The Starflower Cascade is a hanging bathroom organizer. Five small crochet baskets step down the wall in a gentle zigzag, and each one holds a standard toilet roll. Every basket has a solid base, open fan-stitch walls, and a scalloped rim with a corded edge.
The colors are deep navy cotton for the baskets and straps, plus a cream five-petal flower on the front of each basket. The style is coastal and tidy, and it looks good next to white towels with navy stripes.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. Each basket is about 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across at the rim and 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall. The assembled holder is about 7.75 in (19.7 cm) wide and 18.5 in (47.0 cm) tall from the top rim to the bottom base. With the hanging tab it is about 20 in (50.8 cm) tall.
You crochet each basket from the bottom up in joined rounds and sew a flower to the front. Short straps sewn to the backs link the baskets into an offset column. To finish, you add a scalloped rim to each basket and block the holder.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 7.75 in (19.7 cm) wide x 18.5 in (47.0 cm) tall; about 20 in (50.8 cm) with the hanging tab
- Skill level: Easy intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted weight (#4) cotton
- Hook: 4.5 mm (US 7)
- Number of pieces: 15 (5 baskets, 5 flowers, 4 straps, 1 hanging tab)
- Layout: 1 vertical column of 5 baskets, alternating left and right with a 2.25 in (5.7 cm) sideways offset
- Piece size: Base 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across; finished basket 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across x 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall
- Size before border: 5.0 in (12.7 cm) across x 2.75 in (7.0 cm) tall after Round 17
- Border depth: The scalloped rim adds 0.75 in (1.9 cm) of height
Materials
Choose a smooth, firm worsted weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton keeps its shape, carries the weight of a roll without stretching, and handles bathroom humidity well. Soft acrylic may let the walls sag.
- Navy (Color A): 200 g, about 340 m (baskets, straps, hanging tab)
- Cream (Color B): 15 g, about 25 m (flowers)
Tools:
- 4.5 mm (US 7) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch marker
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Rust-proof pins and a blocking mat
- Optional: a wooden slat about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide and 22 in (55.9 cm) long, plus a small nail, for mounting
The quantities include a margin of about 20 percent to cover gauge differences.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- BLO – back loop only
- inc – 2 sc in the same stitch
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rev sc – reverse single crochet
- picot – ch 2, sl st in 2nd ch from hook
Reverse single crochet (rev sc): Work from left to right (if you are right-handed). Insert the hook into the next stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through both loops. This makes a twisted, corded edge.
Shell: A group of dc worked into one stitch. This pattern uses 5-dc, 7-dc, and 9-dc shells. The center of a 7-dc shell is its 4th dc.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc and 17 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc worked in joined rounds.
Make one complete basket first. It is both your gauge test and your fit test with a real toilet roll.
- After Round 5: base is 2.4 in (6.1 cm) across, 30 sts.
- After Round 10: base is 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across, 60 sts, and lies flat.
- After Round 13: wall is 0.75 in (1.9 cm) tall.
- After Round 17: wall is 2.75 in (7.0 cm) tall; basket is 5.0 in (12.7 cm) across.
- After Round 19: basket is 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall and 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across the scallops.
If the base is too big, go down to a 4.0 mm hook. If it is too small for a roll, go up to a 5.0 mm hook. Do not add base rounds, because the 60-stitch count is what makes the shell repeats divide evenly.
Basket (Make 5)
Use Color A and work in joined rounds. Join each round with a sl st in the first st. The ch 1 at the start of a round does not count as a stitch.
