The Evergreen Link Strand Curtain is a set of hanging crochet strands made from pointed-oval links. Each link has an open center and a ribbed band of tightly packed double crochet. Links join point to point, so every strand has a slim, twisted-looking neck between ovals. A hanging loop sits at the top of each strand and a full tassel at the bottom.
This version alternates four olive green strands and four cream strands on one curtain rod. The look is boho, a little like macramé, and it works well as a window valance, a doorway divider, or a holiday backdrop. All terms are US crochet terms.
Each finished strand is about 2.75 in (7.0 cm) wide and about 35.5 in (90.2 cm) long from the top of the loop to the end of the tassel. With 3 in (7.6 cm) between strand centers, the eight strands cover about 23.75 in (60.3 cm) of rod.
To make a strand, you crochet the first link in two rounds. Each later link is joined to the one before it on its second round. When all seven links are joined, one continuous border round goes around the whole strand and forms the hanging loop. A corded reverse single crochet round finishes the edge, and then you add the tassel.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished strand: 2.75 in (7.0 cm) wide × 35.5 in (90.2 cm) long, including the loop and tassel
- Skill level: Easy to intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 56 links (7 per strand × 8 strands), plus 8 tassels
- Layout: 8 separate strands hung side by side, alternating colors A and B
- Piece size (one link): 4 in (10.2 cm) long × 2.25 in (5.7 cm) wide
- Strand body before border: 28 in (71.1 cm) long × 2.25 in (5.7 cm) wide
- Border depth: 0.25 in (0.6 cm) per edge, which brings the body to 28.5 in (72.4 cm) × 2.75 in (7.0 cm)
Materials
Choose a smooth, firm cotton or cotton blend in worsted weight. Cotton shows the ribbing clearly and hangs straight without stretching. Avoid fuzzy or very soft acrylics, because the links can sag.
- Color A (olive green): 250 g / 425 m (about 465 yd)
- Color B (cream): 250 g / 425 m (about 465 yd)
Each color makes 4 strands, including the tassels. These quantities include a margin of about 25% for your swatch, tension differences, and fuller tassels.
Tools:
– 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– 4 locking stitch markers
– A piece of stiff cardboard, 5.5 in (14.0 cm) tall, for winding tassels
– Tape measure
– Rust-proof pins and a blocking board
– Curtain rod, at least 30 in (76.2 cm) long
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- rev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rep – repeat
- Rnd – round
Special stitch – rev sc (reverse single crochet): Work from left to right (right-handed). Insert the hook into the next stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook. This makes a twisted, beaded cord along the edge.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc × 18 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) in rows of sc, and 8 rows of dc = 4 in (10.2 cm). That means 1 sc round is about 0.25 in (0.6 cm) tall and 1 dc round is about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) tall.
Make one complete link before you start a full strand. Lay it flat with the ring join at the top, then check it against these sizes:
- After Rnd 1: 3 in (7.6 cm) tip to tip × 1.25 in (3.2 cm) wide
- After Rnd 2: 4 in (10.2 cm) tip to tip × 2.25 in (5.7 cm) wide
- After 4 joined links: 16 in (40.6 cm) long
- After 7 joined links: 28 in (71.1 cm) long
- After the border: 28.5 in (72.4 cm) × 2.75 in (7.0 cm)
If your link is too big: go down to a 4.5 mm (US 7) hook. A large link adds up quickly, because 7 links that are each 0.25 in (0.6 cm) too long make the strand 1.75 in (4.4 cm) too long.
If your link is too small or cups: go up to a 5.5 mm (I-9) hook. If the band ruffles, your tension is loose, so drop down half a hook size.
Link Pattern
The link starts as a chain ring. The ring flattens into a long oval, and the points form at the top and bottom. The ring join is the top tip.
First Link (Link 1 of each strand)
Foundation: Ch 24, then sl st to the first ch to form a ring. Be careful not to twist the chain.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, then work 1 sc in each ch around. Sl st to the first sc. (24 sc)
Put a marker in sc 1 (top tip) and in sc 13 (bottom tip). This leaves 11 sc on each side between the tips.
Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), then work dc, ch 2 and 2 dc in the same st (sc 1). This makes the top tip.
(Dc in next st, 2 dc in next st) 5 times, dc in next st. That is 16 dc along the side.
Work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in sc 13 for the bottom tip.
Rep from * to * once more, for 16 dc along the second side.
Sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3.
Stitch count for Rnd 2: 24 sts worked 1 per existing stitch + 16 extra stitches = 40 dc and 2 ch-2 sps.
– The extra stitches come from each tip adding 3 (+6 total) and each side adding 5 (+10 total).
– Per side count: 2 top-tip dc + 16 side dc + 2 bottom-tip dc = 20 sts per side. This count already includes the tip stitches.
Fasten off and weave in the ends. The tightly packed dc lean out around the curve, and this makes the ribbed band. The ch-2 at each end pulls the band into a sharp point.
Joined Links (Links 2–7)
Work the Foundation and Rnd 1 the same as for Link 1.
Rnd 2 (joining round): Ch 3 (counts as dc) and work dc in the same st (sc 1). Ch 1, then sl st into the bottom ch-2 sp of the previous link. Ch 1, then work 2 dc in the same st (sc 1) of the current link.
Finish the round the same as Link 1: 16 side dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in sc 13, 16 side dc, then sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3.
Count: 40 dc as before. The ch-1, sl st, ch-1 group takes the place of the ch-2 at the top tip.
Before you join, check that the right sides of both links face you. If you flip a link, the strand will twist.
Make All Pieces
For the full curtain, make:
- Color A (olive): 4 strands × 7 links = 28 links, plus 4 tassels
- Color B (cream): 4 strands × 7 links = 28 links, plus 4 tassels
Make each strand as one unit by joining as you go, so you never have loose links to sort.
Layout grid (front view, left to right on the rod):
Rod: ====================================
Strand: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
Color: A B A B A B A B
Loop o o o o o o o o
Link 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Link 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Link 3 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Link 4 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Link 5 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Link 6 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Link 7 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Tassel | | | | | | | |
Joining
The links are joined on Rnd 2 while you make them, so there is no seaming.
Stitch-to-stitch logic: Each join connects exactly one ch-2 sp, the bottom tip of the upper link, to exactly one tip stitch, the top tip of the lower link. You don’t add any stitches along the sides. Each link keeps its 20 sts per side, and the join chains are not counted in either side count.
Tension advice: Keep the ch-1 on each side of the sl st snug but not tight. If they are too tight, the points pucker and the neck kinks. If they are too loose, the links drop apart and add length. Each join should stay flat and add no measurable length.
Size checkpoint: Measure after Link 4. The strand should be 16 in (40.6 cm) from top tip to bottom tip. After Link 7 it should be 28 in (71.1 cm), which is 7 × 4 in (10.2 cm). If it is more than 0.5 in (1.3 cm) off, check your joining tension before you continue.
Border
One continuous border goes around the entire strand. It covers the left edge of all 7 links, goes around the bottom point, comes up the right edge, and makes the hanging loop at the top.
Border gauge: 4 sc per 1 in (2.5 cm) along the curved outer edge. The outer arc of each link side measures about 5 in (12.7 cm), which matches 20 sts.
Border Rnd 1: With the right side facing, join yarn in the top ch-2 sp of Link 1. Work sc, ch 16 and sc in that sp. This makes the hanging loop.
Left side: Work 1 sc in each dc down the left side of every link. Skip the join chains at each neck. Per link: 2 + 16 + 2 = 20 sc. Total: 7 links × 20 = 140 sc.
Bottom tip: Work (sc, ch 2, sc) in the bottom ch-2 sp of Link 7.
Right side: Work 1 sc in each dc up the right side of every link, skipping the join chains, for 140 sc.
Sl st to the first sc.
