This little letter N keychain pairs a warm rust letter with a small spray of daisies down the left stem. The letter is worked in back-loop single crochet. The ridges run lengthwise on both stems and along the slant of the diagonal, so the letter looks neat and slightly woven.
The colors are soft and earthy: rust for the letter, cream for the daisy petals, mustard yellow for the centers, and olive green for the leaves. A gold-tone split ring on a short chain hangs from the top of the left stem. You can use it on keys, a zipper pull, or a tote bag handle.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished keychain measures 4 in (10.2 cm) tall and 3.1 in (7.9 cm) wide, not counting the ring.
The whole piece is flat. You make two straight stem strips and one slanted diagonal strip, seam them into an N, and work one round of single crochet around the whole outline. Then you sew three daisies and five leaves down the left stem.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 4 in (10.2 cm) x 3.1 in (7.9 cm)
- Skill level: Intermediate (sc3tog shaping, seaming, small appliqué)
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: DK / light worsted (#3) cotton
- Hooks: 3.25 mm (US D/3) for the letter; 2.25 mm (US B/1) for the appliqués
- Number of pieces: 3 letter pieces (2 stems, 1 diagonal), plus 3 daisies and 5 leaves
- Layout: stem, diagonal, stem, side by side
- Stem size: 3.6 in (9.1 cm) x 1 in (2.5 cm) each
- Diagonal size: 1 in (2.5 cm) wide; long edges 1.6 in (4.1 cm), slanted ends 2.2 in (5.6 cm)
- Size before border: 3.6 in (9.1 cm) x 2.7 in (6.9 cm)
- Border depth: 0.2 in (0.5 cm) on every edge
Materials
Choose a smooth combed or mercerized DK cotton. Cotton shows the ridges clearly, keeps the corners sharp, and holds up well on a keyring. Avoid fuzzy or stretchy yarns, because the narrow strips will lose their shape.
Yarn:
- Rust (letter): 7 g / 16 m
- Cream (petals): 3 g / 7 m
- Mustard yellow (centers): 1 g / 3 m
- Olive green (leaves): 2 g / 5 m
These quantities include a small margin for swatching and sewing.
Tools:
- 3.25 mm (US D/3) and 2.25 mm (US B/1) hooks
- Tapestry needle
- 1 in (2.5 cm) gold-tone split key ring with a 0.7 in (1.8 cm) chain
- One 6–8 mm jump ring and two pairs of flat pliers
- Rustproof pins, a grid blocking mat, and a spray bottle
- Stitch markers and a ruler
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- hdc: half double crochet
- dc: double crochet
- BLO: back loop only
- sc2tog: single crochet 2 together
- st(s): stitch(es)
- RS: right side
Special stitch: sc3tog BLO. Insert your hook in the back loop of the next st, yarn over, and pull up a loop. Do this 3 times, then yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on the hook. This uses 3 sts and makes 1.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 5 sc BLO and 5 rows = 1 in (2.5 cm) with the 3.25 mm hook.
Make one stem first and use it as your test piece. Measure it before you go on.
- Checkpoint 1, one stem: 3.6 in (9.1 cm) x 1 in (2.5 cm).
- Checkpoint 2, diagonal: long edges about 1.6 in (4.1 cm), slanted ends about 2.2 in (5.6 cm).
- Checkpoint 3, assembled letter: 3.6 in (9.1 cm) x 2.7 in (6.9 cm).
- Checkpoint 4, after the border: 4 in (10.2 cm) x 3.1 in (7.9 cm).
If your stem is too long, go down half a hook size. If it is too short, go up half a size. If the length is right but the strip is too wide, your rows are too tall. Keep the turning chain snug and work your loops close to the hook shaft.

Letter Stems (Make 2)
Use rust and the 3.25 mm hook. Leave a 6 in (15.2 cm) starting tail.
Row 1: Ch 19. Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (18 sc)
Rows 2–5: Ch 1, turn, sc BLO in each st across. (18 sc)
Fasten off. Leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail on one stem for seaming.
Each stem has two long edges of 18 sts each: the foundation edge and the Row 5 edge. Each short end has 5 row-ends. The ridges run along the length of the strip, which gives the stems their vertical lines.
Check: 3.6 in (9.1 cm) x 1 in (2.5 cm).