Base
Round 1: Magic ring, ch 1, 6 sc in ring, join. (6 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around, join. (12 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in next st, inc in next st; repeat 6 times, join. (18 sts)
Round 4: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st; repeat 6 times, join. (24 sts)
Round 5: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, inc in next st; repeat 6 times, join. (30 sts)
Round 6: Ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, inc in next st; repeat 6 times, join. (36 sts)
Round 7: Ch 1, sc in next 5 sts, inc in next st; repeat 6 times, join. (42 sts)
Round 8: Ch 1, sc in next 6 sts, inc in next st; repeat 6 times, join. (48 sts)
Round 9: Ch 1, sc in next 7 sts, inc in next st; repeat 6 times, join. (54 sts)
Round 10: Ch 1, sc in next 8 sts, inc in next st; repeat 6 times, join. (60 sts)
Tip: on even rounds, put half of the plain sc before the first increase. Shifting the increases this way keeps the base round instead of hexagonal.
Lower Wall
Round 11: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around, join. (60 sts) The unused front loops make a crisp ridge where the wall turns up.
Rounds 12–13: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (60 sts)
This solid band gives the bottom of the basket its dense look and gives the straps a strong place to attach.
Fan Walls
Round 14 (conversion round): Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same st, skip 2 sts, sc in next st, skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, skip 2 sts, sc in next st, skip 2 sts; repeat 8 times, 2 dc in first st (base of ch 3), join to top of ch 3. (60 sts: 10 shells of 5 dc + 10 sc)
The first shell is split in two halves, so the join lands at the center of that shell.
Round 15: Ch 1, sc in same st, skip 2 dc, 7 dc in next sc, skip 2 dc, sc in center dc of next shell, skip 2 dc, 7 dc in next sc, skip 2 dc; repeat 8 times, join to first sc. (80 sts: 10 shells of 7 dc + 10 sc)
Changing from 5-dc to 7-dc shells makes the wall flare slightly.
Round 16: Sl st in next 4 sts (you are now in the center dc of the first shell), ch 1, sc in same st, skip 3 dc, 7 dc in next sc, skip 3 dc, sc in next dc, skip 3 dc, 7 dc in next sc, skip 3 dc; repeat 8 times, join to first sc. (80 sts: 10 shells of 7 dc + 10 sc)
Round 17: Repeat Round 16. (80 sts) Fasten off and weave in the end.
In every round the shells sit on the sc from the round below, so the fans alternate and form the open, arched lace.
Flower (Make 5)
Use Color B.
Round 1: Magic ring, ch 1, 15 sc in ring, join. Pull the ring almost closed and leave a small center hole. (15 sts)
Round 2: Sl st in next st, (hdc, dc, picot, dc, hdc) in next st, sl st in next st; repeat 5 times, join. (5 petals)
Each petal uses 3 sts, and 5 x 3 = 15. The picot makes the pointed tip. Fasten off and leave a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail. The flower is 1.75 in (4.4 cm) across.
Sew a flower to the front center of each basket, over Rounds 15–16. Stitch through the hdc and dc of each petal so the petals lie flat.
Straps and Hanging Tab
Make 4 straps and 1 tab. Use Color A and ch 15.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (14 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across. (14 sts)
Tab only: At the end of Row 2, ch 10 and sl st in the last sc to make a hanging loop.
Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. Each piece is 3.5 in (8.9 cm) long and about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) wide. A strap has three parts: 5 sts (1.25 in / 3.2 cm) for the upper basket, 4 visible sts (1.0 in / 2.5 cm), and 5 sts (1.25 in / 3.2 cm) for the lower basket. 5 + 4 + 5 = 14.
Make All Pieces
- Color A: 5 baskets (through Round 17), 4 straps, 1 hanging tab
- Color B: 5 flowers, sewn to the basket fronts
Layout, front view:
[Tab]
[B1]
[B2]
[B3]
[B4]
[B5]
B1, B3, and B5 sit on the left. B2 and B4 sit 2.25 in (5.7 cm) to the right. Neighboring baskets still overlap sideways by more than 3 in (7.6 cm), and each strap runs straight up and down inside that overlap.
Joining
Lay the baskets face down in layout order and join them from the top down with whipstitch and the strap tails.
- On the back of the upper basket, place a strap vertically about 1 in (2.5 cm) from the back center, toward the next basket. The strap’s top 5 sts cover the wall from Round 11 upward.
