Crocheted tissue holders in sage green and cream with pink roses, white daisies, and hanging ring.

Garden Trellis Bag Holder Crochet Pattern

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The Garden Trellis Bag Holder is a tall, tubular grocery bag holder made of open square mesh, with a solid cream base, cream bands at the top and bottom, and a flower cluster sewn to the front. Two tapered tabs reach up from the top and wrap around a wooden ring, so it hangs from a cabinet hook. You stuff bags in through the open top and pull them out one at a time through an oval opening near the bottom.

The pattern comes in two colorways. Colorway A has a sage green mesh with dusty rose and blush rolled roses. Colorway B has a latte beige mesh with cream five-petal daisies, gold centers, and small cream buds. Both use cream bands and leaf green leaves. The style is soft cottage kitchen: practical, but pretty enough to leave on display. You can make one holder or one of each colorway to hang as a pair.

This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder is about 7.5 in (19.1 cm) wide when flattened and about 18.5 in (47.0 cm) long from the base to the top of the tabs, not counting the ring.

Construction is simple. You crochet a flat circle base, then work straight up in joined rounds: a solid band, then the mesh body with the opening built in, then a solid top band. Two hanging tabs are worked in rows from the top band. You make the flowers and leaves separately and sew them on after blocking.

Finished Size and Construction

  • Finished size: 7.5 in (19.1 cm) wide flattened, 18.5 in (47.0 cm) long without the ring
  • Skill level: Easy-intermediate
  • Terminology: US
  • Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
  • Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
  • Number of pieces: 1 holder body, plus small flower and leaf appliqués
  • Layout: One tube, worked in the round from the base up
  • Base diameter: 4.8 in (12.2 cm)
  • Body height before top band: about 13.5 in (34.3 cm)
  • Top band depth: about 1.5 in (3.8 cm)

Materials

Use 100% cotton or a cotton blend. Cotton keeps its shape when it’s full of bags, and it washes well. Avoid very splitty yarn, because the mesh shows every stitch. Quantities below are for one holder.

Colorway A (sage)
– Sage green (MC): 65 g, about 110 m
– Cream (CC): 35 g, about 60 m
– Dusty rose: 10 g, about 17 m
– Blush: 8 g, about 14 m
– Leaf green: 5 g, about 9 m

Colorway B (latte)
– Latte beige (MC): 65 g, about 110 m
– Cream (CC, includes petals and buds): 45 g, about 77 m
– Gold: 3 g, about 5 m
– Leaf green: 5 g, about 9 m

Tools
– 5.0 mm (H-8) hook
– One 2.5 in (6.4 cm) wooden ring, natural or painted blush
– Tapestry needle
– 6 locking stitch markers
– Scissors, measuring tape, rust-proof pins

All yarn quantities include a margin of about 20% for swatching and yarn tails.

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch: chain
  • sl st: slip stitch
  • sc: single crochet
  • hdc: half double crochet
  • dc: double crochet
  • sc2tog: single crochet 2 together
  • sp: space
  • st(s): stitch(es)
  • BLO: back loop only
  • MC / CC: main color / contrast color

Special stitch (bud bobble): (Yarn over, insert hook in ring, pull up a loop) 4 times, then yarn over and pull through all 9 loops on hook.

Mesh square: 1 dc plus 1 ch-1 sp. Each square is 2 sts wide.

Gauge and Checkpoints

  • Single crochet: 16 sts and 18 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm)
  • Mesh: 8 mesh squares (16 sts) and 7 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm)

Make the base (Rounds 1–10) first and use it as your gauge swatch. Then check these measurements as you go:

  1. After Round 10: The base measures 4.8 in (12.2 cm) across and lies flat.
  2. After Round 17: The tube measures 7.5 in (19.1 cm) wide when flattened.
  3. After Round 38: The mesh section is 12 in (30.5 cm) tall.
  4. After Round 45: The body is about 15 in (38.1 cm) tall.

If your base is more than 0.25 in (0.6 cm) too big, go down half a hook size. If it’s too small, go up half a size. If the base is right but the mesh comes out too tall, crochet the mesh a little more tightly or leave out one plain mesh round above the opening.

Three crocheted fabric roses in pink, cream, and mauve with olive leaves on a sage-green mesh weave background.

Pattern

Part 1: Base (CC)

Work in continuous rounds without joining. Move a marker up at the start of each round.

