This little lace mitten is made to hang on a tree branch. It is worked in fine cream cotton thread, and the body is filled with rows of fan shells that sit offset from one another, so the mitten looks like a piece of vintage doily lace. A treble-post cuff finishes the top, an open arched thumb sits on the right side, and the whole outline is edged with closely spaced picots.
The design uses a single color: a warm ivory or cream, which looks right next to green branches and warm lights. You could also use white, pale gold, or soft red without changing anything in the pattern.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished ornament measures 3.5 in (8.9 cm) wide including the thumb and 4 in (10.2 cm) tall, plus a hanging loop of about 1.75 in (4.4 cm).
Construction is simple. You work the body flat in rows from the bottom edge up to the cuff. Then you add the thumb as a short arch on the right edge, work a two-round picot border all the way around, and finish with a chain hanging loop. The ornament is one single piece, so there is no joining.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 3.5 in (8.9 cm) wide x 4 in (10.2 cm) tall, not counting the loop
- Hanging loop: about 1.75 in (4.4 cm)
- Skill level: Intermediate (thread work, fan shells, working into row ends)
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Size 10 cotton crochet thread (Lace / 0)
- Hook: 1.75 mm steel hook
- Number of pieces: 1
- Layout: Single mitten-shaped motif worked flat in rows
- Body size before thumb and border: 2.5 in (6.4 cm) wide x 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall
- Thumb projection: about 0.5 in (1.3 cm)
- Border depth: about 0.25 in (0.6 cm) on every edge
Materials
Thread: Choose a mercerized size 10 cotton crochet thread. Mercerized cotton holds crisp stitch definition, takes starch well, and doesn’t fuzz. Avoid acrylic or soft “craft” cotton, because the fans won’t hold their shape.
- Cream / ivory: 8 g, about 70 m
One ornament uses about 6 g (about 50 m). The quantity above includes a safety margin for your gauge swatch and for weaving in ends.
Tools:
– 1.75 mm steel crochet hook
– Fine tapestry needle or thread needle
– Small sharp scissors
– Fabric stiffener or starch (spray starch or a liquid stiffener)
– Foam blocking board and rustproof pins
– Ruler or tape measure
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet
- sk – skip
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- RS / WS – right side / wrong side
Special stitches:
– Fan: 7 dc in the same stitch.
– Half fan: 4 dc in the same stitch. At the start of a row, this is ch 3 (counts as 1 dc) plus 3 dc in the same stitch.
– Picot: ch 3, sl st in the 3rd ch from hook.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge matters a lot in thread work, because small differences add up across 12 rows. Make the body through Row 2 first and measure it before you go on.
- Base gauge: 10 sc = 1 in (2.5 cm) in size 10 thread on a 1.75 mm hook.
- Checkpoint 1 (after Row 1): The foundation is 19 sc, about 1.9 in (4.8 cm) wide.
- Checkpoint 2 (after Row 2): The row of 3 fans is about 2.25 in (5.7 cm) wide. One fan repeat measures about 0.75 in (1.9 cm).
- Checkpoint 3 (after Row 9): The body is 2.5 in (6.4 cm) at its widest and about 3 in (7.6 cm) tall.
- Checkpoint 4 (after Row 12): The body is about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall.
- Checkpoint 5 (after the border): The ornament is 3.5 in (8.9 cm) x 4 in (10.2 cm).
If your piece is too big: change to a 1.5 mm hook, or tighten your chain spaces.
If your piece is too small: change to a 2.0 mm hook.
Don’t add or remove stitches to fix the size. The fan repeat depends on the exact counts.
Body
The body is worked flat. Turn at the end of every row.
Row 1 (foundation): Ch 20, sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (19 sc)
Row 2 (RS, fan row): Ch 1, sc in the first sc. Sk 2 sc, fan in the next sc, sk 2 sc, sc in the next sc. Repeat from * to * 2 more times. Turn. (3 fans, 4 sc = 25 sts)
The fans flare slightly wider than the foundation. That flare is what gives the mitten its rounded lower edge.
