This lacy star ornament looks delicate but is quick to make. A hollow five-point frame of cream thread mesh surrounds a large star-shaped opening. A small daisy blooms in each point, and a tiny burgundy poinsettia with sage-green leaves and gold bead centers adds a festive touch on the lower right.
The colors are classic and soft: cream thread for the star, deep burgundy for the poinsettia, sage green for the leaves, and three small gold beads. The style is vintage thread lace that has been simplified so it’s easy to read and repeat.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished star measures 5.5 in (14.0 cm) wide from tip to tip and 5.25 in (13.3 cm) tall. The corded hanging loop adds about 1.5 in (3.8 cm).
You’ll work the star in one piece, in four rounds around a foundation chain ring. Round 2 builds the daisies right into the mesh, Round 3 shapes the points and valleys, and Round 4 is the sc edging and hanging loop. Then you crochet a two-layer poinsettia and two leaves, block the star, and sew on the appliqué.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 5.5 in (14.0 cm) wide × 5.25 in (13.3 cm) tall, plus a 1.5 in (3.8 cm) loop
- Skill level: Intermediate (thread work, building stitches into the round as you go)
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Size 10 crochet thread (Lace, weight 0)
- Hook: 1.75 mm (US steel 6)
- Number of pieces: 1 star frame, plus a small sewn-on appliqué (2 poinsettia layers and 2 leaves)
- Layout: Single ornament, no assembly grid
- Piece size: Star 5.5 in (14.0 cm) wide; poinsettia 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across; leaves 0.75 in (1.9 cm) long
- Size before border: About 5.25 in (13.3 cm) wide × 5 in (12.7 cm) tall after Round 3
- Border depth: About 1/8 in (0.3 cm) per side
Materials
Use mercerized cotton crochet thread in size 10. It holds starch well and keeps the points crisp. Avoid fuzzy or acrylic thread, because the mesh will blur and the tips won’t stay sharp.
- Cream/ivory: 8 g (about 29 m)
- Deep burgundy/red: 2 g (about 7 m)
- Sage green: 1 g (about 4 m)
These amounts include a safety margin of roughly 25%.
Tools:
– 1.75 mm (US steel 6) crochet hook
– 3 gold round beads, 4 mm
– Fine sewing needle and cream sewing thread
– Small tapestry needle
– 10 locking stitch markers
– Foam blocking mat and rustproof pins
– Liquid starch or a stiffening spray
– Ruler and scissors
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet
- dc2tog – double crochet 2 together
- sk – skip
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
Special stitch – Daisy (worked in the middle of Round 2): Ch 11, sl st in 6th ch from hook to form a small ring (this leaves a 5-ch stem). Work 6 petals into the ring: [ch 3, dc2tog into ring, ch 3, sl st into ring] 6 times. Sl st in each of the 5 stem chains back to the base. The stem sits between Petal 6 and Petal 1.
Dc2tog into ring: [Yarn over, insert hook into ring, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops] twice, then yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 13 sc = 1 in (2.5 cm) along the Round 1 ring.
Make one Daisy on its own as a test before you start the star. It should measure about 0.6 in (1.5 cm) across. A flat daisy with crisp petals means your tension suits the mesh.
Checkpoints:
– After Round 1: Measure 13 sc. They should span 1 in (2.5 cm).
– After Round 2: Each Daisy is about 0.6 in (1.5 cm) across, and the ch-3 loops lie flat without cupping.
– After Round 3, pinned flat: About 5.25 in (13.3 cm) wide × 5 in (12.7 cm) tall.
– After Round 4, blocked: 5.5 in (14.0 cm) wide × 5.25 in (13.3 cm) tall.
If your piece is too big (more than 5.75 in / 14.6 cm wide), go down to a 1.5 mm hook. If it’s too small (less than 5.25 in / 13.3 cm wide after the border), go up to a 2.0 mm hook. Don’t change any stitch counts, because the shaping depends on them.
Star Frame
Foundation
With cream, ch 120 and join with a sl st to the first ch to form a ring. Check that the chain isn’t twisted.
Round 1 (inner edge)
Ch 1, sc in each ch around, then sl st in the first sc. (120 sc)
Place markers in sc 1, 13, 25, 37, 49, 61, 73, 85, 97, and 109. Those 10 sc are the corners: 1 corner + 11 side sts, repeated 10 times, = 120.
