This hanging wall basket is a soft, practical home for spare toilet-paper rolls, hand towels, or small bathroom extras. It is a deep half-bowl with a flat back that rests against the wall. It has a solid lower bowl, an airy diamond lattice band, and a crescent rim that rises into two horns at the back corners.
The sample is worked in one color, a calm sage green, and hangs from a natural wooden ring. The look is clean and modern. The lattice keeps it light, and the rolled crab-stitch rim gives it a neat, cord-like finish.
All instructions use US crochet terms. The finished basket measures about 10 in (25.4 cm) wide across the back, 6 in (15.2 cm) tall at the front center, and 8 in (20.3 cm) tall at the horns. With straps and ring, it hangs about 19 in (48.3 cm) from the top of the ring to the bottom of the bowl.
Construction is simple. You work a flat semicircle base in rows, then work the walls in joined rounds around it. Short-row wedges build the two horns, and a two-round border finishes the rim. Two separate straps are then sewn to the horns and folded over the ring.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 10 in (25.4 cm) wide x 6 in (15.2 cm) front height x 8 in (20.3 cm) horn height
- Hanging length: about 19 in (48.3 cm), ring included
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4), cotton
- Hook: 4.0 mm (G-6)
- Number of pieces: 3 crocheted pieces (1 basket body, 2 straps) plus 1 wooden ring
- Layout: basket at the bottom, one strap rising from each horn, straps meeting at the ring
- Base size: semicircle 10 in (25.4 cm) across the straight edge, about 5 in (12.7 cm) radius
- Size before border: 5.5 in (14.0 cm) front height, 7.7 in (19.6 cm) horn height
- Border depth: 0.4 in (1.0 cm)
Materials
Choose a firm worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds the bowl shape well and copes with a damp bathroom better than most acrylics. Avoid very soft or splitty yarns, which make the lattice droop.
- Sage green: 160 g, about 275 m
- 1 wooden ring, 2.75 in (7.0 cm) outer diameter
- 4.0 mm (G-6) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- 4 locking stitch markers
- Scissors and a measuring tape
- Rust-proof pins and a bowl or rolled towel for blocking
Quantities include a margin of about 15% for swatching and tension differences.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- inc – 2 sc in the same stitch
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- rev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- RS / WS – right side / wrong side
Special stitch – rev sc (crab stitch): Working from left to right (if you are right-handed), insert the hook into the next stitch to the right, yarn over, and pull up a loop. Yarn over again and pull through both loops. This creates the rolled, cord-like rim.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc and 18 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc worked in rows.
Make the base semicircle first and use it as your swatch. It is a real part of the basket, so no yarn is wasted.
Checkpoints:
- After base Row 10: straight edge about 4.5 in (11.4 cm).
- After base Row 22: straight edge 10 in (25.4 cm), radius about 5 in (12.7 cm).
- After body Round 8: solid wall 1.8 in (4.6 cm) high.
- After the lattice: wall 4.8 in (12.2 cm) high.
- After the rim rounds: wall 5.5 in (14.0 cm) high at the front.
- After the horn wedges: horn tips 7.7 in (19.6 cm) high.
If your piece is too big, go down 0.5 mm in hook size. If it is too small, go up 0.5 mm. If the base is more than 0.5 in (1.3 cm) off at Row 22, every later measurement will be off too, so fix it at this stage.
Basket Base (Semicircle)
Worked in turned rows. Move each increase to a different spot in the repeat on alternate rows so the curve stays round instead of forming points.
Row 1: Make a magic ring, ch 1, 3 sc in ring, turn. (3 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, inc in each st, turn. (6 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, (sc 1, inc) 3 times, turn. (9 sts)
Row 4: Ch 1, (sc 2, inc) 3 times, turn. (12 sts)
Rows 5–22: Keep adding 3 sts per row. On each row, work (sc to the increase, inc) 3 times, with 1 more plain sc in each repeat than on the row before. Each row’s total is 3 times its row number.
Key counts:
– Row 5: 15 sts
– Row 10: 30 sts
– Row 15: 45 sts
– Row 20: 60 sts
– Row 22: (sc 20, inc) 3 times = 66 sts
Pull the magic ring tightly closed. Do not fasten off.
Basket Body
Worked in joined rounds with RS facing, without turning.
