This hanging holder has four round baskets on two straps. It stores four spare toilet rolls in a small space. The baskets are worked in deep plum cotton with a cream picot rim. The lacy cluster band shows triangular openings, so you can see the white rolls through the wall.
The style is part farmhouse, part vintage bathroom. Each basket starts with a flat round base, which turns sharply into a straight wall. The wall has a band of staggered clusters and finishes with a two-round cream border. All instructions use US crochet terms.
Each basket measures 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across and 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall, picots included. A standard roll, about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide, fits loosely and sits about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) above the rim. The crocheted assembly is 12.5 in (31.8 cm) wide and hangs 12.4 in (31.5 cm) below the dowel.
How it’s built: you make four baskets in one piece each, base to rim. Then you make two straps in rows. Each strap is sewn to the back of two baskets and folded over a 14 in (35.6 cm) wooden dowel. The dowel rests on two wall hooks.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 12.5 in (31.8 cm) wide x 12.4 in (31.5 cm) hanging below the dowel
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
- Hook: 4.0 mm (G-6)
- Number of pieces: 6 crocheted pieces (4 baskets, 2 straps)
- Layout: 2 columns x 2 rows
- Piece size: basket 5.5 in (14.0 cm) diameter x 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall; strap 1.25 in (3.2 cm) x 16 in (40.6 cm)
- Basket wall before border: 3.1 in (7.9 cm)
- Border depth: 0.4 in (1.0 cm), including picots
Materials
Use 100% cotton or a cotton blend that is firm and smooth. Cotton holds its shape, so the baskets stay upright. It also handles bathroom humidity better than acrylic. Avoid fuzzy yarn because it hides the cluster openings.
- Plum (Color A): 200 g (approx. 340 m)
- Cream (Color B): 30 g (approx. 50 m)
These amounts include a safety margin of about 20%. One basket uses about 35 g of plum and 5 g of cream. One strap uses about 12 g of plum.
Tools and hardware:
– 4.0 mm (G-6) crochet hook
– Yarn needle
– 4 stitch markers
– Measuring tape
– Wooden dowel, 0.75 in (1.9 cm) thick x 14 in (35.6 cm) long
– 2 wall hooks, with screws and wall anchors
– Spray bottle, for blocking
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- inc – 2 sc in the same stitch
- dc – double crochet
- BLO – back loop only
- MR – magic ring
- sk – skip
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
Special stitches
Cluster (Cl): Work this in one stitch or space. [Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops] 3 times. Then yarn over and draw through all 4 loops on the hook.
Picot: Ch 3, then sl st in the 3rd ch from the hook.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc and 18 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm). Each cluster round is about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) tall.
Make one complete basket before you start the others, and measure it at each checkpoint below:
- After Rnd 6: base diameter is 2.75 in (7.0 cm).
- After Rnd 12: base diameter is 5.5 in (14.0 cm) and the circumference is about 18 in (45.7 cm).
- After Rnd 15: the wall is 0.7 in (1.8 cm) tall.
- After Rnd 19: the wall is 2.7 in (6.9 cm) tall.
- After Rnd 21: the wall is 3.1 in (7.9 cm) tall.
- After Rnd 23: the basket is 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall.
If your base is too big (more than 5.75 in / 14.6 cm), try a 3.75 mm hook. If it’s too small (under 5.25 in / 13.3 cm), try a 4.5 mm hook. Don’t add or remove rounds, because the wall needs exactly 72 stitches. If your base ruffles, your tension is too loose. If it cups, your tension is too tight.

Basket (make 4)
Base
Use Color A. Join every round with a sl st to the first sc. Start each round with ch 1, which does not count as a stitch.
Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in a MR. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc 6 times. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc 2, inc 6 times. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: Sc 3, inc 6 times. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: Sc 4, inc 6 times. (36 sts)
Checkpoint: 2.75 in (7.0 cm) across.
