Lavender Bloom Letter M Keychain Crochet Pattern

This little letter M keychain is a quick, personal gift. It’s a flat monogram charm in soft lavender with a tidy raised rim and a small posy of flowers on the lower right leg: one white flower, one pink flower, and two green leaves. Clip it to a bag, a set of keys, or a pencil case.

The letter is worked in single crochet rows, so the fabric is dense, firm, and holds its shape well enough to hang from a ring. It uses five colors: lavender, white, pink, golden yellow, and sage green. This pattern uses US crochet terms throughout.

The finished charm measures 3.4 in × 3.4 in (8.6 cm × 8.6 cm), not counting the hardware.

Construction is simple. You crochet the two legs separately from the bottom up and shape the top of the gap between them. Then you join both legs in one row, work a short solid band, and split the work into two halves to open the top notch. One round of single crochet and one round of slip stitch outline the letter. Finally, you make the flowers and leaves and sew them on.

Finished Size and Construction

• Finished size: 3.4 in × 3.4 in (8.6 cm × 8.6 cm)
• Skill level: Easy / advanced beginner
• Terminology: US crochet terms
• Yarn weight: DK (light worsted / #3), cotton or cotton blend
• Hook: 3.25 mm (US D/3)
• Number of pieces: 1 letter piece plus 4 small appliqués (2 flowers, 2 leaves)
• Layout: single standalone charm, not joined to anything
• Letter size before border: 3 in × 3 in (7.6 cm × 7.6 cm), 15 sts × 18 rows
• Border depth: about 0.2 in (0.5 cm) per side

Materials

Yarn: Use a smooth mercerized or matte DK cotton. Cotton keeps stitch definition crisp and doesn’t stretch out on a keyring. Avoid fuzzy or very loosely plied yarns, because the letter’s sharp inner points will blur.

• Lavender (MC): 10 g / 23 m (25 yd)
• White: 3 g / 7 m (8 yd)
• Pink: 2 g / 5 m (5 yd)
• Golden yellow: 1 g / 2 m (2 yd)
• Sage green: 2 g / 5 m (5 yd)

All quantities include a safety margin of about 20%.

Tools:
– 3.25 mm (US D/3) crochet hook
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– Stitch marker
– Gold split keyring, 1 in (2.5 cm), with a short chain and a jump ring
– Two pairs of flat-nose pliers, or one pair plus your fingers
– Blocking board and rust-proof pins
– Optional: a piece of lavender felt cut to shape for a backing

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• ch – chain
• sl st – slip stitch
• sc – single crochet
• hdc – half double crochet
• dc – double crochet
• sc2tog – single crochet 2 together: insert hook in next st, yarn over, pull up a loop; insert hook in next st, yarn over, pull up a loop; yarn over, pull through all 3 loops
• MR – magic ring
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• RS / WS – right side / wrong side

Special stitch – corner group: 3 sc worked into the same stitch. It turns an outer corner of the letter during the border.

Gauge and Checkpoints

Gauge: 10 sc × 12 rows = 2 in × 2 in (5.1 cm × 5.1 cm), which is 5 sts and 6 rows per 1 in (2.5 cm).

Make a swatch first. Ch 11, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (10 sc), then work 11 more rows. Measure it unblocked.

Checkpoints:
– After Row 6 (each leg): 1 in (2.5 cm) wide × 1 in (2.5 cm) tall.
– After Row 11 (joined band): 3 in (7.6 cm) wide × about 1.8 in (4.6 cm) tall.
– After Row 18: 3 in × 3 in (7.6 cm × 7.6 cm).
– After border: 3.4 in × 3.4 in (8.6 cm × 8.6 cm).

If the piece is too big, go down a half size, to a 3.0 mm hook. If it’s too small, go up to a 3.5 mm (US E/4) hook. Fix the swatch before you start the letter. Small errors compound quickly on a piece this size.

Letter M Pattern

How the rows run: Odd rows are worked right to left, and even rows left to right (for right-handed crocheters). Row 1 is the RS. Ch 1 at the start of each row does not count as a stitch.

Right Leg

With lavender, ch 6.

Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (5 sts)

Rows 2–6: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (5 sts)

The inner edge of the right leg is its left edge.

Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sc in each of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the last st (inner edge). (6 sts)

Row 8: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in the first st (inner edge), sc in each of the next 5 sts. (7 sts)

Do not fasten off. Place a marker in the live loop and set the leg aside.

Left Leg

With lavender, ch 6.

Rows 1–6: Work the same as Rows 1–6 of the right leg. (5 sts)

The inner edge of the left leg is its right edge.