Round 1 (set-up / conversion): Ch 1, sc in each of the 66 sts of Row 22. Then work along the straight edge, which has 22 row ends on each side of the magic ring. Work 20 sc across each set of 22 row ends, skipping the 6th and 17th row ends on each side. Join with sl st to the first sc. Count: (66 sc worked 1 per stitch) + (40 sc added along the straight edge) = 106 sts.
Place a marker in the first and last st of the 66-st curved section. These mark the back corners. The 40 sts between the markers are the back, and the 66 sts are the front.
Round 2 (growth): Ch 1. On the front, work (sc 10, inc) 6 times. On the back, sc 40. Join. (112 sts: 72 front, 40 back)
Rounds 3–8: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (112 sts)
Checkpoint: the solid wall is 1.8 in (4.6 cm) high, and the base has started curving up into a bowl.
Diamond Lattice Band
The 112 sts divide evenly into 28 groups of 4: 18 groups across the front (72 sts) and 10 across the back (40 sts).
Lattice Round 1: Ch 1, sc in first st, *ch 5, sk 3 sts, sc in next st; repeat from * 26 more times, ch 5, sk 3 sts, join with sl st to first sc. (28 ch-5 loops) Sl st into the next 3 ch to reach the center of the first loop.
Lattice Round 2: Ch 1, sc in same loop, *ch 5, sc in next loop; repeat from * 26 more times, ch 5, join to first sc. (28 ch-5 loops) Sl st into the next 3 ch.
Lattice Rounds 3–4: Ch 1, sc in same loop, *ch 6, sc in next loop; repeat from * 26 more times, ch 6, join. (28 ch-6 loops) At the end of Round 3 only, sl st into the next 3 ch.
The longer ch-6 loops let the bowl bulge outward, which gives the finished basket its rounded profile.
Checkpoint: wall height 4.8 in (12.2 cm). The diamonds should sit open and even, about 1 in (2.5 cm) across.
Rim Rounds
Rim Round 1 (conversion): Ch 1, *sc in sc, 3 sc in next ch-6 loop; repeat from * around, join. Count: (28 sc worked 1 per existing sc) + (84 sc added, 3 in each of 28 loops) = 112 sts.
Only 3 sc go into each ch-6 loop, so the rim draws in slightly and the opening ends up a little narrower than the belly.
Rim Rounds 2–3: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (112 sts) Fasten off.
Lay the basket with its back flat. Move your two corner markers to the back corners, counting 40 sts across the back and 72 across the front.
Checkpoint: front wall height 5.5 in (14.0 cm).
Horn Wedges (make 2)
Each wedge is worked in turned short rows over 24 sts centered on one back corner, with 12 sts on the back and 12 sts on the front side.
Row 1: With RS facing, join yarn in the 12th st before the corner marker. Ch 1, sc in the same st and in the next 23 sts, turn. (24 sts)
Rows 2–10: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog, turn. Each row is 2 sts shorter than the one before.
Row-by-row counts:
– Row 2: 22 sts
– Row 3: 20 sts
– Row 4: 18 sts
– Row 5: 16 sts
– Row 6: 14 sts
– Row 7: 12 sts
– Row 8: 10 sts
– Row 9: 8 sts
– Row 10: 6 sts
Fasten off. Repeat at the second back corner.
The free rim now has 48 sts across the front (72 − 24) and 16 sts across the back (40 − 24).
Checkpoint: horn tips are 7.7 in (19.6 cm) high, and each tip is 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide across the top.
Make All Pieces
This basket has 3 crocheted pieces, all in sage green:
- Basket body (base, walls, lattice, horns): 1 piece, about 120 g
- Straps: 2 pieces, about 10 g each
Straps (make 2)
Row 1: Ch 9, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining ch, turn. (8 sts)
Rows 2–4: Ch 1, sc in each st, turn. (8 sts)
Row 5: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 4, sc2tog, turn. (6 sts)
Rows 6–50: Ch 1, sc in each st, turn. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a 16 in (40.6 cm) tail.
Each strap is 11.1 in (28.2 cm) long and 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide, flaring to 2 in (5.1 cm) at the bottom.
