This Rose Trellis Bag Holder is a tall, slim crochet tube that hangs from a wall peg and keeps plastic grocery bags tidy. You stuff bags in through the top and pull them out one at a time through the bottom. Three rolled roses and soft green leaves climb the front, so it looks like a decoration and not just storage.
The body is dusty rose pink in dense single crochet, which gives it a neat, even texture. The roses are the same dusty pink, and the leaves and climbing stem are sage green. Both ends have a rounded, corded edge of reverse single crochet, and a narrow pink strap loops over the hook.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder is 13 in (33.0 cm) around and about 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide when flat, or about 4.1 in (10.4 cm) across when round. It is 14.5 in (36.8 cm) tall, not counting the strap.
Construction is simple. You crochet one seamless tube in joined rounds, starting at the bottom, then add a corded edge at each end. Then you make three rolled roses, nine leaves and one strap, add the stem with surface slip stitch, and sew everything in place.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 13 in (33.0 cm) around x 14.5 in (36.8 cm) tall; 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide when flat
- Skill level: Easy-intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 1 tube body, 3 roses (1 large, 2 small), 9 leaves and 1 strap. The stem is worked straight onto the body.
- Layout: One vertical spray on the front: a small rose at the top, a large rose in the middle and a small rose lower down, linked by one curving stem
- Body size before edging: 13 in (33.0 cm) around x 14 in (35.6 cm) tall
- Edging depth: about 0.25 in (0.6 cm) at each end
Materials
Choose a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. It holds its shape under the weight of the bags and makes crisp roses. Acrylic works too, but the tube will be a little softer.
- Dusty rose pink (body, roses, strap): 120 g, about 204 m (223 yd)
- Sage green (leaves, stem): 15 g, about 26 m (28 yd)
These amounts include a safety margin of about 15%.
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- 8–10 locking stitch markers
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Rolled towel or a 4 in (10.2 cm) wide cardboard tube, for blocking
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- hdc: half double crochet
- dc: double crochet
- fsc: foundation single crochet
- rev sc: reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
- st(s): stitch(es)
- rnd(s): round(s)
Reverse single crochet (rev sc): Work from left to right if you are right-handed. Insert the hook into the next stitch to the right, yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over again and pull through both loops. This makes the twisted, corded edge.
Surface slip stitch: Hold the yarn behind the work. Insert the hook from front to back between stitches and pull up a loop. Insert the hook at the next point along your line, pull up a loop and draw it through the loop on the hook.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc and 18 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm), in sc worked in joined rounds.
Test the first part of the actual tube before going further. Work Rnd 1, then 6 more rounds, and lay it flat. It should measure 6.5 in (16.5 cm) across. If it does, keep working on that piece.
Checkpoints:
- After Rnd 1: the ring measures 13 in (33.0 cm) around.
- After Rnd 18: the tube is 4 in (10.2 cm) tall.
- After Rnd 45: the tube is 10 in (25.4 cm) tall.
- After Rnd 63: the tube is 14 in (35.6 cm) tall.
- After the edgings: the tube is 14.5 in (36.8 cm) tall.
If your tube is too big, try a 4.5 mm hook. If it is too small, try a 5.5 mm hook. Keep the stitch count at 52 either way. Any circumference from 12.5 in (31.8 cm) to 13.5 in (34.3 cm) still works well. Height is easier to fix: add or remove rounds until the tube is 14 in (35.6 cm) tall.
Body
Use dusty rose pink. Work in joined rounds without turning, so the right side always faces you. The ch 1 at the start of each round does not count as a stitch.
Rnd 1: Fsc 52. Join with sl st to the first fsc, making sure the ring isn’t twisted. (52 sts)
Mark the join. It is the center back of the holder.
Rnds 2–63: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st to the first sc. (52 sts per rnd)
The join may drift a little as you go, so keep it at the back. Check the height at Rnds 18 and 45.
At the end of Rnd 63, the tube is 13 in (33.0 cm) around and 14 in (35.6 cm) tall. Don’t fasten off. Go straight to the top edging in the Border section.
Placement markers: Lay the tube flat with the join at center back. Counting from the join, sts 13 and 39 of Rnd 63 are the two side folds, so mark them. The front lies between them, centered between sts 26 and 27.
Roses
Use dusty rose pink. Each rose is a strip of sc with a row of shell petals, rolled into a spiral. Leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail on each rose for sewing.
Small Rose (make 2)
Foundation: Ch 25.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (24 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Work 6 petal repeats. Each repeat uses 4 sts.
- Petals 1–2: Skip 1 st, 5 hdc in next st, skip 1 st, sl st in next st. Repeat once more.
- Petals 3–6: Skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 st, sl st in next st. Repeat 3 more times.
Count check: 6 repeats x 4 sts = 24 sts used. (6 petals)
The flat strip is about 6 in (15.2 cm) long. Fasten off, leaving the long tail.
Large Rose (make 1)
Foundation: Ch 41.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (40 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Work 10 petal repeats of 4 sts each.
- Petals 1–3: Skip 1 st, 5 hdc in next st, skip 1 st, sl st in next st.
- Petals 4–7: Skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 st, sl st in next st.
- Petals 8–10: Skip 1 st, 7 dc in next st, skip 1 st, sl st in next st.
Count check: 10 repeats x 4 sts = 40 sts used. (10 petals)
The flat strip is about 10 in (25.4 cm) long. Fasten off, leaving the long tail.
Rolling the Roses
Start at the end with the smallest petals, which are the first ones you made. Roll the first two petals tightly to form the bud. Then roll more loosely so the larger petals open outward. Keep the sc row at the bottom.