Row 7: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in the first st (inner edge), sc in each of the next 4 sts. (6 sts)

Row 8: Ch 1, turn, sc in each of the next 5 sts, 2 sc in the last st (inner edge). (7 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a short tail to weave in.

The two increase rows shape the top of the bottom gap. It narrows from 5 sts wide (1 in / 2.5 cm) to 3 sts, then to 1 st, which gives the gap its pointed top.

Joining Row and Solid Band

Lay both legs RS up, side by side, with the left leg to the left. Both foundation tails should sit at the bottom-left corner of each leg.

Row 9 (joining row): Return the right leg’s live loop to your hook. Ch 1, turn, sc in each of the 7 sts of the right leg, ch 1, then sc in each of the 7 sts of the left leg, starting at its inner edge. (15 sts: 14 sc + 1 ch)

The ch 1 closes the gap with a single-stitch point.

Row 10: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, working 1 sc into the ch. (15 sts)

Row 11: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (15 sts)

Check: 3 in (7.6 cm) wide.

Left Half (Top)

Row 12: Ch 1, turn, sc in each of the next 7 sts. Leave the remaining 8 sts unworked. (7 sts)

The inner edge of the left half is its right edge.

Row 13: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog over the first 2 sts (inner edge), sc in each of the next 5 sts. (6 sts)

Row 14: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (6 sts)

Row 15: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog over the first 2 sts, sc in each of the next 4 sts. (5 sts)

Rows 16–18: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (5 sts)

Fasten off.

Right Half (Top)

Look at Row 11 from the RS. Skip the 8th stitch (the center stitch). With the RS facing for a Row 12 pass, join lavender in the 9th stitch.

Row 12: Ch 1, sc in the same st and in each of the next 6 sts. (7 sts)

The inner edge of the right half is its left edge.

Row 13: Ch 1, turn, sc in each of the next 5 sts, sc2tog over the last 2 sts. (6 sts)

Row 14: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (6 sts)

Row 15: Ch 1, turn, sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc2tog over the last 2 sts. (5 sts)

Rows 16–18: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (5 sts)

Fasten off.

The top notch grows from 1 st wide (Rows 12–14 at the point) to 5 sts wide (1 in / 2.5 cm) at the top. That forms the V. The center skipped stitch becomes the bottom of the notch.

Check: 3 in × 3 in (7.6 cm × 7.6 cm). Each arm top is 1 in (2.5 cm) wide.

Border

Border gauge: One round of sc plus one round of sl st adds about 0.2 in (0.5 cm) on every side. That’s 0.4 in (1.0 cm) added to both width and height.

Counting rules:
– Work 1 sc in each row end. Rows are shorter than stitches are wide at this gauge, so 1 sc per row end lies flat.
– Each 5-st top or bottom edge gets a corner group in its first and last stitch, plus 1 sc in each of the 3 middle sts. That’s 9 sc per edge, with both corners included.
– Each inner point gets exactly 1 sc. Don’t add extra stitches at the points.

Rnd 1: With RS facing, join lavender in the row end of Row 1 on the outer left side. Ch 1. Work in this order:

1. Outer left side: sc in the same row end and in each row end up to Row 18. (18 sc)
2. Top of left arm: corner group, sc in each of the next 3 sts, corner group. (9 sc)
3. Top notch: sc in each row end of the left half, Rows 18 down to 12 (7 sc); sc in the skipped center st of Row 11 (1 sc); sc in each row end of the right half, Rows 12 up to 18 (7 sc). (15 sc)
4. Top of right arm: corner group, sc in each of the next 3 sts, corner group. (9 sc)
5. Outer right side: sc in each row end, Rows 18 down to 1. (18 sc)
6. Bottom of right leg: working into the underside of the foundation chain, corner group, sc in each of the next 3 sts, corner group. (9 sc)
7. Bottom gap: sc in each row end of the right leg’s inner edge, Rows 1 up to 8 (8 sc); sc into the ch-1 of Row 9 from below (1 sc); sc in each row end of the left leg’s inner edge, Rows 8 down to 1 (8 sc). (17 sc)
8. Bottom of left leg: corner group, sc in each of the next 3 sts, corner group. (9 sc)

Join with a sl st to the first sc. (104 sc)

Why the math works: Without corner extras, the edges total 18 + 18 (sides) + 5 + 5 + 5 + 5 (tops and bottoms) + 15 (notch) + 17 (gap) = 88 sts. The letter has 8 outer corners, and each one gets 2 extra sc: 88 + 16 = 104. In the list above, those extras are already inside each “9 sc” edge, which is why the total isn’t bigger than 104.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sl st loosely in each sc around. Fasten off with an invisible join. (104 sl st)

The slip-stitch round produces the smooth raised rim you see on the finished charm. Keep it loose so the edge doesn’t pull in. Weave in all ends on the WS.

