This hanging holder keeps three spare rolls in sight and within reach. Three cream mesh baskets are joined in a column and hang from a wooden ring. Each basket has a sage-green rope rim and a golden sunflower on the front.
The colors are soft and warm: cream for the open trellis mesh, sage green for the rims, leaves and strap, golden yellow for the petals and chocolate brown for the flower centers. The style is cottage-farmhouse, and it works in a bathroom, laundry room or kids’ bath.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. Each basket measures 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across the base and 4 in (10.2 cm) tall. The joined column is 16.75 in (42.5 cm) long. With the strap and ring, the full hanging length is about 21.25 in (54.0 cm).
Construction is simple. Each basket starts as a flat single crochet circle, turns upward into staggered mesh sides, and grows a short mesh back panel. A two-round green border goes around the opening and the panel. The flowers and leaves are made separately and sewn on. The baskets are then stacked and sewn panel-to-base, and a strap attaches the top basket to the ring.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished basket: 5.5 in (14.0 cm) base diameter × 4 in (10.2 cm) tall
- Back panel: 5.75 in (14.6 cm) wide, rising 1.75 in (4.4 cm) above the rim
- Joined column: 16.75 in (42.5 cm) long; about 21.25 in (54.0 cm) with strap and ring
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 3 baskets, 3 sunflowers, 6 leaves, 1 strap
- Layout: 1 column × 3 baskets, stacked vertically
- Basket height before border: 3.5 in (8.9 cm)
- Border depth: 0.5 in (1.3 cm), 2 rounds
Materials
Use a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds the basket shape, shows the mesh clearly and copes with bathroom humidity. Avoid fuzzy or very drapey yarns, because they let the sides slump.
- Cream (main color): 165 g / about 280 m
- Sage green: 70 g / about 119 m
- Golden yellow: 30 g / about 51 m
- Chocolate brown: 10 g / about 17 m
Tools:
– 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
– Wooden ring, 3 in (7.6 cm) diameter
– Tapestry needle
– Stitch markers (at least 4)
– Scissors
– Measuring tape
– Rust-proof pins for blocking
All quantities include a margin of roughly 10–15% for gauge swatching and tension differences.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet
- BLO – back loop only
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- RS – right side
Special stitch – crab stitch (reverse sc): With the RS facing, work from left to right. Insert the hook into the next stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops. This makes a twisted, rope-like edge.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc and 16 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm). In mesh, 8 dc-plus-ch-1 units = 4 in (10.2 cm) wide, and 2 rounds = 1 in (2.5 cm) tall.
Make one complete basket before starting the others, and check it at each stage:
- After Round 6: the base is 3 in (7.6 cm) across.
- After Round 11: the base is 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across and lies flat.
- After Round 19: the sides are 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall.
- After the border: the sides are 4 in (10.2 cm) tall, and the panel rises 1.75 in (4.4 cm) above the rim.
If the base is too big, or the rounds ruffle, change to a 4.5 mm hook. If it is too small, or cups before Round 11, change to a 5.5 mm hook. A standard roll is about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide, so the base must reach at least 5 in (12.7 cm).
Basket (Make 3)
The basket is worked in joined rounds with the RS facing. Join every round with a sl st to the first stitch. The ch-1 at the start of a round never counts as a stitch. All round joins line up at the center back, and that line marks where the back panel goes.
Base (Cream)
Round 1: Make a magic ring, ch 1, and work 6 sc into the ring. Join. (6 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around. Join. (12 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * around. Join. (18 sts)
Round 4: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat around. Join. (24 sts)
Round 5: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat around. Join. (30 sts)
Round 6: Ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat around. Join. (36 sts)
Checkpoint: the base is 3 in (7.6 cm) across.
Round 7: Ch 1, sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat around. Join. (42 sts)
Round 8: Ch 1, sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat around. Join. (48 sts)
Round 9: Ch 1, sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat around. Join. (54 sts)
Round 10: Ch 1, sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat around. Join. (60 sts)
Round 11: Ch 1, sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat around. Join. (66 sts)
Checkpoint: the base is 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across and flat.
