This hanging toilet paper holder has three round basketweave baskets stacked down a tapered caramel-tan strap. A natural wooden ring at the top hangs on any door hook. Each basket holds one standard roll, so the holder keeps three spares close by without taking up shelf space.
The palette is two warm neutrals: caramel tan for the strap, the basket bases and the recessed weave blocks, and soft cream for the raised weave blocks and the twisted rope rim. The basketweave is worked in two colors at once, so the cream blocks stand out as vertical “strands” against tan blocks that show horizontal bars, just like woven rattan.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder is about 5.5 in (14.0 cm) wide and about 22.75 in (57.8 cm) long from the bottom of the strap to the top of the ring. Each basket is about 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across and 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall.
Construction is simple. You make three identical baskets in joined rounds: a flat single crochet base, then a two-color post-stitch basketweave wall, then a reverse single crochet rope rim. You crochet one flat strap in rows, edge it with one round of single crochet, wrap the narrow top tab around the wooden ring, and sew the baskets to the strap.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 5.5 in (14.0 cm) wide x 22.75 in (57.8 cm) long, including ring
- Skill level: Intermediate (post stitches and two-color carrying)
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Bulky (#5), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 6.0 mm (US J-10)
- Number of pieces: 4 crocheted pieces (3 baskets + 1 strap), plus 1 wooden ring
- Layout: 3 baskets in a single vertical column, 1.5 in (3.8 cm) apart
- Piece size: each basket 5.5 in (14.0 cm) diameter x 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall; strap 4 in (10.2 cm) wide
- Strap size before border: 4 in (10.2 cm) wide x 24 in (61.0 cm) long, including taper and tab
- Border depth: 0.25 in (0.6 cm) on each edge of the strap
Materials
Choose a smooth, firm bulky cotton or cotton blend. Cotton keeps the baskets upright and shows the post stitches crisply. Soft acrylic works, but the walls will be floppier.
- Color A, Caramel Tan: 250 g, about 300 m
- Color B, Cream: 120 g, about 145 m
- 6.0 mm (US J-10) crochet hook
- 1 wooden ring, 2.5 in (6.4 cm) outer diameter
- Tapestry needle
- 8 stitch markers
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Rust-proof pins for blocking
These quantities include a margin of about 15 percent for your gauge swatch, carried strands and seaming.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- BLO – back loop only
- FPdc – front post double crochet
- BPdc – back post double crochet
- rev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- MR – magic ring
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rep – repeat
Special stitch – reverse single crochet (rev sc): Working from left to right (right-handed), insert hook in the next stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops. This makes the twisted rope edge on each basket rim.
Color change: Work the last yarn over of the stitch before the new color with the new color. Carry the unused color along the top of the round below and work over it so it stays hidden inside the wall.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 12 sc and 12 sc rows = 4 in (10.2 cm). In the basket wall, 2 rounds of dc or post dc = 1 in (2.5 cm).
Test one piece first. Make one complete basket before anything else. It is your real gauge swatch, and it must fit a roll.
Checkpoints:
- Basket base, after Round 8: flat circle, 5 in (12.7 cm) across, 48 sts.
- Basket wall, after Round 15: 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall measured from the base edge.
- Finished basket: 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across the outside and 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall. A standard roll drops in easily.
- Strap, after Row 12: 4 in (10.2 cm) wide and 4 in (10.2 cm) long.
- Strap, after Row 51: 17 in (43.2 cm) long.
If your piece is too big: go down to a 5.5 mm hook. If too small: go up to a 6.5 mm hook. Do not add or remove stitches, because every round count must stay a multiple of 6 for the weave.
Basket (Make 3)
Work in joined rounds with the right side facing. The ch 1 or ch 2 at the start of a round does not count as a stitch.
Base
Use Color A.
Round 1: MR, ch 1, 6 sc in ring, sl st to first sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st, sl st to first sc. (12 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, [sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] 6 times, sl st to first sc. (18 sts)
Round 4: Ch 1, [sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st] 6 times, sl st to first sc. (24 sts)
Round 5: Ch 1, [sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st] 6 times, sl st to first sc. (30 sts)
Round 6: Ch 1, [sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st] 6 times, sl st to first sc. (36 sts)
Round 7: Ch 1, [sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st] 6 times, sl st to first sc. (42 sts)
Round 8: Ch 1, [sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st] 6 times, sl st to first sc. (48 sts)
Checkpoint: the base lies flat and measures 5 in (12.7 cm) across.
