Evergreen Almond Link Curtain Crochet Pattern

The Evergreen Almond Link Curtain is a strand curtain made from pointed oval motifs linked tip to tip. Each strand hangs from its own small loop and ends in a full tassel, so the curtain moves gently when air passes through it.

The sample alternates deep teal and natural cream: four strands of each, eight strands in total. The colors suit both a holiday window and a year-round boho room. Each motif has a ribbed band of stitches around an open almond center and a smooth single crochet edge with crisp points.

This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished curtain measures 27 in (68.6 cm) wide, with strands centered 3.5 in (8.9 cm) apart, and 43.5 in (110.5 cm) long from the top of the hanging loop to the tassel tips.

Here is how it’s built. You make each motif by working one round of graduated stitches into a chain ring. A second single crochet round adds the edging and links the motif to the one above it. A hanging loop goes at the top of each strand and a tassel at the bottom.

Finished Size and Construction

  • Finished size: 27 in (68.6 cm) wide × 43.5 in (110.5 cm) long
  • Skill level: Advanced beginner
  • Terminology: US crochet terms
  • Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton or cotton blend
  • Hook: US H-8 (5 mm)
  • Number of pieces: 56 motifs (28 teal, 28 cream) and 8 tassels
  • Layout: 8 strands × 7 motifs, colors alternating by strand
  • Piece size: 2.5 in (6.4 cm) wide × 5 in (12.7 cm) long
  • Size before border (after Round 1): 2 in (5.1 cm) × 4.5 in (11.4 cm)
  • Border depth: 0.25 in (0.6 cm), the single crochet edging round

Materials

Choose a smooth, firm worsted cotton. Mercerized or combed cotton shows the ribbed texture clearly and keeps the points sharp. Avoid fuzzy or very stretchy acrylic, which lets the long strands sag.

Yarn (assumes about 170 m per 100 g):
– Deep teal: 240 g (410 m)
– Natural cream: 240 g (410 m)

Each strand uses about 80 m: about 10 m per motif, plus the hanging loop and tassel. These quantities include a margin of roughly 25% for your gauge test, tension differences, and fuller tassels.

Tools:
– US H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– Stiff card 5.5 in (14.0 cm) tall for the tassels
– Rustproof pins and a blocking board
– Wooden rod up to 1.25 in (3.2 cm) in diameter and at least 30 in (76.2 cm) long
– Locking stitch markers

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch – chain
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • sc – single crochet
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • dc – double crochet
  • sp – space
  • st(s) – stitch(es)

Special technique – point link: Work sc in the current ch-2 sp, ch 1, sl st into the bottom ch-2 sp of the motif above, ch 1, then sc again in the same ch-2 sp of the current motif. This replaces a plain (sc, ch 2, sc) at the top point.

Gauge and Checkpoints

Gauge: 16 sc and 18 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc. Your chains should measure about 4.5 ch per 1 in (2.5 cm).

Make one complete motif before starting the rest, then check it at each stage:

  • Foundation ring (34 ch): Laid flat as a narrow loop, it measures about 3.75 in (9.5 cm) end to end.
  • After Round 1: 2 in (5.1 cm) wide × 4.5 in (11.4 cm) long. The open center is about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) wide × 3.5 in (8.9 cm) long.
  • After Round 2: 2.5 in (6.4 cm) wide × 5 in (12.7 cm) long.

If your motif is too big, go down to a 4.5 mm hook. If it’s too small, go up to a 5.5 mm hook. Change the hook, not the stitch counts, because the counts are what shape the points.

Dark teal crocheted shawl with open lace stitch pattern and braided center tie, backlit by soft window light.

Motif Pattern

Each motif starts as a chain ring. Round 1 shapes the almond, and Round 2 (given in full in the Border section) adds the edge and makes the link.

Foundation: Ch 34. Sl st into the first ch to form a ring, making sure the chain isn’t twisted. The joining ch is the top point. The 17th ch after it is the bottom point.

Round 1: Ch 1 (does not count as a st). Work (sc, ch 2, sc) in the same ch as the join; this is the top point.

