The Rosebud Tier holder is a three-level hanging organizer that holds one spare toilet roll in each basket. Three round, open-top baskets are stacked on two crocheted straps, and the straps rise into a triangle that hangs from a single wall peg or hook.
The colors are soft and cottage-style. Blush pink is used for the bases, plain rounds, straps and rims. Deep burgundy is used for one puff band and one scalloped shell band, and sage green for a second puff band in between. Together the bands look like a row of small flower buds under a row of petals.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. Each finished basket is about 5 in (12.7 cm) across and 3 in (7.6 cm) tall, sized for a standard roll about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide. The finished holder hangs about 20 in (50.8 cm) from the peg to the bottom of the lowest basket.
The construction is simple. You work a flat double crochet base in the round, turn the wall up with a back-loop round, work the color bands, then finish with a two-round rim. Two straps topped with slip stitches are made separately and sewn to opposite sides of all three baskets. Their top ends are joined to form the hanging point.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: about 5 in (12.7 cm) wide x 20 in (50.8 cm) long, hanging
- Skill level: Easy / Intermediate (puff stitches, shells, reverse single crochet)
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 5 mm (US H-8)
- Number of pieces: 5 (3 identical baskets + 2 identical straps)
- Layout: 3 baskets stacked in 1 vertical column, straps on opposite sides
- Piece size: each basket 5 in (12.7 cm) diameter x 3 in (7.6 cm) tall; each strap 20 in (50.8 cm) x 0.5 in (1.3 cm)
- Wall height before border: 2.5 in (6.4 cm)
- Border depth: 0.5 in (1.3 cm), 2 rounds
Materials
Choose a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds its shape in a damp bathroom, shows the puff and shell texture clearly, and doesn’t stretch much under the weight of the rolls. Avoid very soft acrylics, because the baskets will sag.
- Color A, blush pink: 100 g / 170 m
- Color B, burgundy: 35 g / 60 m
- Color C, sage green: 20 g / 34 m
These quantities include a margin of about 10-15% for swatching and weaving in ends.
Tools:
- 5 mm (US H-8) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- 4 stitch markers
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Pins or clips for assembly
- A wall peg or hook
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- BLO – back loop only
- sk – skip
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rnd(s) – round(s)
- rev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch): working from left to right, insert hook in next st to the right, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through both loops
- rep – repeat
Special stitch – puff: [yo, insert hook in st, yo, pull up a loop to about 0.5 in (1.3 cm)] 3 times (7 loops on hook), yo, pull through all 7 loops. Each puff counts as 1 st.
Special stitch – shell: 5 dc in the same st.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 15 sts and 16 rnds of sc = 4 in (10.2 cm). In this pattern, a sc round is about 0.25 in (0.6 cm) tall, and a puff or shell round is about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) tall.
Make one complete basket before anything else. It is the real gauge test, because the base diameter decides whether a roll fits.
Checkpoints:
- After Rnd 1: base about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across
- After Rnd 3: base about 3 in (7.6 cm) across
- After Rnd 5: base about 5 in (12.7 cm) across, with 60 sts around, which is 16 in (40.6 cm) of circumference
- After Rnd 12: wall about 2.5 in (6.4 cm) tall
- After Rnd 14: wall 3 in (7.6 cm) tall
If your base is too big, use a hook 0.5 mm smaller. If it is too small, use a hook 0.5 mm larger. Don’t add or remove stitches. The count must stay at 60 because both color-band repeats depend on it.
Basket (Make 3)
Base
With Color A, make a magic ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 2 (does not count as a st here and throughout), 12 dc in ring, sl st to first dc. Pull the ring closed but leave a small opening in the center. (12 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to first dc. (24 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 2, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, rep from * around, sl st to first dc. (36 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 2, dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, rep from * around, sl st to first dc. (48 sts)
Rnd 5: Ch 2, dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st, rep from * around, sl st to first dc. (60 sts)
Checkpoint: the base lies flat and measures 5 in (12.7 cm) across. If it ruffles, your dc are too tight for the increases. If it cups, they are too loose.
Wall
Rnd 6 (turning round): With Color A, ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around, sl st to first sc. (60 sts) The unused front loops form a neat ridge, and the wall starts to rise.