Diagonal Strip (Make 1)
Use rust and the 3.25 mm hook. This piece is a parallelogram. Every row adds 2 sts at one end and removes 2 at the other, so the count stays at 8 while the strip shifts 2 sts per row. The shift is what slants the ends.
Row 1: Ch 9. Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (8 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Work 3 sc BLO in the first st, sc BLO in the next 4 sts, then sc3tog BLO over the last 3 sts. (3 + 4 + 1 = 8 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc3tog BLO over the first 3 sts, sc BLO in the next 4 sts, then 3 sc BLO in the last st. (1 + 4 + 3 = 8 sc)
Row 4: Repeat Row 2. (8 sc)
Row 5: Repeat Row 3. (8 sc)
Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail.
The 3-sc groups always land on the same end of the strip, so it leans one way instead of zigzagging. Both faces show ridges, so either face can be the right side. If the N leans the wrong way, just flip the strip over.
Check: 1 in (2.5 cm) across the rows; long edges 1.6 in (4.1 cm); ends 2.2 in (5.6 cm).
Assembling the Letter
- Lay both stems upright, with their foundation edges facing out and their Row 5 edges facing each other.
- Place the diagonal between them, running from upper left to lower right, with its slanted ends standing vertical.
- Line up the top corner of the diagonal’s left end with the top of the left stem. Line up the bottom corner of its right end with the bottom of the right stem.
- The stems should sit about 0.7 in (1.8 cm) apart, for a total width of 2.7 in (6.9 cm).
Stitch-to-stitch logic: Each slanted end is 2.2 in (5.6 cm) long, which equals 11 stem sts at 5 sts per inch. Match each of the 5 row-ends to 2 stem sts. Then add 1 more stem st at the shaped corner: 5 x 2 + 1 = 11.
- Left seam: Sew the diagonal to the top 11 sts of the left stem’s Row 5 edge. That leaves 7 sts exposed below (18 – 11 = 7).
- Right seam: Sew the diagonal to the bottom 11 sts of the right stem’s Row 5 edge. That leaves 7 sts exposed above.
Pin the pieces, then whipstitch them together with the rust tail. Keep the tension snug but flat. Seams that are too tight make the letter cup, and seams that are too loose gape once the border is on.
Check: 3.6 in (9.1 cm) x 2.7 in (6.9 cm), lying flat.
Border
Border gauge: One round of sc at 5 sts per inch adds 0.2 in (0.5 cm) to every edge.
Use rust and the 3.25 mm hook, with the RS facing. Work counterclockwise. Join with an sc in the first foundation st at the top-left corner of the left stem. This join counts as the first sc of that corner’s 3-sc group.
Rnd 1:
- Left stem, outer edge (18 sts): 3 sc in the first st, sc in the next 16 sts, 3 sc in the last st. (22 sc)
- Left stem, bottom (5 row-ends): Sc in each row-end. (5 sc)
- Left stem, lower inner edge (7 sts): 3 sc in the first st, sc in the next 5 sts. (8 sc)
- Bottom notch: Sc2tog over the last left-stem st and the first st of the diagonal. (1 sc)
- Diagonal, lower edge (7 remaining sts): Sc in the next 6 sts, 2 sc in the last st. (8 sc)
- Right stem, bottom (5 row-ends): Sc in each row-end. (5 sc)
- Right stem, outer edge (18 sts): 3 sc in the first st, sc in the next 16 sts, 3 sc in the last st. (22 sc)
- Right stem, top (5 row-ends): Sc in each row-end. (5 sc)
- Right stem, upper inner edge (7 sts): 3 sc in the first st, sc in the next 5 sts. (8 sc)
- Top notch: Sc2tog over the last right-stem st and the first st of the diagonal. (1 sc)
- Diagonal, upper edge (7 remaining sts): Sc in the next 6 sts, 2 sc in the last st. (8 sc)
- Left stem, top (5 row-ends): Sc in each row-end, then sl st to the first sc. (5 sc)
Total: 22 + 5 + 8 + 1 + 8 + 5 + 22 + 5 + 8 + 1 + 8 + 5 = 98 sc
Why the math works: The outline has 86 edge sts and row-ends: 18 + 5 + 7 + 8 + 5 + 18 + 5 + 7 + 8 + 5 = 86.
- The six square corners add 2 sc each (+12).
- The two wide-angle corners, where the diagonal meets a stem end, add 1 sc each (+2).
