This hanging holder keeps three spare toilet rolls tidy and in sight. It is made of three lavender lace baskets stacked on two cream straps. Each basket has a solid base, two staggered tiers of open fans and a soft scalloped cream rim.
The colors are a light lavender for the baskets and a warm cream for the rims and straps. The cream edging frames each basket and matches the straps, so the whole holder looks like one piece.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. Each basket is about 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across and 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall. The assembled holder hangs about 20.25 in (51.4 cm) from the top point to the bottom of the lowest basket.
Construction is simple. You make each basket from the bottom up: a flat single crochet circle, a ridge that turns the work upward, a solid band, two lace tiers and a cream scalloped rim. Next you make two cream straps and sew them to opposite sides of all three baskets. Finally, you join the strap tops to form the hanging point.
Finished Size and Construction
- Basket size: 5.5 in (14.0 cm) diameter × 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall
- Hanging length: about 20.25 in (51.4 cm)
- Skill level: Easy-intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 5.0 mm (US H-8)
- Number of pieces: 5 (3 baskets, 2 straps)
- Layout: 3 baskets stacked in a single column, 2 in (5.1 cm) gaps between them
- Base diameter: 5.5 in (14.0 cm), 66 sts
- Wall height before rim: 3 in (7.6 cm)
- Rim (border) depth: 0.75 in (1.9 cm)
- Strap length: 22 in (55.9 cm) each, 0.5 in (1.3 cm) wide
Materials
Use a smooth worsted-weight cotton. Cotton holds its shape, shows the lace clearly and stands up to a humid bathroom. Avoid fuzzy or very stretchy yarn, because the straps and basket walls need to stay firm.
- Lavender (Color A): 130 g / about 221 m
- Cream (Color B): 50 g / about 85 m
These amounts are based on worsted cotton at about 170 m per 100 g, and they include a safety margin.
Tools:
– 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
– Tapestry needle
– Stitch markers (at least 4)
– Scissors
– Measuring tape
– Rust-proof pins
– One toilet roll, for shaping and blocking
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- dc: double crochet
- st(s): stitch(es)
- sp: space
- BLO: back loop only
- rnd: round
- rep: repeat
Special stitch – Fan: Work (dc, ch 1) 4 times, then dc, all in the same stitch. Each fan has 5 dc and 4 ch-1 sps.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 15 sc × 16 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc with a 5.0 mm hook.
Before making all three, finish one complete basket, rim included, and measure it. Every later measurement depends on the base matching this gauge.
Checkpoints:
– After Rnd 4 (24 sts): base is 2 in (5.1 cm) across.
– After Rnd 6 (36 sts): base is 3 in (7.6 cm) across.
– After Rnd 8 (48 sts): base is 4 in (10.2 cm) across.
– After Rnd 11 (66 sts): base is 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across.
– After Rnd 14: solid wall band is 0.75 in (1.9 cm) tall.
– After Rnd 18: wall is 3 in (7.6 cm) tall.
– After Rnd 20: basket is 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall.
If your base is too big: go down to a 4.5 mm hook. If it is too small: go up to a 5.5 mm hook. Keep the stitch counts the same, because the lace repeats need exactly 66 stitches. If the base cups, your tension is too tight, so relax your grip. If it ruffles, go down a hook size.
Basket Pattern (Make 3)
Use Color A. At the end of each round, join with a sl st to the first st. The ch 1 at the start of a round does not count as a stitch.
Base
Rnd 1: Make a magic ring, ch 1, 6 sc in the ring, join. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, join. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around, join. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep around, join. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep around, ending sc in last 2 sts, join. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep around, join. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep around, ending sc in last 3 sts, join. (42 sts)
Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep around, join. (48 sts)
Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep around, ending sc in last 4 sts, join. (54 sts)
Rnd 10: Ch 1, sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep around, join. (60 sts)
Rnd 11: Ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep around, ending sc in last 5 sts, join. (66 sts)
Checkpoint: the base lies flat and measures 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across. Moving the increases from round to round keeps the circle round instead of hexagonal.
