This two-tier hanging basket gives you sturdy storage that looks good on the wall. Two rounded-rectangle baskets hang one above the other from a wooden ring. Each basket holds a standard toilet paper roll standing upright, and it works just as well for washcloths, soaps or small bathroom extras.
The sample uses one deep teal yarn throughout. Each basket wall has a solid base band, a row of plump puff stitches, an open diamond lattice, a second puff row and a solid rim edged in crab stitch. Next to the airy lattice, the dense straps and bases keep the piece looking tidy.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. Each basket measures about 7.75 in long x 5 in deep x 4.25 in tall (19.7 x 12.7 x 10.8 cm). From the top of the ring to the bottom of the lower basket, the hanging organizer is about 20 in (50.8 cm) long.
Each basket is worked in one piece. You crochet an oval base in joined rounds, then turn upward through the back loops and work the walls straight up without increasing. The four straps are simple single crochet strips, which you sew on at the end.
Finished Size and Construction
- Basket size: 7.75 in x 5 in x 4.25 in (19.7 x 12.7 x 10.8 cm)
- Overall hanging length: about 20 in (50.8 cm)
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Bulky (#5) cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 6.0 mm (US J-10)
- Number of pieces: 6 crocheted pieces (2 baskets, 2 long straps, 2 short connector straps) plus 1 wooden ring
- Layout: 1 column x 2 baskets, stacked vertically
- Piece size: each basket as above; long strap 1.33 x 12 in (3.4 x 30.5 cm); short strap 1.33 x 4 in (3.4 x 10.2 cm)
- Wall height before rim border: 3.5 in (8.9 cm)
- Rim border depth: 0.75 in (1.9 cm)
Materials
Pick a firm, smooth cotton or cotton blend in bulky weight. Cotton holds its shape in a damp bathroom and shows the puff and lattice texture clearly. Soft acrylic will sag, so avoid it.
- Teal (single color): about 250 g / 340 m (372 yd)
- 6.0 mm (US J-10) crochet hook
- 1 wooden ring, 2.5 in (6.4 cm) outer diameter
- 4 stitch markers
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- A box about 7.75 x 5 in (19.7 x 12.7 cm) for blocking (optional but helpful)
The yarn amount includes a margin of about 10–15% for your gauge swatch and any small differences in tension.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sc – single crochet
- sl st – slip stitch
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sp – space
- BLO – back loop only
- rep – repeat
- rev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
Special stitches
- Puff: *Yarn over, insert hook in the indicated stitch, pull up a loop to about 0.5 in (1.3 cm); rep from * 2 more times (7 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw through all 7 loops, then ch 1 to lock. The locking chain is not counted as a stitch.
- Rev sc (crab stitch): Working from left to right (right-handed), insert the hook in the next stitch to the right, pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 12 sc x 13 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm), worked in rows with the 6.0 mm hook.
Work one strap or one basket base first and measure it before you go further. This firm gauge is what keeps the walls standing upright.
Checkpoints:
- Base after Round 4: about 5.2 x 2.5 in (13.2 x 6.4 cm)
- Base after Round 8: 7.75 x 5 in (19.7 x 12.7 cm)
- Wall after Round 16: 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall from the base
- Basket after Round 19: 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall
- Straps: 1.33 in (3.4 cm) wide; long strap 12 in (30.5 cm), short strap 4 in (10.2 cm)
If your piece is too big: go down to a 5.5 mm hook. If it is too small: go up to a 6.5 mm hook. Change hooks before starting the walls, because all wall rounds depend on the 64-stitch base.
Basket (Make 2)
Each round is joined. The ch 1 at the start of a round never counts as a stitch. Each round is built from four sections: End A, Side 1, End B, Side 2. The two straight sides always have 8 sts. The ends grow by 3 sts each round.
Base
Ch 11.
Round 1: 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook (End A), sc in next 8 ch (Side 1), 3 sc in last ch (End B). Rotate and work along the underside of the foundation chain: sc in next 8 ch (Side 2). Join with sl st to first sc. (22 sts: 3 + 8 + 3 + 8)
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in next 8, 2 sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in next 8. Join. (28 sts: 6 + 8 + 6 + 8)
Round 3: Ch 1, (sc, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, sc in next 8, (sc, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, sc in next 8. Join. (34 sts: 9 + 8 + 9 + 8)
Round 4: Ch 1, (sc in next 2, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, sc in next 8, (sc in next 2, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, sc in next 8. Join. (40 sts: 12 + 8 + 12 + 8)
Checkpoint: about 5.2 x 2.5 in (13.2 x 6.4 cm).