Wall
Round 9 (turning round): Ch 2, dc in BLO of each st around, sl st to first dc. (48 sts)
The unused front loops form a neat ridge, and the wall turns upward here.
Join Color B in the next round and carry whichever color is not in use.
Round 10: Ch 2, [FPdc around next 3 sts with Color B, BPdc around next 3 sts with Color A] 8 times, sl st to first st. (48 sts: 24 FPdc + 24 BPdc)
Round 11: Ch 2, [FPdc around next 3 FPdc with Color B, BPdc around next 3 BPdc with Color A] 8 times, sl st to first st. (48 sts)
The cream FPdc blocks now stand forward as vertical strands. The tan BPdc blocks sit back and show their horizontal bars on the right side.
Round 12: Ch 2, [BPdc around next 3 sts with Color A, FPdc around next 3 sts with Color B] 8 times, sl st to first st. (48 sts: 24 BPdc + 24 FPdc)
Round 13: Ch 2, [BPdc around next 3 BPdc with Color A, FPdc around next 3 FPdc with Color B] 8 times, sl st to first st. (48 sts)
The blocks have swapped places, so each cream block now sits over a tan block. This gives the checkerboard weave.
Rounds 14–15: Rep Rounds 10–11. (48 sts each)
Place a marker every 6 sts to keep the 8 block repeats lined up.
Checkpoint: the wall is 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall from the base edge, with 3 tiers of blocks.
Cut Color A, leaving a 24 in (61.0 cm) tail for sewing the basket to the strap. Keep it hanging on the inside of the basket.
Rope Rim
Use Color B.
Round 16: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc. (48 sts)
Round 17: Ch 1, rev sc in each st around, sl st to first rev sc. (48 sts)
Fasten off and weave in the Color B ends. The reverse sc twists into a raised cream rope that matches the photo.
Checkpoint: the finished basket is 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across and 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall.
Strap
Use Color A. Work in rows from the bottom up. The ch 1 at the start of a row does not count as a stitch.
Strap Body
Row 1: Ch 13, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (12 sts)
Rows 2–51: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (12 sts)
Checkpoint: the body measures 4 in (10.2 cm) wide x 17 in (43.2 cm) long.
Taper
Row 52: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 8 sts, sc2tog. (10 sts)
Rows 53–54: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (10 sts)
Row 55: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog. (8 sts)
Rows 56–57: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (8 sts)
Row 58: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog. (6 sts)
Rows 59–60: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (6 sts)
The taper is 9 rows long, so it is 3 in (7.6 cm) tall and narrows from 4 in (10.2 cm) to 2 in (5.1 cm).
Hanging Tab
Rows 61–72: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (6 sts)
The tab is 12 rows, so it is 4 in (10.2 cm) long. In total the strap has 72 rows and measures 24 in (61.0 cm) before the border. Do not fasten off.
Border (Strap Edging)
Border gauge: 3 sc per 1 in (2.5 cm) along both stitches and row ends. Because the row gauge (12 rows = 4 in) equals the stitch gauge (12 sts = 4 in), one sc in each row end lies flat. The border will not ruffle or pull in.
Border Round: Continue with Color A from the end of Row 72. Ch 1. Do not turn.
- Top edge (tab end): 3 sc in first st, sc in next 4 sts, 3 sc in last st. (10 sts)
- First long side: Rotate. Work 1 sc in each row end down the side, Rows 72 to 1. (72 sts)
- Bottom edge: Work into the foundation chain: 3 sc in first ch, sc in next 10 ch, 3 sc in last ch. (16 sts)
- Second long side: Work 1 sc in each row end up the side, Rows 1 to 72. (72 sts)
Sl st to first sc. Total: 10 + 72 + 16 + 72 = 170 sts.
Why the math works: The top edge has 6 stitches. The two corner stitches each become 3 sc, so you get 4 + (2 x 3) = 10. The bottom edge has 12 stitches, so you get 10 + (2 x 3) = 16. Each long side gets exactly one sc per row, and there are 72 rows. The corner stitches are counted once, in the top and bottom edges, and never again on the sides.