Solid Wall Band
Rnd 12: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around, join. (66 sts)
The unused front loops make a ridge that turns the work upward to start the wall.
Rnds 13–14: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (66 sts)
Checkpoint: the band is 0.75 in (1.9 cm) tall, and the walls stand straight.
Lace Tier 1
Rnd 15: Ch 1, sc in the same st as the join, skip 2 sts, Fan in next st, skip 2 sts, sc in next st. Rep from * around, leaving out the last sc, and join to the first sc.
Count: 11 Fans (55 dc, 44 ch-1 sps) and 11 sc. Each repeat uses 6 stitches, and 11 × 6 = 66.
Rnd 16: Sl st in the next dc, ch-1 sp, dc, ch-1 sp and center dc (5 sl sts). Ch 1, sc in the same center dc, ch 3, dc in next sc, ch 3, sc in center dc of next Fan. Rep from * around, leaving out the last sc, and join to the first sc.
Count: 11 sc, 11 dc, 22 ch-3 sps.
Lace Tier 2 (Staggered)
Rnd 17: Ch 1, sc in the same st as the join, Fan in next dc, sc in next sc, skipping all ch-3 sps. Rep from * around, leaving out the last sc, and join.
Count: 11 Fans and 11 sc. These fans sit above the dc between the first-tier fans, which staggers the two tiers.
Rnd 18: Repeat Rnd 16. Fasten off Color A.
Count: 11 sc, 11 dc, 22 ch-3 sps.
Checkpoint: the wall is 3 in (7.6 cm) tall. Open the fans with your fingers so the spokes spread out evenly.
Make All Pieces
Baskets: Make 3 baskets in Color A and add the cream rim (see Border) to each one before joining. Each basket uses about 40 g of Color A and 6 g of Color B.
Straps (make 2, Color B):
Row 1: Ch 84. Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (83 sc)
Row 2: Do not turn. Ch 1 and work sl st in each st back along the free loops of the foundation chain. (83 sl sts)
This makes a firm, rounded cord. Checkpoint: each strap is 22 in (55.9 cm) long and 0.5 in (1.3 cm) wide. Each strap uses about 10 g of Color B. If your strap is more than 0.5 in (1.3 cm) off, change the foundation chain by 2 sts for every 0.5 in (1.3 cm).
Layout (front view):
/\ ← strap tops joined (1 in overlap)
/ \ ← 5.75 in legs
|[B1]| ← top basket
| | ← 2 in gap
|[B2]| ← middle basket
| | ← 2 in gap
|[B3]| ← bottom basket
strap strap
left right
Joining
Placement: Lay a basket flat. Place a marker in the Rnd 12 ridge, then a second marker on the opposite side, exactly 33 sts away. Do this on all three baskets. 33 + 33 = 66, so the straps sit directly across from each other.
Strap length used:
– 3 baskets × 3.75 in (9.5 cm) = 11.25 in (28.6 cm) attached to the walls
– 2 gaps × 2 in (5.1 cm) = 4 in (10.2 cm)
– 5.75 in (14.6 cm) top leg
– 1 in (2.5 cm) top overlap
Total: 22 in (55.9 cm).
Method:
1. Line up the end of one strap with the Rnd 12 ridge of the bottom basket, at one marker.
2. With Color B and a tapestry needle, whipstitch both long edges of the strap to the outside wall. Go straight up through Rnds 12–19, catching the sc band, the dc posts and the cream sc round. Do not sew through the scallops. Let the strap pass behind them so the edging still shows.
3. Measure a 2 in (5.1 cm) gap above the rim. Place the middle basket so its Rnd 12 ridge lines up there, and sew it the same way.
4. Leave another 2 in (5.1 cm) gap and sew on the top basket.
5. Repeat Steps 1–4 with the second strap on the opposite markers. Measure the gaps on both sides so the baskets hang level.