Sides (Cream)
Round 12 (turning round): Ch 1, sc in the BLO of each st around. Join. (66 sts)
This round turns the work upward and leaves a ridge of free front loops from Round 11 around the base edge. You will use those loops later for joining.
Round 13: Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), skip the next st, dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st; repeat from * around. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4. (33 dc + 33 ch-1 sps = 66 sts)
Round 14 (staggered mesh): Sl st into the first ch-1 sp, ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat around. Join to the 3rd ch of the ch-4. (33 dc + 33 ch-1 sps = 66 sts)
Rounds 15–18: Repeat Round 14 four more times. Each round’s dc sits in the space between the dc of the round below, which gives the offset trellis look. (66 sts each round)
Round 19: Ch 1, sc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp around. Join. (33 + 33 = 66 sts)
Checkpoint: the sides are 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall. Do not fasten off.
Back Panel (Cream)
Find the Round 19 join at the center back. Place markers so that 23 sts are marked, centered on the join. Those are the panel stitches, and the other 43 sts form the front opening.
Row 1 (RS): Sl st over to the first marked st. Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), skip the next st, dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st; repeat until 1 marked st remains, then dc in the last marked st. Turn. (12 dc + 11 ch-1 sps = 23 sts)
Rows 2–3: Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), dc in next dc, ch 1; repeat across, ending with a dc in the 3rd ch of the turning ch. Turn. (23 sts each row)
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp across. (12 + 11 = 23 sts) Fasten off.
The panel is 5.75 in (14.6 cm) wide.
Sunflower (Make 3)
Round 1 (brown): Make a magic ring, ch 1, and work 8 sc into the ring. Join. (8 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around. Join. (16 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st; repeat around. Join. (24 sts) Fasten off brown.
The center is 1.5 in (3.8 cm) across.
Round 4 (yellow petals): Join yellow in any st. Ch 6. Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, work sl st, sc, hdc, dc and tr, one in each ch. Skip the next st of Round 3 and sl st in the following st. Repeat from * around. (12 petals)
Each petal starts with a tr at the flower center and narrows to a sl st at the tip, which makes the pointed shape. The flower is 3.7 in (9.4 cm) across. Leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail for sewing.
Leaf (Make 6, Sage Green)
Ch 8.
Side 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, work sc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc and sc, one in each of the next 6 chs. Work 3 sc in the last ch.
Side 2: Working along the other side of the chain, work sc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc and sc. Sl st to the first sc. (15 sts)
The leaf is 2 in (5.1 cm) long, with a point at the sc end. Leave a tail for sewing.
Strap (Make 1, Sage Green)
Ch 7.
Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. Turn. (6 sts)
Rows 2–22: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (6 sts each row)
The strap is 1.5 in × 5.5 in (3.8 × 14.0 cm). Fasten off and leave a long tail.
Border (Each Basket, Sage Green)
Border gauge: 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm). This is the same as the base gauge, so the rim neither flares nor pulls in.
Round A: With the RS facing, join green in the first front-opening st of Round 19, just after the panel. Work as follows:
- Front opening: 1 sc in each of the 43 front sts. (43)
- Panel side 1: Up the panel edge, 2 sc in each dc row end (Rows 1–3) and 1 sc in the sc row end (Row 4). (7)
- Panel top: 3 sc in the first corner st, 1 sc in each of the next 21 sts, and 3 sc in the last corner st. (21 + 6 = 27, which is 23 sts worked once each plus 4 extra corner sts)
- Panel side 2: Down the other edge, 1 sc in the Row 4 end and 2 sc in each dc row end. (7)
Join. (43 + 7 + 27 + 7 = 84 sts)
Round B: Ch 1, then crab stitch in each st around. Join and fasten off. (84 sts)
Why the math works: The 43 front sts plus the 23 panel sts equal the 66 sts of Round 19, so the rim matches the basket’s circumference exactly. Each dc row end gets 2 sc because a dc row is about as tall as 2 sc are wide. The 4 extra sts appear only at the 2 outer panel corners, and the side counts of 7 do not include those corners.
