This hanging basket stacks three round baskets on two sturdy red cords, so it can hang from a single peg and hold three standard toilet rolls. It works just as well for hand towels, washcloths, or small toiletries.
The palette is a deep cranberry red with a warm cream accent. Each basket wall shows two rounds of cream shell fans and two rounds of cream bobbles, and the top rim is a row of closely packed cream bobbles. The style is cottage-classic, and the cotton yarn gives crisp stitch definition and holds its shape well.
The pattern is written in US crochet terms. Each basket measures 5.25 in (13.3 cm) across the base and 3 in (7.6 cm) tall. The assembled hanger is about 23.5 in (59.7 cm) long and 5.5 in (14.0 cm) wide.
Construction is simple. You crochet a flat single-crochet circle for each base, then turn up the wall with a back-loop round and work the shell and bobble rounds in joined rounds. Next you make two firm cords, sew them to opposite sides of all three baskets, and overlap their ends at the top to form the hanging point.
Finished Size and Construction
- Basket size: 5.25 in (13.3 cm) diameter × 3 in (7.6 cm) tall
- Assembled hanger: about 23.5 in (59.7 cm) long × 5.5 in (14.0 cm) wide
- Skill level: Intermediate (two-color bobble round, shell fill rounds)
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
- Hook: 4.5 mm (US 7)
- Number of pieces: 5 (3 baskets, 2 straps)
- Layout: 3 baskets stacked vertically, each 6 in (15.2 cm) from the next base to base, with a 3 in (7.6 cm) gap between them
- Piece size: each basket 5.25 in (13.3 cm) × 3 in (7.6 cm); each strap 25 in (63.5 cm) × 0.5 in (1.3 cm)
- Wall height before border: 2.6 in (6.6 cm)
- Border (bobble rim) depth: 0.4 in (1.0 cm)
Materials
Use a smooth, firm cotton or cotton blend. Acrylic will stretch under the weight of the rolls, so avoid it for the straps.
- Color A, cranberry red: 120 g, about 216 m (236 yd)
- Color B, cream: 60 g, about 108 m (118 yd)
Both quantities include a margin of roughly 20–30% for gauge swatches and for carrying yarn up the inside of the wall.
Tools
– 4.5 mm (US 7) crochet hook
– 6 stitch markers
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– Measuring tape
– Rust-proof pins and a blocking mat
– A round container about 5 in (12.7 cm) wide for blocking
– A wall peg or hook for hanging
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet
- BLO – back loop only
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sk – skip
- rep – repeat
Special stitch: Bobble. Work this in one stitch: (yo, insert hook in the st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and draw through 2 loops) 4 times; you now have 5 loops on the hook. Yo and draw through all 5 loops. A bobble counts as 1 stitch.
Color change: Work the last yo of the join (or of the stitch before the change) with the new color.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc and 18 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc.
Make one full basket before starting the others. Everything else depends on it: the straps are sized to the basket height and the gaps are sized to the rolls.
Checkpoints
– After Rnd 5 (30 sts): 2.4 in (6.1 cm) across
– After Rnd 8 (48 sts): 3.8 in (9.7 cm) across
– After Rnd 11 (66 sts): 5.25 in (13.3 cm) across
– After Rnd 14: wall about 1.1 in (2.8 cm) tall
– After Rnd 18: wall 2.6 in (6.6 cm) tall
– After Rnd 19: wall 3 in (7.6 cm) tall
Too big? Go down to a 4 mm (US G/6) hook. Too small? Go up to a 5 mm (US H/8) hook. Base cupping? Your tension is too tight; loosen up or go up a hook size. Base rippling? Your tension is too loose; go down a hook size.
A standard toilet roll is about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide, so a 5.25 in (13.3 cm) base gives enough room to drop a roll in and lift it out.
Basket (make 3)
Work in joined rounds. Do not turn. Join each round with a sl st to the first st, and ch 1 to begin the next unless told otherwise. The ch 1 does not count as a stitch.
