The Sage Lattice Leaf Panel is a single textured rectangle covered in plump green leaves. Each leaf is framed by a raised cream diamond. The leaves stand up from the fabric, and the cream lines look like a fine braided cord running diagonally across the surface. It’s a calm, botanical piece that works on a table, a shelf, or a wall hook.
The panel uses two colors: soft sage green for the leafy body and warm cream for the lattice and the border. Each short end rises into three gentle points that follow the angles of the diamonds. A corded crab-stitch edge finishes the long sides.
This pattern is written in US crochet terms. The finished panel measures about 7.5 in (19.1 cm) wide and 14.7 in (37.3 cm) long, tip to tip.
The construction is easy to follow. You work the green body flat in single crochet rows and add leaf bobbles on wrong-side rows so they pop out on the right side. Next you add the cream lattice with surface slip stitch. A three-round border shapes the points and finishes the panel.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 7.5 in (19.1 cm) wide x 14.7 in (37.3 cm) long at the points; 13.7 in (34.8 cm) long at the valleys
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4)
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 1 (single panel, no joining)
- Layout: 3 leaves across in odd tiers, 2 leaves across in even tiers, 13 tiers tall (33 leaves total)
- Piece size before border: 6.25 in (15.9 cm) x 12.7 in (32.3 cm)
- Border depth: 5/8 in (1.6 cm) on the long sides; on the short ends, 1 in (2.5 cm) at the points and 0.5 in (1.3 cm) at the valleys
Materials
Choose a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton keeps the leaves crisp and makes the surface slip stitch stand out clearly. Avoid fuzzy or loosely plied yarns, which blur the lattice.
- Sage green (Color A): 50 g, about 90 m (98 yd)
- Cream (Color B): 25 g, about 45 m (49 yd)
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- 4 locking stitch markers
- Tape measure
- Blocking mat, rust-proof pins, and a spray bottle
The quantities include a margin of about 20 percent to cover gauge differences and weaving in ends.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- hdc: half double crochet
- dc: double crochet
- tr: treble crochet
- rev sc: reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
- st(s): stitch(es)
- sp: space
- RS / WS: right side / wrong side
Special stitch – Leaf Bobble (LB): *Yarn over, insert hook in the indicated st, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops; repeat from * 4 more times in the same st (6 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw through all 6 loops. Because you work it on WS rows, the bobble pushes out to the RS. One LB counts as 1 st.
Surface slip stitch: Hold the cream yarn behind the work. Insert the hook from the RS through the fabric at the starting point and pull up a loop. Insert the hook at the next point and pull up a loop through the fabric and through the loop on the hook. Repeat from . Keep the loops relaxed so the fabric doesn’t pucker.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc and 18 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc with a 5.0 mm hook.
This is a single piece, so test your gauge on a small swatch first. Ch 17, then work 16 sc for 18 rows, adding one Leaf Bobble on row 8 so you can check its size. The swatch should measure 4 in (10.2 cm) square. The bobble should look full and round, about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) wide.
Checkpoints for the body:
- After Row 3: width 6.25 in (15.9 cm)
- After Row 7 (Tier 1): height about 1.6 in (4.1 cm)
- After Row 31 (Tier 7): height about 6.9 in (17.5 cm)
- After Row 57: 6.25 in (15.9 cm) x 12.7 in (32.3 cm)
If your piece is too big, go down one hook size. If it’s too small, go up one hook size. Bobble rows can pull the row gauge in slightly, so measure on a flat surface without stretching.
Body (Color A)
With sage green, ch 26.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (25 sts)
Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (25 sts)
Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (25 sts)
The leaves are worked in tiers of 4 rows. Odd tiers (A) have 3 leaves. Even tiers (B) have 2 leaves, shifted 4 sts over to make the half-drop layout.
