The Lavender Lattice holder is a vertical, three-tier organizer that keeps three spare toilet rolls within reach and off the floor. Each tier is a sturdy round basket worked in tight tapestry single crochet. Lavender and cream nested diamonds wrap the wall, and a corded cream rim finishes the top edge.
The palette is soft lavender and warm cream, with a natural wooden ring at the top. The style is clean and geometric. It works well in a bathroom, a laundry room, or a guest room.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder hangs about 27 in (68.6 cm) from the top of the ring to the bottom of the lowest basket. Each basket measures 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across and 4.4 in (11.2 cm) tall.
Construction is simple. You crochet each basket from the base up in joined rounds, changing straight from the flat base into the wall. You then make two long single-crochet straps, sew them to opposite sides of the baskets, and fold their tops over a wooden ring.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: about 27 in (68.6 cm) hanging drop; overall width 5.75 in (14.6 cm)
- Skill level: Intermediate (tapestry color changes)
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 4.0 mm (G-6)
- Number of pieces: 5 (3 baskets, 2 straps), plus 1 wooden ring
- Layout: 3 baskets stacked in a column, with about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) gaps
- Piece size: basket 5.75 in (14.6 cm) diameter x 4.4 in (11.2 cm) tall; strap 1.25 in (3.2 cm) x 26 in (66.0 cm)
- Basket height before the rim border: 4.2 in (10.7 cm)
- Rim border depth: about 0.25 in (0.6 cm)
Materials
Choose a smooth worsted cotton. Cotton holds its shape, resists stretching under the weight of the rolls, and gives crisp color changes. The amounts below assume about 170 m per 100 g.
- Lavender (L): 220 g, about 374 m (409 yd)
- Cream (C): 130 g, about 221 m (242 yd)
Both quantities include a margin of about 15% for gauge swatching and carried strands.
Tools:
– 4.0 mm (G-6) crochet hook
– One 3 in (7.6 cm) wooden ring
– Tapestry needle
– 6 locking stitch markers
– Scissors
– Measuring tape
– Blocking pins and a spray bottle
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sc – single crochet
- sc2 in – 2 sc in the same stitch
- BLO – back loop only
- sl st – slip stitch
- rev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
- rep – repeat
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- MR – magic ring
- L / C – lavender / cream
Tapestry sc: Work each sc over the unused color, laying it along the tops of the previous round so it is enclosed. To change color, work the last sc of the old color until 2 loops remain on the hook, yarn over with the new color, and pull through. Numbers in the color instructions mean “work that many sc in that color” (for example, “9 C” means 9 sc in cream).
Rev sc: Working left to right, insert the hook in the next st to the right, pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through both loops.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc x 18 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in tapestry sc worked in joined rounds.
Make one full basket first. It is your gauge swatch.
- Base, after Rnd 6 (36 sts): 2.9 in (7.4 cm) across
- Base, after Rnd 11 (66 sts): 5.25 in (13.3 cm) across
- Base, after Rnd 12 (72 sts): 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across
- Wall, after Wall Rnd 16: 3.5 in (8.9 cm) above the base ridge
- Before the border: 4.2 in (10.7 cm) tall
- Finished basket: 4.4 in (11.2 cm) tall, 18 in (45.7 cm) around
If your basket is too big, go down a half hook size. A loose basket sags and lets the carried strand show through.
If your basket is too small, go up a half hook size. A standard roll is about 4.25 to 4.5 in (10.8 to 11.4 cm) wide and must slide in easily.
If the base cups or ruffles, check your gauge first and re-count your increases. Do not add or remove rounds, because the wall needs exactly 72 sts.
Basket (Make 3)
Base
Work in joined rounds. Do not turn. The ch 1 at the start of a round does not count as a stitch.
Rnd 1 (L): MR, ch 1, 6 sc in ring, sl st to first sc. (6)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc2 in each st around, join. (12)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc 1, sc2 in next; rep around, join. (18)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc 2, sc2 in next; rep around, join. (24)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc 3, sc2 in next; rep around, join. (30)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc 4, sc2 in next; rep around, join. (36)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc 5, sc2 in next; rep around, join. (42)
Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc 6, sc2 in next; rep around, join. (48)
Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc 7, sc2 in next; rep around, join. (54)
Rnd 10: Ch 1, sc 8, sc2 in next; rep around, join. (60)
Rnd 11: Ch 1, sc 9, sc2 in next; rep around. Join to the first sc with C. (66)
Do not cut L. Carry it inside the stitches from now on.