Base
With A, make a magic ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: sc in next st, 2 sc in next st around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st around. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st around. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st around. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st around. (42 sts)
Rnd 8: sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st around. (48 sts)
Rnd 9: sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st around. (54 sts)
Rnd 10: sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st around. (60 sts)
Rnd 11: sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in next st around. (66 sts)
Check the base: it should lie flat and measure 5.25 in (13.3 cm) across.
Wall
From here on, the wall keeps 66 sts in every round. The number 66 divides evenly by 6 (shells), 3 (middle bobbles), and 2 (rim bobbles).
Rnd 12 (turning round): With A, sc in BLO of each st around. (66 sts) The unused front loops make a crisp fold, and the wall starts to rise.
Change to B on the join.
Rnd 13 (shell round): With B, ch 1, sc in same st as join, sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st; rep from * 9 more times, then sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, sl st to first sc. (11 shells and 11 sc = 66 sts) Each repeat uses exactly 6 sts of Rnd 12.
Change to A on the join.
Rnd 14 (fill round): With A, ch 4 (counts as tr), dc in next dc, hdc in next dc, sc in next dc, hdc in next dc, dc in next dc, tr in next sc; rep from * around, ending with the last dc before the ch-4, then sl st to top of ch-4. (11 tr + 22 dc + 22 hdc + 11 sc = 66 sts) The tall stitches fill the red valleys between the fans, so the top of the round is level again.
Rnd 15 (bobble round): Join B on the last yo of the join, but keep A attached. Carry the color you are not using along the top of the round and work over it. Ch 1, with A sc in next st, with B bobble in next st, with A sc in next st; rep from * around. (22 bobbles + 44 sc = 66 sts) As you work, push each bobble to the outside of the basket. Drop B and leave it hanging on the inside.
Rnd 16: With A, sc in each st around, working each bobble as 1 st. (66 sts)
Rnd 17 (shell round): Change to B on the join and work as Rnd 13. (11 shells and 11 sc = 66 sts)
Rnd 18 (fill round): Change to A on the join and work as Rnd 14. (66 sts) Change to B on the final join, then fasten off A and weave its end into the wall on the inside.
The wall should now measure 2.6 in (6.6 cm) from the fold. Continue with the Border (Rnd 19) before you join any pieces.
Make All Pieces
Baskets: Make 3. Each basket uses about 24 g of A and 17 g of B.
Straps (make 2): With A, ch 101.
Row 1: Sc in back bump of 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (100 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sl st in each sc across, keeping your stitches snug but not tight. (100 sl sts)
Fasten off. Each strap should measure 25 in (63.5 cm) long and 0.5 in (1.3 cm) wide. At gauge, 4 sts = 1 in (2.5 cm). Each strap uses about 9 g of A.
Layout grid (strap stitch numbers counted from the bottom end):
/\ apex: strap sts 97-100 overlapped, 1 in (2.5 cm)
/ \ diagonals: sts 61-96, 9 in (22.9 cm)
[ B3 ] top basket: sts 49-60, 3 in (7.6 cm)
| | gap: sts 37-48, 3 in (7.6 cm)
[ B2 ] middle basket: sts 25-36, 3 in (7.6 cm)
| | gap: sts 13-24, 3 in (7.6 cm)
[ B1 ] bottom basket: sts 1-12, 3 in (7.6 cm)
Joining
Method: Whipstitch with A and a tapestry needle.
Marking: On each basket, place a marker in Rnd 19 directly above the round joins (this is stitch 1). Place a second marker in stitch 34, exactly 33 sts away, so it sits on the opposite side. Put one strap over the join column; this hides the color-change jog.
Stitch-to-stitch logic: Each basket section of the strap is 12 sts long, and the basket wall is 8 rounds tall (Rnds 12–19). That is a 3:2 ratio. Sew 3 strap stitches to every 2 wall rounds along both long edges of the strap. The bottom of each strap section lines up with the fold at Rnd 12, and the top lines up with the top of the rim bobbles.
