This hanging organizer holds five toilet rolls in a tidy vertical line. Five small navy baskets are sewn to one crocheted strap, alternating left and right. Every roll is easy to reach, and the piece looks like a column of scallop shells.
Each basket has a solid single crochet base and a short single crochet band. Above that, three rounds of offset fans open into a scalloped rim. A cream five-petal flower sits on the front of every basket. The deep navy and soft cream give it a calm, coastal look.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished organizer measures about 15 in (38.1 cm) tall and 11 in (27.9 cm) wide. Each basket is 3.25 in (8.3 cm) tall, with a 4.75 in (12.1 cm) base and a 5.5 in (14.0 cm) rim.
You make five baskets in the round, five flowers, and one strap (the spine) in rows. You sew the baskets to the spine, then finish the spine with a two-round border and a hanging loop.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: about 15 in (38.1 cm) tall x 11 in (27.9 cm) wide
- Skill level: Easy+
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: worsted (#4) cotton
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8) for baskets and spine; 4.0 mm (G-6) for flowers
- Number of pieces: 11 (5 baskets, 5 flowers, 1 spine)
- Layout: 5 baskets staggered in two columns: left, right, left, right, left
- Piece size: each basket has a 4.75 in (12.1 cm) base, is 3.25 in (8.3 cm) tall and has a 5.5 in (14.0 cm) rim; each flower is about 2 in (5.1 cm)
- Size before border: spine 1.25 in (3.2 cm) x 14 in (35.6 cm)
- Border depth: about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) per edge, which makes the spine 2.25 in (5.7 cm) x 15 in (38.1 cm)
Materials
Use a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds its shape and handles bathroom humidity. Avoid fuzzy or stretchy yarn, because the baskets must stand up on their own. The amounts below assume about 95 m per 50 g.
- Navy: 150 g (285 m). Each basket uses about 22 g (42 m), and the spine with its border uses about 15 g (29 m).
- Cream: 20 g (38 m). Each flower uses about 2 g (4 m).
These quantities include extra yarn for swatching and tails.
Tools: 5.0 mm (H-8) and 4.0 mm (G-6) hooks, 6 stitch markers, tapestry needle, scissors, measuring tape, pins, blocking surface, spray bottle, and a wall hook or narrow wooden strip for mounting.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- dc: double crochet
- tr: treble crochet
- BLO: back loop only
- sk: skip
- st(s): stitch(es)
- sp: space
- rnd(s): round(s)
Special stitches:
- Fan: the stated number of dc worked into one stitch.
- Ch-2 picot: ch 2, sl st in 2nd ch from hook.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc and 18 sc rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) with the 5.0 mm hook. In the fan rounds, one 6-stitch repeat measures about 1.5 in (3.8 cm).
Make one complete basket first and check it at these points:
- After Rnd 6 (36 sts): base is about 2.9 in (7.4 cm) across.
- After Rnd 10 (60 sts): base is 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across.
- After Rnd 13: wall is about 0.7 in (1.8 cm) tall; circumference is 15 in (38.1 cm).
- After Rnd 16: wall is about 3 in (7.6 cm) tall.
- After Rnd 17: wall is 3.25 in (8.3 cm) tall; rim is 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across.
Too big? Go down half a hook size. Too small? Go up half a size. Never add or remove rounds, because the fans need exactly 60 stitches for 10 repeats. A standard toilet roll is about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide, so the base must be at least that size.
Basket (make 5)
Use navy and the 5.0 mm hook. Work in joined rounds and do not turn.
Base
Rnd 1: Magic ring, ch 1, 6 sc in ring, sl st to first sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, sl st to first sc. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around, sl st to first sc. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep around, sl st to first sc. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep around, sl st to first sc. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep around, sl st to first sc. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep around, sl st to first sc. (42 sts)
Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep around, sl st to first sc. (48 sts)
Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep around, sl st to first sc. (54 sts)
Rnd 10: Ch 1, sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep around, sl st to first sc. (60 sts)
The base should lie flat.
Wall
Rnd 11: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around, sl st to first sc. (60 sts) The wall turns upward here.