The border adds 0.25 in (0.6 cm) to each edge. The strap body becomes 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide, and the strap is 24.5 in (62.2 cm) long in total. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Assembly
Attach the Ring
- Lay the strap right side up.
- Pass the tab through the wooden ring from front to back.
- Fold the tab down behind the taper so the ring sits snugly in the fold.
- Pin the tab end to the back of the taper. About 2.5 in (6.4 cm) of tab lies flat against the taper back.
- Whipstitch around the tab edge with Color A. Sew through the back loops only so no stitches show on the front.
Measured from the bottom of the strap, the ring’s lower edge now sits at about 20.25 in (51.4 cm).
Position the Baskets
Measure up from the bottom edge of the bordered strap and place a pin at each mark:
- Bottom basket: base at 0.5 in (1.3 cm), rim at 4.75 in (12.1 cm)
- Middle basket: base at 6.25 in (15.9 cm), rim at 10.5 in (26.7 cm)
- Top basket: base at 12 in (30.5 cm), rim at 16.25 in (41.3 cm)
That leaves 1.5 in (3.8 cm) of strap visible between baskets and 1 in (2.5 cm) of strap above the top basket before the taper begins.
Sew the Baskets
- Center each basket on the strap. Put the color-change seam at the back, so the join is hidden.
- Using the Color A tail, whipstitch the back 12 sts of Round 16 to the strap. Keep the seam just under the rope rim.
- Whipstitch the back 12 sts of Round 8 (the base edge ridge) to the strap.
- Run a vertical line of stitches up the center back of the wall, from base to rim, to keep the basket from tipping forward.
Keep tension firm but even. The strap should stay flat, without puckering behind the basket.
Checkpoint: the holder hangs straight, measures 5.5 in (14.0 cm) at its widest, and is about 22.75 in (57.8 cm) long, including the ring.
Final Blocking
- Spray the strap lightly with water until it is damp but not soaked.
- Pin the strap flat to 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide. Pin the edges straight, and pin the taper symmetrically.
- Stuff each basket firmly with a toilet paper roll or a rolled towel wrapped in plastic.
- Shape the basket walls round and upright. Pinch the rope rim so the twist sits evenly.
- Mist the baskets lightly.
- Let everything dry completely, at least 12 hours.
- Remove the pins and any stuffing.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each basket has 48 sts in every round from Round 8 to Round 17.
- Each basket has 8 cream blocks and 8 tan blocks per tier, and 3 tiers in a clean checkerboard.
- No carried strands show on the right side.
- The rope rims are evenly twisted and match on all three baskets.
- The strap measures 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide and the border lies flat.
- The basket spacing is 1.5 in (3.8 cm), and all three baskets are centered.
- The ring is secure and the tab seam is invisible from the front.
- All ends are woven in.
Troubleshooting
The base cups or ruffles. Check your counts against each round. A cupping base usually means a missed increase, and a ruffled base means an extra one. Hook size may also need adjusting.
The weave blocks drift sideways. You have probably worked into the ch 2 or skipped the first stitch. Use the markers every 6 sts and recount at every marker.
Carried yarn peeks through. Hold the carried strand at the back of the work. Also make sure it is not pulled so tight that it puckers the wall.
The rim flares. Work the rev sc more tightly, or use a hook one size smaller for Round 17 only.
The basket tips forward. Add the vertical center-back seam, and sew the base ridge firmly to the strap.
The strap curls. Block it flat. Check that the border has exactly 1 sc per row end.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, press out the water in a towel, and dry flat with each basket reshaped over a roll. Remove the wooden ring first, or keep it dry and wipe it clean.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is short and checkable at every step. Each basket starts as a 48-stitch base, 5 in (12.7 cm) across, then gets a 3.5 in (8.9 cm) basketweave wall and rope rim, finishing 5.5 in (14.0 cm) wide and 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall. The strap is 12 sts (4 in / 10.2 cm) wide and 72 rows long. With a 170-stitch border it becomes 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide. Three baskets spaced 1.5 in (3.8 cm) apart, plus the taper and ring, give a holder 22.75 in (57.8 cm) long. If your basket matches the checkpoints, the rest will fall into place.
Happy crocheting!