Layout
[ ring ]
/ \
[strap 1] [strap 2]
| |
[horn L] ~~~ [horn R]
\ basket /
\________/
Joining
Method: Whipstitch with the yarn tail, then bind the straps with a yarn wrap at the ring.
Stitch-to-stitch logic: Strap Row 5 is the first 6-st row. Place it on the outside of the basket, directly over horn Row 10, which also has 6 sts. Whipstitch the 6 strap sts to the 6 sts of Row 10, one to one. Then lay the 8-st flare (strap Rows 1–4) flat down the outside of the horn. Strap Row 4 sits over horn Row 9 (8 sts), and strap Rows 3–1 sit over horn Rows 8–6 (10, 12, and 14 sts). This keeps the flare centered inside the wider wedge. Tack down the side edges of the flare with small running stitches.
At the ring: Fold the top 7 rows of each strap, 1.6 in (4.1 cm), over the ring toward the back. Whipstitch each strap end to itself. Slide the two folded straps together so they sit side by side on the ring. Take a 24 in (61.0 cm) length of yarn and wrap it tightly 10 times around both straps just below the ring, then secure it.
Tension: Make the whipstitches firm but not tight enough to pucker. The strap should lie flat against the horn without rippling.
Size checkpoint: Each strap should have 8.7 in (22.1 cm) of free length between the horn and the ring. Hold the basket up by the ring. Both straps should hang evenly, and the back should lie flat.
Border
Border gauge: Same as the body, 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm). Work 1 sc in each rim stitch and 1 sc in each row end along the horn edges.
Border Round 1: With RS facing, join yarn at the center of the front rim. Ch 1, sc around the full top edge, join. Counts by section:
– Front rim: 48 sts
– Each horn: 10 row ends up the side + 6 sts across the tip + 10 row ends down the other side = 26 sts
– Back rim: 16 sts
Total: 48 + 26 + 16 + 26 = 116 sts. Where the strap overlaps the horn, work through both layers.
Border Round 2: Ch 1, rev sc in each st around, join. (116 sts) Fasten off.
Why the math works: The rim stitches are worked 1 to 1, so the front and back keep their exact width. The horn sides slant, so each row end is slightly longer than one row is tall. That means 1 sc per row end fills the edge without flaring or pulling. No extra stitches are added at the tips because the crab stitch rounds the points naturally.
The border adds 0.4 in (1.0 cm), bringing the front to about 6 in (15.2 cm) and the horns to about 8 in (20.3 cm).
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends securely, especially at the strap joins.
- Soak the basket in cool water and gently squeeze out the excess. Do not wring it.
- Roll it in a towel to remove more water.
- Stuff the bowl with a towel or set it over an upturned bowl to shape the belly.
- Pin the back flat and pin the horns upright.
- Open each lattice diamond with your fingers so they are all even.
- Lay the straps flat and straight.
- Let it dry completely, for at least 24 hours.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- The straight back edge measures 10 in (25.4 cm).
- The front is about 6 in (15.2 cm) tall and the horns about 8 in (20.3 cm).
- Every lattice round has all 28 loops.
- Both horns are the same height and shape.
- The straps are the same length and sewn centered on each horn.
- The ring wrap is tight and does not slide.
- The basket hangs level and the back lies flat.
Troubleshooting
- Base ruffles: You are increasing too much for your tension. Go down a hook size and check that you add exactly 3 sts per row.
- Base cups upward: Your tension is too tight. Go up a hook size.
- Lattice droops: Use a firmer cotton, or shorten all the loops to ch 5.
- Horns flop: Block over a stuffed towel and keep the border stitches firm.
- Basket tilts forward: Shorten both folds at the ring by the same amount, or add a few more tacking stitches along the strap flares.
- Count is off after Rim Round 1: Make sure you have exactly 28 loops. Place a marker every 5 loops and recount.
Care
Hand wash in cool water and dry flat over a bowl. If you can, remove the wooden ring before washing; if not, keep it as dry as possible.
Final Notes
Here is the measurement chain. A gauge of 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm) gives a base 10 in (25.4 cm) across. The base sets up 112 body stitches, which carry through the solid wall, the lattice, and the rim. The horns narrow from 24 stitches to 6, and the border adds a 116-stitch rolled edge. The straps lift the basket to a hanging length of about 19 in (48.3 cm). If you check each step as you go, the finished basket will match.
Happy crocheting!