The Teal Arcade hanger is a three-tier wall organizer made from three D-shaped baskets stacked on crocheted straps and hung from a wooden ring. Each basket has a flat back, a curved front and a band of open arches with a ribbed fan inside each arch.
The whole piece is worked in one deep teal bulky cotton cord. A single color shows off the texture: solid single crochet, open windows and a thick rounded rim. It fits well in a bathroom, nursery or entryway and holds a standard toilet paper roll in each tier.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. Each basket measures about 9.25 in (23.5 cm) wide, 4.75 in (12.1 cm) deep and 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall. The assembled hanger is about 28.75 in (73.0 cm) long, including the ring.
Construction is simple. You crochet a half-circle base in rows, work one edge round around it, then work the walls upward in joined rounds. Next you crochet three flat straps. Finally, you sew the baskets to the straps and fold the strap tops over the ring.
Finished Size and Construction
- Basket size: 9.25 in (23.5 cm) wide × 4.75 in (12.1 cm) deep × 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall
- Assembled length: about 28.75 in (73.0 cm), including the ring
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Bulky (#5) cotton cord
- Hook: 6 mm (US J-10)
- Number of pieces: 3 baskets + 3 straps + 1 purchased wooden ring
- Layout: baskets stacked vertically with 3 in (7.6 cm) gaps between them
- Base size after edge round: 9.2 in (23.4 cm) × 4.6 in (11.7 cm)
- Wall height before border: 3.3 in (8.4 cm)
- Border (rim) depth: 1.2 in (3.0 cm)
Materials
Yarn: Use a bulky cotton or cotton-blend cord with good stitch definition. Soft acrylic will give you baskets that slump. The cord should be firm enough that a single-crochet fabric stands on its own.
- Teal: 400 g / 300 m (328 yd). That’s about four 100 g skeins of 75 m (82 yd) each.
Tools:
- 6 mm (US J-10) crochet hook
- Wooden ring, 2.75 in (7.0 cm) across
- 6 locking stitch markers
- Tapestry needle with a large eye
- Scissors and a measuring tape
- Rust-proof pins and a spray bottle for blocking
The yarn quantity includes a margin of about 15% for gauge swatches, sewing and weaving in ends.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- dc: double crochet
- tr: treble crochet
- BLO: back loop only
- sp: space
- st(s): stitch(es)
- rep: repeat
Special stitch: Reverse single crochet (rev sc). Work single crochet from left to right (right to left if you’re left-handed). Insert the hook into the next stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, then yarn over and draw through both loops. It makes a rounded, corded edge.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 12 sc × 13 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc worked in the round. Each sc is about 0.33 in wide, and each sc row is about 0.31 in tall.
Make one complete basket before starting the others. Check it at each of these points:
- After Base Row 7, the straight edge is 4.3 in (10.9 cm) long.
- After Base Row 14, the base is 8.6 in (21.8 cm) wide and 4.3 in (10.9 cm) deep.
- After Base Rnd 15, the base is 9.2 in (23.4 cm) × 4.6 in (11.7 cm), and the edge is 24 in (61.0 cm) all the way around.
- After Rnd 20, the wall is 1.5 in (3.8 cm) tall.
- After Rnd 21, the wall is 2.4 in (6.1 cm) tall.
- After Rnd 23, the wall is 3.3 in (8.4 cm) tall.
- After Rnd 27, the wall is 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall.
If your base is too big or ruffles, go down a hook size. If it’s too small or cups, go up a hook size. Don’t add or remove rows to fix the size, because the stitch counts and the arch layout depend on the 72-stitch edge.
Basket (Make 3)
Base
The base is a half circle worked in turned rows. Each row adds 3 stitches.
Row 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 1, then work 4 sc into the ring. Tighten the ring and turn. (4 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the first st, then work 2 sc in each of the next 3 sts. Turn. (7 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the first st, then sc in next st, 2 sc in next st; rep from * 2 more times. Turn. (10 sts)
Rows 4–14: Ch 1, sc in the first st, then sc in each of the next (row number minus 2) sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * 2 more times. Turn.