Row 3 (WS, lattice row): Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc + ch 2). Sc in the 4th (center) dc of the next fan, ch 2, dc in the next sc. Ch 2, sc in the center dc of the next fan, ch 2, dc in the next sc. Repeat from * to * 1 more time. Turn. (4 dc, 3 sc, 6 ch-2 sps = 19 sts)
Each dc now sits above a Row 2 sc, and each sc sits above a fan center.
Row 4 (RS, offset fan row): Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 3 dc in the first dc to make a half fan. Sc in the next sc, fan in the next dc. Repeat from * to * 1 more time. Sc in the next sc, then 4 dc in the 3rd ch of the turning ch to make a half fan. Turn. (2 fans, 2 half fans, 3 sc = 25 sts)
The full fans in this row sit above the Row 2 sc stitches, so they are offset from the fans in the row below. That offset creates the staggered scallop look.
Row 5 (WS, lattice row): Ch 1, sc in the first dc. Ch 2, dc in the next sc. Ch 2, sc in the center dc of the next fan, ch 2, dc in the next sc. Repeat from * to * 1 more time. Ch 2, sc in the top of the turning ch. Turn. (4 sc, 3 dc, 6 ch-2 sps = 19 sts)
Row 6 (RS, fan row): Ch 1, sc in the first sc. Fan in the next dc, sc in the next sc. Repeat from * to * 2 more times. Turn. (3 fans, 4 sc = 25 sts)
This row lines up with Row 2.
Row 7: Repeat Row 3. (19 sts)
Row 8: Repeat Row 4. (25 sts)
Row 9: Repeat Row 5. (19 sts)
Check your measurements now: the body should be 2.5 in (6.4 cm) wide and about 3 in (7.6 cm) tall.
Cuff
Row 10 (RS): Ch 1, sc in the first sc. Then work across: 2 sc in each ch-2 sp, and 1 sc in each dc and sc. Turn. (7 sts worked 1-per-stitch + 12 sc in the 6 spaces = 19 sc)
This row closes the lattice and narrows the top into the cuff.
Row 11 (WS): Ch 4 (counts as 1 tr). Ch 1, sk 1 sc, tr in the next sc. Repeat from * to * across. Turn. (10 tr, 9 ch-1 sps = 19 sts)
These treble posts make the ribbed, “fence-post” cuff.
Row 12 (RS): Ch 1, sc in the first tr. Then work 1 sc in each ch-1 sp and 1 sc in each tr across, ending with a sc in the 4th ch of the turning ch. (19 sc) Fasten off.
The body should now measure about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall.
Thumb
Hold the piece with the RS facing you and the cuff at the top. Work the thumb on the right-hand edge.
Thumb Row 1: Join the thread with a sl st in the side of Row 8 (the top of the half fan) on the right edge. Ch 8, then sl st in the side of the Row 6 sc lower down the same edge. Turn. (1 ch-8 arch)
Thumb Row 2: Work 11 dc into the ch-8 arch, then sl st in the side of Row 8, where you started. (11 dc) Fasten off.
The arch stands about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) out from the body and spans about 1 in (2.5 cm) of the edge. The center stays open, which matches the airy thumb on the finished piece.
Border
Border gauge: 10 sc per 1 in (2.5 cm) along the edges. Spread the stitches into row ends as given below so the edge stays flat.
Use these counts for row ends on the side edges:
– Rows 1, 10, and 12 (sc rows): 1 sc each
– Rows 2–9 (fan and lattice rows) and Row 11 (tr row): 3 sc each
Rnd 1: With RS facing, join the thread in the first sc of Row 12 at the top left corner. Ch 1 and work the sides in this order:
- Top edge: 1 sc in each of the 19 sc of Row 12. (19 sc)
- Right side, going down: Row 12: 1 sc. Row 11: 3 sc. Row 10: 1 sc. Row 9: 3 sc. Then 1 sc in each of the 11 thumb dc. Then Rows 5, 4, 3, and 2: 3 sc each. Row 1: 1 sc. (1 + 3 + 1 + 3 + 11 + 12 + 1 = 32 sc)
- Bottom edge: 1 sc in the bottom corner. Then 1 sc in each of the 19 foundation ch loops. Then 1 sc in the other bottom corner. (19 sc worked 1-per-loop + 2 corner sc = 21 sc)
- Left side, going up: Row 1: 1 sc. Rows 2–9: 3 sc each. Row 10: 1 sc. Row 11: 3 sc. Row 12: 1 sc. (1 + 24 + 1 + 3 + 1 = 30 sc)
Join with a sl st in the first sc. (19 + 32 + 21 + 30 = 102 sc)
On the right side, the 11 thumb stitches replace the 9 row-end sc that Rows 6–8 would otherwise get. The 2 extra corner sc at the bottom round off the lower edge.