Order:
1. Pin strap sts 1–12 to the bottom basket at one marker. Pin the second strap the same way at the opposite marker.
2. Skip 12 sts (the gap), then pin sts 25–36 to the middle basket.
3. Skip 12 sts, then pin sts 49–60 to the top basket.
4. Check that all three baskets hang level and face the same way before sewing.
5. Sew down both long edges of every pinned section.
6. Bring the free ends together above the top basket. Overlap sts 97–100 of both straps and sew through both layers all the way around the overlap.
Tension: Pull each whipstitch just snug enough to close the gap. Over-tight stitches pucker the wall and pull the shells out of line.
Size checkpoint: Hold the hanger up by the apex. From the top of the bottom basket’s rim to the base of the middle basket should measure 3 in (7.6 cm). From the apex to the bottom of the lowest basket should measure about 23.5 in (59.7 cm).
Border
The border is the cream bobble rim, Rnd 19. Work it on each basket right after Rnd 18 and before you do any joining. The checkpoint numbers above include it.
Border gauge: 2 sts per bobble repeat = 0.5 in (1.3 cm). This gives 33 bobbles around a 16.5 in (41.9 cm) circumference.
Rnd 19 (rim): With B, ch 1, bobble in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, then sl st to top of first bobble. (33 bobbles + 33 sc = 66 sts)
Fasten off and weave in all ends on the inside of the wall.
Why the math works: The border starts on exactly 66 stitches, the same count as every wall round. One bobble plus one sc uses 2 stitches, and 66 ÷ 2 = 33 repeats, so the rim closes evenly with no extra or missing stitches. The border adds 0.4 in (1.0 cm) of height: 2.6 in (6.6 cm) + 0.4 in (1.0 cm) = 3 in (7.6 cm).
Final Blocking
- Lightly spray the assembled hanger with cool water until it is evenly damp.
- Slide the round container into each basket in turn and press the base flat against its bottom.
- Straighten the shell fans with your fingers so each one sits directly above the fill stitches.
- Push every bobble to the outside of the basket.
- Lay the hanger flat on the mat. Pin the straps straight and the gaps at 3 in (7.6 cm).
- Let everything dry completely, about 12–24 hours.
- Hang the holder and load the rolls only once it is fully dry.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each base lies flat and measures 5.25 in (13.3 cm).
- Each wall measures 3 in (7.6 cm) and has 66 sts in every round.
- Every basket has 11 shells in each shell round.
- There are 22 bobbles in the middle round and 33 in the rim.
- Each strap measures 25 in (63.5 cm).
- The straps sit directly opposite each other on all three baskets.
- Each gap measures 3 in (7.6 cm).
- The apex overlap is secure and does not show loose ends.
- The baskets hang level when loaded.
Troubleshooting
Shells lean or drift around the wall: Count to the 6-stitch repeat and confirm that each shell sits in the 3rd st after a sc.
Fill round looks wavy: Make sure the tr lands in the sc between shells, not in a dc.
Bobbles sit on the inside: Push them outward as you work. Blocking will set them.
Red shows through the cream bobbles: Keep the carried strand at the back of the work and work over it snugly.
Straps stretch under the rolls: Use a firmer tension on Row 2, or go down a hook size for the straps only.
Baskets tilt: Re-check that the markers are exactly 33 sts apart.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, reshape, and dry flat. Do not tumble dry; the heat can shrink and stiffen the cotton.
Final Notes
The measurement chain runs in one direction. Gauge of 16 sc per 4 in (10.2 cm) gives a 66-stitch base of 5.25 in (13.3 cm). Those 66 stitches carry through every wall round, so the wall reaches 2.6 in (6.6 cm) before the rim and 3 in (7.6 cm) after it. That same gauge makes each 100-stitch strap 25 in (63.5 cm), split into three 3 in (7.6 cm) basket sections, two 3 in (7.6 cm) gaps, a 9 in (22.9 cm) diagonal, and a 1 in (2.5 cm) overlap. If you check each link in that chain, the finished hanger will measure about 23.5 in (59.7 cm) and hang level.
Happy crocheting!