A hand touching a red and black floral lace bedspread on a bed with matching pillows in a bright bedroom.

Crimson Dahlia Bedspread Crochet Pattern

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The Crimson Dahlia Bedspread is a bold, romantic blanket made from square motifs. Each motif has a raised, layered red dahlia on an open black mesh background. Every flower has a black center ringed with small red bobbles, and four layers of pointed petals around it.

The palette uses just two colors: a bright true red and a deep black. The contrast makes each flower stand out. The black mesh between the blooms gives the blanket a lacy, almost stained-glass look that works for the holidays and all year.

This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished bedspread measures 67 x 83 in (170.2 x 210.8 cm), which fits over the top of a full or queen bed.

You work each flower in the round from the center out, then square it off with black chain mesh and a final single crochet round. You make 80 identical motifs, join them with a flat slip stitch seam, and finish with a three-round black scalloped border.

Finished Size and Construction

  • Finished size: 67 x 83 in (170.2 x 210.8 cm)
  • Skill level: Intermediate
  • Terminology: US crochet terms
  • Yarn weight: Worsted (#4)
  • Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
  • Number of pieces: 80 identical square motifs
  • Layout: 8 motifs wide x 10 motifs long
  • Motif size: 8 x 8 in (20.3 x 20.3 cm)
  • Size before border: 64 x 80 in (162.6 x 203.2 cm)
  • Border depth: 1.5 in (3.8 cm) on each side

Materials

Choose a smooth worsted-weight yarn with crisp stitch definition. Acrylic or an acrylic-wool blend holds the petals up well and washes easily. Avoid fuzzy yarns, which blur the petal outlines. The amounts below assume about 200 m per 100 g.

  • Red: 1,600 g (about 3,200 m), for the bobbles and all petal layers
  • Black: 1,100 g (about 2,200 m), for the centers, mesh, joining and border

These amounts include a margin of about 10% for gauge differences and test pieces. Buy each color from one dye lot.

Tools:
– 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
– Locking stitch markers
– Tapestry needle
– Measuring tape
– Blocking mats and rust-proof pins
– Spray bottle or steamer

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch – chain
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • sc – single crochet
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • dc – double crochet
  • tr – treble crochet
  • BLO – back loop only
  • sp(s) – space(s)
  • st(s) – stitch(es)

Bobble: Yarn over, insert the hook in the stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through 2 loops. Repeat 3 more times in the same stitch (5 loops on the hook). Yarn over and pull through all 5 loops.

Post sc (from behind): Insert the hook from the back around the post of the stitch named, then finish the sc. This anchors each new petal base behind the layer in front of it.

Gauge and Checkpoints

Make and block one full motif before you start the rest.

  • After Round 3 (center): 1.5 in (3.8 cm) across
  • After Round 11 (flower): 6 in (15.2 cm) across, measured tip to tip
  • After Round 15 (motif): 8 x 8 in (20.3 x 20.3 cm), blocked
  • Round 15 edge gauge: 12 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm), or 3 sc = 1 in (2.5 cm)

If your motif is more than 0.25 in (0.6 cm) too big, go down 0.5 mm in hook size. If it is more than 0.25 in (0.6 cm) too small, go up 0.5 mm. All motifs must match, because the border math depends on exactly 24 sc per motif side.

A red crocheted flower with black center details surrounded by black lace netting background.

Motif Pattern

Make 80. Every motif is the same.

Flower Center

Round 1 (black): Make a magic ring, ch 1, and work 8 sc in the ring. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (8 sc)

Round 2 (red): Join red in any st and ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st). [Bobble in next st, ch 1] 8 times. Join to the top of the first bobble. Fasten off. (8 bobbles, 8 ch-1 sps)

Round 3 (black): Join black in the top of any bobble, ch 1. [Sc in top of bobble, sc in next ch-1 sp] 8 times. Join and fasten off. (16 sc)

Checkpoint: 1.5 in (3.8 cm). Push the bobbles to the front so they form a raised red ring around the black middle.

Petal Layers

Round 4 (red, petal base 1): Join red in the BLO of any st, ch 1. [Sc in BLO of next st, ch 3, skip next st] 8 times. Join. (8 sc, 8 ch-3 loops)

Round 5 (Layer 1): In each ch-3 loop, work (sc, hdc, dc, ch 2, dc, hdc, sc). Join. (8 petals; 48 sts and 8 ch-2 tips)

The ch-2 at the top of each petal forms the pointed tip.

