This keychain is a single letter “J” in warm mustard-gold, trimmed with a small spray of crochet flowers. The letter has a wide top bar, a straight stem and a rounded hook that curls up to the left. A neat outline frames the whole letter like a cookie cutter.
The colors are soft and cottage-style. The letter is mustard, the two flowers are cream and rust/terracotta, the two tiny buds are cream and the leaves are sage green. The flowers run down the right side of the stem, from a small bud at the top to a full cream flower at the base.
The finished charm measures about 3.25 in (8.3 cm) wide and 4 in (10.2 cm) tall, not counting the key ring. The pattern uses US crochet terms throughout.
You work the letter flat in rows of single crochet, starting with the top bar and working down. Short-row wedges turn the hook, and a two-round border finishes the edge. Then you make the small appliqués, sew them on and attach a gold key ring.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: about 3.25 in (8.3 cm) wide × 4 in (10.2 cm) tall
- Skill level: Easy-intermediate (short rows, edging around shaped edges)
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: DK (light worsted, #3)
- Hook: 3.0 mm (US C/2–D/3)
- Number of pieces: 1 letter body plus 8 small sewn appliqués (2 flowers, 2 buds, 4 leaves)
- Layout: single charm; appliqués run down the right side of the stem
- Top bar size: 2 in (5.1 cm) wide × about 0.83 in (2.1 cm) tall
- Size before border: about 3 in (7.6 cm) wide × 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall
- Border depth: about 0.125 in (0.3 cm) per side
Materials
Use a smooth DK cotton or cotton blend. Cotton keeps the letter firm and flat, shows the stitches clearly and holds up well on a bag. Avoid fuzzy or very stretchy yarn, because the letter needs crisp edges.
- Mustard / gold: 12 g, about 28 m (letter body, border, cream flower center)
- Cream: 3 g, about 7 m (cream flower petals, rust flower center, buds)
- Rust / terracotta: 2 g, about 5 m (rust flower petals)
- Sage green: 2 g, about 5 m (leaves)
These amounts include extra for your gauge swatch and sewing tails.
Tools:
- 3.0 mm crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers (2–3)
- Scissors
- Gold split key ring, 1 in (2.5 cm)
- Short gold chain, about 0.75 in (1.9 cm), with 2 jump rings
- Flat-nose pliers
- Blocking board and rustproof pins
- Spray bottle
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- hdc: half double crochet
- dc: double crochet
- sc2tog: single crochet 2 together (counts as 1 stitch)
- st(s): stitch(es)
- MR: magic ring
- BLO: back loop only
- RS: right side
Special stitch: 4-dc bobble. *Yarn over, insert hook in the stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops; repeat from * 3 more times in the same stitch (5 loops on hook), then yarn over and pull through all 5 loops.
Short row: Turn before the end of the row and leave the rest of the stitches unworked for now. Later rows pick them up.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 12 sc × 12 rows = 2 in (5.1 cm) square with a 3.0 mm hook. That is 6 sc and 6 rows per 1 in (2.5 cm).
Each single crochet should be about as tall as it is wide. This matters because the border puts 1 sc in each row-end, and square stitches keep those edges flat.
Make a swatch first: ch 13, then work 12 rows of 12 sc. Block it lightly and measure.
Checkpoints:
- After Row 5: the top bar measures 2 in (5.1 cm) wide × about 0.83 in (2.1 cm) tall.
- After Row 13: the stem measures 1 in (2.5 cm) wide. The right edge measures about 2.2 in (5.6 cm) from the top of the bar.
- After Row 39: the whole letter measures about 3 in (7.6 cm) × 3.75 in (9.5 cm).
- After the border: about 3.25 in (8.3 cm) × 4 in (10.2 cm).
Too big? Go down to a 2.75 mm hook. Too small? Go up to a 3.25 mm hook. If only your row height is off, change how tightly you pull up your loops rather than changing the row count, because the curve depends on the row counts.
Letter Body
Use mustard. Start every row with ch 1 (it does not count as a stitch), and turn at the end of every row.
Top Bar
Foundation: Ch 13.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (12 sc)
Rows 2–5: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (12 sc)
Checkpoint: 2 in (5.1 cm) × about 0.83 in (2.1 cm).