  • Round 1: Make a magic ring and work 6 sc into it. (6)
  • Round 2: 2 sc in each st. (12)
  • Round 3: Sc 1, 2 sc in next 6 times. (18)
  • Round 4: Sc 2, 2 sc in next 6 times. (24)
  • Round 5: Sc 3, 2 sc in next 6 times. (30)
  • Round 6: Sc 4, 2 sc in next 6 times. (36)
  • Round 7: Sc 5, 2 sc in next 6 times. (42)
  • Round 8: Sc 6, 2 sc in next 6 times. (48)
  • Round 9: Sc 7, 2 sc in next 6 times. (54)
  • Round 10: Sc 8, 2 sc in next 6 times, then sl st in first st. (60)

Checkpoint: 4.8 in (12.2 cm) across.

Part 2: Bottom Band (CC)

From here on, join each round with a sl st and start each round with ch 1. The ch 1 doesn’t count as a stitch.

  • Round 11: Sc in BLO of each st around. (60) This turns the work from the flat base up into the sides.
  • Rounds 12–17: Sc in each st around. (60)

Fasten off CC. Checkpoint: 7.5 in (19.1 cm) wide when flattened, and the band is about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) tall.

Part 3: Mesh Body with Opening (MC)

  • Round 18: Join MC. Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), skip next st, dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st 29 times, then sl st in 3rd ch of beginning ch-4. (30 dc and 30 ch-1 sps = 60 sts)
  • Round 19: Ch 4, dc in next dc, ch 1 29 times, then join. (30 mesh squares)

Opening rows. Work the next three rows back and forth instead of in the round. This leaves a gap of 8 mesh squares.

  • Row 20: Ch 4, dc in next dc, ch 1 21 times, dc in next dc, turn. (23 dc and 22 sps; 7 dc left unworked)
  • Row 21: Ch 4, dc in next dc, ch 1 21 times, dc in 3rd ch of turning ch, turn. (23 dc and 22 sps)
  • Row 22: Repeat Row 21, but don’t turn at the end. (23 dc and 22 sps)
  • Close the tube: Ch 15, then sl st in 3rd ch of Row 22’s beginning ch-4.
  • Round 23: Ch 4, dc in next dc, ch 1 22 times. Then work along the ch-15: skip 1 ch, dc in next ch, ch 1 7 times. Skip the last ch and join. (1 + 22 + 7 = 30 dc and 30 sps)
  • Rounds 24–38: Ch 4, dc in next dc, ch 1 29 times, then join. (30 mesh squares)

Fasten off MC. Checkpoint: The mesh is 12 in (30.5 cm) tall, and the opening is about 4 in (10.2 cm) wide and 1.75 in (4.4 cm) tall.

Part 4: Flowers and Leaves

Large rolled rose (Colorway A): Make 2 in dusty rose and 1 in blush.

  • Ch 26.
  • Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (25)
  • Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, skip 1, 5 dc in next, skip 1, sc in next 6 times. (6 shells, 37 sts)
  • Cut the yarn, leaving a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. Starting at the first shell, roll the strip up with the sc edge level. Stitch through all layers at the base. The rose measures about 1.75 in (4.4 cm) across.

Small rolled rose (Colorway A): Make 1 in blush. Ch 18 and work Row 1. (17) Work Row 2 with the bracketed repeat 4 times. (4 shells, 25 sts) Roll and sew it the same way as the large rose.

Daisy (Colorway B): Make 5.

  • Round 1: With gold, make a magic ring, work 10 sc into it, and join. (10) Fasten off.
  • Round 2: Join cream in any st. (Hdc, 3 dc, hdc) in next st, sl st in next st 5 times. (5 petals) The daisy measures about 2 in (5.1 cm) across.

Bud (Colorway B): Make 3 in cream. Make a magic ring, ch 2, work 1 bud bobble into the ring, ch 1, and pull the ring closed tightly.

Leaf: Make 4 for Colorway A or 5 for Colorway B, in leaf green.

  • Ch 7. Working into the back bumps of the chain: sc in 2nd ch from hook, then hdc, dc, dc, hdc, sc. (6)
  • Ch 1. Work the same 6 sts along the other side of the chain, then sl st in first sc. (12) The leaf is about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) long.

Border: Top Band, Opening Rim and Hanging Tabs

This holder has a tube-shaped border in three parts: a solid top band, a sc rim around the opening, and two tapered tabs. The border uses the same sc gauge as the base: 16 sts = 4 in (10.2 cm).