Rnd 7 (burgundy puffs): Join Color B in any st. Ch 2, puff in same st, ch 1, sk next st, puff in next st, ch 1, sk next st, rep from * around, sl st to top of first puff. Fasten off B. (30 puffs + 30 ch-1 sps = 60 sts)
Join each new color with a sl st, and carry the cut tails along the inside of the wall. Weaving them in on the inside keeps the outer bands clean.
Rnd 8: Join Color A in any ch-1 sp. Ch 1, sc in each ch-1 sp and in each puff around, sl st to first sc. (60 sts)
Rnd 9 (green puffs): Join Color C in any sc that sits above a ch-1 sp of Rnd 7. Ch 2, puff in same st, ch 1, sk next st, puff in next st, ch 1, sk next st, rep from * around, sl st to top of first puff. Fasten off C. (30 puffs + 30 ch-1 sps = 60 sts)
Each green puff now sits between two burgundy puffs, so the two bands are staggered into the bud pattern.
Rnd 10: Join Color A in any ch-1 sp. Ch 1, sc in each ch-1 sp and in each puff around, sl st to first sc. (60 sts)
Rnd 11 (burgundy shells): Join Color B in any st. Ch 1, sc in same st, [sk 1, shell in next st, sk 1, sc in next st] 14 times, sk 1, shell in next st, sk 1, sl st to first sc. Fasten off B. (15 shells + 15 sc)
Check the math: each repeat uses 4 sts (sc, sk, shell, sk). 15 repeats x 4 sts = 60 sts, so the round closes exactly.
Rnd 12 (conversion round): Join Color A in the first sc of Rnd 11. Ch 1, sc in sc, sc in 2nd dc of shell, sc in 3rd (center) dc of shell, sc in 4th dc of shell, rep from * around, sl st to first sc. (15 sc worked into sc + 45 sc worked into shells = 60 sts)
The 1st and 5th dc of each shell stay unworked, so the scallops still show below the pink.
Checkpoint: the wall measures 2.5 in (6.4 cm) from the BLO ridge to the top of Rnd 12, with 60 sts.
Don’t fasten off. Continue to the Border.
Straps (Make 2)
With Color A, ch 76.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (75 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, sl st in each st across. (75 sl sts) Fasten off, leaving a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail.
The slip-stitch row gives the strap its braided look and keeps it from stretching. Checkpoint: each strap measures 20 in (50.8 cm) long and 0.5 in (1.3 cm) wide (75 sts / 3.75 sts per in = 20 in).
Make All Pieces
- Baskets: 3, each using Colors A, B and C
- Straps: 2, Color A only
Color use per basket: A for Rnds 1-6, 8, 10 and 12-14; B for Rnds 7 and 11; C for Rnd 9.
Layout (front view, straps marked S):
/\
/ \ <- strap tops joined at peg
S S <- 8 in (20.3 cm) free strap each side
S[ 3 ]S <- top basket, 3 in (7.6 cm)
S S <- gap, 1.6 in (4.1 cm)
S[ 2 ]S <- middle basket, 3 in (7.6 cm)
S S <- gap, 1.6 in (4.1 cm)
S[ 1 ]S <- bottom basket, 3 in (7.6 cm)
Border (Each Basket)
The border is the top rim of each basket. Work it straight on from Rnd 12 in Color A.
Border gauge: the same as the body, 15 sts = 4 in (10.2 cm). The rim must hold 60 sts so the opening matches the 16 in (40.6 cm) circumference of the base.
Rnd 13: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc. (60 sts; 30 sts on each half)
Rnd 14: Ch 1, rev sc in each st around, sl st to first st. (60 sts; 30 sts on each half) Fasten off and weave in ends.
Mark the strap points: place one marker in st 1 and another in st 31 of Rnd 14. These two points are exactly opposite each other, with 30 sts on each half of the rim.
Why the math works: 60 sts divides evenly into 30 puff-and-chain pairs (Rnds 7 and 9) and into 15 four-stitch shell repeats (Rnd 11). Every plain round and both border rounds stay at 60 sts. That keeps the rim the same size as the base, keeps the wall straight, and splits the rim into two equal 30-st halves at the strap points. Border depth: 2 sc-height rounds = 0.5 in (1.3 cm), which brings the wall from 2.5 in (6.4 cm) to 3 in (7.6 cm).
