The Honeycomb Hideaway is a tall, slim wall organizer that holds three spare toilet rolls. A solid single crochet back panel hangs from two tab loops. Three pockets are sewn down its front: two with an open honeycomb band, plus a shorter solid pocket at the bottom.
The whole piece uses one warm mustard-gold cotton. The single color keeps the look calm, and the texture comes from the stitches: dense single crochet next to airy chain-loop hexagons. It works well in modern, boho or farmhouse bathrooms.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder measures 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide by 28.5 in (72.4 cm) long, not counting the tab loops.
Construction is simple. You work the back panel flat in rows. You make each pocket in the round, starting with an oval base. You sew the pockets to the panel stitch by stitch, work the edging around the panel, and then crochet the tabs off the top edge.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 6.5 in x 28.5 in (16.5 cm x 72.4 cm), plus tab loops about 1.75 in (4.4 cm) tall
- Skill level: Easy
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Medium / worsted (#4), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 4 (1 back panel and 3 pockets). The 2 tabs are worked directly onto the panel.
- Layout: 3 pockets stacked in 1 vertical column
- Panel size before border: 6 in x 28 in (15.2 cm x 71.1 cm)
- Pocket size: oval base about 6.25 in x 4 in (15.9 cm x 10.2 cm), circumference 18.3 in (46.5 cm). Mesh pockets are 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall and the solid pocket is 3 in (7.6 cm) tall.
- Border depth: about 0.25 in (0.6 cm) on every side
Materials
Yarn: Use a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds its shape when loaded, doesn’t pill much and handles bathroom humidity well. Avoid very splitty yarn, because the honeycomb loops look best in a round, plump strand.
- Mustard gold: 400 g, about 720 m (787 yd)
The estimated use is about 330 g: roughly 120 g for the panel, border and tabs, 65 g for each mesh pocket and 80 g for the solid pocket. The quantity above includes a margin of about 20% for gauge differences and swatching.
Tools:
– 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
– Tapestry needle
– 6–8 locking stitch markers
– Scissors
– Measuring tape
– Rust-proof pins and a blocking mat or towel
– A spray bottle of water
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sc – single crochet
- sl st – slip stitch
- sk – skip
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- BLO – back loop only
- Rnd – round
- RS / WS – right side / wrong side
- inc – 2 sc in the same st
Special stitch – honeycomb loop: ch 5, then sc into the next marked spot (4 sts ahead on the first mesh round, or the next ch-5 loop on later rounds). Stacked rounds of these loops form the open hexagons.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 14 sc and 16 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) in single crochet, worked flat or in the round.
That works out to 3.5 sts and 4 rows per inch. Every measurement in this pattern comes from these two numbers.
Test one piece first. Make the first 16 rows of the back panel and measure:
– Checkpoint 1 (16 rows): 6 in (15.2 cm) wide and 4 in (10.2 cm) tall.
Then check each stage as you go:
– Checkpoint 2 (pocket Rnd 8): the oval base measures about 6.25 in x 4 in (15.9 cm x 10.2 cm) and lies flat.
– Checkpoint 3 (finished pocket): mesh pockets are 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall and the solid pocket is 3 in (7.6 cm) tall, measured from the base ridge.
– Checkpoint 4 (full panel, 112 rows): 6 in x 28 in (15.2 cm x 71.1 cm).
– Checkpoint 5 (after border): 6.5 in x 28.5 in (16.5 cm x 72.4 cm).
If your swatch is too big (fewer than 14 sts per 4 in), go down one hook size. If it’s too small (more than 14 sts), go up one hook size. Row gauge matters too, because pocket height must match panel rows when you sew. If your rows are off but stitches are right, keep your hook and simply count rows against a tape measure when you place the pockets.
Back Panel
Work flat in rows. The ch 1 at the start of each row does not count as a stitch.
Foundation: Ch 22.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (21 sts)
Rows 2–112: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (21 sts each row)
Fasten off after Row 112 and weave in the tail.
Checkpoint: The panel measures 6 in x 28 in (15.2 cm x 71.1 cm). Mark Rows 4, 16, 42, 56, 80 and 94 with markers on the RS edge, counting up from the foundation. These are your seam rows.
Pockets
Work in joined rounds with the RS facing you throughout. Join each round with a sl st to the first sc. The ch 1 at the start of each round does not count.
Oval Base (all 3 pockets)
Foundation: Ch 11.
Rnd 1: 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 8 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Rotate and work along the underside of the chain: sc in next 8 ch. Join. (22 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, [inc] 3 times, sc in next 8; repeat from * once. Join. (28 sts)
Rnds 3–8: For each round number n, ch 1, [sc in next (n – 2) sts, inc] 3 times, sc in next 8; repeat from * once. Join.
