The Lantern Link Strand Curtain is a soft boho room divider made from chains of pointed oval links. Each link has a small open “eye” in the center and a raised outline around the edge, so a long strand looks like a braided rope of little lanterns. Every strand ends in a full tassel with a rounded head.
This version uses two colors: a dusty blush pink and a deep teal. The strands alternate color across each panel, which gives a calm striped rhythm when the curtain is closed and a playful swing when it moves.
The pattern is written in US crochet terms. One finished panel measures about 19.5 in (49.5 cm) wide and 80 in (203.2 cm) long from the top of the rod loop to the tassel tips. The set shown has two panels on one rod.
Construction is simple and repeatable. You crochet small oval links in two rounds, sew them tip to tip into strands of 32, work one slip-stitch border around each whole strand (which also creates the hanging loop), and finish with a beaded tassel.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished panel size: 19.5 in (49.5 cm) wide x 80 in (203.2 cm) long
- Skill level: Easy to Intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 448 links, 14 tassels, joined into 14 strands (7 per panel)
- Layout: Each panel = 7 strands, alternating teal and pink, strands spaced 3 in (7.6 cm) center to center
- Piece size (one link): 2.25 in (5.7 cm) tall x 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide
- Strand size before border: 72 in (182.9 cm) long x 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide (32 links)
- Border depth: one slip-stitch outline round; adds no measurable width or length
- Drop: 2 in (5.1 cm) hanging loop + 72 in (182.9 cm) links + 6 in (15.2 cm) tassel = 80 in (203.2 cm)
Materials
Choose a smooth, firm worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend, about 200 yd (183 m) per 100 g. Cotton holds the pointed oval shape and keeps the open centers crisp. Avoid fuzzy or very stretchy acrylics; long strands will lengthen under their own weight.
Each link uses about 3 g (5.5 m) of yarn, including the border and sewing tail. Each tassel uses about 8 g (15.2 m).
- Teal (8 strands): about 925 g (1,690 m)
- Blush pink (6 strands): about 700 g (1,270 m)
Quantities include a margin of roughly 10% for swatching, tension differences, and trimming.
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- 14 wooden beads, 20 mm, for tassel heads
- Stiff card, 7 in (17.8 cm) wide, for tassel wrapping
- Sharp scissors
- Locking stitch markers
- Measuring tape
- Blocking mats, rust-proof pins, spray bottle
- Curtain rod, up to 1 in (2.5 cm) diameter
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- BLO – back loop only
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rnd – round
Special technique – working into the ring: Insert the hook through the center of the chain ring, not into the chain stitches themselves, so each stitch wraps around the whole ring. This lets you pack 30 stitches into an 18-chain ring and gives the smooth, full band.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Stitch gauge: 14 sc x 16 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) with a 5.0 mm hook.
Gauge matters here because small errors multiply across 32 links. Make one complete link before starting production and check it:
- After Rnd 1: 2 in (5.1 cm) tall x 1.25 in (3.2 cm) wide, open center about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) x 0.5 in (1.3 cm)
- After Rnd 2: 2.25 in (5.7 cm) tall x 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide
- 4 links joined: 9 in (22.9 cm)
- 8 links joined: 18 in (45.7 cm)
- 16 links joined: 36 in (91.4 cm)
- 32 links joined: 72 in (182.9 cm)
A difference of 0.125 in (0.3 cm) per link adds up to 4 in (10.2 cm) per strand. If your link is too big, go down one hook size. If it is too small, go up one hook size. If the shape is right but the center closes up, keep the starting ring loose rather than adding chains.
Link Pattern (Make 448)
Each link is worked in joined rounds without turning.
Ring: Ch 18, sl st in first ch to form a ring. The join sits at the top point of the link.
