This hanging organizer stacks three oval baskets on two braided straps. Hang it beside a sink or behind a bathroom door and each tier holds a standing toilet paper roll, rolled hand towels, or small toiletries.
The palette is warm and simple. Caramel brown makes the base, the basketweave lower walls, and the straps. Cream yarn forms the open diamond lattice and the rounded rim. The overall look is woven-rattan boho, made with a soft, washable cotton yarn.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. Each basket measures about 8 3/4 in long x 4 3/4 in wide x 4 1/3 in tall (22.2 x 12.1 x 11.0 cm). The assembled organizer hangs about 31 in (78.7 cm) tall from the apex, not counting the small hanging loop.
Construction is straightforward. You crochet an oval base in the round, turn up the wall with a back-loop round, and work post-stitch basketweave in brown. Then you switch to cream for the mesh lattice and rim. Two straps are worked lengthwise in rows, sewn to the short ends of the baskets, and joined at the top.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished organizer: about 31 in (78.7 cm) tall x 8 3/4 in (22.2 cm) wide
- Skill level: Intermediate (post stitches, mesh, reverse single crochet)
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Bulky (#5) cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 6 mm (US J-10)
- Number of pieces: 5 (3 baskets, 2 straps)
- Layout: 3 baskets stacked vertically with 3.67 in (9.3 cm) gaps
- Piece size: basket 8 3/4 x 4 3/4 x 4 1/3 in (22.2 x 12.1 x 11.0 cm); strap 32 in x 0.5 in (81.3 x 1.3 cm)
- Basket height before rim: 4 in (10.2 cm)
- Rim (border) depth: 0.33 in (0.8 cm)
Materials
Choose a smooth, firm bulky cotton or cotton-blend yarn with good stitch definition. Soft, splitty yarn will make the basketweave look muddy and the baskets droop. If your yarn is thinner, hold two strands of worsted together and check gauge.
- Color A, Caramel Brown: 300 g, about 330 m
- Color B, Cream: 120 g, about 132 m
These quantities include a margin of about 15–20% for gauge differences and swatching.
Tools:
– 6 mm (US J-10) crochet hook
– 4 stitch markers
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– Measuring tape
– Sturdy wall peg or hook
– Optional: 3 oval pieces of plastic canvas cut to 8 1/4 x 4 1/4 in (21.0 x 10.8 cm) to stiffen the bases
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- BLO – back loop only
- fpdc – front post double crochet
- bpdc – back post double crochet
- rsc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
- sk – skip
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- ch-3 sp – chain-3 space
Special stitch: Reverse single crochet (rsc). Work from left to right (right-handed). Insert the hook into the next stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through both loops.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 12 sc and 12 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm). In dc and post stitches, 5 rounds = 2 in (5.1 cm). Each mesh round is about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) tall.
Make one complete basket before starting the others. It is your real gauge test, and every later measurement depends on it.
Checkpoints:
– After Rnd 4: base about 6 3/4 x 2 3/4 in (17.1 x 7.0 cm)
– After Rnd 7: base about 8 3/4 x 4 3/4 in (22.2 x 12.1 cm), perimeter about 22 in (55.9 cm)
– After Rnd 13: brown wall about 2.33 in (5.9 cm) tall
– After Rnd 18: total wall about 4.33 in (11.0 cm) tall
If your piece is too big: go down a hook size (5.5 mm). If it is too small: go up to 6.5 mm. Don’t add or remove stitches: the 66-stitch count drives the basketweave and mesh repeats.

Basket (Make 3)
Use stitch markers to mark the start of each long side and each curved end. Each round from Rnd 7 on is divided into 12 sts (long side), 21 sts (curved end), 12 sts (long side), and 21 sts (curved end). Unless told otherwise, join each round with a sl st to the first st and begin it with ch 1. In the brown rounds, the ch 1 does not count as a stitch.
Base (Color A)
Ch 15.