Rnds 12–13: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc. (60 sts)
Fan Rounds
Rnd 14 (fan round A): Ch 1, sc in same st as join, sk 2 sts, 7 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st; rep from * 8 more times, sk 2 sts, 7 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, sl st to first sc. (10 fans + 10 sc = 80 sts)
The round closes exactly because 10 repeats x 6 base stitches = 60.
Rnd 15 (fan round B, offset): Ch 3 (counts as dc), 3 dc in first sc (half fan), sk 3 dc, sc in next dc (center of fan), sk 3 dc, 7 dc in next sc; rep from * 8 more times, sk 3 dc, sc in center dc of last fan, sk 3 dc, 3 dc in first sc, sl st to top of beginning ch-3. (10 fans + 10 sc = 80 sts)
The two half fans meet to form the tenth fan, and its center is the beginning ch-3. The new fans sit between the fans of Rnd 14, which creates the layered scale texture.
Rnd 16 (scallop round): Ch 1, sc in top of beginning ch-3, sk 3 dc, 9 dc in next sc, sk 3 dc, sc in center dc of next fan; rep from * 8 more times, sk 3 dc, 9 dc in next sc, sk 3 dc, sl st to first sc. (10 fans + 10 sc = 100 sts)
The larger fans make the rim flare outward.
Rnd 17 (rim trim): Sl st in next sc, sc in next 4 dc, 2 sc in center dc, sc in next 4 dc; rep from * around, sl st to first sl st. (110 sts: 100 worked 1 per existing stitch + 10 extra at the fan centers)
The sl sts dip between fans and the increases sharpen each point into a scallop. Fasten off, leaving a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail for sewing.
Flower (make 5)
Use cream and the 4.0 mm hook.
Rnd 1: Magic ring, ch 1, 5 sc in ring, sl st to first sc. Pull the ring tight. (5 sts)
Rnd 2: (Ch 2, dc, tr, ch-2 picot, tr, dc, ch 2, sl st) all in next sc; rep from * 4 more times. (5 petals)
Fasten off, leaving a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. The picot gives each petal a point. The flower measures about 2 in (5.1 cm) across.
Spine
Use navy and the 5.0 mm hook.
Foundation: Ch 6.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (5 sts)
Rows 2–63: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (5 sts)
Put the live loop on a marker and keep it for the border. The spine measures 1.25 in (3.2 cm) x 14 in (35.6 cm). Row 63 is the top.
Make All Pieces
- Navy: 5 baskets, 1 spine
- Cream: 5 flowers
Sew the flowers on before joining. On each basket, mark the center dc of one Rnd 15 fan as the back center. Count 5 fans around to find the front fan. Center the flower over it, between Rnd 14 and Rnd 16, and sew around each petal and through the center.
Layout grid (spine rows counted from the top; each basket’s rim sits at the first row listed):
Spine rows Left column Spine Right column
1–9 (hanging tab) |
10–24 Basket 1 |
19–33 | Basket 2
28–42 Basket 3 |
37–51 | Basket 4
46–60 Basket 5 |
61–63 (tail) |
Each basket spans 15 rows, or 3.25 in (8.3 cm). A new basket starts every 9 rows, or 2 in (5.1 cm). Baskets on the same side are 4 in (10.2 cm) apart, which leaves 0.75 in (1.9 cm) of spine showing between them.
Joining
Method: Whipstitch each basket to the spine using that basket’s navy tail.
Lay the spine flat, right side up. Place each basket so its marked back center line rests against the center stitch (stitch 3) of the spine. The basket body should sit to the left or right as shown in the grid.
Stitch-to-stitch logic: Pin three match points before you sew:
- Rnd 17 (rim) on the basket’s first spine row
- Rnd 13 (top of the sc band) 10 rows lower
- Rnd 11 (base edge) 14 rows lower
Whipstitch down the back center line, making one stitch through the basket wall and spine stitch 3 in every spine row. That is 15 whipstitches per basket. Then add 3 stitches through the base edge for support. Sew only through the center column so the spine’s edge stitches stay free for the border.