  • Side A: sc in next 2 ch, hdc in next 2 ch, dc in next 8 ch, hdc in next 2 ch, sc in next 2 ch (16 sts).
  • Bottom point: (sc, ch 2, sc) in next ch.
  • Side B: sc in next 2 ch, hdc in next 2 ch, dc in next 8 ch, hdc in next 2 ch, sc in next 2 ch (16 sts).
  • Sl st in the first sc to join, then sl st into the top ch-2 sp.

Stitch count: 36 sts (16 on each side plus 2 sc at each point) and 2 ch-2 sps.

Chain check: The points use 1 ch each and the sides use 16 ch each, so 1 + 16 + 1 + 16 = 34 ch. Every chain in the ring is used once.

The tall dc stitches in the middle of each side push the outer edge outward. The short sc at the ends pull it into a point, which gives the almond silhouette while the center stays an open almond.

Don’t fasten off. Continue with Round 2 from the Border section.

Make All Pieces

Make 56 motifs:
– Teal: 28 motifs (4 strands × 7)
– Cream: 28 motifs (4 strands × 7)

You build each strand from the top down as you go. Work Motif 1 complete, then add each new motif’s Round 2 directly onto the motif above it.

Layout grid (T = teal, C = cream; columns are strands from left to right, rows are motifs from top to bottom):

         S1 S2 S3 S4 S5 S6 S7 S8
Row 1:   T  C  T  C  T  C  T  C
Row 2:   T  C  T  C  T  C  T  C
Row 3:   T  C  T  C  T  C  T  C
Row 4:   T  C  T  C  T  C  T  C
Row 5:   T  C  T  C  T  C  T  C
Row 6:   T  C  T  C  T  C  T  C
Row 7:   T  C  T  C  T  C  T  C
Tassel:  T  C  T  C  T  C  T  C

Joining

Motifs join point to point during Round 2, with only one link in each joint.

Method: On Motif 1 of each strand, work the top point as a hanging loop (see Strand Ends below). On Motifs 2–7, work the top point as a point link into the bottom ch-2 sp of the motif directly above.

Stitch-to-stitch logic: The link replaces the ch 2 of the top point with ch 1, sl st, ch 1. That’s the same length, so the point keeps its shape. Both sc at the point are still worked, so the count stays at 44 sc.

Tension: Keep the two ch-1s relaxed, at the same size as your other chains. If the link is tight, the strand puckers at each joint. If it’s loose, the motifs twist.

Size checkpoint: Each link adds about 0.25 in (0.6 cm). A strand of 7 motifs measures 7 × 5 in + 6 × 0.25 in = 36.5 in (92.7 cm) from the top point of Motif 1 to the bottom point of Motif 7.

Border

On this design, Round 2 is the border. It’s worked around every motif and doubles as the joining round.

Border gauge: 4 sc per 1 in (2.5 cm) along the outer edge.

Round 2: Ch 1.

  • Top point: (sc, ch 2, sc) in the ch-2 sp. On Motif 1, work the hanging loop here instead; on Motifs 2–7, work the point link.
  • sc in the next sc.
  • Side A: sc in next 5 sts (2 sc, 2 hdc, 1 dc), 2 sc in next dc, sc in next 4 dc, 2 sc in next dc, sc in next 5 sts (1 dc, 2 hdc, 2 sc). That makes 18 sc from 16 sts.
  • sc in the next sc.
  • Bottom point: (sc, ch 2, sc) in the ch-2 sp.
  • sc in the next sc.
  • Side B: repeat the Side A sequence (18 sc).
  • sc in the last sc, which is the first sc of Round 1 that you slipped over.
  • Sl st in the first sc to join. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Counts per side: Each side runs from one point ch-sp to the next and has 22 sc: 1 point sc + 1 sc + 18 sc + 1 sc + 1 point sc. The point sc count as that side’s corner stitches. They are not added again.

Round total: 2 sides × 22 = 44 sc, plus 2 ch-2 sps.

Conversion check: 36 sts worked 1 per existing stitch, plus 4 increases (2 per side), plus 4 sc worked into the 2 ch-2 sps, gives 36 + 4 + 4 = 44 sc.

Why the math works: Each 22-sc side covers about 5.5 in (14.0 cm) of curved edge at 4 sc per in, which matches the arc of an almond 2.5 in × 5 in. The 2 increases sit over the dc section, where the outer edge is longest, so the motif lies flat instead of cupping. Each point gets only 2 sc and a ch-2, which keeps the tip sharp.