- Whipstitch all edges of those 5 sts to the sc band, catching one strand of each basket stitch so the seam stays hidden from the front.
- Leave the next 4 sts free.
- On the lower basket, sew the last 5 sts from the top of Round 17 down over Rounds 16–15, about 1 in (2.5 cm) from its back center, toward the basket above. Do not catch the top loops of Round 17, because the rim goes there.
- Repeat for each pair of baskets.
- Sew the lower 5 sts of the hanging tab to the back center of B1 over Rounds 17–15. The other 9 sts rise 2.25 in (5.7 cm) above Round 17.
Keep your sewing tension snug but not tight. If you pull too hard, the shell walls pucker. Before you go on, check that the column measures 18.5 in (47.0 cm) top to bottom when the rims are added (17.75 in (45.1 cm) before rims) and 7.75 in (19.7 cm) wide.
Border (Scalloped Rim)
Each basket gets its own rim, so the seams add no stitches. Every basket starts the rim with exactly 80 sts.
Border gauge: one finished scallop is 1.75 in (4.4 cm) wide along the outer edge and 0.75 in (1.9 cm) tall.
Round 18: Join Color A with a sl st in the center dc of any shell. Ch 1, sc in same st, skip 3 dc, 9 dc in next sc, skip 3 dc, sc in next dc, skip 3 dc, 9 dc in next sc, skip 3 dc; repeat 8 times, join to first sc. (100 sts: 10 scallops of 9 dc + 10 sc)
Round 19 (trim round): Ch 1, rev sc in each st around, join. (100 sts: 100 worked 1 per existing st + 0 added) Fasten off.
Why the math works: Round 17 has 80 sts, which is 10 repeats of 8 (1 sc + 7 dc). Each repeat becomes 1 sc + 9 dc = 10 sts, and 10 x 10 = 100. Ten scallops at 1.75 in (4.4 cm) each give a 17.5 in (44.5 cm) edge, which is about 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all remaining ends, running them through the solid sc band.
- Spray the holder lightly with water until it is damp, not soaked.
- Put a toilet roll wrapped in a plastic bag into each basket to shape the walls.
- Lay the holder flat on the mat in layout order, with the 2.25 in (5.7 cm) offset.
- Pin each scallop point outward so the rim opens evenly.
- Press each flower flat with your fingers.
- Let it dry completely, then remove the pins and rolls.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each base has 60 sts and lies flat.
- Every basket has 10 fans per round and 10 scallops on the rim.
- Each basket is 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across and 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall.
- The flowers are centered on the front, directly opposite the straps.
- No strap stitches show through the front lace.
- The full holder is 7.75 in (19.7 cm) wide and 18.5 in (47.0 cm) tall.
- The hanging loop is secure.
Troubleshooting
- The base ruffles: Your tension is too loose or there are extra increases. Recount each round.
- The base cups too early: You are missing increases. Check for 60 sts in Round 10.
- The shells don’t line up: You missed a skip. Each round should repeat exactly 10 times.
- The rim flops: Use a firmer cotton or a smaller hook for Rounds 18–19 only.
- A basket tilts forward: Sew the strap higher on the upper basket’s back so the weight sits closer to the wall.
- The roll doesn’t fit: Remake that basket with a 5.0 mm hook.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap and reshape while damp. Dry flat with a roll inside each basket.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is short. Round 10 gives a 4.75 in (12.1 cm) base. Round 17 brings the basket to 5.0 in (12.7 cm) across and 2.75 in (7.0 cm) tall, and the rim finishes it at 5.5 in (14.0 cm) by 3.5 in (8.9 cm). Five baskets joined with 14-stitch straps make a holder 7.75 in (19.7 cm) wide and 18.5 in (47.0 cm) tall. If you check each stage as you go, the finished holder will hang straight and hold every roll securely.
Happy crocheting!