– Rnd 3: [sc 1, inc] x 3 at each end. (34 sts)
– Rnd 4: [sc 2, inc] x 3. (40 sts)
– Rnd 5: [sc 3, inc] x 3. (46 sts)
– Rnd 6: [sc 4, inc] x 3. (52 sts)
– Rnd 7: [sc 5, inc] x 3. (58 sts)
– Rnd 8: [sc 6, inc] x 3. (64 sts)
Each round adds 3 sts at each curved end (6 per round), and the two straight sides stay at 8 sts. Rnd 8 = 2 x (24 end sts + 8 straight sts) = 64.
Checkpoint: The base is about 6.25 in x 4 in (15.9 cm x 10.2 cm) and flat. Place a marker in the 4th of the 8 straight sts on one long side. This is center back.
Mesh Pockets (make 2)
Rnd 9 (base ridge): Ch 1, sc BLO in each st around. Join. (64 sts) This turns the wall upward and leaves a ring of front loops from Rnd 8. You will sew through those loops later.
Rnds 10–12: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (64 sts)
Rnd 13 (first mesh round): Ch 1, sc in first st, ch 5, sk 3 sts, sc in next st, ch 5, sk 3 sts; repeat from * 14 more times. Join to first sc. (16 sc and 16 ch-5 loops) Each repeat uses 4 sts, and 16 x 4 = 64.
Rnd 14: Sl st in first 3 ch of the next loop to reach its center. Ch 1, sc in same loop, ch 5, sc in next loop; repeat from * 14 more times, ch 5. Join to first sc. (16 ch-5 loops)
Rnd 15: Repeat Rnd 14. (16 ch-5 loops)
Rnd 16 (conversion round): Ch 1, sc in same sc as join, 3 sc in next ch-5 loop, sc in next sc, 3 sc in next loop; repeat from * 14 more times. Join. (16 sc worked into the 16 existing sc + 48 sc added into loops = 64 sts)
Rnds 17–18: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (64 sts)
Fasten off and leave a 36 in (91.4 cm) tail for sewing. Move your center-back marker up into Rnd 18, directly above the base marker.
Wall height: 4 solid rounds (1 in / 2.5 cm) + 3 mesh rounds (about 1.75 in / 4.4 cm) + 3 rim rounds (0.75 in / 1.9 cm) = 3.5 in (8.9 cm), which equals 14 panel rows.
Solid Pocket (make 1)
Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc BLO in each st around. Join. (64 sts)
Rnds 10–20: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (64 sts)
Fasten off and leave a 36 in (91.4 cm) tail. Mark center back in Rnd 20.
Wall height: 12 rounds = 3 in (7.6 cm), which equals 12 panel rows.
Make All Pieces
- Back panel: 1 (mustard)
- Mesh pockets: 2 (mustard)
- Solid pocket: 1 (mustard)
Layout (front view, panel rows counted from the bottom):
[ Tabs worked off top edge ]
[ Rows 95–112: plain panel 4.5 in ]
[ Rows 80–94: MESH POCKET 1 ]
[ Rows 57–79: plain panel ]
[ Rows 42–56: MESH POCKET 2 ]
[ Rows 17–41: plain panel ]
[ Rows 4–16: SOLID POCKET 3 ]
[ Rows 1–3: plain panel ]
This spacing leaves about 5.5 in (14.0 cm) between the top of each standing roll and the base of the pocket above, so you can lift rolls out easily.
Joining
Method: Whipstitch with the yarn tail, working through the panel and the pocket together, stitch by stitch.
Stitch-to-stitch logic: Each pocket attaches along a 21-stitch back section, and the panel is 21 sts wide. Centered on the center-back marker, count 10 sts to the right and 10 to the left (10 + 1 + 10 = 21). Mark both ends at the base ridge and at the rim. That leaves the other 43 sts free as the curved front: 21 + 43 = 64.
- Base seam. Lay the panel RS up. Place the pocket’s back with its Rnd 8 front loops along the marked base row. Whipstitch each of the 21 front loops to one panel st of that row, matching 1 to 1 from edge to edge.
- Rim seam. Smooth the back wall flat up the panel. The top of the wall should land exactly on the marked rim row: 14 rows up for a mesh pocket, 12 for the solid one. Whipstitch the 21 marked rim sts to the 21 sts of that row.
- Side tacks. At each end of the seams, add 3 or 4 small stitches up the back wall’s side edge to secure it to the panel’s edge column.
Tension: Pull each whipstitch just snug. If it’s too tight, the panel puckers into a ridge; if it’s too loose, the pocket sags forward under the roll’s weight.