Each row has 3n + 1 stitches, where n is the row number:
- Row 4: 13
- Row 5: 16
- Row 6: 19
- Row 7: 22
- Row 8: 25
- Row 9: 28
- Row 10: 31
- Row 11: 34
- Row 12: 37
- Row 13: 40
- Row 14: 43
To check the math: Row n uses 1 + 3 × (n − 1) stitches from the row below, which equals that row’s 3n − 2 stitches. It produces 1 + 3n stitches.
Rnd 15 (edge round): Don’t turn. Ch 1. Work along the straight edge first: 13 sc spread evenly across the 14 row ends of the first half, 1 sc in the center of the magic ring, then 13 sc spread evenly across the 14 row ends of the second half. That’s 27 sts along the straight back.
Now work along the curve: 2 sc in the first st of Row 14, sc in each of the next 41 sts, then 2 sc in the last st. That’s 45 sts along the curved front. Join with a sl st to the first sc.
Total: 27 + 45 = 72 sts.
Place a marker in the first st of the round and another in the 28th st. These mark the two back corners. Stitches 1–27 are the flat back, and stitches 28–72 are the curved front.
Walls
All wall rounds are joined. Start each round in the joining stitch and finish with a sl st to the first stitch. Don’t turn.
Rnd 16: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around. This makes a crisp fold line between the base and the wall. (72 sts)
Rnds 17–20: Ch 1, sc in each st around. (72 sts)
The wall should now be 1.5 in (3.8 cm) tall.
Arch Band
The band repeats every 12 stitches, which gives 6 arches in total. Because each round starts at the back corner, two arches fall on the flat back and four fall across the curved front.
Rnd 21 (windows): Ch 4 (counts as tr), tr in the next st. Ch 8, skip 8 sts, tr in each of the next 4 sts; rep from * 4 more times. Ch 8, skip 8 sts, tr in each of the last 2 sts. Join to the top of the beginning ch-4.
This round uses 2 + 5 × (8 + 4) + 8 + 2 = 72 stitches from the round below. It produces 24 tr and 6 ch-8 sps. Each window is about 2.7 in (6.9 cm) wide.
Rnd 22 (fans): Ch 1, sc in each of the first 2 tr. Work 8 dc in the next ch-8 sp, then sc in each of the next 4 tr; rep from * 4 more times. Work 8 dc in the last ch-8 sp, then sc in each of the last 2 tr. Join.
This gives 24 sc + 48 dc = 72 sts. The fans sit on top of the chains and fan out like ribs inside each arch.
Rnd 23 (arch tops): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in the next sc. Sc in each of the next 8 dc, dc in each of the next 4 sc; rep from * 4 more times. Sc in each of the next 8 dc, dc in each of the last 2 sc. Join.
This gives 24 dc + 48 sc = 72 sts. A dc over a short column sc reaches the same height as an sc over a tall fan dc, so the top edge comes out level. The curves of the arches stay visible underneath.
The wall should now be 3.3 in (8.4 cm) tall. Don’t cut the yarn. The border comes next.
Straps (Make 3)
Foundation: Ch 91.
Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. Turn. (90 sts)
Rows 2–3: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (90 sts)
Fasten off. Each strap is 30 in (76.2 cm) long and 0.9 in (2.3 cm) wide.
Make All Pieces
- Baskets: 3 in teal. Each uses about 110 g / 82 m (90 yd).
- Straps: 3 in teal. Each uses about 15 g / 11 m (12 yd).
- Ring: 1 wooden ring, purchased.
Layout as seen from the front:
( RING )
/ | \
Strap A Strap C Strap B
| (center |
| back) |
[ BASKET 1 ] top
| | 3 in (7.6 cm) gap
[ BASKET 2 ]
| | 3 in (7.6 cm) gap
[ BASKET 3 ] bottom
Joining
Mark the straps. Measure along each side strap (A and B) from the bottom end and place markers at these points:
- 4.5 in (11.4 cm)
- 7.5 in (19.1 cm)
- 12 in (30.5 cm)
- 15 in (38.1 cm)
- 19.5 in (49.5 cm)
The baskets sit in the sections from 0–4.5 in, 7.5–12 in and 15–19.5 in.
Method. Whipstitch the strap flat against the outside of each basket wall, using a long tail of teal. Center Strap A over the back corner at stitch 1, and center Strap B over the back corner at stitch 28.