Joining
Method: Whipstitch with Color A and a tapestry needle. The straps lie flat on the outside of each wall and run straight down from the marked rim sts to the BLO ridge of Rnd 6.
Stitch-to-stitch logic: Count strap sts from the bottom end (st 1 is the first sc of Row 1).
- Strap sts 1-11 (about 3 in / 7.6 cm): bottom basket
- Strap sts 12-17 (6 sts, 1.6 in / 4.1 cm): free gap
- Strap sts 18-28: middle basket
- Strap sts 29-34: free gap
- Strap sts 35-45: top basket
- Strap sts 46-75 (30 sts, 8 in / 20.3 cm): free hanging section
Each 11-st segment measures 2.9 in (7.4 cm), which is very close to the 3 in (7.6 cm) wall. Before sewing, place markers in the strap at sts 12, 18, 29 and 35, then pin.
- Pin strap 1 to basket 1 at the st-1 marker, with strap st 1 level with the Rnd 6 ridge. Pin strap 2 at the st-31 marker the same way.
- Whipstitch both long edges of each strap to the wall, catching every wall round from Rnd 6 to Rnd 14. That is 9 rounds along each edge of the strap.
- Repeat for baskets 2 and 3, keeping all the strap points in a straight vertical line.
- Bring the free top ends together. Overlap the last 2 sts of each strap and sew through both layers to form the hanging point.
Tension: Sew firmly but don’t pull. The strap should lie flat against the wall without puckering it. Loose stitching lets the baskets tilt forward once they are loaded.
Size checkpoint: Hang the holder empty. It should measure about 20 in (50.8 cm) from peg to bottom: about 12 in (30.5 cm) for the stack, plus about 7.6 in (19.3 cm) of vertical rise in the triangle. Each gap should be 1.6 in (4.1 cm).
Final Blocking
- Lightly mist each basket with water, or steam it gently from above. Cotton handles steam well.
- Slide a toilet roll into each basket and push it down until it sits on the base.
- Shape the walls straight up around the roll and press the base flat.
- Lay the holder on a towel and straighten the straps so every gap is 1.6 in (4.1 cm).
- Let it dry completely with the rolls in place, then hang it.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each base is flat and 5 in (12.7 cm) across
- Every round has 60 sts, and Rnd 11 has 15 shells
- Green puffs sit between burgundy puffs
- Every wall is 3 in (7.6 cm) tall, with an even rev sc rim
- Straps are 20 in (50.8 cm) long and attached exactly opposite each other
- Gaps measure 1.6 in (4.1 cm)
- All ends are woven in on the inside
- The holder hangs level, with no forward tilt
Troubleshooting
The base cups or waves. Check the counts on Rnds 1-5 and adjust your hook size. A base that cups usually has dc that are too tight.
The puffs look flat. Pull each loop up to a full 0.5 in (1.3 cm) before the final yo.
The shells crowd together. Skip 1 st on both sides of every shell, so each repeat uses 4 sts.
The rim flares. Your rev sc is too loose. Use a hook one size smaller for Rnd 14 only.
A visible jog at color joins. Start each band in a different spot around the basket, and keep the joins on the back, between the strap points.
The baskets tilt forward. Re-sew the straps through every wall round, including the Rnd 6 ridge.
The roll won’t fit. The base is too small. Remake it with a larger hook and check for 5 in (12.7 cm) after Rnd 5.
Care
Hand wash in cool water and lay flat to dry, reshaping each basket around a roll. Don’t hang the holder while it’s wet, or the straps may stretch.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is short and reliable. A 5-round base gives 60 sts and 5 in (12.7 cm) across. The 60-st wall rises 2.5 in (6.4 cm), and the 2-round border brings it to 3 in (7.6 cm). Three baskets plus two 1.6 in (4.1 cm) gaps make a stack of about 12 in (30.5 cm). Two 20 in (50.8 cm) straps finish the holder at about 20 in (50.8 cm) long. Check your first basket against these numbers, and the other pieces will match.
Happy crocheting!