This hanging toilet paper holder has three seashell-shaped baskets stacked on two slim straps. Raised ribs fan out over the sides of each basket, and a scalloped rim finishes the top, so every tier looks like a small open clamshell.
The sample uses a single periwinkle blue in a bulky cotton-blend yarn. The color is soft and pairs well with brass, wood and white fixtures. The texture is chunky and holds its shape, so the baskets stand open even when empty. This pattern uses US crochet terms throughout.
Each basket measures about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) across the base, 6.75 in (17.1 cm) across the rim and 4 in (10.2 cm) tall. Hung up, the holder is about 16 in (40.6 cm) from the top of the strap fold to the bottom of the lowest basket, not counting the ring.
Here is the construction in brief. You work each basket in joined rounds: first a flat double crochet base, then a back-loop round that turns the wall upward, then the ribbed sides. Next you make two straps in rows and sew them to the outside of the baskets. Last, you add the scalloped rim to each basket and fold the straps over a wooden ring.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: about 6.75 in (17.1 cm) wide x 16 in (40.6 cm) long, plus the ring
- Skill level: Intermediate (front post stitches, working in rounds)
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Bulky (#5)
- Hook: 6.0 mm (US J-10)
- Number of pieces: 5 (3 baskets, 2 straps)
- Layout: 3 baskets stacked vertically, joined by 2 side straps
- Piece size: each basket is 4.5 in (11.4 cm) at the base, 6.75 in (17.1 cm) at the rim and 4 in (10.2 cm) tall. Each strap is 20 in (50.8 cm) x 0.8 in (2.0 cm).
- Size before border: basket body (Rounds 1–10) is 3.4 in (8.6 cm) tall
- Border depth: scalloped rim adds 0.6 in (1.5 cm)
Materials
Yarn: Use a bulky (#5) cotton or cotton-blend yarn of about 120 m per 100 g. Cotton keeps the ribs crisp and won’t stretch much under the weight of the rolls. Acrylic also works, but it makes a slightly softer basket.
- Periwinkle blue: 200 g, about 240 m (262 yd)
These quantities include a margin of about 20% for your gauge swatch and sewing tails.
Tools:
– 6.0 mm (US J-10) crochet hook
– Wooden ring, 3 in (7.6 cm) diameter
– Tapestry needle
– 4 locking stitch markers
– Scissors and a measuring tape
– Wall hook to hang the finished holder
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- BLO – back loop only
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rep – repeat
Special stitch – FPdc (front post double crochet): Yarn over. Insert the hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch below, so it goes in on one side of the post and out on the other. Yarn over and pull up a loop, then (yarn over, pull through 2 loops) twice. The stitch sits in front of the fabric and forms a raised rib.
Round notes: The ch-2 at the start of each round does not count as a stitch. Join every round with a sl st to the first stitch of that round.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 12 dc and 7 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm). For the straps: 12 hdc = 4 in (10.2 cm), and 2 hdc rows = 0.8 in (2.0 cm).
Test with one basket before making all three. The base is the best gauge swatch because every later measurement depends on it.
Checkpoints:
– After Round 2: base is 2.25 in (5.7 cm) across
– After Round 4: base is 4.5 in (11.4 cm) across
– After Round 10: body is 3.4 in (8.6 cm) tall from the BLO ridge, and the opening is about 6.75 in (17.1 cm) across
– Finished strap: 20 in (50.8 cm) long
If your base is too big: go down 0.5 mm in hook size. A basket that’s too wide will sag forward on the straps.
If your base is too small: go up 0.5 mm in hook size. A standard roll is about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide and has to sit inside comfortably.
Basket (Make 3)
Base
Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 2, then work 12 dc into the ring. Pull the ring closed and join. (12 sts)
Round 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each st around. Join. (24 sts)
Round 3: Ch 2, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st; rep from * around. Join. (36 sts)*
Round 4: Ch 2, dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from * around. Join. (48 sts)*
The base should lie flat and measure 4.5 in (11.4 cm) across.
Sides
Round 5 (turning round): Ch 2, dc in BLO of each st around. Join. (48 sts)
This leaves a neat ridge on the outside and turns the work upward into the wall.
Round 6 (rib set-up): Ch 2, dc in next st, [FPdc around next st, dc in next st] twice, FPdc around next st; rep from * 7 more times. Join. (48 sts: 8 repeats of 6)*
In each repeat, the first dc is the valley stitch. The 5 stitches after it form one fan with 3 ribs (FPdc, dc, FPdc, dc, FPdc).
Round 7 (growth): Ch 2, dc in valley st, FPdc around next st, 2 dc in next st, FPdc around next st, 2 dc in next st, FPdc around next st; rep from * around. Join. (64 sts: 8 repeats of 8)*
Each fan now has 7 stitches, so the ribs spread apart into a shell shape.
Rounds 8–10: Ch 2, dc in valley st, FPdc around next st, dc in next 2 sts, FPdc around next st, dc in next 2 sts, FPdc around next st; rep from * around. Join. (64 sts each round)*
Always work the FPdc around the FPdc below, so each rib stays one unbroken raised line.
After Round 10, fasten off with a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. Don’t work the rim yet; you’ll add it after joining (see Border).
Mark the strap points: On Round 10, put a marker in st 1, which is the first valley st. Put another marker in st 33, the valley directly opposite. Each side of the basket now has exactly 4 fans between the markers.
Straps (Make 2)
Foundation: Ch 62.
Row 1: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (60 hdc)
Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), hdc in each st across. (60 hdc) Fasten off and leave a 40 in (101.6 cm) tail for sewing.