Sew down both long edges of the strap. Sew from the base fold (Rnd 16) up to the rim (Rnd 27).
Stitch-to-stitch logic. Each 4.5 in (11.4 cm) section of strap has 13–14 sc along its edge, while the wall has 12 rounds (Rnds 16–27). Sew one strap stitch to each wall round, and pick up a second strap stitch at Rnd 21 and again at Rnd 24. This takes up the extra strap length without puckering.
Strap C. Fold the first 2 in (5.1 cm) of Strap C under the bottom basket’s base and sew it down. Then sew the strap up the center of all three flat backs, over stitch 14 of each round.
Tension. Pull each stitch snug but not tight. The strap should lie flat, and the basket wall shouldn’t dimple.
Size checkpoint. It should be 19.5 in (49.5 cm) from the bottom of Basket 3 to the rim of Basket 1. Each gap should be exactly 3 in (7.6 cm).
Ring. Gather the three strap tops so that the ring sits 6.5 in (16.5 cm) above the top rim. Fold each strap over the ring and sew the tail flat to the back of its own strap. The two side straps form the triangle.
Border
The border is the rim of each basket, worked straight on from Rnd 23.
Border gauge: 3 sc per inch, the same as the body. The 4 border rounds add 1.2 in (3.0 cm) of height.
Rnd 24: Ch 1, sc in each st around. That’s 27 sts across the back and 45 sts around the front. (72 sts)
Rnd 25: Ch 1, sc in each st around. (27 back + 45 front = 72 sts)
Rnd 26: Ch 1, sc in each st around. (27 back + 45 front = 72 sts)
Rnd 27: Ch 1, work rev sc in each st around. (27 back + 45 front = 72 sts) Join and fasten off.
Why the math works. The rim keeps exactly the 72 stitches from the Rnd 15 base edge, split the same way (27 + 45). It has no increases or decreases, so the wall rises straight without flaring or pulling in.
Reverse sc is worked one per stitch, so the corded edge stays firm and the 24 in (61.0 cm) circumference doesn’t change. The back corners sit at the same stitches in every round, so the strap lines stay straight.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends along the inside of the solid wall rounds.
- Spray each basket until it’s damp but not soaked.
- Stuff each basket firmly with a towel shaped into a D, so the back is flat and the front curves smoothly.
- Open each arch with your fingers and fan the dc stitches evenly.
- Pin the straps flat, check that they’re straight and the right length, and let them dry.
- Let everything dry completely for 24 hours before you hang it.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Every base edge has 72 sts (27 back + 45 front).
- Every rim has 72 sts.
- Each basket has 6 arches: 2 on the back and 4 on the front.
- All baskets are 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall.
- All straps are 30 in (76.2 cm) long before assembly.
- Both gaps between baskets are 3 in (7.6 cm).
- The ring sits 6.5 in (16.5 cm) above the top rim.
- No basket tilts when it’s hung empty.
Troubleshooting
- The base cups: Your tension is too tight. Go up a hook size or loosen the increases.
- The base ruffles: Go down a hook size. Also check that each row adds exactly 3 stitches.
- The arches are uneven: Recount the skipped stitches in Rnd 21. Each window must skip exactly 8.
- The top edge is wavy: Check that Rnd 23 has dc over the columns and sc over the fans.
- The baskets tilt forward: Sew the strap edges all the way to the rim, and check that Strap C is attached to every basket.
- The straps stretch: Use a firmer cord, or add a row of sl sts down each long edge.
Care
Hand wash in cool water and reshape while damp. Dry flat, with the baskets stuffed to hold their shape.
Final Notes
The measurement chain goes like this:
- Gauge of 12 sc per 4 in (10.2 cm) gives a 9.2 in (23.4 cm) base.
- The base edge is 72 stitches, or 24 in (61.0 cm) around.
- The walls are 3.3 in (8.4 cm) tall before the border, plus a 1.2 in (3.0 cm) rim, for a 4.5 in (11.4 cm) basket.
- Three baskets with two 3 in (7.6 cm) gaps make 19.5 in (49.5 cm).
- The triangle and ring add the rest, for 28.75 in (73.0 cm) in total.
If every checkpoint matches, the hanger will hang straight.
Happy crocheting!