This hanging organizer has three oval baskets stacked down one long, tapered lattice panel, with a wooden ring at the top. Each basket has a solid oval base, a short band of single crochet, an open diamond lattice, and a rim of six rounded scallops. Hang it on a door hook and it holds three standard toilet rolls. It also works for hand towels, yarn cakes, or small toys.
The sample uses one soft blush pink in bulky cotton. Because there is only one color, the lattice, the fanned scallops, and the raised rim edging do all the decorative work. The style is light and airy, a little vintage, and sturdy enough for daily use.
All instructions use US crochet terms. The bordered panel measures 9.5 in (24.1 cm) wide at the bottom and 27.6 in (70.1 cm) tall. Each basket is 8 in (20.3 cm) long, 5 in (12.7 cm) deep, and 5.5 in (14.0 cm) tall at the scallop peaks. With the strap and ring, the whole piece hangs about 31.5 in (80.0 cm) long.
Construction is simple. You crochet three identical baskets in joined rounds, starting from an oval base. The panel is worked flat from the bottom up in a net stitch that narrows as you go. After that you add a two-round border, crochet a short strap around the ring, and sew the baskets to the front of the panel.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 9.5 in (24.1 cm) wide at the bottom × 27.6 in (70.1 cm) tall (panel), about 31.5 in (80.0 cm) including the ring
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Bulky (#5) cotton
- Hook: 6 mm (US J-10)
- Number of pieces: 4 (3 baskets + 1 panel); the strap is worked onto the panel
- Layout: one vertical column of 3 baskets on 1 panel
- Piece size: basket 8 in (20.3 cm) × 5 in (12.7 cm) × 5.5 in (14.0 cm) tall
- Panel size before border: 8.3 in (21.1 cm) wide at the bottom, 2 in (5.1 cm) wide at the top, 27.0 in (68.6 cm) tall
- Border depth: 0.6 in (1.5 cm), 2 rounds
Materials
Pick a smooth, firm bulky cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds its shape when the baskets are loaded. Soft acrylic will stretch and the baskets will sag.
- Blush Pink: 300 g / 330 m (361 yd)
- 6 mm (US J-10) crochet hook
- Wooden ring, 2.75 in (7.0 cm) outer diameter
- Yarn needle
- 6 locking stitch markers
- Rust-proof pins and a blocking mat
- Measuring tape
These quantities include a margin of roughly 25% to cover gauge differences and the gauge swatch.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet
- BLO – back loop only
- sk – skip
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- inc – 2 sc in the same st
- ch-5 loop – the space under a chain of 5
Special stitch – net loop: ch 5, then sc in the next loop (or the stitch you are told to use). The loops stack into diamonds, and each sc forms the small knot where two diamonds meet.
Gauge and Checkpoints
- Single crochet: 12 sts and 13 rnds/rows = 4 in (10.2 cm)
- Net mesh: 4 loops = 4 in (10.2 cm) wide; 6 mesh rows = 5 in (12.7 cm) tall
Make one complete basket before anything else. It is the best gauge test you can do.
Checkpoints:
– After Rnd 8 the base lies flat and measures 8 in × 5 in (20.3 cm × 12.7 cm).
– After Rnd 13 the solid wall is 1.5 in (3.8 cm) tall.
– After Rnd 16 the basket is 4 in (10.2 cm) tall.
– The finished basket is 5.5 in (14.0 cm) at the peaks and 4.5 in (11.4 cm) at the valleys.
If your base is too big, go down 0.5 mm. If it is too small or feels stiff, go up 0.5 mm. If the base cups, you are working too tightly. If it ruffles, you are working too loosely. Get the base right, because the wall stitch count depends on it.
Basket (Make 3)
Oval Base
Ch 12.
Rnd 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in the next 9 ch, 3 sc in the last ch. Rotate and work along the other side of the chain: sc in the next 9 ch, 2 sc in the last ch (the same ch as the first sc). Join with a sl st to the first sc. (24 sts: two straight sides of 9 sts and two ends of 3 sts)
Every base round below starts with ch 1 (does not count as a st) and ends with a sl st to the first sc. In each round, k = round number minus 2.
Rnds 2–8: [Sc in next k sts, inc] once, sc in next 9, [sc in next k sts, inc] 3 times, sc in next 9, [sc in next k sts, inc] twice.
