 dc per side by Round 4.
– Round 5 changes it to 64 sc, 16 per side, at 4.5 in (11.4 cm).
– The turning round keeps 64 sts.
– The 16 granny groups in each side round cover the same 64 sts.
– The rim changes them back to 64 sc.
– The sides reach 2.75 in (7.0 cm), the rim adds 0.5 in (1.3 cm), and the finished basket stands 3.25 in (8.3 cm) tall.
Check the base first and keep every side round at 16 groups, and the basket will come out square every time. Make one, or make three for a matching shelf set.
Happy crocheting!