This little letter E keychain looks like a monogram that has been left out in a spring garden. The body is soft butter-cream single crochet with a rounded, cushioned edge. A cluster of flowers and leaves is tucked against the spine: a powder-blue daisy with a golden center, a small sunny-yellow bloom with a white heart, and two sage-green leaves behind them.
The style is simple and sweet. It works well as a personalized gift, a bag charm, or a way to mark your own keys. All instructions use US crochet terms.
The finished keychain measures 3.2 in wide × 4.6 in tall (8.1 cm × 11.7 cm), not counting the ring.
You crochet the letter flat in one piece, from the bottom row to the top row. Each arm is added with a short chain. A single round of single crochet then outlines the whole letter. Last, you make four small appliqués, sew them on, and attach the hardware.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 3.2 in × 4.6 in (8.1 cm × 11.7 cm)
- Skill level: Easy / advanced beginner
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: DK (#3)
- Hook: 3.5 mm (E-4)
- Number of pieces: 1 letter body plus 4 small appliqués (2 flowers, 2 leaves)
- Layout: Single letter; appliqués grouped on the left side of the spine
- Letter size before border: 2.8 in × 4.2 in (7.1 cm × 10.7 cm)
- Border depth: 0.2 in (0.5 cm) on every edge
- Appliqué sizes: blue flower 1.4 in (3.6 cm), yellow flower 1.0 in (2.5 cm), leaves 1.3 in (3.3 cm) long
Materials
Choose a smooth DK cotton or cotton blend. Cotton keeps its shape on a keyring and shows stitch definition clearly. Avoid fuzzy yarns, because they hide the letter’s outline.
- Butter cream (letter body): 10 g / 23 m
- Powder blue (large flower petals): 3 g / 7 m
- Sage green (leaves): 3 g / 7 m
- Sunny yellow (small flower petals, large flower center): 2 g / 5 m
- Soft white (small flower center): 1 g / 2 m
Tools:
– 3.5 mm (E-4) crochet hook
– Tapestry needle
– Stitch markers (2)
– Gold split ring, 1 in (2.5 cm) across, with a 0.8 in (2.0 cm) chain and a jump ring
– Two pairs of flat-nose pliers
– Blocking mat and rust-proof pins
– Scissors and a ruler
All yarn quantities include a margin for a gauge swatch and weaving in ends.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- MR – magic ring
- RS – right side
Special stitch – standing sc: Begin with a slipknot on your hook. Insert the hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops.
Sc2tog across a corner: Insert the hook in the first named place and pull up a loop. Insert the hook in the second named place and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 20 sc and 20 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) in single crochet worked in rows.
Before starting the letter, make a test swatch. Chain 11, then work 10 sc in each of 10 rows. It should measure 2 in × 2 in (5.1 cm × 5.1 cm). Because 1 stitch and 1 row each measure 0.2 in (0.5 cm), the shape of the E comes out exactly as planned.
Checkpoints while working the letter:
– After Row 4: 2.8 in wide × 0.8 in tall (7.1 cm × 2.0 cm)
– After Row 9: 1.8 in (4.6 cm) tall; spine 1.2 in (3.0 cm) wide
– After Row 12: 2.4 in (6.1 cm) tall; middle arm 2.4 in (6.1 cm) long
– After Row 17: 3.4 in (8.6 cm) tall
– After Row 21: 2.8 in × 4.2 in (7.1 cm × 10.7 cm)
– After the border: 3.2 in × 4.6 in (8.1 cm × 11.7 cm)
If your piece is too big: go down to a 3.25 mm (D-3) hook. If it is too small: go up to a 3.75 mm (F-5) hook. Don’t change the stitch counts, because the border math depends on them.
Letter Body
With butter cream, ch 15.
Bottom arm
Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, turn. (14 sc)
Rows 2–4: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in each st across, turn. (14 sc)
The edge where Row 1 began is the spine edge. Place a marker on it. Rows that start at this edge are odd rows from Row 5 onward; even rows end at it.
Lower spine
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in the first 6 sts, turn. Leave the remaining 8 sts unworked. (6 sc)
Rows 6–9: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (6 sc)
Row 9 ends at the inner edge of the spine.
