The Emerald Cascade holder stacks three round shell-stitch baskets on two slim straps and hangs from a wooden ring. Each basket holds one standard toilet roll, so the holder keeps spares in easy reach and adds a bit of color to a plain bathroom wall.
The palette uses four greens. Dark emerald is used for the bases and straps, and lime, jade teal and bright turquoise are used for the shell bands. The scalloped rims shade from dark at the top to light at the bottom, so the stack has a soft gradient.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. Each basket measures 5.25 in (13.3 cm) across and 3 in (7.6 cm) tall. The whole holder hangs about 18 in (45.7 cm) from the top of the ring to the bottom of the lowest basket.
Construction is simple. You crochet a flat base in rounds, turn up the wall with a back-loop round, and then work staggered shell rounds. Next you make two straps, sew them to the baskets, and fold them over the ring. Last, you add the scalloped rim to each basket.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: about 18 in (45.7 cm) hanging length; about 5.75 in (14.6 cm) wide at the rims
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: worsted (#4) cotton
- Hook: 5 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 5 crocheted pieces (3 baskets, 2 straps) plus 1 wooden ring
- Layout: 1 column of 3 baskets stacked vertically, with 1 in (2.5 cm) gaps between them
- Piece size: each basket is 5.25 in (13.3 cm) across; each strap is 17.5 in (44.5 cm) × 0.7 in (1.8 cm)
- Size before border: basket wall is 2.5 in (6.4 cm) tall
- Border (rim) depth: 0.5 in (1.3 cm), so the finished wall is 3 in (7.6 cm)
Materials
Use a smooth 100% cotton or cotton-blend worsted yarn. Cotton holds its shape, takes steam well and copes with bathroom humidity. Acrylic also works, but the baskets will be softer. The amounts below assume about 80 m per 50 g (87 yd per 50 g).
- Color A, dark emerald: 90 g / 144 m (157 yd) for bases, straps and the top rim
- Color B, jade teal: 35 g / 56 m (61 yd) for shell bands and the middle rim
- Color C, bright turquoise: 25 g / 40 m (44 yd) for shell bands
- Color D, lime green: 55 g / 88 m (96 yd) for shell bands and the bottom rim
All quantities include a margin of about 25%.
Tools:
– 5 mm (H-8) crochet hook
– 1 wooden ring, 3 in (7.6 cm) outside diameter
– Locking stitch markers (at least 8)
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– Tape measure
– Rust-proof pins
– One toilet roll in a plastic bag (used as a blocking form)
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
- dc: double crochet
- BLO: back loop only
- sk: skip
- st(s): stitch(es)
- R: round or row
Special stitches
- Standing sc: Start with a slip knot on the hook. Insert the hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through both loops.
- 5-dc shell: Work 5 dc in the same stitch. The 3rd dc is the center dc.
- 7-dc shell: Work 7 dc in the same stitch. The 4th dc is the center dc.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Make one complete basket before you start the others. It is your gauge swatch, and it is the only reliable test of fit.
- Single crochet gauge: 16 sc × 18 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm)
- Shell gauge: one shell repeat (6 sts) = 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide; one shell round = 0.5 in (1.3 cm) tall
Checkpoints
- After R6 (36 sts), the base is about 2.9 in (7.4 cm) across.
- After R11 (66 sts), the base is 5.25 in (13.3 cm) across, with a circumference of 16.5 in (41.9 cm).
- After R13, the sc wall band is about 0.45 in (1.1 cm) tall.
- After R17, the wall is 2.5 in (6.4 cm) tall.
If the base is too big, go down to a 4.5 mm hook. If it is too small, go up to a 5.5 mm hook. Check that a roll drops in easily, with no more than 0.5 in (1.3 cm) of gap on each side. Don’t add or remove rounds, because the shell pattern needs exactly 66 stitches.
Basket (Make 3)
Work the base in joined rounds. Join each round with a sl st to the first sc, and start each round with ch 1, which does not count as a stitch.