- Rnd 2 (k = 0): 30 sts
- Rnd 3 (k = 1): 36 sts
- Rnd 4 (k = 2): 42 sts
- Rnd 5 (k = 3): 48 sts
- Rnd 6 (k = 4): 54 sts
- Rnd 7 (k = 5): 60 sts
- Rnd 8 (k = 6): 66 sts
The two straight sides stay at 9 sts throughout. Each curved end grows from 3 sts to 24 sts. (9 + 9 + 24 + 24 = 66)
Tip: Mark the first st of each straight side with a locking marker and move the markers up every round. They make the increase sections easy to see.
Walls
Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around, join. (66) The unworked front loops make a ridge where the base turns up into the wall.
Rnds 10–13: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (66)
Lattice
Rnd 14: Ch 1, sc in the first st, ch 5, sk 2, sc in next st 21 times, ch 5, sk 2, sl st to the first sc. (22 ch-5 loops)
Rnds 15–16: Sl st in each of the next 3 ch, ch 1, sc in the same loop, ch 5, sc in next loop 21 times, ch 5, sl st to the first sc. (22 loops)
Rnd 17 (conversion): Sl st in the next ch, ch 1, 3 sc in each ch-5 loop around, join. (22 loops × 3 sc = 66)
Scalloped Rim
Flatten the basket and find the center stitch of the front straight side. Count 5 sts to the right and put a marker there. Sl st across to the marked st. That st is st 1 of the first repeat, and it centers one scallop on the front.
Rnd 18: Sl st in next st, sc in next, hdc in next, dc in next, 2 dc in next, 3 tr in next, 2 dc in next, dc in next, hdc in next, sc in next, sl st in next 6 times, join. (Each repeat uses 11 sts and makes 15, so 6 × 15 = 90 sts.)
You now have one scallop on the front, one on the back, and two on each curved end. The end scallops flare outward.
Rnd 19 (trim): Ch 1, sc in each st, working 3 sc in the center tr of each scallop, join. (90 sts worked one per st + 12 added = 102)
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Back Panel
Each row ends with a sc unless stated otherwise.
Row 1: Ch 26, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (25 sc)
Row 2 (set-up): Ch 1, turn, sc in the first sc, ch 5, sk 2, sc in next 8 times. (8 loops)
Keep row: Ch 5, turn, sc in the first ch-5 loop, ch 5, sc in next loop to the end. (Loop count stays the same: the turning ch-5 + the loops between sc.)
Decrease row: Turn, sl st in each of the first 3 ch of the first loop, ch 1, sc in the same loop, ch 5, sc in next loop to the end. (1 loop fewer)
- Rows 3–6: keep (8 loops)
- Row 7: decrease (7 loops)
- Rows 8–11: keep (7 loops)
- Row 12: decrease (6 loops)
- Rows 13–16: keep (6 loops)
- Row 17: decrease (5 loops)
- Rows 18–21: keep (5 loops)
- Row 22: decrease (4 loops)
- Rows 23–26: keep (4 loops)
- Row 27: decrease (3 loops)
- Rows 28–31: keep (3 loops)
- Row 32: decrease (2 loops)
- Row 33: keep (2 loops)
There are 32 mesh rows (Rows 2–33). Checkpoint: the panel should measure 27.0 in (68.6 cm) tall, 8.3 in (21.1 cm) wide at the bottom, and 2 in (5.1 cm) wide at the top. Do not fasten off. Go straight into the border.
Tip: Put a marker on Rows 2, 11, and 20 as you work them. These are where the baskets go, and counting mesh rows later is harder.
Make All Pieces
- Baskets: 3 in Blush Pink, about 55 g each
- Panel with border and strap: 1 in Blush Pink, about 65 g
- Total: about 230 g, which leaves room inside the 300 g supply
Layout (front view, top to bottom):
[ ring ]
[ strap ]
/ panel \
[ Basket 3 ] ridge on Row 20
[ Basket 2 ] ridge on Row 11
[ Basket 1 ] ridge on Row 2
Joining
Work the border and strap first (see below). Once a basket is sewn on, it hangs over the panel edges and gets in the way of the border.
Method: whipstitch with matching yarn and a yarn needle.
Stitch-to-stitch logic: Place each basket so its back straight side is centered on the panel. Each basket attaches in three places:
1. Base ridge: Sew 15 front loops from Rnd 8 (the 9 back straight sts plus 3 on each side) to the sc knots and chains of the panel row you marked. That is a 5 in (12.7 cm) seam.
