This little keychain is a lacy oval “O” in soft cream cotton. It has a scalloped edge of twelve shell fans and three tiny blue flowers sewn on top. You can finish it in an evening, and it is pretty enough to clip onto a favorite handbag.
The colors are calm and fresh: a cream frame, periwinkle-blue five-petal flowers with sunny yellow centers, and small green leaves. A gold split key ring and short chain finish the piece at the top center.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished frame measures about 3.25 inches (8.3 cm) wide by 4 inches (10.2 cm) tall, not counting the hardware. With the ring and chain added, the keychain hangs about 5.75 inches (14.6 cm) long.
Construction is simple. You chain a ring and work a round of single crochet. Next comes a chain-space mesh round, then a round of larger chain loops, and finally a round of shells. Then you block the frame into an oval, stiffen it lightly, sew on the three flowers and their leaves, and attach the hardware.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size (frame only): 3.25 inches (8.3 cm) wide x 4 inches (10.2 cm) tall
- Total length with hardware: about 5.75 inches (14.6 cm)
- Skill level: Easy to intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Super fine (#1, fingering) mercerized cotton
- Hook: 2.25 mm (US B-1)
- Number of pieces: 1 main frame, plus 3 flower appliqués and 5 leaves
- Layout: Single oval frame, worked in the round; flowers at the upper right, left, and lower right
- Inner opening: about 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide x 1.75 inches (4.4 cm) tall
- Size before border (after Round 2): about 2 inches (5.1 cm) wide x 2.75 inches (7.0 cm) tall
- Border depth (Rounds 3-4): about 0.625 inch (1.6 cm) on every side
Materials
Choose a smooth, mercerized cotton in fingering weight. Mercerized cotton shows the shell texture clearly, holds starch well, and resists pilling when the keychain rubs against a bag. Avoid fuzzy or very stretchy yarns, which blur the lace and lose their shape.
- Cream (frame): 8 g, about 27 m
- Blue (flower petals): 2 g, about 7 m
- Yellow (flower centers): 1 g, about 3 m
- Green (leaves): 1 g, about 3 m
All quantities include extra yarn for a test piece and for weaving in ends.
Tools
- 2.25 mm (US B-1) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Stitch marker
- 1 inch (2.5 cm) gold split key ring
- Short gold chain, about 0.75 inch (1.9 cm), 3-4 links
- 2 gold jump rings, 6 mm
- 2 pairs of flat-nose pliers
- Fabric stiffener or spray starch
- Blocking mat and rustproof pins
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sk – skip
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
Special stitch – Shell: (sc, 7 dc, sc) all worked into the same ch-5 loop. One shell = 9 sts and forms one fan-shaped scallop.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 8 sc = 1 inch (2.5 cm) with the 2.25 mm hook.
Because this is one small piece, your first frame is your test piece. Measure at each checkpoint and adjust before you go further.
- After Round 1: the ring lies flat as a circle about 1.4 inches (3.6 cm) across, with a circumference of about 4.5 inches (11.4 cm).
- After Round 2: pinned into an oval, the piece measures about 2 inches (5.1 cm) x 2.75 inches (7.0 cm).
- After Round 3: about 2.625 inches (6.7 cm) x 3.375 inches (8.6 cm).
- After Round 4: about 3.25 inches (8.3 cm) x 4 inches (10.2 cm).
If your piece is too big: go down to a 2.0 mm hook, or tighten your foundation chain. A loose ring is the most common cause of a floppy frame.
If your piece is too small or cupping: go up to a 2.5 mm hook. Check that you are working the ch-5 loops fully and not pulling them tight.
Differences of up to 0.25 inch (0.6 cm) are fine. Blocking will even them out.
The Main Frame
Work the frame in joined rounds with the right side facing you the whole time. Do not turn.
Foundation: With cream, ch 36. Sl st into the first ch to form a ring, making sure the chain is not twisted.
Round 1 (conversion round): Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in each ch around. Sl st to the first sc to join.
Count: 36 sc (36 worked 1-per-chain + 0 added).
This round turns the soft chain into a firm inner edge. It becomes the inside rim of the “O” and sets the size of the opening.
Round 2 (mesh round): Ch 1, sc in the same st as the join, ch 3, sk 2 sts. Sc in next st, ch 3, sk 2 sts. Repeat from * to * 10 more times. Sl st to the first sc to join.
Count: 12 sc and 12 ch-3 sps (48 sts total).
Each repeat uses 3 stitches of Round 1. Since 12 x 3 = 36, the round closes evenly with no stitches left over. These ch-3 spaces form the small open windows between the inner rim and the fans.
Place a stitch marker in the first sc of this round. It marks the bottom center of the frame.
Checkpoint: pin the piece into an oval about 2 inches (5.1 cm) x 2.75 inches (7.0 cm), with the marker at the bottom. If it fits easily, continue.
Border
Rounds 3 and 4 form the scalloped border. Together they add about 0.625 inch (1.6 cm) to every side.
Border gauge: one shell spans about 0.875 inch (2.2 cm) along its base and stands about 0.325 inch (0.8 cm) tall once blocked.
To keep the border even on all sides, think of the oval as four arcs: bottom, right, top, and left. Each arc holds exactly 3 loops in Round 3 and 3 shells in Round 4.
Round 3 (loop round): Sl st in the next ch, then sl st into the first ch-3 sp. Ch 1, sc in the same sp, ch 5. Sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 5. Repeat from * to * 10 more times. Sl st to the first sc to join.
Count: 12 sc and 12 ch-5 loops (72 sts total).