Round 6 (petal base 2): Fold Layer 1 forward and work behind it. [Ch 5, post sc around next Round 4 sc] 8 times. The last post sc goes around the Round 4 sc where you started. (8 ch-5 loops)

Round 7 (Layer 2): In each ch-5 loop, work (sc, hdc, 2 dc, tr, ch 2, tr, 2 dc, hdc, sc). Join. (8 petals; 80 sts and 8 ch-2 tips)

Round 8 (petal base 3): Work behind Layer 2. Sl st to the nearest Round 6 post sc. [Ch 5, post sc around the first tr of the next Layer 2 petal, ch 5, post sc around the next Round 6 sc] 8 times. (16 ch-5 loops)

Round 9 (Layer 3): In each ch-5 loop, work (sc, hdc, dc, tr, ch 2, tr, dc, hdc, sc). Join. (16 petals; 128 sts and 16 ch-2 tips)

Round 10 (petal base 4): Work behind Layer 3. [Ch 6, post sc around the first tr of the next Layer 3 petal] 16 times. (16 ch-6 loops)

Each loop runs from the middle of one Layer 3 petal to the middle of the next, so the Layer 4 petals fall in between them.

Round 11 (Layer 4): In each ch-6 loop, work (sc, hdc, 2 dc, tr, ch 2, tr, 2 dc, hdc, sc). Join and fasten off red. (16 petals; 160 sts and 16 ch-2 tips)

Checkpoint: 6 in (15.2 cm). You now have four stacked layers with 8, 8, 16 and 16 petals.

Black Mesh and Squaring

Round 12 (black): Join black with a sc in the ch-2 tip of any Layer 4 petal. [Ch 5, sc in ch-2 tip of next petal] 15 times, then ch 5. Join to the first sc. (16 sc, 16 ch-5 loops)

Round 13: Sl st into the first loop, which becomes a corner loop. Work (dc, ch 5, dc) in it. Then work this side sequence: [ch 5, sc in next loop] 3 times, ch 5, (dc, ch 5, dc) in next loop. Work the side sequence 2 more times. Finish with [ch 5, sc in next loop] 3 times, ch 5, and join to the first dc. (20 sts: 8 dc + 12 sc; 20 ch-5 loops: 4 corner + 16 side, 4 per side)

Round 14: Sl st into the corner loop and work (dc, ch 5, dc) in it. Then work this side sequence: [ch 5, sc in next loop] 4 times, ch 5, (dc, ch 5, dc) in next corner loop. Work the side sequence 2 more times. Finish with [ch 5, sc in next loop] 4 times, ch 5, and join. (24 sts: 8 dc + 16 sc; 24 ch-5 loops: 4 corner + 20 side, 5 per side)

The dc corners rise above the sc sides, and that height difference is what squares the motif.

Round 15 (trim): Sl st into the corner loop, ch 1. Work (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in each corner loop and 4 sc in each side loop. Join and fasten off. (20 side loops x 4 sc = 80) + (4 corner loops x 4 sc = 16) = 96 sc, plus 4 corner ch-2 sps

Per side: 2 + (5 x 4 = 20) + 2 = 24 sc between the corner ch-2 sps. In this pattern, the corner ch-2 sps don’t count as stitches.

Checkpoint: 8 x 8 in (20.3 x 20.3 cm), blocked.

Make All Pieces

  • Motifs: 80
  • Red: about 18 g per motif (1,440 g total)
  • Black: about 10 g per motif (800 g total), plus about 160 g for joining and the border

Layout grid (D = Crimson Dahlia motif):

ROW 1:  D D D D D D D D
ROW 2:  D D D D D D D D
ROW 3:  D D D D D D D D
ROW 4:  D D D D D D D D
ROW 5:  D D D D D D D D
ROW 6:  D D D D D D D D
ROW 7:  D D D D D D D D
ROW 8:  D D D D D D D D
ROW 9:  D D D D D D D D
ROW 10: D D D D D D D D

Block every motif to 8 in (20.3 cm) before joining.

Joining

Method: Flat slip stitch join in black, with right sides facing up.

  1. Place two motifs side by side.
  2. Join black in the corner ch-2 sps of both motifs.
  3. Sl st through the BLO of the facing sts, one from each motif, matching stitch to stitch: 24 to 24.
  4. Finish in the next pair of corner ch-2 sps.

First join the motifs into 10 rows of 8. Then join the rows along the long seams. Where four corners meet, sl st through all four corner ch-2 sps. Don’t add stitches at the junctions.