Rnd 7: Sc 5, inc 6 times. (42 sts)
Rnd 8: Sc 6, inc 6 times. (48 sts)
Rnd 9: Sc 7, inc 6 times. (54 sts)
Rnd 10: Sc 8, inc 6 times. (60 sts)
Rnd 11: Sc 9, inc 6 times. (66 sts)
Rnd 12: Sc 10, inc 6 times. (72 sts)
Checkpoint: 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across, lying flat.
Tip: on odd rounds from Rnd 7 onward, you can move the first increase over by a few stitches. This stops the base from turning into a hexagon.
Wall
Rnd 13 (turning round): Ch 1. Sc in the BLO of each st around, then join. (72 sts: 72 worked 1 per existing stitch + 0 added) The unused front loops make a ridge, and the work turns upward.
Rnds 14–15: Ch 1, sc in each st around, then join. (72 sts in each round)
Checkpoint: the wall is 0.7 in (1.8 cm) tall, measured from the ridge.
Rnd 16 (first cluster round): Ch 2 (does not count). Cl in the next st, ch 2, sk the next 2 sts 24 times. Join to the top of the first Cl. (24 Cl and 24 ch-2 sps)
Each repeat uses 3 stitches, and 24 x 3 = 72.
Rnd 17: Sl st into the first ch-2 sp, then ch 2. Cl in the ch-2 sp, ch 2 24 times. Join to the top of the first Cl. (24 Cl and 24 ch-2 sps)
Rnds 18–19: Repeat Rnd 17. (24 Cl and 24 ch-2 sps in each round)
Each cluster sits above a gap from the round below. This offset creates the triangular openings.
Checkpoint: the wall is 2.7 in (6.9 cm) tall.
Rnd 20 (conversion round): Ch 1. Sc in the top of the same Cl, then 2 sc in the next ch-2 sp. Sc in the next Cl, 2 sc in the next ch-2 sp 23 times. Join. (72 sts: 24 sc worked 1 per cluster + 48 sc in the ch-2 sps)
Rnd 21: Ch 1, sc in each st around, then join. (72 sts) Fasten off Color A.
Checkpoint: the wall is 3.1 in (7.9 cm) tall, measured before the border.
Border
Work the border on each basket separately, before you join the pieces.
Border gauge: 72 sc around a circumference of about 18 in (45.7 cm). That’s 4 sts per inch, the same as the body.
Rnd 22: Join Color B in any st. Ch 1, sc in each st around, then join. (72 sts)
Rnd 23 (picot round): Ch 1. Sc in the next 3 sts, picot 24 times. Join to the first sc and fasten off. (72 sc + 24 picots)
Why the math works: The wall has 24 cluster repeats of 3 stitches each, so 72 stitches. Rnds 20 and 22 return those repeats to exactly 72 single crochets. Rnd 23 uses 3 stitches per picot, so 72 ÷ 3 gives 24 picots, one above each cluster column. You don’t need extra stitches, so the rim stays flat. It won’t flare or pull in.
Checkpoint: the basket is 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall. The border is 0.4 in (1.0 cm) deep.
Weave in all ends on the inside.
Strap (make 2)
Use Color A.
Foundation: Ch 6.
Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. Turn. (5 sts)
Rows 2–72: Ch 1, sc in each st across, then turn. (5 sts in each row)
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Checkpoints: The strap is 1.25 in (3.2 cm) wide. Every 9 rows add about 2 in (5.1 cm). The finished strap is 16 in (40.6 cm) long.
Make All Pieces
- Color A: 4 basket bodies (Rnds 1–21) and 2 straps
- Color B: 4 borders (Rnds 22–23)
Layout (front view):
====== dowel ======
| |
[Basket 1] [Basket 2]
| |
[Basket 3] [Basket 4]
Basket 1 and Basket 3 go on Strap 1. Basket 2 and Basket 4 go on Strap 2.
Strap map, counted from Row 1 (the bottom end):
– Rows 1–15: lower basket, 3.3 in (8.4 cm)
– Rows 16–26: gap, 2.4 in (6.1 cm)
– Rows 27–41: upper basket, 3.3 in (8.4 cm)
– Rows 42–56: clear section below the dowel, 3.3 in (8.4 cm)
– Rows 57–72: fold-over loop, 3.6 in (9.1 cm)
Place a marker on Row 15, Row 27, Row 41, and Row 56.