Per arc: 3 sc and 3 ch-5 loops (18 sts) on each of the bottom, right, top, and left arcs.
The sc of this round sit in the centers of the Round 2 spaces. This offsets the openings and gives each fan a wide loop to sit in.
Round 4 (shell round): Sl st into the first ch-5 loop. Work 1 Shell (sc, 7 dc, sc) in each ch-5 loop around. Sl st to the first sc to join. Fasten off and weave in the end.
Count: 12 shells, 108 sts total (12 shells x 9 sts).
Per arc: 3 shells = 27 sts each on the bottom, right, top, and left.
Number the shells counterclockwise from the marker, with Shell 1 at bottom center:
- Bottom arc: Shells 12, 1, and 2
- Right arc: Shells 3, 4, and 5
- Top arc: Shells 6, 7, and 8
- Left arc: Shells 9, 10, and 11
Why the math works: The 36 Round 1 stitches divide into 12 groups of 3. Those 12 groups become 12 mesh spaces, then 12 loops, then 12 shells. Because 12 divides by 4, every arc gets exactly 3 shells. Because 12 is even, Shell 7 lands directly opposite Shell 1. That puts a fan peak at top center, where the hardware attaches, so the keychain hangs straight. Four arcs x 27 sts = 108 sts, which matches the round total exactly.
Flowers and Leaves
Flower (make 3)
With yellow, make a magic ring.
Round 1: Ch 1, 5 sc in the ring. Pull the ring closed and sl st to the first sc. Fasten off yellow.
Count: 5 sc.
Round 2: Join blue in any sc. (Ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st) in the same sc, sl st into the next sc. Repeat from * to * 4 more times, ending the last repeat in the joining st.
Count: 5 petals (10 dc total).
Fasten off, leaving a 6 inch (15.2 cm) tail for sewing. Each flower measures about 0.75 inch (1.9 cm) across.
Leaf (make 5)
With green, ch 4. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, sl st in last ch.
Count: 3 sts.
Fasten off, leaving a 6 inch (15.2 cm) tail. Each leaf is about 0.375 inch (1.0 cm) long.
Placement
Lay the blocked, dry frame right side up with Shell 1 at the bottom.
- Flower 1 (upper right): centered over Shell 5, with 2 leaves tucked out beneath it, one pointing left and one pointing down-right.
- Flower 2 (left): centered over Shell 10, with 2 leaves, one pointing up and one pointing down.
- Flower 3 (lower right): centered over Shell 2, with 1 leaf pointing up-right.
Sew each leaf first, with small stitches through its base. Then sew the flower on top, stitching around the yellow center so the petals stay free and slightly raised. Weave all tails into the back of the frame.
Final Blocking
- Dampen the frame with cool water and gently press out the extra water in a towel.
- Lay it right side up on a blocking mat with the marker at the bottom.
- Pin the inner opening into an oval 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide x 1.75 inches (4.4 cm) tall.
- Pin the outer edge to 3.25 inches (8.3 cm) x 4 inches (10.2 cm), placing one pin at the peak of each shell.
- Open each fan with your fingers so the 7 dc spread evenly.
- Apply fabric stiffener or spray starch, and let the piece dry completely.
- Remove the pins, then sew on the flowers and leaves.
- Open a jump ring with two pliers, pass it through the center (4th) dc of Shell 7, add the chain, and close it. Use the second jump ring to connect the chain to the split key ring.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Round 1 has 36 sc and the ring is not twisted.
- Round 2 has 12 ch-3 spaces.
- Round 3 has 12 ch-5 loops, 3 per arc.
- Round 4 has 12 shells of 9 sts each, 108 sts total.
- The frame measures about 3.25 inches (8.3 cm) x 4 inches (10.2 cm).
- The inner opening is a clear upright oval.
- Each flower has 5 even petals and a yellow center.
- Flowers sit at the upper right, left, and lower right.
- The jump ring passes through Shell 7 and the keychain hangs straight.
- All ends are woven in securely on the back.
Troubleshooting
The frame ruffles or waves. The loops are too long for your tension. Redo Round 3 with ch 4 instead of ch 5, or go down a hook size.
The frame cups into a bowl. Your chains are too tight. Go up a hook size for Rounds 3 and 4 only.
The opening looks round instead of oval. Wet the frame again, re-pin the inner edge to 1 inch (2.5 cm) x 1.75 inches (4.4 cm), and starch again.
The shells crowd each other. Check that each shell has only 7 dc. An 8th dc makes the fans overlap.
The keychain hangs crooked. The jump ring is not in Shell 7. Count 6 shells on from Shell 1 and move the ring to that shell’s center dc.
The petals are uneven. Make sure each petal starts and ends with ch 2 so the tips match.
Care
Spot clean with a damp cloth and mild soap, then reshape and lay flat to dry. Starch it again if the frame softens over time.
Final Notes
The measurements build up round by round:
- A 36-chain ring gives 36 sc and an opening of 1 inch (2.5 cm) x 1.75 inches (4.4 cm).
- Round 2 grows the piece to 2 inches (5.1 cm) x 2.75 inches (7.0 cm).
- Round 3 reaches 2.625 inches (6.7 cm) x 3.375 inches (8.6 cm).
- Round 4 finishes the frame at 3.25 inches (8.3 cm) x 4 inches (10.2 cm), with a border 0.625 inch (1.6 cm) deep.
- The hardware adds about 1.75 inches (4.4 cm), for a total length of about 5.75 inches (14.6 cm).
Check your size after each round and keep the shells even. Your forget-me-not keychain will soon be ready to brighten any bag.
Happy crocheting!