Count for Border Rnd 1: 140 + 140 + 2 (top) + 2 (bottom) = 284 sc, plus the ch-16 loop and the bottom ch-2 sp.
Border Rnd 2: Ch 1, then work 1 rev sc in each sc down the left side (140 rev sc). At the bottom tip, work 2 rev sc in the ch-2 sp. Then work 1 rev sc in each sc up the right side (140 rev sc). When you reach the hanging loop, work 24 sc around the ch-16 loop to reinforce it. Sl st to the first st and fasten off.
Count for Border Rnd 2: 284 rev sc + 2 rev sc in the tip = 286 rev sc, plus 24 sc on the loop.
Why the math works: Each side of the strand has exactly 7 links × 20 sts = 140 sts. The neck joins add nothing, because the chains there are skipped, not worked. Working 1 border stitch into each dc means the edge can’t flare or pull in. At the necks, the last 2 tip stitches of one link sit right next to the first 2 tip stitches of the next. This tightens the border slightly there and keeps the pinched neck shape.
Tassel (make 1 per strand)
Wrap yarn 30 times around the 5.5 in (14.0 cm) cardboard. Slide a 12 in (30.5 cm) tie strand under the loops at one edge, tie it tightly, then cut the loops at the opposite edge. Thread the tie ends through the bottom ch-2 sp of Link 7 and knot them securely.
Wrap a separate length of yarn tightly 6 times around the tassel 1 in (2.5 cm) below the top, then knot it and bury the ends inside. Trim the tassel to 5 in (12.7 cm).
Final Blocking
- Lay the strand flat, right side up, on a blocking board.
- Pin the hanging loop at the top and the bottom tip of Link 7 so the strand body measures 28.5 in (72.4 cm).
- Pin both sides of each link so it measures 2.75 in (7.0 cm) at its widest point.
- Open each oval center with your fingers so the opening is even and centered.
- Mist the strand with water until it is damp but not soaking.
- Comb the tassel straight with your fingers and mist it too.
- Let it dry completely, at least 12 hours.
- Unpin and trim any uneven tassel ends.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each link has 40 dc on Rnd 2 (20 per side).
- Each strand has 7 links and measures 28 in (71.1 cm) before the border.
- Border Rnd 1 has 140 sc on each side.
- All links face the same way, with no twists at the necks.
- The hanging loop is reinforced with 24 sc and fits easily over your rod.
- Tassels are secure and trimmed to 5 in (12.7 cm).
- All 8 strands are within 0.5 in (1.3 cm) of each other in length.
- Ends are woven in on the wrong side, into stitches of the same color.
Troubleshooting
The links cup into a bowl shape: Rnd 2 is too tight. Try a larger hook for Rnd 2 only.
The band ruffles: You may have added extra increases. Count again: there should be exactly 16 dc per side.
The tips are rounded instead of pointed: Make sure you worked the ch-2 between the tip dc and that all 4 tip dc went into the same marked sc.
The strand twists while hanging: One link was joined wrong side up. Undo that link’s Rnd 2 and rejoin it.
The strands are different lengths: Compare the strands after 4 links. Re-block any short ones, or remake the link that is off.
The hanging loop stretches: Work the 24 sc around the loop more firmly, or go down one hook size for those stitches.
Care
Hand wash cold with mild soap, then press out the water in a towel. Lay the strands flat to dry, reshape the points, and comb the tassels straight.
Final Notes
The sizes in this pattern build on each other in a chain. One link is 4 in (10.2 cm) × 2.25 in (5.7 cm). Seven joined links make a 28 in (71.1 cm) body. The border adds 0.25 in (0.6 cm) to each edge, so the body becomes 28.5 in (72.4 cm) × 2.75 in (7.0 cm). With the 2 in (5.1 cm) loop and the 5 in (12.7 cm) tassel, each strand is about 35.5 in (90.2 cm) long. Eight strands spaced 3 in (7.6 cm) apart cover 23.75 in (60.3 cm) of rod. If your first link matches its checkpoint, the rest of these numbers will follow.
Happy crocheting!