The Rosewood Bloom curtain is made of ten narrow filet crochet strips that hang side by side from a wooden rod. Each strip is an airy grid of open squares with a column of solid motifs down the center: a large four-petal flower, then a small diamond, repeated from bottom to top.
The strips alternate between dusty rose and cream. Light passes through the open mesh, and the solid blocks make the flowers easy to see, even from across the room. The style is relaxed and farmhouse-simple. It works well in a doorway, on a patio door, or at a tall window.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. Each finished strip measures 6.4 in (16.3 cm) wide and 72.8 in (184.9 cm) long. When the tab is folded over the rod, it adds about 2.5 in (6.4 cm) above the body.
You work each strip flat in rows from the bottom up, following a written filet chart that is 15 meshes wide. Then you add a solid tab at the top center, work one round of single crochet around the whole outline, and fold the tab to the back and sew it down. The strips are not joined to each other; each one hangs on its own.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished strip size: 6.4 in (16.3 cm) wide x 72.8 in (184.9 cm) long, plus tab
- Skill level: Intermediate (filet crochet, reading a row-by-row chart)
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: DK (#3) cotton
- Hook: 3.5 mm (E-4)
- Number of pieces: 10 separate strips (5 dusty rose, 5 cream)
- Layout: 10 strips in a single row on the rod, alternating colors, about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) apart
- Strip size before border: 6 in (15.2 cm) x 72.4 in (183.9 cm)
- Border depth: 1 round of sc, about 0.2 in (0.5 cm) on each edge
- Tab: about 2.1 in (5.3 cm) wide before border, 2.5 in (6.4 cm) wide after border
- Total rod span: about 68.5 in (174.0 cm)
Materials
Choose a smooth mercerized or combed cotton in DK weight. Cotton gives crisp mesh edges, holds its shape while hanging, and shows the solid blocks clearly. Avoid fuzzy or very splitty yarns, because they blur the filet squares.
- Dusty rose: 500 g, about 1,200 m (for 5 strips)
- Cream: 500 g, about 1,200 m (for 5 strips)
One strip uses about 85 g (about 200 m). The quantities above include a margin for your test strip, small differences in tension, and weaving in ends. Buy each color from a single dye lot so the five strips of that color match.
Tools:
- 3.5 mm (E-4) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers
- Measuring tape
- Rust-proof pins and a long blocking surface (foam mats, or a bed covered with towels)
- Spray bottle
- Wooden curtain rod up to 1.25 in (3.2 cm) in diameter
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sl st – slip stitch
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sp – space
- RS / WS – right side / wrong side
Special stitches (filet meshes):
- Open mesh (O): Ch 2, skip 2 sts (or the ch-2 sp below), dc in next dc.
- Block (B): Over an open mesh, work 2 dc in the ch-2 sp, then dc in next dc. Over a block, dc in each of next 3 dc.
- Beginning open mesh: Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), skip first ch-2 sp or 2 sts, dc in next dc.
Every row has 16 dc “posts” and 15 meshes, for a total of 46 sts. The 2 chains of each open mesh count as 2 sts. Work the last dc of each row into the 3rd ch of the turning chain.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 5 meshes and 5 rows = 2 in (5.1 cm) square in filet mesh. One mesh is 0.4 in (1.0 cm) wide and tall. Solid dc rows are the same height as mesh rows.
Make one test strip before you start the other nine. Work through Row 26 (the first full motif repeat), then measure and check:
- After Row 4: width is 6 in (15.2 cm) and height is 1.6 in (4.1 cm).
- One flower motif: 11 meshes x 11 rows = 4.4 in (11.2 cm) square.
- One diamond: 5 meshes x 5 rows = 2 in (5.1 cm).
- After Row 26: height is 10.4 in (26.4 cm).
- After Row 92: height is 36.8 in (93.5 cm).
- After Row 181: height is 72.4 in (183.9 cm).
If your strip is too wide, go down one hook size. If it is too narrow, go up one hook size. If the width is right but the rows are too short, make your dc a little taller by pulling up the first loop slightly. Hang the test section for a few minutes before measuring, because cotton mesh stretches a little lengthwise.
Strip Pattern
Make 5 strips in dusty rose and 5 in cream. All strips use the same instructions.