6. Bring the free strap ends together above the top basket. Overlap them by 1 in (2.5 cm) and sew through both layers twice.
Tension: Make the stitches snug, but don’t pucker the lace. The weight of the rolls hangs on these seams, so stitch over the dc posts and not the chain spaces.
Size checkpoint: Hang the holder empty. It should measure about 20.25 in (51.4 cm) from the top point to the bottom of the lowest basket, and the gaps should still be 2 in (5.1 cm).
Border: Cream Scalloped Rim
Work this rim on each basket after Rnd 18 and before joining.
Border gauge: Rnd 19 must have exactly 66 sc, the same count as the base. The rim then matches the base circumference of about 17.25 in (43.8 cm), so it neither flares nor pulls in.
Rnd 19 (conversion round): Join Color B with a sl st in any sc of Rnd 18. Ch 1, sc in the same st, 2 sc in next ch-3 sp, sc in next dc, 2 sc in next ch-3 sp, sc in next sc. Rep from * around, leaving out the last sc, and join.
Count: 22 sts worked 1 into each existing stitch (11 sc + 11 dc) + 44 sts added in the ch-3 sps (22 sps × 2) = 66 sc.
Rnd 20 (scallop round): Ch 1, sc in the same st, skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, skip 2 sts, sc in next st. Rep from * around, leaving out the last sc, and join. Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Count: 11 scallops (55 dc) + 11 sc.
Why the math works: each scallop uses 6 stitches, and 11 × 6 = 66. Every repeat of the wall also covers 6 base stitches, so there is one scallop per lace repeat. The circle closes evenly, with no extra or missing stitches at the join.
Checkpoint: the rim adds 0.75 in (1.9 cm), so the basket is 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall in total.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends before blocking.
- Mist each basket lightly with water until it is damp but not soaked.
- Slide a toilet roll inside, or a roll wrapped in a towel if you need a little more width, so the wall stands upright at 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across.
- Pinch each fan open and pin the scallops so they sit evenly around the rim.
- Pin the straps out straight on a towel at 22 in (55.9 cm) if you block them before joining.
- Let everything dry completely, usually 12–24 hours.
- Take out the pins and check every measurement again before hanging.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each base is 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across and lies flat.
- Each basket has 11 fans in each lace tier and 11 cream scallops.
- Each basket is 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall.
- The straps are 22 in (55.9 cm) long and sit exactly opposite each other.
- The gaps between baskets are 2 in (5.1 cm) on both sides.
- The baskets hang level, with no tilt.
- The scallops show in front of the straps.
- All ends are woven in and the top joint is secure.
Troubleshooting
The base curls up: you have too few stitches for your tension. Check the counts or loosen up.
The base ruffles: your tension is too loose or you have extra increases. Go down a hook size.
The fans lean or twist: you may have miscounted the 5 starting sl sts in Rnd 16 or 18. Make sure each sc sits in the center dc.
The rim flares: count Rnd 19. It must be exactly 66 sc.
The rim pulls in: your tension tightened when you switched colors. Work Rnd 19 more loosely.
A basket tilts: the straps are not opposite each other. Re-count 33 sts between the markers.
The straps stretch: the strap is too loose. Remake it with a smaller hook or tighten Row 2.
A roll is hard to remove: tilt it forward. The front opening between the straps allows this.
Care
Hand wash in cool water and lay flat on a towel to dry, reshaping each basket around a toilet roll. Don’t tumble dry or hang the holder while it is wet, because the straps may stretch.
Final Notes
Everything in this holder follows from your gauge. 15 sc to 4 in (10.2 cm) gives a 66-stitch base that is 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across. Those 66 stitches carry 11 lace repeats up a 3 in (7.6 cm) wall and finish as 11 cream scallops, for a basket 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall. Two 22 in (55.9 cm) straps hold three baskets with 2 in (5.1 cm) gaps, giving a holder about 20.25 in (51.4 cm) long. Check the first basket carefully, and the other two will match it.
Happy crocheting!