- Tip corners (point toward the outer star tips): sc 1, 25, 49, 73, 97
- Valley corners: sc 13, 37, 61, 85, 109
The ring is still round at this stage. Rounds 3 and 4 and the blocking turn it into a star.
Round 2 (mesh and daisies)
Ch 1, sc in sc 1 (tip), work a Daisy, sc in the same sc.
[Ch 3, sk 2 sc, sc in next sc] 8 times. Your last sc lands on the next tip corner. Work a Daisy, then sc in the same tip sc. Repeat from * to * 3 more times.
[Ch 3, sk 2 sc, sc in next sc] 7 times, ch 3, sk 2 sc, sl st in the first sc. Fasten off.
Count: 40 ch-3 loops (4 per side × 10 sides), 5 Daisies, and 45 sc (30 side sc + 5 valley sc + 10 tip sc). Every valley corner gets exactly one sc, because the third loop of each side always ends on it.
Loop names for Round 3: On each point, the 4 loops coming down after a Daisy are b1–b4, with b4 ending at the valley. The 4 loops going up toward the next Daisy are a1–a4, with a4 ending at the tip.
Round 3 (shaping points and valleys)
Point sequence: Ch 4, sc in tip of Petal 2, ch 3, sc in tip of Petal 3, ch 5 (tip loop), sc in tip of Petal 4, ch 3, sc in tip of Petal 5, ch 4. Petals 1 and 6, the two next to the stem, stay free.
Join cream with an sc in loop b1 after the first Daisy (Daisy 1 marks the top point).
[Ch 5, sc in next loop] 3 times (ending in b4), ch 2, sc in a1 (valley made), [ch 5, sc in next loop] 3 times (ending in a4), work the point sequence, sc in b1 of the next point. Repeat from * to * 4 more times. On the last repeat, end the point sequence with ch 4 and sl st in the first sc instead of working the final sc. Fasten off.
The short ch-2 pulls each valley in, and the ch-5 tip loop pushes each point out. This round creates the star silhouette.
Count per point: 12 sc (8 in loops + 4 in petals) and 12 spaces (1 ch-2, 6 ch-5 along the sides, 1 ch-5 tip, 2 ch-4, 2 ch-3).
Round total: 60 sc, 60 spaces.
Checkpoint: Pin it flat. It should be about 5.25 in (13.3 cm) wide.
Border (Round 4 and Hanging Loop)
Border gauge: 13 sc = 1 in (2.5 cm) along the outer edge. Each edge from tip to valley should be about 2 in (5.1 cm).
Round 4 (outer edge)
Join cream with an sc in the tip ch-5 of the top point, then 2 sc in the same space. Ch 40 for the hanging loop, then 3 sc in the same space.
3 sc in ch-3, 4 sc in ch-4, 5 sc in each of the next 3 ch-5, 1 sc in ch-2 (valley), 5 sc in each of the next 3 ch-5, 4 sc in ch-4, 3 sc in ch-3, (3 sc, ch 2, 3 sc) in the tip ch-5. Repeat from * to * 3 more times.
Then 3 sc in ch-3, 4 sc in ch-4, 5 sc in each of the next 3 ch-5, 1 sc in ch-2, 5 sc in each of the next 3 ch-5, 4 sc in ch-4, 3 sc in ch-3, sl st in the first sc.
Count per edge (one tip to the next valley): 3 (half of tip) + 3 + 4 + 15 = 25 sc. Each of the 5 valleys adds 1 sc shared by its two edges.
Round total: 10 × 25 + 5 = 255 sc, plus 4 ch-2 tips and 1 ch-40 loop.
Hanging Loop Cording
Sl st in the next 2 sc to reach the base of the loop. Work 40 sc into the ch-40 loop, then sl st in the next sc. Fasten off and weave in the ends.
The loop hangs about 1.5 in (3.8 cm).
Why the math works: Every Round 3 space gets as many sc as it has chains, so the edging lies flat. The only exception is the ch-2 valley, which gets 1 sc to keep the inward corner tight. The tip’s ch-2 between two 3-sc groups gives a sharp outward point. With 25.5 sc per edge (25 + half a valley) at 13 sc per inch, each edge is about 2 in (5.1 cm). Five points with edges that long come out to 5.5 in (14.0 cm) wide.