Tension: Pull each stitch snug but not tight. If the spine puckers, loosen the last few stitches.
Size checkpoint: The spine should still measure 14 in (35.6 cm). The widest point, from a left rim to a right rim, should be about 11 in (27.9 cm).
Border
The border is worked around the spine only. Fold each basket gently aside as you work behind it.
Border gauge: 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm), which is 4 sc per inch on every edge.
Rnd 1: Pick up the live loop at Row 63 and ch 1.
– Top edge: sc in each of 5 sts, ch 1 (corner).
– First long side: sc in each of next 8 row ends, sk 1 row end; rep from * 6 more times, ch 1 (corner).
– Bottom edge: working across the foundation chain, sc in each of 5 sts, ch 1 (corner).
– Second long side: sc in next 8 row ends, sk 1 row end; rep from * 6 more times, ch 1 (corner), sl st to first sc.
Counts: top 5, long side 56, bottom 5, long side 56. Total: 122 sc + 4 ch-1 corner sps.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc to corner, (sc, ch 1, sc) in corner ch-1 sp; rep from * around, sl st to first sc.
Counts per side, including each side’s 2 corner sc: top 7, long side 58, bottom 7, long side 58. Total: 130 sc + 4 ch-1 corner sps.
Why the math works: Each long side has 63 row ends. Seven repeats of (8 sc, skip 1) use 7 x 9 = 63 row ends and place 56 sc. At 4 sc per inch, 56 sc = 14 in (35.6 cm), which is exactly the spine length. Working 1 sc in every row end would give 63 sc, about 1.75 in (4.4 cm) too many, and the edge would ripple. Each short end needs 5 sc for 1.25 in (3.2 cm). In Rnd 2, each corner adds 1 sc to each of its two sides: 122 + 8 = 130.
Hanging loop: Sl st to the center (4th) sc of the top edge. Ch 8, sl st in same st, ch 1, work 12 sc into the loop, and sl st to its base. The loop is about 1 in (2.5 cm) long. Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Final Blocking
- Mist the organizer until it is damp, not soaked.
- Lay it face up on a blocking surface.
- Pin the spine straight to 2.25 in (5.7 cm) x 15 in (38.1 cm).
- Fill each basket with a toilet roll or a rolled towel.
- Pull each scallop point outward so the rim reaches 5.5 in (14.0 cm), and pin it.
- Flatten each flower and pin the petal tips.
- Let it dry for at least 12 hours before you remove the pins.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each base is 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across and lies flat.
- Each basket has 10 fans per fan round and 10 rim scallops.
- Each basket is 3.25 in (8.3 cm) tall.
- Each flower is centered on the front fan, opposite the seam.
- The baskets alternate sides and start 2 in (5.1 cm) apart.
- Border Rnd 2 has 130 sc and 4 corner spaces.
- The spine is flat and 15 in (38.1 cm) long.
- The hanging loop is secure and all ends are woven in.
Troubleshooting
Base cups or ruffles: Recount each round. If it cups, go up half a hook size; if it ruffles, go down half a size.
Fans don’t close in Rnd 14: The wall must have exactly 60 sts. Recount Rnd 13.
Rim looks flat: Check that Rnd 17 has a sl st between fans and 2 sc in each center dc.
Basket tips forward when filled: Add a second line of whipstitches next to the first, or more stitches through the base edge.
Spine edge ripples: You missed the skips. Each long side needs 56 sc in Rnd 1.
Roll doesn’t fit: Your base is under 4.5 in (11.4 cm). Remake the basket with a larger hook.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap. Reshape the baskets while damp and lay flat to dry; do not tumble dry.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is short. A gauge of 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm) gives a 60-stitch base of 4.75 in (12.1 cm). Three fan rounds and one trim round raise the wall to 3.25 in (8.3 cm) with a 5.5 in (14.0 cm) rim. The 63-row spine is 14 in (35.6 cm) long, a new basket starts every 9 rows, and the border brings the spine to 15 in (38.1 cm). The full organizer is about 11 in (27.9 cm) wide.
Check your first basket carefully and the rest will follow. Happy crocheting!