This hanging organizer gives you three oval baskets in a single vertical column. The base and walls are deep teal, the walls carry a lace of pointed leaves set in a chain net, and each basket finishes with a firm oatmeal rim. Wooden dowels and crocheted cords hold the stack flat against the wall, so it works well in an entryway, beside a reading chair or in a craft corner.
The style is quiet and a little botanical. The lace keeps the baskets light while the solid single-crochet base keeps them sturdy. The beige rim frames each tier and stops the opening from stretching.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. Each basket measures about 11 1/4 in (28.6 cm) long, 4 in (10.2 cm) deep and 4 3/8 in (11.1 cm) tall. The assembled organizer is about 14 in (35.6 cm) wide at the dowels and about 23 1/2 in (59.7 cm) tall from the hook to the bottom of the lowest basket.
Here’s how it’s built. You crochet an oval base in rounds, turn up the wall with a back-loop round, and work three tiers of leaf lace. Then you switch to beige for the rim. You make three baskets, crochet two slip-stitch cords, and tie the stack together with three dowels.
Finished Size and Construction
- Basket size: 11 1/4 in (28.6 cm) long x 4 in (10.2 cm) deep x 4 3/8 in (11.1 cm) tall
- Assembled size: about 14 in (35.6 cm) wide x 23 1/2 in (59.7 cm) tall
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
- Hook: 5 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 3 baskets + 2 cords (crocheted), plus 3 dowels
- Layout: 1 column x 3 tiers, dowels spaced 6 in (15.2 cm) apart
- Wall height before rim: 3 1/2 in (8.9 cm)
- Rim depth: 4 rounds, about 7/8 in (2.2 cm)
Materials
Use a smooth, firmly twisted worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds the basket shape and shows the leaf texture clearly. Avoid soft acrylics, which make the walls slump. These amounts assume about 160 m (175 yd) per 100 g.
- Color A, deep teal: 300 g, about 480 m (525 yd), for bases, lace walls and cords
- Color B, oatmeal beige: 50 g, about 80 m (87 yd), for rims
Quantities include a margin of about 15 percent.
Tools:
– 5 mm (H-8) crochet hook
– 3 wooden dowels, 14 in (35.6 cm) long and 5/8 in (1.6 cm) thick
– 8 locking stitch markers
– Tapestry needle
– Measuring tape
– Spray starch or a fabric stiffener (optional)
– A wall hook
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- dc: double crochet
- BLO: back loop only
- sk: skip
- sp: space
- st(s): stitch(es)
- rep: repeat
Special stitch: dc7tog (leaf cluster). *Yarn over, insert hook in next dc, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops; rep from * 6 more times (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. This closes a 7-dc fan into one pointed top, which completes the leaf.
Shell: 7 dc worked into the same stitch or space.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc x 18 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in single crochet.
Lace gauge: one 8-stitch repeat = 2 in (5.1 cm) wide, and one leaf tier (2 rounds) is about 1 in (2.5 cm) tall.
Make one complete basket before you start the others. It’s your real gauge test.
Checkpoints:
– After Round 5: base about 9 1/2 in x 2 1/4 in (24.1 x 5.7 cm)
– After Round 9: base about 11 1/4 in x 4 in (28.6 x 10.2 cm)
– After Round 17: wall about 3 1/2 in (8.9 cm) tall, measured from the base fold
– After Round 21: basket about 4 3/8 in (11.1 cm) tall
If your base is more than 1/4 in (0.6 cm) too long, change to a 4.5 mm hook. If it’s too short, change to a 5.5 mm hook. Keep the stitch counts as written, because the lace depends on exactly 112 stitches.
Basket (Make 3)
Oval Base
Work in joined rounds with the right side facing. Don’t turn.
With Color A, ch 32.
Round 1: 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 29 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Rotate and work along the underside of the chain: sc in next 29 ch. Sl st to first sc. (64 sts: 29 per long side, 3 per end)
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in next 29 sts, 2 sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in next 29 sts. Sl st to first sc. (70 sts: 29 per long side, 6 per end)
Round 3: Ch 1, (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, sc in next 29 sts, (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, sc in next 29 sts. Sl st to first sc. (76 sts: 29 per long side, 9 per end)
Round 4: Ch 1, (sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, sc in next 29 sts, rep the end and side once more. Sl st to first sc. (82 sts: 29 per long side, 12 per end)
Round 5: Ch 1, (sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, sc in next 29 sts, rep once more. Sl st to first sc. (88 sts: 29 per long side, 15 per end)
Check the base against the Round 5 checkpoint.