Rnd 1: 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook (end), sc in next 12 ch, 3 sc in last ch (end). Working along the opposite side of the foundation chain, sc in next 12 ch. Join. (30 sts: 3 + 12 + 3 + 12)
Rnd 2: [2 sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in next 12] twice. (36 sts)
Rnd 3: [(2 sc in next st, sc in next st) 3 times, sc in next 12] twice. (42 sts)
Rnd 4: [(2 sc in next st, sc in next 2) 3 times, sc in next 12] twice. (48 sts)
Rnd 5: [(2 sc in next st, sc in next 3) 3 times, sc in next 12] twice. (54 sts)
Rnd 6: [(2 sc in next st, sc in next 4) 3 times, sc in next 12] twice. (60 sts)
Rnd 7: [(2 sc in next st, sc in next 5) 3 times, sc in next 12] twice. (66 sts: 21 per end, 12 per side)
Each round adds 3 sts to each curved end, so Rnd n has 24 + 6n sts. The 12 side sts stay the same, which keeps the stadium shape and the straight long sides.
Wall, Basketweave Section (Color A)
Rnd 8: Sc in BLO of each st around. (66 sts) This creates a crisp fold line where the wall rises.
Rnd 9: Ch 2 (does not count), dc in each st around. (66 sts)
Rnds 10–11: Ch 2, [fpdc around next 3 sts, bpdc around next 3 sts] 11 times. (66 sts)
Rnds 12–13: Ch 2, [bpdc around next 3 sts, fpdc around next 3 sts] 11 times. (66 sts)
Because 66 = 11 x 6, the 3-stitch blocks repeat evenly around and shift over to make the checkerboard weave. Fasten off Color A.
Wall, Lattice Section (Color B)
Rnd 14: Join Color B at the first st of a long side. Sc in each st around. (66 sts)
Rnd 15: Sc in first st, [ch 3, sk 2, sc in next st] 21 times, ch 3, sk 2, sl st to first sc. (22 ch-3 sps: 4 per long side, 7 per curved end)
Rnd 16: Sl st into first ch-3 sp, sc in same sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 21 times, ch 3, sl st to first sc. (22 ch-3 sps)
Each Rnd 16 sc sits in the middle of a Rnd 15 loop. That offset is what opens up the diamond lattice.
Rnd 17 (conversion round): [Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next ch-3 sp] 22 times. Join. (22 sc worked 1-per-existing sc + 44 sc in spaces = 66 sts)
Wall height before the rim should now be about 4 in (10.2 cm).
Make All Pieces
Baskets: Make 3. Each uses Color A for Rnds 1–13 and Color B for Rnds 14–18 (Rnd 18 is the rim in the Border section).
Straps: Make 2, all in Color A.
Strap (Make 2)
Ch 97.
Row 1: Sc in back bump of 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Turn. (96 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, sl st loosely in each st across. (96 sl sts) Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
The strap should measure 32 in (81.3 cm) long and about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) wide. The slip stitch row gives the braided surface.
Layout grid (strap sts counted from the bottom end):
/\ apex: last 3 sts of each strap overlapped + loop
/ \
S S free strap: sts 62-96 (32 free + 3 overlap)
|[B1]| Basket 1 (top): strap sts 49-61
| | gap: strap sts 38-48
|[B2]| Basket 2 (middle): strap sts 25-37
| | gap: strap sts 14-24
|[B3]| Basket 3 (bottom): strap sts 1-13
Joining
Method: Whipstitch with Color A and a tapestry needle.
Mark strap sts 1, 13, 25, 37, 49, and 61 on both straps. Each basket span is 13 strap sts, or 4.33 in (11.0 cm), which matches the 11 wall rounds (Rnds 8–18). Each gap is 11 strap sts, or 3.67 in (9.3 cm).
Stitch-to-stitch logic: Find the center of each curved end, which is the 11th of its 21 sts. Lay the strap vertically over that center line on the outside of the basket. Line up strap st 1 with Rnd 8 (the base fold) and strap st 13 with the Rnd 18 rim. Make one whipstitch through each strap st and into the wall, catching a post or loop in the same column of wall stitches. Sew up one long edge of the strap, then down the other, so the strap can’t twist.