Use the tail to sew through all layers at the base several times, in a cross pattern. The small roses are about 1.75 in (4.4 cm) across, and the large rose is about 2.75 in (7.0 cm) across. Keep the rest of the tail for sewing the rose on.
Leaves (make 9)
Use sage green.
Foundation: Ch 8.
Rnd 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch (6 sts), 3 sc in last ch (9 sts). Now work along the other side of the foundation chain: sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch. (15 sts) Sl st into the skipped first ch to make the pointed tip.
Each leaf is about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) long. Fasten off, leaving an 8 in (20.3 cm) tail.
Strap
Use dusty rose pink.
Foundation: Ch 41.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (40 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (40 sc)
The strap is 10 in (25.4 cm) long and about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) wide. Fasten off, leaving a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail.
Border (Corded Edging)
The border is one round of rev sc at each end of the tube, with one stitch worked into each stitch. It gives the rounded, rolled look and keeps the openings firm.
Border gauge: Rev sc is worked at the same 16 sts per 4 in (10.2 cm) as the body. Each edging adds about 0.25 in (0.6 cm) of height.
Top edging: With the loop from Rnd 63 still on the hook, ch 1. Work rev sc in each st around, moving to the right. Join with sl st to the first rev sc. (52 rev sc) Fasten off.
Bottom edging: Turn the tube upside down. Join pink with sl st in the st of Rnd 1 at center back. Ch 1, rev sc in each st around. Join with sl st to the first rev sc. (52 rev sc) Fasten off.
Why the math works: Each edging has 52 sts, the same as every body round. Spread around 13 in (33.0 cm), that is 4 sts per inch, which matches the body gauge. So the openings neither flare nor pull in. A tube has no corners, so you don’t add any extra stitches. Final height: 14 in (35.6 cm) + 0.25 in (0.6 cm) + 0.25 in (0.6 cm) = 14.5 in (36.8 cm).
Assembly
Measure every position from the bottom edge, on the front, centered between the side markers.
1. Stem. With sage green, work surface slip stitch on the front. Start 3.5 in (8.9 cm) above the bottom edge and stop at 12.5 in (31.8 cm). Let the line curve gently left and right, never more than 1 in (2.5 cm) from the center line. Add 3 short branches of about 1 in (2.5 cm) each, angled outward, for the leaves to sit on.
2. Roses. Pin each rose so its center sits on the stem line:
- Bottom small rose: center 5.5 in (14.0 cm) from the bottom
- Large rose: center 8.5 in (21.6 cm) from the bottom
- Top small rose: center 11.5 in (29.2 cm) from the bottom
Put a rolled towel inside the tube so you only sew through the front layer. Sew around the base of each rose. Then add a few stitches under the outer petals so they don’t flop.
3. Leaves. Place 3 leaves around the large rose and 2 at each small rose. Put the last 2 leaves on the stem between the roses. Sew each leaf down its center line only, so the edges lift a little. If you like, add a few straight stitches in green down the middle of each leaf as a vein.
4. Strap. Tuck 1 in (2.5 cm) of each strap end inside the top opening, at the side markers (sts 13 and 39). Sew each end firmly with a square of stitches and an X through the middle. Make sure the strap isn’t twisted. The free loop is 8 in (20.3 cm) long and rises about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) above the rim.
Weave in all ends on the inside of the tube.
Final Blocking
- Lightly dampen the tube with a spray bottle, but don’t spray the roses.
- Slide a rolled towel or a 4 in (10.2 cm) wide tube inside.
- Shape the body to 13 in (33.0 cm) around and 14.5 in (36.8 cm) tall.
- Straighten the edgings so they sit level and round.
- Pinch the leaf tips into points and fluff the rose petals with your fingers. Don’t press them.
- Let the holder dry completely standing upright, about 24 hours.
- Take out the form and hang the holder by its strap.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Every body round has 52 sts.
- The circumference is 13 in (33.0 cm), and the flat width is 6.5 in (16.5 cm).
- The height is 14.5 in (36.8 cm) after edging.
- Both edgings have 52 rev sc and lie smooth, not wavy.
- The join line runs down the center back.
- The three roses sit in a vertical line on the front at 5.5 in, 8.5 in and 11.5 in (14.0 cm, 21.6 cm and 29.2 cm).
- All 9 leaves are sewn on securely and point outward.
- The strap ends sit at sts 13 and 39 and hold weight without stretching.
- No stitches go through to the back layer.
Troubleshooting
The tube slants or twists. This is normal with joined sc rounds. Block it straight on a form, and keep each round’s join neat.
The bottom opening is too loose and bags fall out. Work the bottom edging with a 4.5 mm hook. Check that bags still pull out easily.
The openings flare. Your rev sc is too loose. Redo it with a hook one size smaller.
A rose looks flat. Roll the first two petals tighter and sew through the base more times.
The leaves curl. Steam them lightly and pin them flat until dry.
The strap stretches. Add a third row of sc, or sew a strip of ribbon along the back of the strap.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap. Lay flat to dry, reshaping the roses as it dries, and don’t tumble dry.
Final Notes
Every measurement in this pattern builds on the one before it. A gauge of 16 sc per 4 in (10.2 cm) makes 52 sts = 13 in (33.0 cm) around. At 18 rounds per 4 in (10.2 cm), 63 rounds = 14 in (35.6 cm). The two edgings add 0.25 in (0.6 cm) each, for a total height of 14.5 in (36.8 cm). The roses (6 and 10 petals, 4 sts per petal) and the 40-st strap are worked at the same gauge, so the finished holder matches the size shown.
Happy crocheting!