Stem
Hold the work so the end where Row 5 finished is on your right. That side is now the RS (front). Single crochet looks the same on both sides, but holding it this way puts the stem on the right, so the letter reads as “J” and not a mirror-image J.
Row 6: Ch 1, sc in first 6 sts. Turn, leaving the other 6 sts unworked. (6 sc)
The right edge of the stem lines up with the right end of the top bar. This is the outer edge. The left edge of the stem is the inner edge.
Rows 7–13: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (6 sc)
Row 13 ends at the outer (right) edge. Checkpoint: the stem is 1 in (2.5 cm) wide.
Hook Curve (Short-Row Wedges)
Each wedge is 6 rows long and starts and ends at the outer edge. It adds 6 rows at the outer edge but only 2 at the inner edge, so the strip bends to the left.
Wedge (work 4 times: Rows 14–19, 20–25, 26–31, 32–37):
- Row a: Ch 1, sc in first 2 sts. Turn. (2 sc)
- Row b: Ch 1, sc in 2 sts. Turn. (2 sc)
- Row c: Ch 1, sc in 2 sts, then sc in the next 2 unworked sts of the last full row. Turn. (4 sc)
- Row d: Ch 1, sc in 4 sts. Turn. (4 sc)
- Row e: Ch 1, sc in 4 sts, then sc in the last 2 unworked sts of the last full row. Turn. (6 sc)
- Row f: Ch 1, sc in 6 sts. Turn. (6 sc)
When you move from a short row into the unworked stitches, pull the first loop up snugly to close the small gap.
After 4 wedges, the outer edge has 24 new rows, about 4 in (10.2 cm). The inner edge has 8 new rows, about 1.33 in (3.4 cm). The strip has turned about 150 degrees and now points up and to the left.
Hook Tip
Row 38: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (6 sc)
Row 39: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog. (4 sc)
Fasten off and weave in the tail.
Checkpoint: about 3 in (7.6 cm) wide × 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall. The tip of the hook should sit roughly below the left end of the top bar.
Border
Border rules: Work 1 sc in each stitch along stitch edges and 1 sc in each row-end along row edges. Work 3 sc in each outer corner stitch, and sc2tog at the one inner corner.
Round 1 (mustard, RS facing): Join with a sc in the first foundation loop at the top-right corner. Work counterclockwise around the letter:
- Top edge (12 foundation loops): 2 more sc in the same first loop to make the corner, sc in next 10 loops, 3 sc in last loop. = 16 sts (12 worked 1-per-st + 4 corner extras)
- Left end of top bar (5 row-ends): 1 sc in each row-end. = 5 sts
- Underside of bar (6 free sts of Row 5): 3 sc in first free st, sc in next 4 sts. = 7 sts (5 worked 1-per-st + 2 corner extras)
- Inner corner: sc2tog over the last free st and the row-end of Row 6. = 1 st
- Inner edge (row-ends of Rows 7–13, the 8 inner row-ends of the wedges, then Rows 38–39): 1 sc in each row-end. = 17 sts (7 + 8 + 2)
- Tip (4 sts of Row 39): 3 sc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, 3 sc in last st. = 8 sts (4 worked 1-per-st + 4 corner extras)
- Outer edge (row-ends of Rows 39 back to 14): 1 sc in each row-end. = 26 sts
- Right edge (row-ends of Rows 13 back to 1): 1 sc in each row-end. = 13 sts
Sl st to the first sc to join. Total: 16 + 5 + 7 + 1 + 17 + 8 + 26 + 13 = 93 sts.
Round 2 (mustard): Ch 1, sl st loosely in the BLO of each st around. (93 sl sts) Join and fasten off.
This round makes the raised, corded outline. Keep it loose so the letter doesn’t cup.
Why the math works: The gauge is square (6 sts and 6 rows per inch), so 1 sc per row-end is exactly as long as the edge it covers. The 4 corners of the top bar and the 2 corners of the tip each get 2 extra stitches to turn the corner. The one inner corner loses 1 stitch through the sc2tog. On the outer curve, the 26 row-ends already carry the extra length the short rows added, so you don’t need extra increases. The inner curve has only 17 row-ends, so it stays snug and doesn’t ruffle.
Appliqués
Leave an 8 in (20.3 cm) tail on every piece for sewing.
