Striped crocheted lace curtain panels in cream, green, and rust tones with tassels hang from a black rod.

Garden Arch Flower Strip Curtain Crochet Pattern

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This curtain is made of 10 airy strips. Each strip is a column of small flower squares with a scalloped chain-loop edge and a pointed tip that ends in a full tassel. The strips hang side by side from clip rings, so light, air and people pass between them easily.

The palette is soft and earthy: 4 creamy off-white strips, 4 sage green strips and 2 rust orange strips. The style is relaxed boho with a little garden-cottage charm. It works across a doorway, in front of a window or as a room divider.

This pattern uses US crochet terms. Each finished strip measures 5 in (12.7 cm) wide and 79.5 in (201.9 cm) long from the top edge to the point. The tassel adds another 6 in (15.2 cm), so each strip is 85.5 in (217.2 cm) long in total.

How it’s made: you crochet 22 flower motifs for each strip and join them in a single column with slip stitches. Then you work a triangular tip in rows off the bottom motif and add a two-round border. Finally, you attach a tassel at the point. Each strip is finished on its own, and the strips are only grouped together when you hang them.

Finished Size and Construction

  • Finished strip size: 5 in x 79.5 in (12.7 cm x 201.9 cm), plus a 6 in (15.2 cm) tassel
  • Curtain width: about 68 in (172.7 cm) with 10 strips spaced 2 in (5.1 cm) apart
  • Skill level: Easy intermediate
  • Terminology: US
  • Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
  • Hook: US H-8 (5.0 mm)
  • Number of pieces: 220 motifs, which make 10 strips of 22 motifs each
  • Layout: 1 motif wide x 22 motifs long per strip; strips hang separately
  • Motif size: 3.5 in (8.9 cm) square, 13 sc per side
  • Strip size before border: 3.5 in x 77 in (8.9 cm x 195.6 cm)
  • Tip depth: 2 in (5.1 cm)
  • Border depth: 0.75 in (1.9 cm) on each long side; 0.25 in (0.6 cm) at the top and at the point

Materials

Choose a smooth, mercerized or combed worsted-weight cotton. Cotton keeps the flower clusters crisp and lets the strips hang straight without stretching much. Avoid very splitty yarn, because you will be working into chain spaces often.

  • Cream: 1,200 m (about 660 g), enough for 4 strips
  • Sage green: 1,200 m (about 660 g), enough for 4 strips
  • Rust orange: 600 m (about 330 g), enough for 2 strips

Each strip uses about 300 m (about 165 g), including its tassel. These quantities already include a margin of roughly 10% for swatching and joining.

Tools:

  • US H-8 (5.0 mm) crochet hook
  • Tapestry needle
  • Sharp scissors
  • Stitch markers
  • Tape measure
  • A stiff card, 6.5 in (16.5 cm) tall, for wrapping tassels
  • Blocking mats and rust-proof pins
  • 10 curtain clip rings and a curtain rod

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch – chain
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • sc – single crochet
  • dc – double crochet
  • sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
  • sc3tog – single crochet 3 together
  • sk – skip
  • sp – space
  • st(s) – stitch(es)
  • RS / WS – right side / wrong side

Special stitches:

  • Beginning cluster (beg cl): Ch 2, then work 2 dc in the same st, leaving the last loop of each dc on the hook. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.
  • Cluster (cl): Work 3 dc in the same st, leaving the last loop of each dc on the hook. Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops.

Gauge and Checkpoints

Make one complete motif before anything else, and block it lightly. All the later measurements depend on this one square.

Gauge: 1 motif = 3.5 in (8.9 cm) square, with 13 sc per side after Round 4.

Check the motif against these measurements as you go:

  • After Round 1: 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across
  • After Round 2: 2.25 in (5.7 cm) across, point to point
  • After Round 3: 3 in (7.6 cm) square
  • After Round 4: 3.5 in (8.9 cm) square

If your motif is too big (over 3.75 in / 9.5 cm), go down to a 4.5 mm hook. If it’s too small (under 3.25 in / 8.3 cm), go up to a 5.5 mm hook. A difference of just 0.25 in (0.6 cm) per motif adds up to 5.5 in (14.0 cm) over the 22 motifs in a strip.

Close-up of rust-orange crocheted lace with interlocking loops forming a geometric lattice pattern.

Flower Motif

Make 22 motifs for each strip. Work every round with the RS facing you.

Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 3 (this counts as the first dc), then work 15 dc in the ring. Join with a sl st to the top of the ch-3. (16 dc)

Round 2: Work a beg cl in the same st, then ch 3 and sk the next st. Work a cl in the next st, ch 3, sk the next st. Repeat from * to * 6 more times. Join with a sl st to the top of the beg cl. (8 clusters, 8 ch-3 sps)

This round makes the eight-petal flower.

Round 3: Sl st into the first ch-3 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc), then work (2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in the same sp to make the first corner. Ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp, ch 2, then work (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in the next ch-3 sp. Repeat from * to * 2 more times. Ch 2, sc in the last ch-3 sp, ch 2. Join with a sl st to the top of the ch-3. (24 dc, 4 sc, 8 ch-2 sps, 4 corner ch-3 sps)

The ch-2 sps leave small open gaps on each side of the flower, which gives the strip its lacy look.

Round 4: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each dc, 2 sc in each ch-2 sp and 1 sc in each sc. In each corner ch-3 sp, work (sc, ch 2, sc). Join with a sl st to the first sc and fasten off.

Each side has 11 sc between corner spaces (3 + 2 + 1 + 2 + 3). Adding the corner sc at each end gives 13 sc per side. In total: 52 sc + 4 corner ch-2 sps.

The 13-per-side count already includes both corner stitches. Don’t count them a second time.

Make All Pieces

Quantities:

  • Cream: 88 motifs (4 strips x 22)
  • Sage green: 88 motifs (4 strips x 22)
  • Rust orange: 44 motifs (2 strips x 22)
  • Total: 220 motifs

Layout on the rod (left to right):

Strip:   1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  10
Color:   C  G  R  C  G  C  G  C  R  G
Motifs:  22 22 22 22 22 22 22 22 22 22

Each strip (1 column):
[M1]   <- top, clipped to ring
[M2]
...
[M22]
 \/    <- pointed tip + tassel

C = cream, G = sage green, R = rust orange

Joining

Join the motifs into a column using a slip-stitch seam on the WS. Join the motifs of one strip only; never join one strip to another.

  1. Hold 2 motifs with RS together, lining up the bottom edge of the first motif with the top edge of the second.
  2. Join the yarn through both corner ch-2 sps at one end. Sl st through both layers in each of the 13 matching sc pairs, then sl st through the corner ch-2 sps at the other end.
  3. Work stitch to stitch: 13 sc on one motif meet 13 sc on the other. Don’t add or skip any stitches.
  4. Fasten off and join the next motif in the same way.

You will have 21 seams in each strip.

Tension: Keep your sl sts loose, about as wide as a sc. Once the seam is opened flat, it should measure 3.5 in (8.9 cm), the same as the motif. If it puckers, go up one hook size for joining only.

Checkpoint: 4 joined motifs should measure 14 in (35.6 cm). A full strip of 22 motifs should measure 3.5 in x 77 in (8.9 cm x 195.6 cm).

Pointed Tip

Work the tip in rows off the bottom edge of motif 22, with the RS facing you.

Row 1: Join the yarn in the right corner ch-2 sp of the bottom edge. Ch 1, then sc in the same sp. Sc in each of the 13 sc, then sc in the left corner ch-2 sp. (15 sc)

Rows 2–7: Ch 1 and turn. Sc2tog, sc in each st to the last 2 sts, then sc2tog. Each row has 2 fewer sc than the row before. (13, 11, 9, 7, 5, 3 sc)

Row 8: Ch 1, turn, sc3tog. (1 sc) Do not fasten off.

The tip is 8 rows, or 2 in (5.1 cm), deep, with 8 row-ends along each slanted side.

Border

Border gauge: Round 1 sc is worked at the same 13 sc per 3.5 in (8.9 cm) gauge as the motif. Round 2 loops stand 0.5 in (1.3 cm) tall.

Round 1 (all around): Ch 1 and work 3 sc in the single st at the point. Then work along the strip:

  • Left slanted edge: 8 sc, 1 in each row-end
  • Left long side: 286 sc, 1 in each motif sc (22 x 13). Pass over the joined ch-2 sps at the seams without working into them.
  • Top left corner ch-2 sp: 3 sc
  • Top edge: 13 sc
  • Top right corner ch-2 sp: 3 sc
  • Right long side: 286 sc
  • Right slanted edge: 8 sc

Join with a sl st to the first sc and fasten off.