Flowers and Leaves

Large White Flower (make 1)

Rnd 1: With yellow, MR, 10 sc in ring. Join with sl st to the first sc. Fasten off. (10 sts)

Rnd 2: Join white in any st. (Hdc, 3 dc, hdc) in the same st, sl st in the next st. Repeat from * to * 4 more times. Fasten off. (5 petals)

Finished diameter: about 1.1 in (2.8 cm).

Small Pink Flower (make 1)

Rnd 1: With yellow, MR, 5 sc in ring. Join with sl st to the first sc. Fasten off. (5 sts)

Rnd 2: Join pink in any st. (Ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st) in the same st, sl st in the next st. Repeat from * to * 4 more times, ending the last repeat with a sl st in the first st. Fasten off. (5 petals)

Finished diameter: about 0.8 in (2.0 cm).

Leaf (make 2)

With green, ch 7.

Rnd 1: Working into the chain, starting in the 2nd ch from hook: sl st, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc (6 sts). Ch 2 for the tip. Working along the opposite side of the chain: sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st. Fasten off.

Finished length: about 0.9 in (2.3 cm).

Optional: a surface sl st down the center of each leaf in green makes a vein.

Placement

Work on the lower right leg and stack the pieces from back to front: leaves, then the pink flower, then the white flower.

1. Pin the white flower centered on the right leg, with its center about 0.75 in (1.9 cm) above the bottom border. Let its right petals just overlap the outer rim.
2. Pin the pink flower directly above it so that one white petal overlaps its lower edge.
3. Tuck one leaf behind the pink flower, pointing up and to the right.
4. Tuck the second leaf behind the white flower, pointing down and to the left.
5. Sew each piece on with matching yarn, using small stitches through the center and petal tips. Only catch the back layer of the lavender fabric.

Hardware

Open the jump ring with pliers by twisting it sideways, never by pulling it apart. Thread it through the Rnd 1 border stitches at the center of the left arm’s top edge. Hook it to the chain, close it, and attach the split ring.

Final Blocking

1. Lightly mist the charm with water until it’s damp but not soaked.
2. Lay it RS up on the blocking board.
3. Pin each outer corner square, measuring 3.4 in × 3.4 in (8.6 cm × 8.6 cm).
4. Pin into both inner points, the top notch and the bottom gap, to sharpen the V shapes.
5. Check that both legs are 1.4 in (3.6 cm) wide including the border, and adjust if needed.
6. Let it dry completely, about 6 hours.
7. Do the flower placement after blocking, or block before the flowers go on, so the petals stay rounded.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

• Size is 3.4 in × 3.4 in (8.6 cm × 8.6 cm).
• The border has exactly 104 sts and lies flat with no ruffling.
• All 8 outer corners are crisp and square.
• The gap and notch points are sharp and centered.
• Both legs are the same width.
• Flowers are stacked correctly and stitched securely, with no gaps.
• The jump ring is fully closed and no wire ends can snag yarn.
• All ends are woven in on the WS.

Troubleshooting

• Edge ruffles: You probably added extra sc along the row ends. Use exactly 1 sc per row end.
• Edge cups or pulls in: The sl st round is too tight. Redo Rnd 2 more loosely or with a 3.5 mm hook.
• Inner points bunch: Replace the single sc at the point with an sc2tog worked over the row ends on either side of it, then count 103 sts and repeat that change at the other point to get 102.
• Legs uneven: One leg probably has an extra row. Recount: each leg should have exactly 8 rows before Row 9.
• Charm feels floppy: Go down a hook size, or glue or sew a felt backing to the WS.

Care

Hand wash in cool water, press out the moisture in a towel, and lay flat to dry. Remove the metal hardware before washing if you can.

Final Notes

The measurement chain is short and reliable. Your gauge is 5 sts and 6 rows per 1 in (2.5 cm). Each leg is 1 in (2.5 cm) wide, and the letter body is 15 sts × 18 rows, or 3 in × 3 in (7.6 cm × 7.6 cm). A 104-stitch border adds 0.2 in (0.5 cm) per side, for a finished charm of 3.4 in × 3.4 in (8.6 cm × 8.6 cm). Check each stage before moving on, and your M will come out square and sharp every time.

Happy crocheting!