Rnd 1: Ch 1 (does not count as a st). Working into the ring: sc 1, hdc 2, dc 9, hdc 2, sc 1 (first side made, 15 sts); sc 1, hdc 2, dc 9, hdc 2, sc 1 (second side made, 15 sts). Sl st in first sc to join. (30 sts)
The single crochets at each end of a side form the two points. The hdc steps up to the dc in the middle, which creates the widest part of the oval. Push the stitches evenly around the ring so each side covers half of it.
Pinch the link at the join and at the opposite point (between the 15th and 16th sts) to set the eye shape. The 15th and 16th sts are the bottom point; the 30th and 1st sts are the top point.
Rnd 2 (outline): Ch 1. 2 sc in BLO of first st, sc in BLO of next 13 sts, 2 sc in BLO of each of next 2 sts, sc in BLO of next 13 sts, 2 sc in BLO of last st. Sl st in first sc to join. (34 sts)
This round is 30 sts worked one per stitch + 4 extra sts at the points = 34 sts. Working in the back loops leaves the front loops as a raised ridge on the right side, which is the visible outline.
Fasten off, leaving a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail for sewing.
Stitch map for Rnd 2: Number the 34 sts s1 to s34 starting at the first sc.
- First side: s1 (top) to s17 (bottom) = 17 sts
- Second side: s18 (bottom) to s34 (top) = 17 sts
- Top point: s34 and s1
- Bottom point: s17 and s18
Weave in the starting tail only. Keep the sewing tail.
Make All Pieces
Each strand needs 32 links and 1 tassel.
- Teal: 8 strands = 256 links + 8 tassels
- Blush pink: 6 strands = 192 links + 6 tassels
- Total: 448 links + 14 tassels
Batch your links by color in groups of 32. Store each group in its own bag so a full strand is ready to sew.
Layout (T = teal strand, P = pink strand), viewed from the room side:
Left panel: T P T P T P T
Right panel: T P T P T P T
Each panel has 4 teal and 3 pink strands. Strands sit 3 in (7.6 cm) apart center to center, so one panel is 6 x 3 in + 1.5 in = 19.5 in (49.5 cm) wide.
Joining
The links in a strand are sewn tip to tip. The strands themselves are not joined to each other; they hang separately from the rod.
Method: Whip stitch, through the back loops, 2 sts to 2 sts.
- Lay link A above link B, right sides up, with the bottom point of A touching the top point of B.
- Match s17 of link A to s1 of link B, and s18 of link A to s34 of link B.
- Using link A’s sewing tail, whip stitch through the back loops of each matched pair twice.
- Pass the needle through the joint once more from front to back to lock it, then weave the tail into the Rnd 1 stitches of link A.
Only the 4 point sts are used, so no stitches are added or lost. The pinched neck at each junction comes from this narrow 2-to-2 join.
Tension: Pull each whip stitch snug but not tight. A tight join puckers the points; a loose one lets the links rotate and gap. Join links in groups of 8, then join the groups together.
Size checkpoint: Lay the joined strand flat without stretching. Each group of 8 links should measure 18 in (45.7 cm). The full strand of 32 links should measure 72 in (182.9 cm).
Border
Border gauge: 17 sl sts per 2.25 in (5.7 cm) link side, worked one per Rnd 2 stitch.
The border is a single slip-stitch round around the entire strand. It outlines every link, strengthens the joins, and ends with the hanging loop.
Border round: With the right side facing, join yarn with a sl st in BLO of s1 of link 1 (the top link).
- Down the first side: Sl st in BLO of s2 to s17 of link 1. Continue straight into s1 to s17 of link 2, and so on down to s17 of link 32. (17 sts per link x 32 links = 544 sts)
- Around the bottom: Go directly from s17 into s18 of link 32. No extra stitches are added at the bottom point.
- Up the second side: Sl st in BLO of s18 to s34 of link 32, then s18 to s34 of link 31, and so on up to s34 of link 1. (17 sts per link x 32 links = 544 sts)
Total border: 544 + 544 = 1,088 sl sts, which equals 34 sts x 32 links.