2. Mid-wall: Sew the 9 back straight sts of Rnd 13 to the mesh directly above.
3. Rim: Tack down the peak of the back scallop and the two valleys on either side of it.
Put Basket 1 on Row 2, Basket 2 on Row 11, and Basket 3 on Row 20. Rows 2, 11, and 20 are 9 mesh rows apart, so the ridges are spaced 7.5 in (19.1 cm) apart. At those rows the bordered panel is 9.5 in (24.1 cm), 8.2 in (20.8 cm), and 6.2 in (15.7 cm) wide.
Tension: Pull each stitch just until the pieces touch. If you pull too hard, the mesh puckers and the basket tilts forward. Pin all three baskets in place and hang the panel to check that they are level before you sew.
Size checkpoint: When the panel hangs, the top of Basket 3 should sit about 5.5 in (14.0 cm) below the top edge of the panel.
Border
Border gauge: 3 sc = 1 in (2.5 cm) along every edge.
Rnd 1: Ch 1. Do not turn. Work down the first long side, across the bottom, up the second long side, then across the top. Join to the first sc.
– Each side: 5 sc for every 2 mesh rows (16 pairs × 5 = 80), plus 1 sc in the end of Row 1. That gives 81 sc per side.
– Bottom: Working into the foundation ch, 3 sc in the first ch, sc in the next 23, 3 sc in the last ch. (29)
– Top: 3 sc in each of the 2 loops. (6)
– Total: 81 + 29 + 81 + 6 = 197
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each st, working 3 sc in the center st of each bottom corner, join. Sides 81, bottom 33, top 6. (197 + 4 = 201)
Why the math works: One mesh row is 0.83 in tall, so 2 rows are 1.67 in, and 5 sc at 3 sc per in also cover 1.67 in. The 81 sc on each side measure 27.0 in (68.6 cm), which matches the panel height. The bottom’s 25 ch match the 25 sc of Row 1. The extra corner sts make the turn so the bottom edge doesn’t pull in.
Strap: Turn and work across the 6 top sts only. Rows 1–8: ch 1, turn, sc in each st. (6) The strap is 2.5 in (6.4 cm) long. Fold it over the ring to the back and whipstitch the last row to the base of the strap, so the folded loop is about 1.25 in (3.2 cm).
Final Blocking
- Wet the whole piece in cool water and press the water out with a towel. Do not wring it.
- Lay the panel flat. Pin it to 9.5 in (24.1 cm) wide at the bottom and 27.6 in (70.1 cm) tall.
- Open each diamond so it looks even, and pin the long sides straight.
- Stuff each basket with a towel or a toilet roll so it holds its oval shape.
- Pin each scallop peak upward to 5.5 in (14.0 cm).
- Let everything dry completely before you hang it.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Every base lies flat and measures 8 in × 5 in (20.3 cm × 12.7 cm).
- Every basket has 6 scallops, with one centered on the front.
- The rim counts are 90 and 102.
- The panel has 32 mesh rows and tapers evenly from 8 to 2 loops.
- The border sides are 81 sc each and match in length.
- The ridges sit on Rows 2, 11, and 20, centered and level.
- The strap is secure and the ring is centered.
- All ends are woven in at least 2 in (5.1 cm).
Troubleshooting
- Base cups: You are working too tightly. Go up a hook size or loosen your stitches.
- Base ruffles: You are working too loosely, or you added extra increases. Recount against the Rnd 8 total of 66.
- Lattice slants: You skipped a loop or worked into a sc. Count to 22 loops in every round.
- Front scallop is off center: Re-place the marker and work Rnd 18 again.
- Panel edges wave: You worked too many border sc. Stick to 5 per 2 rows.
- Baskets tip forward: Add more tacks at the mid-wall and rim.
Care
Hand wash or machine wash on a gentle cycle in cool water, then lay flat to dry and reshape the baskets while damp. Do not tumble dry.
Final Notes
The measurements build on each other. A gauge of 12 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm) gives an 8 in × 5 in (20.3 cm × 12.7 cm) base of 66 sts. Those 66 sts give 22 lattice loops and 6 scallops of 11 sts. The 25-st panel gives 8 loops, which taper to 2 over 32 mesh rows. The border of 81 sc per side keeps the panel at 27.0 in (68.6 cm), and baskets spaced 7.5 in (19.1 cm) apart finish the organizer. Check each link as you go and the finished piece will hang straight.
Happy crocheting!