Middle arm
Row 10: At the end of Row 9, do not turn. Ch 7. Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 5 ch, then sc in each of the 6 spine sts, turn. (12 sc)
Rows 11–12: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (12 sc)
Row 12 ends at the spine edge.
Upper spine
Row 13: Ch 1, sc in the first 6 sts, turn. Leave the remaining 6 sts unworked. (6 sc)
Rows 14–17: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (6 sc)
Top arm
Row 18: At the end of Row 17, do not turn. Ch 9. Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 7 ch, then sc in each of the 6 spine sts, turn. (14 sc)
Rows 19–21: Ch 1, sc in each st across. (14 sc)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Find the right side: Lay the letter so the arms point to the right. The face toward you is the RS, with the spine on the left. Left-handed crocheters will find the RS on the opposite face. This makes no difference to the counts.
Border
The border is one round of sc with the RS facing, worked clockwise. Its gauge is the same as the body. It adds 0.2 in (0.5 cm) on every edge, so the letter grows from 2.8 in × 4.2 in to 3.2 in × 4.6 in (from 7.1 cm × 10.7 cm to 8.1 cm × 11.7 cm).
Border rules:
– Work 1 sc in each stitch, each free chain loop, and each row end.
– At each of the 8 outer corners, work 3 sc in the corner stitch or loop. Those 3 sc wrap around the corner, so skip the row end that sits right beside it.
– At each of the 4 inner corners, work sc2tog across the corner to keep it flat.
Round 1:
1. Join butter cream with a standing sc in the first st of Row 21 (top-left corner). Work 2 more sc in the same st. (3)
2. Sc in the next 12 sts. (15) Work 3 sc in the last st. (18)
3. Sc in the row ends of Rows 20 and 19. (20)
4. Work 3 sc in the first free loop of the Row 18 chain, at the tip. (23) Sc in the next 6 loops. (29)
5. Sc2tog over the last chain loop and the row end of Row 17. (30)
6. Sc in the row ends of Rows 16, 15 and 14. (33)
7. Sc2tog over the row end of Row 13 and the first unworked st of Row 12, beside the spine. (34)
8. Sc in the next 4 sts. (38) Work 3 sc in the last st. (41)
9. Sc in the row end of Row 11. (42)
10. Work 3 sc in the first free loop of the Row 10 chain. (45) Sc in the next 4 loops. (49)
11. Sc2tog over the last chain loop and the row end of Row 9. (50)
12. Sc in the row ends of Rows 8, 7 and 6. (53)
13. Sc2tog over the row end of Row 5 and the first unworked st of Row 4, beside the spine. (54)
14. Sc in the next 6 sts. (60) Work 3 sc in the last st. (63)
15. Sc in the row ends of Rows 3 and 2. (65)
16. Work 3 sc in the first free loop of the foundation chain (bottom-right corner). (68) Sc in the next 12 loops. (80) Work 3 sc in the last loop. (83)
17. Sc in the row ends of Rows 2 through 20. (102)
18. Sl st to the first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends. (102 sc total)
Why the math works: Every free edge position gets one stitch. The edges have 56 stitch and chain positions:
– top edge: 14
– bottom edge: 14
– top-arm chain: 8
– middle-arm top: 6
– middle-arm chain: 6
– bottom-arm top: 8
They also have 42 row ends:
– outer edge: 21
– arm tips: 4 + 3 + 4 = 11
– spine gaps: 5 + 5 = 10
That makes 98 positions. The 8 row ends next to corners are skipped, which leaves 90. Each of the 8 outer corners adds 2 sc, for +16 (106). Each of the 4 inner sc2tog stitches removes 1, for −4. The total is 102.
The segment totals match:
– Top edge: 18
– Top-arm tip: 2
– Top-arm underside to Row 17: 12
– Upper spine gap and middle-arm top: 11
– Middle-arm tip: 1
– Middle-arm underside to Row 9: 8
– Lower spine gap and bottom-arm top: 13
– Bottom-arm tip: 2
– Bottom edge: 18
– Outer edge: 19
Flower and Leaf Appliqués
Large blue flower (make 1)
– Rnd 1: With sunny yellow, MR, 8 sc in the ring, sl st to the first sc. Pull the ring closed. (8 sc) Fasten off.