Round 1 count: (13 + 572 + 16 + 1 = 602 sc worked 1 per existing stitch or row-end) + (6 sc in the 2 top corner sps) + (2 extra sc at the point) = 610 sc.

Round 2 (long sides only): With the RS facing you, join the yarn in the first of the 286 long-side sc on the right side, just below the top corner group. Ch 1 and sc in the same st. Ch 4, sk 2 sts, sc in the next st. Repeat from * to * 95 times in total. The last sc lands in the 286th st. Fasten off, then repeat on the left long side. (95 ch-4 loops per long side)

Why the math works: The first sc uses 1 st, and each repeat uses 3 sts. 1 + (95 x 3) = 286. No stitches are added at the seams, because each long side is exactly 22 motifs x 13 sc.

The top and the tip stay as plain sc, so the top edge clips neatly and the point stays sharp.

Size check: The finished width is 3.5 in + (2 x 0.75 in) = 5 in (12.7 cm). The length is 0.25 in + 77 in + 2 in + 0.25 in = 79.5 in (201.9 cm).

Tassel

  1. Wrap yarn 20 times around the 6.5 in (16.5 cm) card, then cut along one edge. This gives you 20 strands, each 13 in (33.0 cm) long.
  2. Fold the bundle in half. Pull the fold through the center sc at the point with your hook, then pass the ends through the loop to make a lark’s head knot. You now have 40 tassel ends.
  3. Wrap a 20 in (50.8 cm) length of yarn tightly around the bundle, 1 in (2.5 cm) below the point. Tie it off and bury the ends inside the tassel.
  4. Trim the tassel evenly to 6 in (15.2 cm) below the point.

Final Blocking

  1. Weave in all ends before blocking. Hide them inside the sc rounds, not across the open gaps.
  2. Soak the strip in cool water for 15 minutes, then press out the water in a towel. Don’t wring it.
  3. Lay it flat on mats and pin the long edges straight at 3.5 in (8.9 cm) between the motif edges.
  4. Pin out each ch-4 loop into an even scallop so the edge reaches 5 in (12.7 cm) in total.
  5. Pin the tip into a symmetrical point 2 in (5.1 cm) deep.
  6. Comb the tassel straight and let it dry hanging down over the mat edge.
  7. Let the strip dry completely, then check that it measures 79.5 in (201.9 cm) long.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

  • Each motif is 3.5 in (8.9 cm) square, with 13 sc per side.
  • All 8 petals sit evenly, with no twisted clusters.
  • There are 21 seams per strip, lying flat and not puckered.
  • The joined strip measures 77 in (195.6 cm) before the border.
  • The tip has 8 rows and ends in 1 st.
  • Border Round 1 has 610 sc, and Round 2 has 95 loops on each long side.
  • Each strip measures 5 in x 79.5 in (12.7 cm x 201.9 cm).
  • Tassels are all trimmed to the same 6 in (15.2 cm).
  • The 10 strips follow the order C, G, R, C, G, C, G, C, R, G.

Troubleshooting

  • The motif cups: Round 2’s ch-3 sps are too tight. Loosen the chains, or work ch 4 instead.
  • The motif ruffles: Your dc groups are too loose. Go down a hook size for Round 3.
  • The strip is too long: Your seams are stretching it. Re-join them with firmer sl sts, or block it shorter.
  • The strips are different lengths: Measure each motif before joining and swap any outliers.
  • Round 2 doesn’t end on st 286: Count Round 1 again. Each long side must have exactly 286 sc.
  • The point is lopsided: Check that every decrease row starts and ends with a sc2tog.
  • The strip curls along the edges: Block it again, pinning every loop.

Care

Hand wash in cool water with a mild detergent and dry flat or hanging. Cotton can shrink slightly in a hot dryer, so avoid high heat.

Crocheted curtain panels in green, cream, and rust with tassels frame an arched window overlooking a garden.

Final Notes

The measurement chain is simple. Each motif is 3.5 in (8.9 cm) with 13 sc per side. 22 motifs make a 77 in (195.6 cm) column. The tip adds 2 in (5.1 cm), the border brings the strip to 5 in x 79.5 in (12.7 cm x 201.9 cm), and the tassel finishes it at 85.5 in (217.2 cm). Make 10 strips, clip them to the rod 2 in (5.1 cm) apart, and you have a curtain about 68 in (172.7 cm) wide.

Happy crocheting!

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