Each strip is one color from start to finish, so there are no color changes inside a strip. When you join a new ball, do it at the start of a row, and weave the tails up and down the dc posts at the edge, never across an open mesh.
Bottom Band
Foundation: Ch 48.
Row 1 (solid): Dc in 4th ch from hook (the skipped 3 ch count as the first dc) and in each ch across, turn. (46 sts)
Row 2 (open): Beginning open mesh, ch 2, skip 2 dc, dc in next dc; repeat from * across, working the last dc in the top of the turning ch, turn. (15 open meshes; 46 sts)
Rows 3–4: Beginning open mesh, ch 2, dc in next dc; repeat from * across, turn. (15 open meshes; 46 sts)
Motif Repeat (22 Rows)
Each line below lists the meshes in order across the row. Every row totals 15 meshes and 46 sts. The motifs are symmetrical, so you read each row the same way on RS and WS rows.
Flower (11 rows):
- F1: 7 O, 1 B, 7 O
- F2: 6 O, 3 B, 6 O
- F3: 6 O, 3 B, 6 O
- F4: 3 O, 2 B, 2 O, 1 B, 2 O, 2 B, 3 O
- F5: 2 O, 4 B, 1 O, 1 B, 1 O, 4 B, 2 O
- F6: 2 O, 11 B, 2 O
- F7: 2 O, 4 B, 1 O, 1 B, 1 O, 4 B, 2 O
- F8: 3 O, 2 B, 2 O, 1 B, 2 O, 2 B, 3 O
- F9: 6 O, 3 B, 6 O
- F10: 6 O, 3 B, 6 O
- F11: 7 O, 1 B, 7 O
Rows F1–F3 build the bottom petal and Rows F9–F11 build the top petal. Rows F4–F8 build the two side petals around the solid center row, F6. The single center block in F4, F5, F7, and F8 links all four petals into one flower.
Spacer (3 rows): 15 O in each row.
Diamond (5 rows):
- D1: 7 O, 1 B, 7 O
- D2: 6 O, 3 B, 6 O
- D3: 5 O, 5 B, 5 O
- D4: 6 O, 3 B, 6 O
- D5: 7 O, 1 B, 7 O
Spacer (3 rows): 15 O in each row.
Rows 5–180: Work the 22-row motif repeat 8 times in total. Repeat 1 is Rows 5–26, repeat 2 is Rows 27–48, and so on. Repeat 8 is Rows 159–180.
Place a marker at the end of each finished repeat. Eight markers confirm 8 flowers and 8 diamonds.
Top Band
Row 181 (solid): Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in ch-2 sp, dc in next dc; repeat from * across, turn. (46 sts)
Fasten off. The strip now measures 6 in (15.2 cm) x 72.4 in (183.9 cm). The 3 open rows at the top (Rows 178–180) mirror the 3 open rows at the bottom (Rows 2–4), so the motif column sits evenly on the strip.
Hanging Tab
Tab Row 1: With RS facing, skip the first 15 sts of Row 181, join yarn in the next st, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 15 sts, turn. (16 dc; 15 sts remain unworked on the far side)
Tab Rows 2–12: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each st across, turn. (16 dc)
Fasten off. The tab is about 2.1 in (5.3 cm) wide and 4.8 in (12.2 cm) long. It is centered, with 15 sts on each side forming the shoulders.
Make All Pieces
- Dusty rose: 5 strips
- Cream: 5 strips
Layout on the rod, from left to right (R = rose, C = cream):
| R | C | R | C | R | C | R | C | R | C |
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
Each strip is 6.4 in (16.3 cm) wide after the border. Ten strips take up 64 in of rod. Add nine gaps of about 0.5 in (1.3 cm), or 4.5 in, and the curtain spans 64 in + 4.5 in = 68.5 in (174.0 cm).
Joining
The strips are not sewn to each other. Each one hangs on its own, which lets light and air move between the strips and makes them easy to take down for washing.
The only join is the tab loop. Sew it after the border and after blocking:
- Lay the strip WS up and fold the tab back toward the body.
- Line up the 16 border sc across the tab top with the 16 tab-base stitches of Row 181 on the WS.
- Whipstitch stitch-to-stitch, joining 1 tab sc to 1 Row 181 st, for 16 stitches in total.