– Rnd 2: Join powder blue in any st. In the same st, work ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st. In each remaining st, work sl st, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st. (8 petals) Fasten off and leave a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail.
– Size: 1.4 in (3.6 cm) across.
Small yellow flower (make 1)
– Rnd 1: With soft white, MR, 5 sc in the ring, sl st to the first sc. (5 sc) Fasten off.
– Rnd 2: Join sunny yellow in any st. In the same st, work ch 1, 2 hdc, ch 1, sl st. In each remaining st, work sl st, ch 1, 2 hdc, ch 1, sl st. (5 petals) Fasten off and leave a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail.
– Size: 1.0 in (2.5 cm) across.
Leaf (make 2)
– With sage green, ch 8.
– Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, work sc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, sc. (6 sts)
– Work 3 sc in the last ch.
– Rotate the piece. Along the other side of the chain, work sc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, sc. (15 sts total)
– Ch 2 and sl st in the first ch-2 to form a pointed tip. Fasten off and leave a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail.
– The chain forms a natural center vein.
– Size: 1.3 in (3.3 cm) long and 0.7 in (1.8 cm) wide.
Assembly
- Lay the letter RS up.
- Leaf 1: Place it at the height of the middle arm, about 2.7 in (6.9 cm) below the top edge. Point it up and to the left so its tip sticks out about 0.3 in (0.8 cm) past the outer edge.
- Leaf 2: Place it below Leaf 1, pointing left.
- Small yellow flower: Center it over the base of Leaf 1, level with the middle arm.
- Large blue flower: Place it directly below, centered about 1.1 in (2.8 cm) above the bottom edge, so it slightly overlaps the yellow flower and the base of Leaf 2.
- Sew the leaves first, through their center veins. Then sew each flower around its center. Tack the petal tips lightly so they lie flat.
- Hardware: Open the jump ring with pliers. Pass it through the corner stitch at the top-left of the border, add the end of the chain, and close it fully.
Final Blocking
- Lightly mist the keychain with water.
- Pin it on a blocking mat at 3.2 in × 4.6 in (8.1 cm × 11.7 cm).
- Pin all 8 outer corners first. Then pin the 4 inner corners to keep the gaps square.
- Check that the gaps between the arms measure 0.6 in (1.5 cm).
- Smooth the petals and leaves flat with your fingers.
- Leave it to dry completely before you unpin it.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- The letter measures 3.2 in × 4.6 in (8.1 cm × 11.7 cm).
- The border has exactly 102 sc and lies flat with no ruffling.
- The middle arm is 0.4 in (1.0 cm) shorter than the top and bottom arms.
- All 4 inner corners are crisp and square.
- The flowers and leaves are secure and their tips don’t curl.
- The jump ring is fully closed and the ring hangs straight.
- All ends are woven in on the wrong side.
Troubleshooting
- Border ruffles: You probably worked into a row end next to a corner. Skip those row ends as written.
- Inner corners pucker: Make sure you used sc2tog at all 4 inner corners.
- Arm chain twisted: Before working back along a chain, check that it lies flat.
- Letter leans: Count 6 spine sts in every spine row, and keep the ch 1 at the start of each row out of the count.
- Petals cup upward: Block the flower flat, or loosen the ch 2 parts of each petal.
Care
Hand wash in cool water and lay flat to dry. Keep the metal hardware dry wherever possible to prevent tarnish.
Final Notes
Everything in this pattern follows one measurement chain. A 2 in (5.1 cm) swatch confirms the gauge. The gauge produces a 2.8 in × 4.2 in (7.1 cm × 10.7 cm) letter. The 102-stitch border adds 0.2 in (0.5 cm) on every edge for a finished size of 3.2 in × 4.6 in (8.1 cm × 11.7 cm). If you check each stage as you go, the flowers will sit exactly where they should.
Happy crocheting!