Cream Flower (make 1)
Round 1 (mustard): 10 sc in MR. Sl st to first sc. (10 sc) Fasten off mustard.
Round 2 (cream): Join cream in any st. *(Sc, hdc, 2 dc, hdc, sc) in next st, sl st in next st; repeat from * 4 more times. (5 petals)
Size: about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across.
Rust Flower (make 1)
Round 1 (cream): 10 sc in MR. Sl st to first sc. (10 sc) Fasten off cream.
Round 2 (rust): Join rust in any st. *(Sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) in next st, sl st in next st; repeat from * 4 more times. (5 petals)
Size: about 1.1 in (2.8 cm) across.
Bud (make 2)
With cream, ch 3. Work a 4-dc bobble in the 3rd ch from hook, then ch 1 to close. Fasten off, and use the tail to round out the bud.
Size: about 0.4 in (1.0 cm).
Leaf (make 4)
With sage green, ch 6. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in last ch. Ch 1, turn the leaf and work along the other side of the chain: sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc. Sl st to the tip. Fasten off.
Size: about 0.75 in (1.9 cm) long.
Placement
Lay all the pieces out on the RS before you sew. Work from top to bottom along the right side of the stem:
- One bud on the top right of the top bar, with a leaf tucked to its right.
- The second bud just below, at the top of the stem.
- The rust flower on the upper stem, with a leaf peeking out on its right.
- The cream flower at the base of the stem, where it meets the curve, with one leaf at its lower left and one at its right.
Tuck the leaves slightly under the petals so they look layered. Keep all pieces inside the border round. Sew them on with the yarn tails, using small stitches through the back loops only so nothing shows on the back.
Hardware
Open a jump ring with pliers. Pass it through the top edge just above the center of the stem, behind the Round 2 outline, and close it around the end link of the chain. Attach the split key ring to the other end of the chain with the second jump ring.
Final Blocking
- Lightly mist the charm with water until it is damp but not soaked.
- Lay it RS up on the blocking board.
- Pin the 4 corners of the top bar so it measures 2.25 in (5.7 cm) wide, including the border.
- Pin the stem straight so the right edge forms one clean vertical line.
- Ease the hook into a smooth curve with 3–4 pins along the outer edge, then pin the tip.
- Check the overall size: 3.25 in (8.3 cm) × 4 in (10.2 cm).
- Let it dry completely, at least 4 hours.
- Unpin it and gently press the flower petals into shape with your fingers.
If you like, block the letter before sewing on the appliqués so the flowers keep their shape.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- The top bar is 12 sts wide and the stem is 6 sts wide.
- The stem lines up with the right end of the top bar.
- The hook curves smoothly, with no holes at the short-row turns.
- Border Round 1 has 93 sts and Round 2 has 93 sl sts.
- The corners are crisp and the outline lies flat.
- All 8 appliqués are sewn on securely and nothing shows through on the back.
- The jump rings are fully closed with no gap.
- The charm measures about 3.25 in (8.3 cm) × 4 in (10.2 cm).
Troubleshooting
The hook curls too tightly or overlaps the stem. Your rows are taller than your stitches are wide. Use a slightly smaller hook for the wedges only.
The hook is too open. Add a fifth wedge before Row 38.
There are holes at the short-row turns. Pull the first loop up snugly, or pick up the side bar of the row-end together with the stitch.
The border ruffles. Skip 1 row-end every 6–8 rows on the outer curve, and work Round 2 a little tighter.
The border cups or pulls. Work Round 2 looser, or use a hook 0.5 mm larger for that round only.
The flowers flop. Add a few small tacking stitches under each petal tip.
Care
Spot clean with mild soap and cool water, then reshape the charm and lay it flat to dry. Don’t machine wash it, because the hardware and appliqués can catch.
Final Notes
Here is how the measurements build. A square gauge of 6 sc and 6 rows per inch gives a 2 in (5.1 cm) top bar and a 1 in (2.5 cm) stem. Four short-row wedges turn the hook and bring the body to about 3 in (7.6 cm) × 3.75 in (9.5 cm). The 93-stitch border adds about 0.125 in (0.3 cm) on each side, for a finished charm of 3.25 in (8.3 cm) × 4 in (10.2 cm). Add the flowers, buds and leaves, clip on the gold ring, and your initial is ready for a bag or keys.
Happy crocheting!