Base (Color A)
- R1: Make a magic ring and work 6 sc into it. (6)
- R2: Inc in each st around. (12)
- R3: Sc 1, inc; repeat 6 times. (18)
- R4: Sc 2, inc; repeat 6 times. (24)
- R5: Sc 3, inc; repeat 6 times. (30)
- R6: Sc 4, inc; repeat 6 times. (36)
- R7: Sc 5, inc; repeat 6 times. (42)
- R8: Sc 6, inc; repeat 6 times. (48)
- R9: Sc 7, inc; repeat 6 times. (54)
- R10: Sc 8, inc; repeat 6 times. (60)
- R11: Sc 9, inc; repeat 6 times. (66)
Lay the base flat and check Checkpoint 2.
Wall Turn (Color A)
- R12: Sc BLO in each st around. (66)
The unworked front loops make a crisp fold, and the wall begins to rise.
– R13: Sc in each st around. (66)
Change to Color D on the final sl st. Fasten off A.
Shell Bands
- R14 (D), set-up shell round: Ch 1, sc in the first st. Sk 2, 5 dc in the next st, sk 2, sc in the next st; repeat from * 9 more times. Then sk 2, 5 dc in the next st, sk 2, and sl st to the first sc.
The count is 11 shells + 11 sc = 11 sc + 55 dc = 66 sts.
– R15 (D), offset shell round: Sl st in the next 2 dc. Ch 1, sc in the next dc (the center dc). 5 dc in the next sc, sc in the center dc of the next shell; repeat from * 9 more times. Then 5 dc in the last sc and sl st to the first sc. (66)
Fasten off D.
– R16 (B): Work a standing sc in the center dc of any shell. 5 dc in the next sc, sc in the center dc of the next shell; repeat from * 9 more times. Then 5 dc in the next sc and sl st to the first sc. (66)
Fasten off.
– R17 (C): Repeat R16. (66)
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Each shell now sits between two shells of the round below, which gives the scale pattern. Leave the rim until after joining.
Strap (Make 2)
Use Color A.
- Foundation: Ch 71.
- R1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (70)
Turn.
– R2–R3: Ch 1, sc in each st across. (70)
Turn.
Fasten off, leaving a 24 in (61.0 cm) tail. Each strap measures 17.5 in (44.5 cm) × 0.7 in (1.8 cm).
Mark each strap, counting stitches from the end without the tail:
- Sts 1–10: bottom basket, 2.5 in (6.4 cm)
- Sts 11–16: gap, 1.5 in (3.8 cm)
- Sts 17–26: middle basket
- Sts 27–32: gap
- Sts 33–42: top basket
- Sts 43–70: rise to the ring plus the wrap, 7 in (17.8 cm)
Check the total: 10 + 6 + 10 + 6 + 10 + 28 = 70.
Make All Pieces
| Piece | Color A | Color B | Color C | Color D |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Basket 1 (top) | R1–R13 + rim | R16 | R17 | R14–R15 |
| Basket 2 (middle) | R1–R13 | R16 + rim | R17 | R14–R15 |
| Basket 3 (bottom) | R1–R13 | R16 | R17 | R14–R15 + rim |
| Straps × 2 | all | — | — | — |
Layout grid (front view):
( wooden ring )
/ \
Strap 1 Strap 2
[ Basket 1 - rim A ]
1 in gap
[ Basket 2 - rim B ]
1 in gap
[ Basket 3 - rim D ]
Joining
Method: Whipstitch with Color A through both long edges of each strap into the outside of each basket wall.
Placement: On R13 of each basket, put a marker in any st (call it st 1) and another in st 34. That puts the two markers 33 sts apart, exactly opposite each other (66 ÷ 2 = 33). Center Strap 1 on the first marker and Strap 2 on the second.
Stitch-to-stitch logic: The strap runs vertically, so its stitches line up with the basket’s rounds:
- Strap sts 1–2 sit alongside R12–R13, which are 0.45 in (1.1 cm) tall.
- Strap sts 3–10 sit alongside R14–R17, at 2 strap sts per shell round.
That makes 10 strap sts per basket, matching the 2.5 in (6.4 cm) wall.
Order of work:
- Sew sts 1–10 to the bottom basket, from the base fold (R12) up to the top of R17.
- Leave sts 11–16 free.
- Sew sts 17–26 to the middle basket.
- Leave sts 27–32 free.
- Sew sts 33–42 to the top basket.
- Repeat steps 1–5 with the second strap on the opposite side of each basket.