Round 5: Ch 1, (sc in next 3, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, sc in next 8, (sc in next 3, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, sc in next 8. Join. (46 sts: 15 + 8 + 15 + 8)
Round 6: Ch 1, (sc in next 4, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, sc in next 8, (sc in next 4, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, sc in next 8. Join. (52 sts: 18 + 8 + 18 + 8)
Round 7: Ch 1, (sc in next 5, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, sc in next 8, (sc in next 5, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, sc in next 8. Join. (58 sts: 21 + 8 + 21 + 8)
Round 8: Ch 1, (sc in next 6, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, sc in next 8, (sc in next 6, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, sc in next 8. Join. (64 sts: 24 + 8 + 24 + 8)
Checkpoint: 7.75 x 5 in (19.7 x 12.7 cm). Each end has three stacked lines of increases. When you block the basket, the outer two lines become soft corners, which gives the base its rounded-rectangle shape instead of a true oval.
Walls
Round 9 (turning round): Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around. Join. (64 sts) The unworked front loops form a crisp fold line, and the sides start to rise.
Round 10: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (64 sts)
Round 11 (puff round): Ch 1, puff in first st, ch 1, skip next st, puff in next st, ch 1, skip next st; rep from * around. Join with sl st to top of first puff. (32 puffs + 32 ch-1 sps = 64 sts)*
Round 12 (lattice set-up): Sl st into first ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 4, skip next ch-1 sp, sc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * 14 more times, ch 4, skip last ch-1 sp. Join to first sc. (16 sc, 16 ch-4 loops)*
Round 13: Sl st in next 2 ch, ch 1, sc in same loop, ch 4, sc in next ch-4 loop; rep from * 14 more times, ch 4. Join to first sc. (16 ch-4 loops)*
Round 14: Rep Round 13. (16 ch-4 loops)
Each sc sits in the middle of the loop below it, so the loops close up into diamonds.
Round 15 (conversion round): Sl st into first ch-4 loop, ch 1, 4 sc in each ch-4 loop around. Join. (16 loops x 4 sc = 64 sts)
Round 16 (puff round): Rep Round 11. (32 puffs + 32 ch-1 sps = 64 sts)
Checkpoint: the wall is 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall measured from the fold line.
Rim Border
The rim border is worked directly onto each basket. It adds 0.75 in (1.9 cm), bringing the wall up to its full 4.25 in (10.8 cm).
Border gauge: same as the main gauge, 12 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm). In crab stitch, 64 sts should lie flat around a 21.3 in (54.1 cm) rim.
Round 17: Ch 1, sc in top of each puff and in each ch-1 sp around. Join. (32 + 32 = 64 sts)
The rim keeps the same section layout as the base:
- End A: 24 sts
- Side 1: 8 sts
- End B: 24 sts
- Side 2: 8 sts
Round 18: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (64 sts: 24 + 8 + 24 + 8)
Round 19 (crab stitch): Ch 1, rev sc in each st around. Join and fasten off. (64 sts: 24 + 8 + 24 + 8)
Why the math works: The base finishes at 64 sts. At 3 sts per inch, that is 21.3 in (54.1 cm), which is the measured distance around a 7.75 x 5 in (19.7 x 12.7 cm) base. The walls never increase or decrease, and every pattern round converts back to 64:
- Puff rounds: 32 puffs + 32 sps
- Lattice: 16 loops x 4 sc
This keeps the walls straight and the rim neither flared nor pulled in.
Weave in all ends. Before you sew anything on, mark the 4 center stitches of each curved end on Round 19: stitches 11–14 of End A and stitches 11–14 of End B.
Straps
All straps are worked flat in rows.
Long Strap (Make 2)
Ch 5.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (4 sts)
Rows 2–39: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (4 sts)
Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. Checkpoint: 1.33 x 12 in (3.4 x 30.5 cm).