Rnd 12 (C): Ch 1, sc 10, sc2 in next; rep around, join. (72)
The base should now lie flat at 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across.
Wall
Every wall round has 72 sts. Join each round with a sl st to the first sc and ch 1 before starting the next. The join always uses the color of the first stitch of the next round.
Wall Rnd 1 (C): Sc in BLO of each st around. (72)
This round makes the cream ridge that turns the base into the wall.
Wall Rnd 2 (C): Sc around. (72)
Wall Rnd 3 (L): Sc around, then join with C. (72)
Diamond band: Work each instruction 3 times per round. That is one 24-stitch repeat for each of the 3 diamonds.
Wall Rnd 4: 9 C, 2 L, 1 C, 2 L, 10 C. (60 C + 12 L = 72)
Wall Rnd 5: 8 C, 2 L, 1 C, 1 L, 1 C, 2 L, 9 C. (57 C + 15 L = 72)
Wall Rnd 6: 7 C, 2 L, 1 C, 3 L, 1 C, 2 L, 8 C. (51 C + 21 L = 72)
Wall Rnd 7: 6 C, 2 L, 1 C, 2 L, 1 C, 2 L, 1 C, 2 L, 7 C. (48 C + 24 L = 72)
Wall Rnd 8: 5 C, 2 L, 1 C, 2 L, 1 C, 1 L, 1 C, 2 L, 1 C, 2 L, 6 C. (45 C + 27 L = 72)
Wall Rnd 9: 4 C, 2 L, 1 C, 2 L, 1 C, 3 L, 1 C, 2 L, 1 C, 2 L, 5 C. (39 C + 33 L = 72)
Wall Rnd 10 (center): 3 C, 2 L, 1 C, 2 L, 1 C, 2 L, 1 C, 2 L, 1 C, 2 L, 1 C, 2 L, 4 C. (36 C + 36 L = 72)
Wall Rnds 11–16: Repeat Wall Rnds 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, then 4, in that order.
Within each repeat, stitch 12 is the center of a diamond. Diamond centers fall on sts 12, 36, and 60 of each round. The cream stitches build the center dot, the outline ring, and the triangles between the diamonds.
Wall Rnd 17 (L): Sc around, then join with C. Cut L and weave in the end later. (72)
Wall Rnds 18–19 (C): Sc around. (72 each)
Checkpoint: The basket should measure 4.2 in (10.7 cm) tall. Do not fasten off. Continue straight into the rim border (see the Border section).
Strap (Make 2)
Foundation (L): Ch 6.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (5)
Rows 2–117: Ch 1, sc across, turn. (5)
Fasten off.
Checkpoint: Each strap should measure 1.25 in (3.2 cm) x 26 in (66.0 cm). Strap rows match wall rounds one-to-one, at 18 per 4 in (10.2 cm).
Make All Pieces
- Baskets: 3, in L and C
- Straps: 2, in L only
- Ring: 1 wooden ring, 3 in (7.6 cm)
On each basket, place markers on Wall Rnd 19 at st 18 and st 54. These are the strap centers. The front diamond (st 36) sits between them, and the joining jog sits at the back, against the wall.
Layout by strap row:
[ wooden ring ]
/ \
Strap A rows 111–117 fold over ring Strap B
Strap A rows 75–110 free (angled) Strap B
| Basket 1 (top) | rows 55–74
| gap | rows 48–54
| Basket 2 (middle) | rows 28–47
| gap | rows 21–27
| Basket 3 (bottom) | rows 1–20
Joining
Order: Finish the rim border on every basket before joining, so the straps cover the finished rim.
Method: Whipstitch with L and a tapestry needle. Lay a strap flat against the outside of the wall, centered on its marker, so it covers sts 16–20 (or 52–56).