Tension: Pull each whipstitch snug but not tight. If the wall puckers inward, your stitches are too tight. Take one stitch per strap row on each edge, and keep the straps straight and vertical.
Ring:
- Bring both strap tops up to the bottom of the ring, side by side.
- Wrap sts 61–65 of each strap over the ring.
- Fold sts 66–70 back down and whipstitch them to the back of sts 56–60.
- Optional: just below the ring, wind Color A 10 times around both straps together and knot the yarn inside the wrap.
Size checkpoint: From the top of R17 on the top basket to the base fold of the bottom basket, the stack should measure 10.5 in (26.7 cm). Each strap should rise 4.5 in (11.4 cm) from the top basket to the ring.
Border: Scalloped Rim
Work this border on each basket after joining, in the rim color shown in the table. Work through the basket stitches only and leave the straps free.
Border gauge: One 7-dc scallop covers one 1.5 in (3.8 cm) shell repeat and flares to about 1.6 in (4.1 cm) at its edge. The rim adds 0.5 in (1.3 cm) of height.
- R18: Work a standing sc in the center dc of any shell. 7 dc in the next sc, sc in the center dc of the next shell; repeat from * 9 more times. Then 7 dc in the next sc and sl st to the first sc.
The count is (66 sts worked 1-per-existing-st) + (22 extra dc, 2 per shell × 11) = 88 sts, made up of 11 sc + 77 dc.
– R19: Sl st loosely in each st around. (88)
Join and fasten off.
This round has no corners or sides, so check the count by repeat: each of the 11 repeats has 8 sts (1 sc + 7 dc), and 11 × 8 = 88.
Why the math works: The base ends on 66 sts, and 66 ÷ 6 = 11, so every shell round closes evenly with 11 repeats and nothing left over. Adding 2 dc to each shell in R18 gives the extra width the scallops need to flare out to about 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across without rippling. The sl st round adds no stitches, so it firms the edge without changing the shape.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends inside the baskets, running them through same-color stitches.
- Mist each basket with water until it is damp but not wet.
- Slide a bagged toilet roll into each basket and push the base fold flat against the roll.
- Ease each scallop outward with your fingers and pin the scallop points evenly, so they spread to about 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across.
- Hang the holder by its ring so the straps straighten under the weight. Check that the gaps between baskets measure 1 in (2.5 cm).
- Let it dry completely, about 24 hours. Then remove the pins and bags.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each base lies flat at 5.25 in (13.3 cm) across.
- Every shell round has 11 shells and 66 sts.
- Each rim has 11 scallops and 88 sts.
- The straps sit exactly opposite each other on every basket.
- Every basket hangs level.
- The gaps between baskets are an even 1 in (2.5 cm).
- The ring sits centered above the top basket.
- No yarn ends show on the outside.
- A roll drops in and lifts out easily.
Troubleshooting
- The base cups or ruffles: If it cups, use a larger hook. If it ruffles, use a smaller hook. Recheck Checkpoint 2.
- Shells don’t stack: You started the round in the wrong stitch. Every sc must land in a center dc, and every shell must land in an sc.
- The last repeat comes out uneven: Your count is off. Recount the previous round to 66 sts.
- A basket tilts: One strap is sewn higher than the other. Unpick it and re-align it with the marked strap stitches.
- The rim flops: Work R19 a little tighter, or block with a light spray of starch.
- The straps stretch: Cotton relaxes over time. Add one extra row of sc to each strap before joining.
Care
Hand wash in cool water, roll in a towel to press out the water, and dry flat with a roll inside each basket. Steam lightly to refresh the scallops.
Final Notes
The measurement chain runs like this:
- The base has 66 sts and measures 5.25 in (13.3 cm) across.
- Five shell rounds of 66 sts build a 2.5 in (6.4 cm) wall.
- The 88-st rim adds 0.5 in (1.3 cm), for a 3 in (7.6 cm) wall.
- Each 70-st strap is 17.5 in (44.5 cm) long and holds three baskets with 1 in (2.5 cm) gaps.
- The finished holder hangs about 18 in (45.7 cm) from a 3 in (7.6 cm) ring.
Check each stage against its number before moving on, and all three baskets will match.
Happy crocheting!