Attach the solid pocket at Rows 4–16, mesh pocket 2 at Rows 42–56 and mesh pocket 1 at Rows 80–94.
Size checkpoint: The panel should still measure 6 in (15.2 cm) wide at every seam. Narrowing means the seams are too tight.
Border
Border gauge: Same as the body, 3.5 sc per inch along every edge.
Rnd 1: With the RS facing, join yarn in the top-right corner st.
– Top edge: 3 sc in corner st, sc in next 19 sts, 3 sc in last st.
– Left long edge: Work 7 sc over every 8 row ends (skip 1 row end in each group of 8). That gives 14 groups x 7 = 98 sc.
– Bottom edge: 3 sc in corner st, sc in next 19 foundation loops, 3 sc in last st.
– Right long edge: 98 sc, as on the left.
– Join to first sc. (246 sts)
Count per side, including both corner center sts: top and bottom 23 sts each; long sides 102 sts each. Check: 4 corners + (21 x 2) + (100 x 2) = 246.
Rnd 2: Sl st loosely in each st around. Join. (246 sl sts) This makes the raised, chain-like edge.
Why the math works: The rows are 4 per inch but the stitches are 3.5 per inch, so 7 sc over 8 rows (98 over 112) gives exactly 28 in (71.1 cm) of edging without rippling. The top edge stays at 21 sts, or 6 in (15.2 cm). The corner groups add one column all around, so the border is about 0.25 in (0.6 cm) on each side, and the panel becomes 6.5 in x 28.5 in (16.5 cm x 72.4 cm).
Hanging Tabs (make 2 on the panel)
Number the 23 top-edge sts from right to left, corner to corner.
Tab 1: Join in st 2. Row 1: Ch 1, sc in sts 2–7. Turn. (6 sts) Rows 2–16: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (6 sts) Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail.
Tab 2: Work the same over sts 17–22.
Check the top edge: 1 corner + 6 tab + 9 gap + 6 tab + 1 corner = 23. Each tab is 1.7 in (4.3 cm) wide and 4 in (10.2 cm) long. Fold each tab to the WS and whipstitch its last row across panel Row 110, which is 0.5 in (1.3 cm) below the top. The loop stands about 1.75 in (4.4 cm) tall and fits a rod up to 1 in (2.5 cm) thick.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends along stitch columns on the WS.
- Lay the holder face up on a mat or towel.
- Pin the panel to 6.5 in x 28.5 in (16.5 cm x 72.4 cm), with pins every 2 in (5.1 cm).
- Mist the whole piece until it’s damp, but not soaked.
- Stuff each pocket loosely with a toilet roll wrapped in a plastic bag, so the D-shape and the honeycomb loops dry open and even.
- Ease each hexagon into shape with your fingertips.
- Let it dry completely, usually 12–24 hours, before you unpin it.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Panel is 21 sts wide and 112 rows tall before the border.
- Border Rnd 1 has 246 sts: 23 on the top and bottom, 102 on each long side.
- Each pocket has 64 sts in every solid round and 16 loops in every mesh round.
- Every pocket seam is 21 sts to 21 sts and centered.
- Pockets sit at Rows 4–16, 42–56 and 80–94.
- The tabs are equal in length and sewn at the same row.
- The finished size is 6.5 in x 28.5 in (16.5 cm x 72.4 cm).
- No loose ends show on the RS.
Troubleshooting
- Oval base cups or ruffles: Cupping means your tension is too tight on the increases, and ruffling means it’s too loose. Re-check the counts at Rnd 8 (64).
- Mesh loops look uneven: Make all 5 chains the same size, and always sc into the exact center of each loop.
- Pocket is taller than its rows: Your row gauge is taller than 4 rows per inch. Sew the rim where the wall actually lies flat, even if that’s a row off.
- Long edges wave: You worked too many border sc. Go back to 7 sc per 8 rows.
- Holder tilts on the bar: The tabs are uneven. Re-sew them to the same row.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, press out the water in a towel and dry flat. Reshape the pockets with rolls while the piece is damp.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is straightforward. At 3.5 sts and 4 rows per inch, 21 sts make a 6 in (15.2 cm) panel and 112 rows make it 28 in (71.1 cm) tall. Each pocket has 64 sts (18.3 in / 46.5 cm around) and attaches along 21 back sts, one-for-one with the panel. Pocket walls of 14 and 12 rounds line up with 14 and 12 panel rows. A 246-st border brings the panel to 6.5 in x 28.5 in (16.5 cm x 72.4 cm), and the two 6-st tabs complete the holder. Check each number as you go and the holder will hang straight and full.
Happy crocheting!