Rnd 2 (picot round): Ch 1. Sc in each of the next 2 sc, picot. Repeat from * to * all the way around. Join with a sl st in the first sc. (102 sc + 51 picots) Fasten off.
Why the math works: The picot repeat uses exactly 2 sc, and Rnd 1 has an even total of 102 sc. So 102 ÷ 2 = 51 repeats close the round with no leftover stitch, and the picots are spaced evenly every 0.2 in (0.5 cm). The two border rounds add about 0.25 in (0.6 cm) on each edge:
- Width: 2.5 in body + 0.5 in thumb + 0.5 in border = 3.5 in (8.9 cm)
- Height: 3.5 in body + 0.5 in border = 4 in (10.2 cm)
Hanging Loop
Join the thread with a sl st in the center sc of the top edge, which is the 10th of the 19 top stitches. Ch 35, then sl st in the same sc to form a loop. Work 50 sc over the chain loop, and sl st in the starting sc. Fasten off and weave in the end.
Folded flat, the loop hangs about 1.75 in (4.4 cm).
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends along solid sc stitches, never through the lattice spaces.
- Soak the ornament in fabric stiffener, or mist both sides heavily with spray starch.
- Press out the excess with a towel. Don’t wring it.
- Lay it RS up on the foam board.
- Pin the cuff straight, so the top edge is a 2 in (5.1 cm) line.
- Pin the body sides out to 3 in (7.6 cm) across the widest point, including the border.
- Pin the thumb arch into a smooth curve.
- Pin every picot outward, or at least every second one. This is what makes the edge look beaded.
- Open each fan with a pin so its 7 dc spread evenly.
- Check the full size: 3.5 in (8.9 cm) x 4 in (10.2 cm).
- Let it dry completely, at least 12 hours, before you unpin it.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Rows 2 and 6 each have 3 full fans.
- Rows 4 and 8 each have 2 full fans plus 2 half fans.
- Every lattice row has 19 sts.
- The cuff has 10 evenly spaced treble posts.
- The thumb has 11 dc and stays open in the center.
- Border Rnd 1 has 102 sc: 19 + 32 + 21 + 30.
- Rnd 2 has 51 picots spaced evenly.
- The hanging loop sits at the exact top center.
- The ornament lies flat and measures 3.5 in x 4 in (8.9 cm x 10.2 cm).
Troubleshooting
Fans cup or ruffle: Your dc are too tall for the space. Go down a hook size, or pull up shorter loops.
Lattice rows pull the fans in: Your ch-2 spaces are too tight. Chain a little more loosely.
The cuff flares out: Work Row 11 with ch-1 spaces made firmly. You can also block the cuff pinned straight.
The border ripples: You put too many sc in the row ends. Recount against the per-row guide.
The border cups: You put too few sc in the row ends. Check the 3-sc rows.
The picot round ends with a leftover stitch: Rnd 1 isn’t exactly 102. Count each side against its subtotal.
The thumb droops: Re-stiffen the ornament and pin the arch while it dries.
Care
Spot clean only, with cool water, and re-starch after any washing. Store the ornament flat between tissue paper so the picots and the thumb don’t get crushed.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is short and easy to track:
- Row 1 is 1.9 in (4.8 cm).
- Row 2 is 2.25 in (5.7 cm).
- After Row 9, the body is 2.5 in (6.4 cm) wide and 3 in (7.6 cm) tall.
- After the cuff, it is 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall.
- The thumb adds 0.5 in (1.3 cm).
- The 102-stitch picot border adds 0.25 in (0.6 cm) all around, for a finished ornament of 3.5 in x 4 in (8.9 cm x 10.2 cm).
If you check your size at each of these points, the finished mitten will lie flat and hang straight on the branch. Make a few to fill a whole tree.
Happy crocheting!