- The two notches remove 1 sc each (–2).
That gives 86 + 12 + 2 – 2 = 98. Stitches and rows both measure 5 per inch, so 1 sc per stitch or row-end keeps every edge flat.
Fasten off and weave in the end.
Check: 4 in (10.2 cm) x 3.1 in (7.9 cm).
Daisies
Use the 2.25 mm hook.
Small Daisy (Make 2)
Rnd 1 (mustard): Make a magic ring and work 8 sc in it. Pull it closed and sl st to the first sc. (8 sc) Fasten off.
Rnd 2 (cream): Join with a sl st in any st. Ch 4, sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in the next ch, hdc in the next ch, then sl st in the next center st. Repeat from * around. (8 petals)
Diameter: about 1 in (2.5 cm).
Large Daisy (Make 1)
Rnd 1 (mustard): Make a magic ring and work 6 sc in it, then sl st to the first sc. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, work 2 sc in each st around, then sl st to the first sc. (12 sc) Fasten off.
Rnd 3 (cream): Join with a sl st in any st. Ch 5, sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in the next ch, hdc in the next 2 ch, then sl st in the next center st. Repeat from * around. (12 petals)
Diameter: about 1.4 in (3.6 cm).
Leaves (Make 5)
Use olive green and the 2.25 mm hook.
- Ch 7.
- Working along the chain: sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in the next ch, hdc in the next ch, dc in the next ch, hdc in the next ch.
- Work (sc, ch 2, sc) in the last ch to make the tip.
- Working along the other side of the chain: hdc in the next ch, dc in the next ch, hdc in the next ch, sc in the next ch, sl st in the next ch.
- Fasten off and leave a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail.
Each leaf is about 0.9 in (2.3 cm) long and 0.4 in (1.0 cm) wide.
Appliqué and Hardware
Arrange the appliqués on the left stem, from top to bottom:
- A leaf at the top, with its tip angled up and out
- A small daisy
- A leaf on the left side
- The large daisy, overlapping the diagonal by 0.25 in (0.6 cm)
- Two leaves, one on each side
- The second small daisy
- A leaf at the bottom, with its tip pointing down
Sew the leaves on first with their own tails. Next, sew each daisy down around its center, then tack 3 or 4 petal tips so they lie flat. Hide your stitches in the ridges on the back.
Open the jump ring sideways with the pliers. Pass it through the 3rd of the 5 border sc at the top of the left stem, add the end link of the key-ring chain, and close the ring fully.
Final Blocking
- Mist the letter until it is damp, not soaked.
- Pin it RS up at 4 in (10.2 cm) x 3.1 in (7.9 cm).
- Put one pin at each square corner, and pin both notches so they stay crisp.
- Use the grid to check that the stems are parallel and the diagonal is straight.
- Press the petals flat with your fingertips.
- Let it dry completely before you unpin it.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each stem measures 3.6 in (9.1 cm) before the border.
- Each end of the diagonal sits along 11 stem sts.
- The border round has exactly 98 sc.
- The corners are sharp and the notches lie flat without ruffling.
- The finished size is 4 in (10.2 cm) x 3.1 in (7.9 cm).
- No appliqué stitching shows on the front.
- The jump ring is fully closed.
Troubleshooting
- The letter cups: The seams are too tight. Re-sew them more loosely, then block again.
- The diagonal zigzags: The 3-sc groups switched ends. Keep them on the same end of the strip every row.
- The border ruffles: Recount each section against the totals above, or try a smaller hook.
- The corners pull in: Check that you worked 3 sc in every square corner.
- The petals flip up: Tack the petal tips down.
- The ridges look faint: Your tension is loose. Go down half a hook size.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, roll it in a towel to remove water, and dry it flat. Keep the metal ring as dry as you can.

Final Notes
Each stage builds on the one before it. At 5 sts and 5 rows per inch, each 18-st, 5-row stem measures 3.6 in (9.1 cm) x 1 in (2.5 cm). The 8-st diagonal attaches across 11 stem sts at each end, which makes a 3.6 in (9.1 cm) x 2.7 in (6.9 cm) letter. The 98-sc border adds 0.2 in (0.5 cm) all around, for a finished keychain of 4 in (10.2 cm) x 3.1 in (7.9 cm). Check your size at each stage, and the daisies will have a neat, square N to sit on.
Happy crocheting!