Tier A (3 leaves):
- Row 1 of tier (WS): Ch 1, sc 4, LB, *sc 7, LB; repeat from * once more, sc 4, turn. (25 sts: 22 sc + 3 LB)
- Row 2 of tier (RS): Ch 1, sc in each st across, working into the top of each LB, turn. (25 sts)
- Row 3 of tier (WS): Repeat Row 1 of tier. Each new LB sits directly above the one below it, so together they make one long leaf. (25 sts)
- Row 4 of tier (RS): Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (25 sts)
The Tier A leaves sit on stitches 5, 13, and 21.
Tier B (2 leaves):
- Row 1 of tier (WS): Ch 1, sc 8, LB, sc 7, LB, sc 8, turn. (25 sts: 23 sc + 2 LB)
- Row 2 of tier (RS): Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (25 sts)
- Row 3 of tier (WS): Repeat Row 1 of tier. (25 sts)
- Row 4 of tier (RS): Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (25 sts)
The Tier B leaves sit on stitches 9 and 17.
Rows 4–55: Starting with Tier A, alternate Tier A and Tier B for 13 tiers in total, ending with Tier A. That makes 7 A tiers and 6 B tiers. (25 sts in every row; 33 leaves)
Row 56 (WS): Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (25 sts)
Row 57 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each st across. (25 sts) Fasten off.
The body now has 3 plain rows below the first leaves (Rows 1–3) and 3 plain rows above the last leaves (Rows 55–57), so the top and bottom match.
Cream Lattice (Color B)
The lattice is a grid of diagonal lines in surface slip stitch. With every slip stitch, a line moves up 1 row and over 1 st. Insert the hook in the gaps between stitches, one row at a time.
Think of the body as a grid of columns 1–25 and rows 1–57. The lines cross at these points:
- On the center row of each A tier (Rows 5, 13, 21, 29, 37, 45, 53): columns 1, 9, 17, 25
- On the center row of each B tier (Rows 9, 17, 25, 33, 41, 49): columns 5, 13, 21
This puts every leaf in the middle of its own diamond, with crossing points 4 sts to its left and right and 4 rows above and below.
Up-right lines (9 lines): With RS facing, work each line from its starting point until it leaves the panel at the right edge or the top edge.
- Start on Row 1 at columns 5, 13, and 21 (21, 13, and 5 sl sts)
- Start at the left edge (column 1) on Rows 5, 13, 21, 29, 37, 45, and 53 (25, 25, 25, 25, 21, 13, and 5 sl sts)
These lines total 178 sl sts.
Up-left lines (9 lines): These mirror the up-right lines. Start on Row 1 at columns 21, 13, and 5, and at the right edge (column 25) on the same 7 rows. Move up 1 row and 1 st to the left each time. These lines total another 178 sl sts.
At each crossing, insert the hook in the same grid point as the existing line so the crossing locks neatly. Fasten off after each line, leaving 4 in (10.2 cm) tails.
On Row 1, the lines start in pairs at columns 5, 13, and 21, making three V points along the bottom edge. The side-edge lines from Rows 37, 45, and 53 reach the top edge at those same columns and make three matching peaks. The border points follow these peaks.
Border (Color B)
The border gauge is the same as the body: 4 sc per inch (2.54 cm). On the long sides you work into row ends. On the short ends you work into stitches and foundation chain loops.
Round 1: With RS facing, join cream in the first st of Row 57 (top corner). Work 3 sc in the corner st, sc in each of the next 23 sts, then 3 sc in the last st (corner). Down the long side, work 51 sc across the 57 row ends: 1 sc in each row end, skipping the row ends of Rows 9, 18, 27, 36, 45, and 54. Work 3 sc in the first foundation ch (corner), sc in each of the next 23 ch loops, then 3 sc in the last ch (corner). Work 51 sc up the second long side the same way. Sl st to the first sc.