Strand Ends: Hanging Loop and Tassel

Hanging loop (Motif 1 only): At the top point in Round 2, work (sc, ch 20, sc) in the ch-2 sp. Ch 20 is about 4.4 in (11.2 cm) around and fits a rod up to 1.25 in (3.2 cm) in diameter, which is about 3.9 in (9.9 cm) around. Folded, the loop hangs about 2 in (5.1 cm).

Tassel (one per strand, in the strand color):

  1. Wrap yarn 30 times around the 5.5 in (14.0 cm) card.
  2. Thread an 8 in (20.3 cm) strand under the wraps at the top and tie it tightly.
  3. Cut the wraps open along the bottom edge.
  4. About 0.75 in (1.9 cm) below the top, wrap an 18 in (45.7 cm) strand tightly around the tassel 6 times to make the neck. Knot it and bury the ends inside the tassel.
  5. Trim the tassel to 5 in (12.7 cm) from the top of its head to the tips.
  6. Use the top tie to attach the tassel through the bottom ch-2 sp of Motif 7. Knot it securely and weave the ends into the motif.

Strand length: 2 in loop + 36.5 in motifs + 5 in tassel = 43.5 in (110.5 cm).

Final Blocking

  1. Wet each strand in cool water and press out the excess water in a towel. Don’t wring it.
  2. Lay the strand flat on a blocking board.
  3. Pin each motif to 2.5 in (6.4 cm) × 5 in (12.7 cm), with one pin at each point and one at the widest part of each side.
  4. Run a pencil or knitting needle through each open center to even out the almond shape.
  5. Keep the links straight so all the motifs line up in one vertical column.
  6. Let it dry completely, usually 12–24 hours.
  7. Steam the tassels lightly, comb the strands straight, and re-trim them to 5 in (12.7 cm).
  8. Slide the loops onto the rod and space the strands 3.5 in (8.9 cm) apart, center to center. The overall width is 7 × 3.5 in + 2.5 in = 27 in (68.6 cm).

Final Quality-Control Checklist

  • [ ] Every motif has 36 sts in Round 1 and 44 sc in Round 2.
  • [ ] Every motif measures 2.5 in × 5 in (6.4 × 12.7 cm).
  • [ ] Each strand has 7 motifs and 6 point links.
  • [ ] Every strand is 43.5 in (110.5 cm) long, and all the tassels end level.
  • [ ] Colors alternate teal and cream across the rod, starting with teal.
  • [ ] No motif is twisted at a link.
  • [ ] All ends are woven in and invisible from both sides.
  • [ ] All hanging loops are the same size.

Troubleshooting

Motif cups or curls: Round 2 is too tight. Loosen your tension or check that you worked both increases on each side.

Edge ruffles: You probably added extra increases. Recount Round 2 to 44 sc.

Points are rounded, not sharp: You worked more than 2 sc into a point ch-2 sp. Work exactly (sc, ch 2, sc).

Center opening closes up: The foundation chain is too tight. Chain with a hook one size larger, then switch back for Round 1.

Strands twist on the rod: Make sure every point link sl st goes through the ch-2 sp from the front, the same way on every motif.

Strands are different lengths: Check the motif sizes and link tension, then re-block the long strand with less vertical stretch.

Tassels look thin: Wrap 36 times instead of 30. You have enough yarn margin for this.

Care

Hand wash in cool water with mild soap and lay flat to dry, re-pinning if needed. Don’t tumble dry, because the heat distorts the points and frizzes the tassels.

Crocheted window curtain in dark teal and tan with interlocking oval motifs and coordinating tassel trim.

Final Notes

The measurement chain is simple. A 34-ch ring becomes a 2 in × 4.5 in (5.1 × 11.4 cm) core with 36 sts. The edging brings it to 2.5 in × 5 in (6.4 × 12.7 cm) with 44 sc, or 22 per side. Seven linked motifs make 36.5 in (92.7 cm), and the loop and tassel bring each strand to 43.5 in (110.5 cm). Eight strands spaced 3.5 in (8.9 cm) apart give a curtain 27 in (68.6 cm) wide. If your test motif matches its checkpoints, the whole curtain will too.

Happy crocheting!

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