Tension: Keep the sl sts as loose as the sc they join. Tight seams pull in and make the blanket buckle. Go up 0.5 mm for joining if you need to.

Size checkpoint: Two joined motifs measure 16 in (40.6 cm). One row of 8 measures 64 in (162.6 cm). The joined blanket measures 64 x 80 in (162.6 x 203.2 cm).

Border

Border gauge: 3 sc = 1 in (2.5 cm), the same as Round 15.

Starting counts: Short side = 8 x 24 = 192 sc. Long side = 10 x 24 = 240 sc.

Border Round 1 (black): Join black in any outer corner ch-2 sp, ch 1. Work 3 sc in each outer corner ch-2 sp and 1 sc in each sc along the sides. Work no stitch at the seam junctions. Join.

  • Short side, counting the center corner sc at each end: (192 worked 1-per-st) + (2 outer corner-group sc) + (2 corner center sc) = 196 sts
  • Long side: 240 + 2 + 2 = 244 sts
  • Total: 192 + 192 + 240 + 240 + (4 x 3) = 876 sc

Border Round 2 (mesh): Sl st to a corner center sc. In each corner center sc, work (sc, ch 3, sc). Along each side, repeat [ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc in next st]. Finish the side with ch 2, skip 2 sts, then work the next corner.

  • Short side: 194 sts between corner centers = (64 x 3) + 2, which gives 64 sc and 65 ch-2 sps
  • Long side: 242 = (80 x 3) + 2, which gives 80 sc and 81 ch-2 sps

Border Round 3 (scallops): Sl st into a corner ch-3 sp. Work 7 dc in each corner ch-3 sp. Along each side: sc in the first ch-2 sp, then [5 dc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next ch-2 sp] to the corner. Join and fasten off.

  • Short side: 65 sps = 33 sc + 32 shells
  • Long side: 81 sps = 41 sc + 40 shells

Why the math works: Round 1 makes each side one more than a multiple of 3 (196 = 1 + 3 x 65; 244 = 1 + 3 x 81). That lets Round 2 sit symmetrically between the corners and gives an odd number of spaces on every side. With an odd number of spaces, Round 3 starts and ends with a sc on each side, so every corner shell sits between two matching sc.

Final Blocking

  1. Weave in all ends along the black mesh.
  2. Lay the bedspread flat on blocking mats or on towels over a carpet.
  3. Lightly mist or steam the black mesh and border. Hold the steamer 1 in (2.5 cm) above the work.
  4. Pin the edges to 67 x 83 in (170.2 x 210.8 cm), with square corners.
  5. Pin out each scallop.
  6. Don’t press the flowers. Fluff each petal layer upright with your fingers.
  7. Let it dry completely before unpinning.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

  • All 80 motifs measure 8 in (20.3 cm) square, with 24 sc per side.
  • Every flower has 8 bobbles and four petal layers (8, 8, 16, 16).
  • Seams lie flat with no puckering.
  • Border Round 1 has 196 / 244 sts per side (876 total).
  • Border Round 3 has 32 / 40 shells per side and a 7-dc shell at each corner.
  • Finished size is 67 x 83 in (170.2 x 210.8 cm).

Troubleshooting

Petals cup: Your petal base loops are too tight. Chain the ch-5 and ch-6 loops a little looser.

Layers don’t stagger: Make sure the post sc in Rounds 8 and 10 go around the first tr of each petal.

Bobbles sink: Push them to the front before you work Round 3.

Motif isn’t square: Check that Rounds 13–14 have dc corners, then pin the corners firmly when blocking.

Seams pull in: Rejoin with a larger hook.

Border ripples or cups: Recount against 196 / 244. Extra stitches make the edge ripple, and missing stitches make it cup.

Care

Hand wash in cool water, or machine wash on a gentle cycle inside a large mesh bag. Dry flat and fluff the petals while they’re still damp.

A hand holds a red and black crocheted flower motif from a matching bedspread on an ornate bed in a bedroom.

Final Notes

Here is the full measurement chain. The center is 1.5 in (3.8 cm), the flower is 6 in (15.2 cm), and the motif is 8 in (20.3 cm) with 24 sc per side. Eight by ten motifs make 64 x 80 in (162.6 x 203.2 cm). The 1.5 in (3.8 cm) border brings the bedspread to 67 x 83 in (170.2 x 210.8 cm). Get your first motif right, and every number after it falls into place.

Happy crocheting!

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