The center sc of each 3-sc group is the corner st. Counts between corner sts:
- Each short end: 1 + 23 + 1 = 25 sts
- Each long side: 1 + 51 + 1 = 53 sts
- Total: (2 x 25) + (2 x 53) + 4 corner sts = 160 sts
Round 2: Ch 1. Work 3 sc in each corner st and sc in each st along the long sides (53 sts per side). Work across the 25 sts of each short end as follows:
Sl st, sc, hdc, dc, (tr, ch 2, tr) in next st, dc, hdc, sc, *sl st, sc, hdc, dc, (tr, ch 2, tr) in next st, dc, hdc, sc; repeat from * once more, sl st.
The peaks land on stitches 5, 13, and 21, lined up with the lattice points. Each short end now has 28 sts and 3 ch-2 sps: 25 sts worked one per existing stitch, plus 3 extra tr at the peaks. Sl st to the first sc.
Round 2 total: (2 x 53) + (2 x 28) + (4 x 3 corner sc) = 174 sts and 6 ch-2 sps.
Round 3: Ch 1. Working from left to right, rev sc in each st around and 2 rev sc in each ch-2 sp. Sl st to the first rev sc and fasten off.
Round 3 total: 174 + (6 x 2) = 186 rev sc.
Why the math works: At 4 sc per inch, the 51 row-end sc measure 12.75 in (32.4 cm). That matches the 12.7 in (32.3 cm) body, so the long sides lie flat. The short ends keep the body’s 25 sts, so the width doesn’t flare. The points come from the stitch heights, which rise from sl st up to tr. The single extra tr at each peak only sharpens the tip without widening the edge.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends. Run cream tails behind the cream lines and green tails through green stitches.
- Mist the panel lightly with water until it’s damp but not soaked.
- Lay it RS up on the blocking mat.
- Pin the long sides straight, 7.5 in (19.1 cm) apart.
- Pin the tip of each point so the panel measures 14.7 in (37.3 cm) from tip to tip.
- Pin the valleys gently so they sit 13.7 in (34.8 cm) apart.
- Lift the leaves with your fingertips. Don’t press them flat.
- Let the panel dry completely before you unpin it.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Before the border, the body measures 6.25 in (15.9 cm) x 12.7 in (32.3 cm).
- There are 33 leaves in total: 7 tiers of 3 and 6 tiers of 2.
- Every leaf is two bobbles tall and sits centered in a diamond.
- The lattice lines have even tension and don’t pucker the fabric.
- Each short end has 3 points lined up with the lattice points.
- Round 3 has 186 rev sc.
- The finished panel lies flat at 7.5 in (19.1 cm) x 14.7 in (37.3 cm).
Troubleshooting
Bobbles are flat or on the wrong side. Work them only on WS rows, and push each one to the RS before you start the next st.
The lattice puckers the fabric. Your slip stitches are too tight. Pull each loop up to the height of a sc, or use a hook one size larger for the lattice only.
The diamonds look crooked. Recount your columns. Each line must move exactly 1 row up and 1 st over.
The long sides ripple. There are too many row-end stitches. Skip one more row end on each side.
The long sides cup inward. There are too few row-end stitches. Skip one fewer row end on each side.
The points look soft. Check that each peak is (tr, ch 2, tr) worked in one st, and pin the tips firmly when blocking.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, then roll the panel in a towel to press out the water. Reshape it and dry it flat, keeping the leaves lifted.
Final Notes
Here is how the measurements build up. A gauge of 16 sc and 18 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) gives a 25-st x 57-row body measuring 6.25 in (15.9 cm) x 12.7 in (32.3 cm). The lattice doesn’t change the size. The border adds 5/8 in (1.6 cm) to each long side, for a width of 7.5 in (19.1 cm). It adds 1 in (2.5 cm) at each set of points, for a length of 14.7 in (37.3 cm).
Check your gauge, count each tier, and keep the lattice relaxed. Your finished panel will have crisp leaves and clean diamonds.
Happy crocheting!