Hanging loop: Ch 16, sl st in the first sl st at s1 of link 1. Fasten off and weave in. The loop is about 4 in (10.2 cm) around and hangs 2 in (5.1 cm) from the rod.
Why the math works: Each link side has exactly 17 sts after Rnd 2. The joins use those same stitches, with no stitches added at the seams. The border works one sl st into each existing stitch, so the count per side is simply 17 x the number of links. Slip stitches add no height, so the strand stays at 72 in (182.9 cm) and 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide.
Work the border with a relaxed hand. If your slip stitches are tight, go up to a 5.5 mm hook for this round only.
Tassel (Make 14)
- Wrap yarn 40 times around the 7 in (17.8 cm) card.
- Slide a 10 in (25.4 cm) tie strand under the wraps at the top edge and knot tightly.
- Cut the wraps at the bottom edge.
- Set the bead just under the tie and spread the strands evenly over it to cover it completely.
- Wrap a 24 in (61.0 cm) strand tightly 8 times around the neck just below the bead. Knot it, then thread the ends down into the skirt.
- The finished head should be about 1 in (2.5 cm) tall and round.
- Trim the skirt straight to 5 in (12.7 cm) below the neck, for a 6 in (15.2 cm) tassel.
- Thread the tie ends through s17 and s18 of the last link and knot them securely. Hide the ends inside the head.
Final Blocking
- Lay each strand flat on mats in sections, right side up.
- Mist lightly until damp, not wet.
- Pin the top and bottom point of each link in a straight line, without stretching.
- Gently open each center eye with your fingers to about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) x 0.5 in (1.3 cm).
- Check every 8-link section measures 18 in (45.7 cm).
- Let dry completely before unpinning.
- Steam the tassel skirts and comb them straight with your fingers. Trim again to an even 5 in (12.7 cm) if needed.
- Hang all strands for 24 hours, then check lengths. Re-trim tassels so all tips line up.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Every link has 30 sts in Rnd 1 and 34 sts in Rnd 2.
- Each link measures 2.25 in (5.7 cm) x 1.5 in (3.8 cm).
- Each strand has 32 links and measures 72 in (182.9 cm) before the tassel.
- All joins are 2 sts to 2 sts and sit straight.
- Border has 544 sl sts per side and 1,088 in total.
- Hanging loop fits the rod and hangs 2 in (5.1 cm).
- Tassels are 6 in (15.2 cm) with round, fully covered heads.
- Each panel has 4 teal and 3 pink strands in the correct order.
- All ends are woven in and secure.
Troubleshooting
Center eye closes up: Rnd 1 stitches are too crowded. Make the starting ch 18 looser, or chain with a hook one size larger.
Link is round, not pointed: Make sure only 1 sc sits at each point in Rnd 1 and the 2-sc increases in Rnd 2 are exactly at the points.
Links twist on the strand: Joins are uneven. Re-sew so s17 meets s1 and s18 meets s34.
Strand is too long after hanging: The yarn is stretching. Block again and hang with tassels attached for 24 hours before final trimming, or remove links in pairs.
Strand lengths differ: Measure each strand against the first one and add or remove a link before the border.
Bead shows through tassel head: Add 5 more wraps, or use a bead that matches the yarn color.
Border puckers: Slip stitches are too tight. Rework with a larger hook.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, roll in a towel to remove water, and dry flat, reshaping each link. Do not hang the strands to dry while wet.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is simple. One link is 2.25 in (5.7 cm) x 1.5 in (3.8 cm), with 17 sts per side. Thirty-two links joined tip to tip make a 72 in (182.9 cm) strand. A slip-stitch border of 1,088 sts adds no size. A 2 in (5.1 cm) loop and a 6 in (15.2 cm) tassel bring the drop to 80 in (203.2 cm). Seven strands spaced 3 in (7.6 cm) apart make a 19.5 in (49.5 cm) panel.
Check your first link carefully, and the rest of the curtain will follow. To change the length, add or remove links: each link adds or removes 2.25 in (5.7 cm).
Happy crocheting!