Poinsettia Appliqué
Back Layer (burgundy)
Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 1, 10 sc in the ring, sl st in the first sc. (10 sc)
Round 2: Ch 7, then work back along the chain starting in the 2nd ch from the hook: sl st, sc, hdc, dc, dc, tr. Sk 1 sc, sl st in the next sc. Repeat from * to * 4 more times. (5 petals)
The sl st at the end of each chain gives every petal a pointed tip.
Fasten off, leaving a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail. Layer size: 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across.
Front Layer (burgundy)
Round 1: Same as the back layer. (10 sc)
Round 2: Ch 6, then starting in the 2nd ch from the hook: sl st, sc, hdc, dc, dc. Sk 1 sc, sl st in the next sc. Repeat from * to * 4 more times. (5 petals)
Fasten off. Layer size: 1 in (2.5 cm) across.
Leaves (sage green, make 2)
Ch 10. Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook: sl st, sc, hdc, dc, dc, dc, hdc, sc, 3 sc in the last ch.
Working in the opposite side of the chain: sc, hdc, dc, dc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st. Ch 2 and sl st in the first sl st to sharpen the tip.
Fasten off. Each leaf is 0.75 in (1.9 cm) long.
Vein: With a single strand of sage thread, backstitch a line down the center of each leaf.
Assembly of the Appliqué
- Stack the front layer on the back layer, turned so its petals sit between the back petals. You should see 10 points.
- Sew the two centers together.
- Sew 3 gold beads in a tight cluster in the center.
- Tuck one leaf behind the upper right of the flower and one behind the lower left, with their tips sticking out. Tack them down.
Final Blocking
- Wet the star in cool water and roll it in a towel to remove extra water.
- Brush or dip it in liquid starch, then blot.
- Lay it on the foam mat. Pin the 5 tip ch-2 spaces so each is 2.75 in (7.0 cm) from the center.
- Pin the 5 valleys about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) from the center.
- Pin the inner opening’s 5 tip corners so the opening measures 2.5 in (6.4 cm) across.
- Open each Daisy with a pin through its ring.
- Check the measurements: 5.5 in (14.0 cm) wide × 5.25 in (13.3 cm) tall.
- Let it dry completely, at least 12 hours.
- Unpin. Sew the poinsettia onto the lower-right part of the frame, between the right point and the lower-right point, overlapping the band and the inner opening a little. Stitch through the back layer only.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Round 1 has 120 sc and all 10 corner markers are in the right places.
- There are 5 Daisies, each with 6 complete petals.
- Round 3 has 60 sc and 60 spaces.
- Round 4 has 255 sc, with 4 ch-2 tips and the corded loop at the top.
- The star measures 5.5 in (14.0 cm) × 5.25 in (13.3 cm).
- All points are sharp and the valleys turn inward cleanly.
- The poinsettia shows 10 petal tips, 3 beads, and 2 leaves.
- Every end is woven in on the back.
Troubleshooting
- Points are blunt: Re-pin the tip ch-2 spaces firmly and starch again. Make sure you worked 3 sc on each side of the tip ch-2.
- Valleys are bulging: Check that each valley has a ch-2 in Round 3 and a single sc in Round 4.
- Frame is ruffling: Your sc tension is loose. Go down a hook size, or work 4 sc into each ch-5 along the sides only, and recount.
- Frame is cupping: Your tension is tight. Go up a hook size.
- Daisy is twisted: Make sure the stem chains aren’t twisted before you sl st back down them.
- The appliqué is pulling the frame: Sew through the back layer only, with loose stitches.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, then reshape and pin it flat to dry. Starch again if you want firmer points. Store it flat between tissue paper.
Final Notes
Here is the measurement chain:
– Round 1 gauge: 13 sc = 1 in (2.5 cm), on 120 sc
– Round 2: 40 loops and 5 Daisies
– Round 3: 60 spaces; star about 5.25 in (13.3 cm) wide
– Round 4: 255 sc, about 2 in (5.1 cm) per edge
– Blocked star: 5.5 in (14.0 cm) × 5.25 in (13.3 cm), plus a 1.5 in (3.8 cm) loop
If each checkpoint matches, the finished ornament will too.
Happy crocheting!