The finished basket is 4 in (10.2 cm) tall at the front. Its panel top sits 5.75 in (14.6 cm) above the base.
Appliqué Assembly
On each basket, find the center front, opposite the panel. Pin two leaves so their wide ends meet just below the center of the mesh, about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) above the base, with the tips angled out to the lower left and right.
Pin a sunflower on top so that its center sits 2 in (5.1 cm) above the base, at Rounds 15–16, and the petals overlap the leaf bases. Sew the leaves down first. Then sew the flower around the outer edge of the brown center and tack down each petal tip. Catch the dc posts of the mesh rather than the open spaces.
Make All Pieces
- Cream: 3 basket bodies with back panels
- Sage green: 3 borders, 6 leaves, 1 strap
- Yellow and brown: 3 sunflowers
Layout, from top to bottom:
[ ring ]
[ strap ]
[ Basket 1 ]
[ Basket 2 ]
[ Basket 3 ]
Joining
Method: Whipstitch with sage green, using the tapestry needle.
Stitch-to-stitch logic: Place Basket 2’s panel behind Basket 1, with the green top edge of the panel level with Basket 1’s base edge. The panel top has 27 sts. On Basket 1, count 27 free Round 11 front loops centered on the back join (the 23 sts above the panel plus 2 on each side). Sew one panel-top stitch to one front loop, 27 to 27. Join Basket 3 to Basket 2 the same way.
Tension: Pull each stitch snug but not tight. The seam should lie flat without puckering the base edge. Go back over the seam a second time for strength, because this seam carries the weight of the baskets below.
Strap: Thread the strap through the ring. Pin both ends to the back of Basket 1’s panel, overlapping it by 1 in (2.5 cm), so that 1.5 in (3.8 cm) of strap shows above the panel. Sew around all edges of the overlap.
Checkpoint: There is a 1.5 in (3.8 cm) gap between each rim and the base above it. The column measures 16.75 in (42.5 cm) from the bottom of Basket 3 to the top of Basket 1’s panel.
Final Blocking
- Wet the holder thoroughly in cool water and press out the water gently. Do not wring it.
- Roll it in a towel to remove excess moisture.
- Stuff each basket with a towel-wrapped roll so the sides set round and upright.
- Pin each flower flat and spread the petals evenly.
- Shape each crab-stitch rim so it is level all the way around.
- Hang or lay the piece flat until it is completely dry, which takes 24–48 hours.
- Remove the rolls and check the measurements.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each base is 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across and lies flat.
- Each basket is 4 in (10.2 cm) tall.
- The mesh is staggered evenly, with no skipped spaces.
- Each border has 84 sts, with smooth corners on the panel.
- The flowers are centered, the petals are tacked down and the leaves are symmetrical.
- The seams are doubled and secure.
- The strap is centered and sewn on all sides.
- All yarn ends are woven in through solid stitches.
Troubleshooting
- The base cups: You need more increases or a bigger hook. Check that each round adds 6 sts.
- The base ruffles: Change to a smaller hook, and check that you did not increase twice in one repeat.
- The sides lean outward: Your mesh is looser than your sc. Make the ch-1s smaller, or work the mesh with a hook one size smaller.
- The rim is wavy: Count Round A again. It should have 84 sts.
- The petals curl: Block them flat, and keep the ch-6 relaxed.
- The column twists: Re-pin so each panel is centered on the back join of the basket above.
Care
Hand wash in cool water and lay flat to dry. Reshape the baskets over rolls while they are damp.
Final Notes
The measurements build on each other. A 5.5 in (14.0 cm) base of 66 sts carries 66-st mesh sides up to 3.5 in (8.9 cm). The border adds 0.5 in (1.3 cm), which brings each basket to 4 in (10.2 cm). Each panel rises 1.75 in (4.4 cm) above its rim, so stacking three baskets gives a 16.75 in (42.5 cm) column and a hanging length of about 21.25 in (54.0 cm).
If your gauge matches at each checkpoint, the finished holder will match too. Happy crocheting!