Stitch-to-stitch logic: Each basket is 20 rounds tall (19 wall rounds plus the border), so it takes up exactly 20 strap rows. Sew each long edge of the strap to the wall column next to it, one strap row-end to one wall round. Then tack strap Row 1 across the cream base ridge of the bottom basket.
Placement:
| Basket | Strap rows |
|---|---|
| Basket 3 (bottom) | 1–20 |
| Gap | 21–27 (7 rows, about 1.5 in / 3.8 cm) |
| Basket 2 (middle) | 28–47 |
| Gap | 48–54 (7 rows) |
| Basket 1 (top) | 55–74 |
Leave rows 75–117 free.
Tension: Pull each stitch just snug. Tight sewing puckers the wall, and loose sewing lets the baskets tilt forward when they are loaded.
Ring: Bring both free strap ends up and pass each one through the wooden ring from front to back. Fold rows 111–117, about 1.5 in (3.8 cm), down behind the strap and whipstitch them flat. The straps will angle inward toward the ring.
Size checkpoint: Hang the holder empty. The gaps should measure 1.5 in (3.8 cm), and the total drop should be about 27 in (68.6 cm).
Border: Cream Rim
Border gauge: One rev sc in each wall stitch. The rim stays 18 in (45.7 cm) around and adds about 0.25 in (0.6 cm) of height.
Border Rnd (C): Continue from Wall Rnd 19 without turning. Ch 1, rev sc in each st around, and join. (72)
Stitch counts:
- 24 sts per diamond repeat x 3 repeats = 72
- 36 sts from strap marker to strap marker across the front, and 36 across the back
Fasten off and weave in all ends on the inside.
Why the math works: The wall never increases or decreases, so it holds steady at 72 sts. Working exactly 1 rev sc per stitch keeps the rim the same circumference as the wall. It won’t flare or pull in, and the straps sit flat over a true 5-stitch-wide column on each side.
Final Blocking
- Remove the rolls and lay the holder flat.
- Mist each basket lightly until it is damp but not soaked.
- Stand a toilet roll inside each basket. The roll acts as a form to round out the wall.
- Push each base flat from the inside and roll the cream base ridge into a crisp edge with your fingers.
- Pin the straps straight on a towel, keeping each one 1.25 in (3.2 cm) wide.
- Check the gaps: each should be 1.5 in (3.8 cm).
- Leave everything to dry completely, about 12 to 24 hours.
- Remove the pins and hang the holder.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each base lies flat at 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across.
- Each wall has 72 sts in every round, from Wall Rnd 1 through the border.
- All three baskets measure 4.4 in (11.2 cm) tall.
- Each basket has 3 complete diamonds, with one centered on the front.
- No carried strand shows through on the outside.
- The joining jogs sit at the back.
- The straps are centered over sts 16–20 and 52–56.
- Both gaps measure 1.5 in (3.8 cm).
- The ring folds are secure, and the holder hangs straight.
- All ends are woven in on the inside.
Troubleshooting
Carried yarn peeks through. Tighten your tension slightly, or go down a half hook size. Keep the carried strand lying flat on top of the previous round.
Diamonds slant to one side. This is natural in sc tapestry worked in rounds. Try the yarn-under single crochet (yarn under instead of over when pulling up the loop) for straighter columns, and keep the same method throughout.
Base cups. You are probably missing an increase. Re-count each round against the totals.
Base ruffles. You likely have an extra increase, or your hook is too large.
A basket hangs crooked. Re-sew the straps so each one is centered exactly on its marker.
Straps stretch over time. Use cotton, not acrylic. Shorten the fold by 1 to 2 rows if needed.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, press out excess water in a towel, and dry flat using a roll as a form. Do not tumble dry, because heat can shrink the cotton unevenly.
Final Notes
The whole project depends on the 72-stitch circle:
- 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm) gives a 5.75 in (14.6 cm) base and an 18 in (45.7 cm) wall.
- The wall holds 3 diamond repeats of 24 sts each.
- 18 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm) gives a 4.4 in (11.2 cm) basket of 20 rounds.
- Those 20 rounds match 20 strap rows exactly.
- With 7-row gaps and a 7-row fold, the holder ends up about 27 in (68.6 cm) long.
Check your gauge on the first basket, and the rest will follow.
Happy crocheting!