Top band (CC)

  • Round 39 (conversion round): Join CC in any dc. Ch 1, then sc in each dc (30) and sc in each ch-1 sp (30). (30 + 30 = 60)
  • Rounds 40–45: Sc in each st around. (60)

Why the math works: Each mesh square is 2 sts wide, so 30 squares turn back into exactly the 60 sts of the bottom band. Because the top band and bottom band are the same width, the tube hangs straight instead of flaring or pulling in.

Opening rim (MC)

  • Round 1: Join MC at a bottom corner of the opening. Work 2 sc in each of the 8 bottom sps (16), 2 sc around each of the 3 side posts (6), 2 sc in each of the 8 top sps (16), and 2 sc around each of the 3 posts on the other side (6). Join. (44)
  • Round 2: Sc around, working sc2tog at each of the 4 corners. (44 − 4 = 40)

The corner decreases round off the rectangle into a smooth oval about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) wide and 1.5 in (3.8 cm) tall. The edge is firm enough that bags slide out one at a time.

Hanging tabs (MC)

Flatten the holder so the opening is at center front. Mark the 20 center-front sts and the 20 center-back sts. That leaves 10 open sts at each side: 20 + 20 + 10 + 10 = 60. The open sides make the wide top opening for filling the holder.

  • Row 1: Join MC in first marked front st. Ch 1, sc in same st and in next 19 sts. (20)
  • Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across. (20)
  • Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (18)
  • Rows 4–15: Repeat Rows 2–3 six more times. (16, 14, 12, 10, 8 and 6 sts after each decrease row)
  • Rows 16–22: Ch 1, turn, sc 6. (6)

Fasten off, leaving a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. Make the back tab the same way. Each tab is about 3.25 in (8.3 cm) tall, not counting the strap. To attach the ring, pass both straps through it from the outside. Fold each strap to the inside and whipstitch Row 22 to the wrong side of Row 15.

Final Blocking

  1. Weave in all ends. Leave the tab tails and the appliqué tails for sewing.
  2. Mist the body until damp, or wet it and roll it in a towel to remove extra water.
  3. Push a rolled towel inside so the holder forms a 15 in (38.1 cm) cylinder.
  4. Straighten the mesh squares so every column runs straight up.
  5. Pat the opening into an even oval.
  6. Let it dry completely. Then sew the tabs around the ring.
  7. Pin the appliqués in place.
  8. Colorway A: Group the roses at the upper left of the mesh, just below the top band, and tuck the leaves under the edges.
  9. Colorway B: Make an upper cluster of 2 daisies, 1 bud and 2 leaves. About halfway down, make a lower cluster of 3 daisies, 2 buds and 3 leaves. Backstitch short stems for the buds with leaf green.
  10. Sew each piece down through the mesh posts only, so the stitches don’t show.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

  • [ ] The base lies flat and measures 4.8 in (12.2 cm).
  • [ ] Each band has 60 sts, and every full mesh round has 30 squares.
  • [ ] The mesh columns run straight, with no extra or missing squares.
  • [ ] The opening is centered on the front and has a smooth 40-st rim.
  • [ ] Both tabs end with 6 sts and are sewn securely around the ring.
  • [ ] The appliqués are attached firmly and every end is hidden.
  • [ ] The holder is about 18.5 in (47.0 cm) long, not counting the ring.

Troubleshooting

  • The base ruffles: Your tension is loose. Go down a hook size for Rounds 1–10 only.
  • The base cups: Go up half a hook size, and check that every round has 6 increases.
  • The mesh leans: Work each dc into the dc below it, not into the ch-1 sp.
  • The square count drifts: Count 30 dc after each round. The beginning ch-4 counts as 1 dc.
  • The opening gapes: Work Round 2 of the rim more firmly, or add another round with sc2tog at the corners.
  • The tabs twist: Before sewing, check that the two tabs line up directly across from each other.
  • The holder sags when full: Use a tighter cotton, or add one more sc round to each band.

Care

Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, reshape, and lay flat to dry. If the ring is painted, take it off before washing.

Crocheted tissue organizers in sage green and beige with decorative flowers, hanging from a yellow paneled door.

Final Notes

The measurements build on each other. A 60-st base 4.8 in (12.2 cm) across gives a tube 7.5 in (19.1 cm) wide. The 30 mesh squares keep that width for 12 in (30.5 cm). The 60-st top band brings the body to 15 in (38.1 cm), and the tabs bring the full length to 18.5 in (47.0 cm). If the base matches gauge, the later checkpoints should match too.

Happy crocheting!

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