Keep the whipstitch snug but not tight, because tight stitches will pucker the top band. Before you close the loop, slide the tab over your rod. The 4.8 in (12.2 cm) tab plus its border makes a loop that fits a rod up to 1.25 in (3.2 cm) in diameter, and the folded loop stands about 2.5 in (6.4 cm) above the body.
Thread the strips onto the rod in layout order, then slide them along until the gaps are even.
Size check: Each strip should hang 72.8 in (184.9 cm) from the shoulder to the bottom edge.
Border
Border gauge: Work 2 sc per dc row-end along the long sides and 1 sc per st along the top and bottom. One row is 0.4 in (1.0 cm) tall, so the sides get 5 sc per inch. This matches the row height and keeps the edges flat.
Border Round: With RS facing, join yarn at the bottom right corner (the start of the foundation chain).
- Bottom: Ch 1, sc in the base of each of the 46 foundation sts. (46 sc) Ch 1 for corner.
- First long side: Work 2 sc around each row-end post, Rows 1–181. (362 sc) Ch 1 for corner.
- Top: Sc in each of 15 shoulder sts. Work 2 sc in each of 12 tab row-ends going up the tab (24 sc), ch 1, sc in each of 16 tab sts (16 sc), ch 1, then 2 sc in each of 12 tab row-ends going down (24 sc). Sc in each of 15 shoulder sts. (94 sc) Ch 1 for corner.
- Second long side: Work 2 sc around each row-end post, Rows 181–1. (362 sc) Ch 1 for corner.
Sl st to the first sc and fasten off. (864 sc and 6 ch-1 corner spaces)
Why the math works: The bottom matches the 46 sts of Row 1. Each long side is 181 rows x 2 sc = 362 sc. The top is 15 + 24 + 16 + 24 + 15 = 94 sc, covering both shoulders (30 sts), the tab top (16 sts), and the 12 tab rows on each side. The ch-1 corners are separate and are not counted in any side total. The two inner corners where the tab meets the shoulders get no extra stitches, which gives the soft, slightly rounded shoulder at the top of each strip.
Final Blocking
- Soak each strip in cool water for 10 minutes.
- Gently press out the water in a towel. Do not wring.
- Lay the strip flat on your blocking surface. For long strips, block in two halves.
- Pin the width to 6.4 in (16.3 cm), placing pins every 4 in (10.2 cm) along both edges.
- Pin the length to 72.8 in (184.9 cm).
- Square up each flower so all four petals look even. Lay a tape measure down the motif column to keep it straight.
- Let the strip dry completely, then fold and sew the tab.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- 181 rows in the body and 12 rows in the tab
- 8 flowers and 8 diamonds per strip, all centered
- 15 meshes and 46 sts in every body row
- Each strip is 6.4 in (16.3 cm) wide and 72.8 in (184.9 cm) long after the border
- All ten strips are within 0.5 in (1.3 cm) of the same length
- The tab is centered, with 15 sts on each shoulder
- The border lies flat, without ruffling or pulling
- Ends are woven in along the dc posts and can’t be seen from either side
Troubleshooting
- The squares look like tall rectangles: Your ch-2 is too tight or your dc is too tall. Loosen the chains slightly.
- The strip gets narrower as you go: You are missing the last dc into the turning chain. Count the 16 posts every few rows.
- A flower looks lopsided: Check the mesh counts in F4, F5, F7, and F8. Each row must total 15.
- The long edges ruffle: Work 2 sc around each row-end, not 3, and keep your border tension even.
- The strips hang at different lengths: Compare row counts, then re-block the longer strips to match.
- The tab twists on the rod: Re-sew the tab so each tab stitch lines up with its own Row 181 stitch.
- The motif column drifts off center: Recount the open meshes on both sides of the motif. The two side counts in each row must match.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with a mild detergent and dry flat. If the strips stretch after hanging for a long time, block them again.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is simple: 1 mesh = 0.4 in (1.0 cm), 15 meshes = 6 in (15.2 cm), and 181 rows = 72.4 in (183.9 cm). One round of sc adds 0.2 in (0.5 cm) on each edge, so each finished strip is 6.4 in (16.3 cm) x 72.8 in (184.9 cm). Ten strips with small gaps span 68.5 in (174.0 cm). Check your gauge on the first strip, and the other nine will follow.
Happy crocheting!