Attach Basket 3 to sts 1–13 of both straps, then Basket 2 to sts 25–37, then Basket 1 to sts 49–61. Keep each basket level by checking that both straps use the same numbered sts.
Tension: Pull each whipstitch snug but not tight. The wall should stay round, without dimples at the end. Work into the brown stitches below the lattice and into the solid cream rounds, and avoid pulling the mesh loops.
Apex: Bring the free ends of the two straps together. Overlap the last 3 sts (1 in / 2.5 cm) and sew them flat. Join Color A at the top of the overlap, ch 6, and sl st back into the same spot to make a hanging loop.
Size checkpoint: The gaps between baskets should be 3.67 in (9.3 cm). From the bottom of Basket 3 to the top of Basket 1 should be 20.33 in (51.6 cm), and the whole organizer about 31 in (78.7 cm) to the apex.
Border
The border is the rim round on each basket. Work it before joining, right after Rnd 17.
Border gauge: rsc works 1 st per sc at the same 3 sts per inch, so the rim is the same length as the wall top and won’t flare or pucker.
Rnd 18 (rim): With Color B, ch 1, rsc in each st around. Join and fasten off. (66 sts: 12 per long side, 21 per curved end)
Why the math works: The base finished at 12 + 21 + 12 + 21 = 66 sts. Every wall round keeps 66: the post-stitch repeat of 6 fits 11 times, and the mesh repeat of 3 fits 22 times (4 per side, 7 per end). The conversion round puts back exactly 66 sts (22 + 44), so the rim matches the base perimeter of 22 in (55.9 cm). The finished walls stand straight.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends along same-color stitches, especially at the brown-to-cream change.
- Lightly mist each basket with water until it is damp but not wet.
- Stuff each basket firmly with a towel or a 4 in (10.2 cm) roll to shape the walls straight and the ends evenly curved.
- Pinch the Rnd 8 fold line crisp and press the base flat.
- Gently open each mesh diamond with your fingertips so the lattice looks even.
- Lay the straps flat and smooth them to 32 in (81.3 cm).
- Let everything dry completely, about 24 hours, before hanging.
- Optional: slip a plastic canvas oval into each base.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each base measures 8 3/4 x 4 3/4 in (22.2 x 12.1 cm)
- Each basket has 66 sts in every wall round
- Basketweave blocks alternate cleanly in Rnds 10–13
- 22 even mesh loops in Rnds 15 and 16
- Rim is smooth, with no flare or ripple
- Straps are centered on both curved ends and don’t twist
- Baskets hang level, with 3.67 in (9.3 cm) gaps
- Apex seam is secure, and the hanging loop takes the weight
- All ends are woven in and hidden
Troubleshooting
Base curls up like a bowl: Your tension is too tight on the increases. Go up a hook size or loosen your stitches on the curved ends.
Base ruffles: The base is too loose. Use a smaller hook and check that the increases fall only within the 3 end stitches in each repeat.
Basketweave blocks look offset: Recount to 66. Each post round needs exactly 11 repeats of 6.
Lattice collapses: Make the ch-3 loops a little tighter, and block over a firm stuffing.
Basket tilts when hanging: Check that both straps use the same strap stitch numbers for that basket, and resew if needed.
Strap stretches: Cotton relaxes under weight. Work Row 2 a little firmer, or add a second sl st row.
Care
Hand wash cold with mild soap and lay flat to dry, reshaping each basket while damp. Don’t hang the organizer to dry when it is wet.

Final Notes
Everything comes from one measurement chain: 12 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm). That gives a 66-stitch base that is 22 in (55.9 cm) around. The 11 wall rounds stand 4.33 in (11.0 cm) tall, which matches 13 strap stitches. Three of those spans and two 11-stitch gaps use 61 of the 96 strap stitches, and the rest form the hanging triangle. Check gauge on the first basket, and the rest of the organizer will come out to the sizes given here.
Happy crocheting!