Joining
Method: Whipstitch with Color A and the yarn needle.
Find the back of each basket: The wall is 18 in (45.7 cm) around at 4 sts per inch. That means the 1.25 in (3.2 cm) strap covers 5 wall stitches. Choose 5 stitch columns centered on the round joins, so the join line ends up hidden. Mark them.
Stitch-to-stitch logic:
1. Line up strap Row 1 with the turning ridge (Rnd 13) of a lower basket. Sew its 5 stitches to the 5 marked ridge stitches, one to one.
2. Sew up each long edge of the strap through Row 15, 1 row-end per stitch. Each sc round on the wall matches 1 strap row. Each cluster round matches about 2 strap rows. Row 15 should reach the cream sc round (Rnd 22). Leave the picots free.
3. Repeat for the upper basket on Rows 27–41. Its turning ridge sits on Row 27.
4. Wrap Rows 57–72 over the dowel toward the back. Sew Row 72 across the back of the strap at Row 56, 5 stitches to 5 stitches.
Tension: Pull each stitch until the edges touch, but not so tight that the wall puckers. Keep the sewing inside the cluster band light. If you pull hard through a ch-2 space, the opening closes up.
Spacing: Slide the straps on the dowel so their centers are 7 in (17.8 cm) apart. That leaves a 1.5 in (3.8 cm) gap between neighboring baskets.
Checkpoint: The assembly is 12.5 in (31.8 cm) wide and hangs 12.4 in (31.5 cm) below the dowel. Each basket should hang straight with its rim level.
Final Blocking
- Mist each basket until it’s damp. Don’t soak it.
- Put a toilet roll wrapped in a hand towel inside each basket, or any container 5.5 in (14.0 cm) wide.
- Smooth the base flat. Then press the turning ridge into a crisp edge.
- Pull each cluster column upright so the triangular openings line up.
- Pinch each picot into a round bump.
- Pin the straps flat on a towel, 1.25 in (3.2 cm) wide.
- Let everything dry completely, which takes about 24 hours.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each base has 72 stitches and measures 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across.
- Each cluster band has 24 clusters per round.
- Each picot round has 24 picots, 96 in total.
- Each basket is 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall.
- Each strap has 72 rows and is 1.25 in (3.2 cm) wide.
- The baskets on each strap are 2.4 in (6.1 cm) apart.
- The strap centers are 7 in (17.8 cm) apart.
- All ends are woven in on the inside.
- A roll fits loosely in each basket.
Troubleshooting
The base ruffles or cups. Re-check the increase pattern. Each round should add exactly 6 stitches. Change hook size if the problem continues.
The wall flares out. Your clusters are too loose. Go down 0.25 mm for Rnds 16–19 only.
The cluster columns spiral. You started the round in the wrong ch-2 space. Always sl st into the first ch-2 space before you make the ch 2.
The rim ruffles. Count Rnd 20. It must be 72 stitches, with no extra stitches at the join.
The basket tilts forward. The strap is sewn too low or too loosely. Re-sew it so Row 15 meets the cream round.
The roll is tight. Your base is under 5.25 in (13.3 cm). Remake it with a bigger hook.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, then reshape and dry flat. Take the baskets off the dowel before washing. Don’t tumble dry.

Final Notes
Here’s the full measurement chain. Each base has 72 stitches and is 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across. The wall keeps the same 72 stitches through 24 cluster repeats. Before the border it measures 3.1 in (7.9 cm). The 0.4 in (1.0 cm) border brings each basket to 3.5 in (8.9 cm). The straps are 16 in (40.6 cm) long and carry two baskets each, 2.4 in (6.1 cm) apart. Hung 7 in (17.8 cm) apart on the dowel, they make a holder 12.5 in (31.8 cm) wide. If each checkpoint matches, the finished holder will match.
Happy crocheting!