Each strap measures 20 in (50.8 cm) x 0.8 in (2.0 cm). Starting from the bottom end, the strap stitches are used like this:
| Strap sts | Length | Use |
|---|---|---|
| 1–10 | 3.3 in (8.4 cm) | Sewn to Basket 3 |
| 11–14 | 1.3 in (3.3 cm) | Gap |
| 15–24 | 3.3 in (8.4 cm) | Sewn to Basket 2 |
| 25–28 | 1.3 in (3.3 cm) | Gap |
| 29–38 | 3.3 in (8.4 cm) | Sewn to Basket 1 |
| 39–54 | 5.3 in (13.5 cm) | Free V-section |
| 55–60 | 2 in (5.1 cm) | Folded over ring |
Total: 10 + 4 + 10 + 4 + 10 + 16 + 6 = 60 sts, which is 20 in (50.8 cm).
Make All Pieces
- Baskets: 3, through Round 10, in periwinkle blue
- Straps: 2, in periwinkle blue
Layout, front view:
[ ring ]
/ \
S S
S[B1 ] S
S S
S[B2 ] S
S S
S[B3 ] S
B = basket, S = strap. Basket 1 is at the top.
Joining
Method: Whipstitch the strap to the outside of each basket with the yarn tail.
Stitch-to-stitch logic: Center the strap over the marked valley column. Line up the bottom of strap st 1 with the Round 5 ridge of Basket 3. Each of the 6 body rounds (Rounds 5–10) is 3.4 in (8.6 cm) tall in total, and it gets 10 strap stitches, about 3.3 in (8.4 cm). That small difference eases in without puckering. Sew along both long edges of the strap, catching one strand of each round’s stitch on either side of the valley column.
Leave strap sts 11–14 free, then sew sts 15–24 to Basket 2 the same way, and sts 29–38 to Basket 1. Sew the second strap to the opposite markers on all three baskets, checking that both straps sit at the same height.
Tension: Pull each whipstitch snug but not tight. Stitching that’s too tight will pull the rib lines sideways.
Size checkpoint: Lay the piece flat. From the Round 5 ridge of Basket 3 to the top of Basket 1’s Round 10 should be about 12.7 in (32.3 cm), which is 38 strap sts.
Border: Scalloped Rim
Border gauge: One 7-dc scallop over 8 stitches is about 2.7 in (6.9 cm) wide and 0.6 in (1.5 cm) tall.
Join the yarn to the marked valley st (st 1) of Round 10 on each basket. The straps sit on the outside and aren’t worked into.
Round 11: Ch 1, sc in valley st, skip next 3 sts (FPdc, dc, dc), 7 dc in top of next st (the center FPdc), skip next 3 sts (dc, dc, FPdc); rep from * 7 more times. Join to first sc. Fasten off and weave in the end. (8 sc + 56 dc = 64 sts)*
Counts per side: Between the strap markers there are 4 fans of 8 sts each, so 32 sts per side. That’s 4 sc + 28 dc. The two sides together give 64 sts.
Why the math works: Each 8-stitch repeat is 1 valley + 3 skipped + 1 center + 3 skipped = 8, so the rim uses every stitch of Round 10 with nothing left over. Each scallop sits over the center rib of its fan, so the ribs appear to fan up into the scallop. The sc lands on the valley, and at the two strap points that sc sits over the strap’s center, which hides the top of your sewing.
Final Blocking
- Fold strap sts 55–60, the top 2 in (5.1 cm), of both straps over the wooden ring, with one strap overlapping the other. Sew them through all layers.
- Lightly mist the whole holder with water.
- Fill each basket with a roll or a rolled towel so it dries in a rounded shape.
- Pinch each scallop into an even curve and push the ribs straight.
- Hang the holder from the ring and let it dry completely, about 24 hours.
- Check that all three baskets hang level. If one tips, adjust the straps.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each basket has 64 sts in Rounds 7–11
- There are 8 even scallops per basket, each centered over a fan
- Ribs run unbroken from Round 6 to the rim
- Both straps are 20 in (50.8 cm) long with 60 hdc per row
- Straps are centered over opposite valley columns
- The gaps between baskets are 1.3 in (3.3 cm) on both sides
- The ring fold is secure and all ends are woven in
- A roll sits inside each basket without forcing
Troubleshooting
Ribs lean in a spiral: You’re working around the wrong post. Count from the valley stitch in every repeat.
Basket flares too much: Your gauge is loose. Go down a hook size, or work Round 7 with a tighter tension.
Basket won’t hold a roll: Your base is under 4.5 in (11.4 cm). Go up a hook size and redo it.
Scallops ruffle: Work 6 dc instead of 7 in each scallop (8 sc + 48 dc = 56 sts).
Holder tilts forward: The straps are sewn too low. Re-sew them so the top edge of each sewn section lines up with Round 10.
Straps stretch over time: Use cotton, or add a row of sl sts along each strap edge.
Care
Hand wash in cool water and lay flat to dry, with the baskets shaped over rolled towels. Avoid tumble drying, because it softens the ribs.
Final Notes
The measurement chain runs like this. A gauge of 12 dc = 4 in (10.2 cm) gives a 4.5 in (11.4 cm) base. Six side rounds bring the body to 3.4 in (8.6 cm) tall, and the 0.6 in (1.5 cm) rim makes a 4 in (10.2 cm) basket. Each 20 in (50.8 cm) strap carries three baskets with 1.3 in (3.3 cm) gaps, for a holder about 16 in (40.6 cm) long. If you check each step before moving on, the finished piece will hang straight and look tidy.
Happy crocheting!