Short Connector Strap (Make 2)
Ch 5.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (4 sts)
Rows 2–13: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (4 sts)
Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. Checkpoint: 1.33 x 4 in (3.4 x 10.2 cm).
Make All Pieces
Teal (only color):
- 2 baskets, about 95 g each
- 2 long straps, about 12 g each
- 2 short connector straps, about 4 g each
- Total: about 222 g, which fits within the 250 g (340 m) purchase
Layout grid:
[ wooden ring ]
/ \
[long strap] [long strap]
| |
[ ===== Basket 1 (top) ===== ]
[short] [short]
[ ==== Basket 2 (bottom) ==== ]
Joining
Sew everything with the yarn tails and a tapestry needle, using whipstitch through both loops.
Long straps to ring:
- Fold the top 5 rows (about 1.5 in / 3.8 cm) of each strap over the ring.
- Whipstitch the 4 sts of the last row to the 4 sts of Row 34, matching stitch to stitch.
- Push the two straps together so they sit side by side on the ring.
Long straps to the top basket:
- Lay the 4-stitch-wide Row 1 of each strap over the 4 marked center stitches on one curved end, with the strap on the outside of the basket.
- Fold the bottom 5 rows (about 1.5 in / 3.8 cm) over the rim to the inside.
- Sew through the strap and wall all the way around the folded section.
- This leaves 29 rows, about 9 in (22.9 cm), of strap showing.
Short straps:
- Center 4 rows (about 1.25 in / 3.2 cm) of each short strap on the outside of the top basket’s curved end, directly below the long strap. Line the strap up with the fold line and sew it down.
- Leave the next 5 rows (about 1.5 in / 3.8 cm) free to make the gap.
- Fold the last 4 rows over the marked center stitches on the lower basket’s rim and sew them inside.
Tension: Make the stitches snug, but do not let them pucker the wall. The basket should not dimple when you lift it by the strap.
Size checkpoint: Hang the organizer from a hook. It should measure about 20 in (50.8 cm) overall, with a 1.5 in (3.8 cm) gap between the baskets. Both rims should sit level.
Final Blocking
- Wet each basket and squeeze out the water; do not wring it.
- Fit each basket over a box about 7.75 x 5 in (19.7 x 12.7 cm), or stuff it firmly with towels.
- Pull the curved ends into soft corners and straighten the lattice diamonds.
- Pin the straps flat at 1.33 in (3.4 cm) wide.
- Let everything dry completely, which takes 24–48 hours.
- Join the pieces after blocking. If you already joined them, hang the organizer to dry so the straps settle straight.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each base round ends with the correct count, finishing at 64
- Both baskets measure 7.75 x 5 x 4.25 in (19.7 x 12.7 x 10.8 cm)
- The lattice has 16 even diamonds
- Each puff round has 32 puffs
- The crab stitch rim lies flat with no ruffling
- All straps are 4 sts wide and the correct length
- Straps are centered on the curved ends and sewn on securely
- Ends are woven in and hidden inside the wall
- The organizer hangs level
Troubleshooting
- Base ruffles: Your tension is too loose. Go down a hook size, or check that each end gains exactly 3 sts per round.
- Base cups upward: Too few increases. Recount the end sections.
- Walls flare out: Check that every round stays at 64 sts, and that Round 9 is worked in back loops only.
- Lattice looks lopsided: Make sure every sc goes in the center of a loop, not at its edge.
- Puffs look flat: Pull up taller loops, about 0.5 in (1.3 cm).
- Basket tilts: One strap is sewn off center. Re-sew it over the 4 marked stitches.
Care
Hand wash in cool water and lay flat or reshape over a box to dry. Shake out any dust regularly, and keep the organizer away from direct splashes.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is simple:
- Gauge of 12 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm)
- Base of 64 sts = 7.75 x 5 in (19.7 x 12.7 cm)
- Straight 64-stitch walls = 3.5 in (8.9 cm)
- Rim border of 0.75 in (1.9 cm), for a 4.25 in (10.8 cm) basket
- Straps of 39 and 13 rows that hang the organizer at about 20 in (50.8 cm)
Check each link in that chain as you go and the finished piece will come out right.
Happy crocheting!