Round 6: Same as Round 5, with 4 sc before each increase. (94 sts: 29 per long side, 18 per end)
Round 7: Same, with 5 sc before each increase. (100 sts: 29 per long side, 21 per end)
Round 8: Same, with 6 sc before each increase. (106 sts: 29 per long side, 24 per end)
Round 9: Same, with 7 sc before each increase. (112 sts: 29 per long side, 27 per end)
Each end gains 3 stitches per round, which is half of a flat sc circle’s 6. This keeps the curved ends flat. Check: 29 + 27 + 29 + 27 = 112.
Wall Turn
Round 10: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around. Sl st to first sc. (112 sts)
The unworked front loops make a crisp fold, so the wall stands up from the base.
Leaf Lace Walls
Round 11 (net): Ch 1, sc in first st, ch 5, sk 3 sts, sc in next st; rep from * around, ending with ch 5, sk 3 sts, sl st to first sc. (28 sc, 28 ch-5 loops)*
Each loop covers 4 stitch positions (28 x 4 = 112). Each 8-stitch repeat holds 2 loops.
Round 12 (leaf fans, tier 1): Sl st in first 3 ch of the first loop. Ch 1, sc in same loop, ch 2, 7 dc in next loop, ch 2, sc in next loop, ch 2, 7 dc in next loop, ch 2; rep from * 12 more times. Sl st to first sc. (14 sc, 14 shells = 98 dc, 28 ch-2 sps)*
Round 13 (leaf tops, tier 1): Ch 1, sc in same st as join, ch 3, sk ch-2 sp, dc7tog over next 7 dc, ch 3, sk ch-2 sp, sc in next sc; rep from * around, ending the last rep with ch 3, sl st to first sc. (14 sc, 14 clusters, 28 ch-3 sps)*
Each fan opens from a narrow base and closes into one cluster. That gives the leaf a pointed bottom, a wide middle and a pointed tip. Width check: 14 x (1 sc + 3 ch + 1 cluster + 3 ch) = 112 positions.
Round 14 (leaf fans, staggered): Sl st in each of next 3 ch and in top of next cluster. Ch 1, sc in same cluster, ch 2, 7 dc in next sc, ch 2, sc in top of next cluster; rep from * 12 more times, ch 2, 7 dc in last sc, ch 2, sl st to first sc. (14 sc, 14 shells = 98 dc, 28 ch-2 sps)*
Now the new fans sit on the sc points between the leaves below, so the tiers stagger.
Round 15 (leaf tops): Same as Round 13. (14 sc, 14 clusters, 28 ch-3 sps)
Round 16: Same as Round 14. (14 sc, 14 shells, 28 ch-2 sps)
Round 17: Same as Round 13. (14 sc, 14 clusters, 28 ch-3 sps)
Fasten off Color A. The wall should measure about 3 1/2 in (8.9 cm) from the base fold.
Make All Pieces
- Baskets: 3, each with Color A base and lace and a Color B rim (see Rim below)
- Cords: 2, in Color A
- Dowels: 3, not crocheted
Cord (make 2): With Color A, ch 145. Sl st in the back bump of 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (144 sl sts) Fasten off, leaving 6 in (15.2 cm) tails. Each cord should measure about 48 in (121.9 cm).
Layout grid (front view):
[hook]
/ \
cord / \ cord
===[dowel 1]=========
| BASKET 1 |
===[dowel 2]=========
| BASKET 2 |
===[dowel 3]=========
| BASKET 3 |
Joining
Method: Wrap each cord around the dowel ends and knot it, then whipstitch the cords to the narrow ends of each basket.
- Tie both cords together 1 in (2.5 cm) from their top ends to make a hanging loop.
- Measure 7 in (17.8 cm) down each cord. Wrap each cord twice around dowel 1, 3/4 in (1.9 cm) from the dowel’s end, and tie an overhand knot under the dowel.
- Measure 6 in (15.2 cm) down from each knot and repeat for dowel 2. Repeat for dowel 3.
- Mark each basket’s end centers on the last rim round: the 14th of the 27 stitches on each end.
- Hang each basket in front of its dowel with the rim level with the dowel’s top. Whipstitch the cord to the marked center stitch through all 4 rim rounds, 1 stitch to 1 cord section per round. Tack the cord again at Round 11.
Tension: Pull each whipstitch snug enough to hide the yarn but not so tight that the rim puckers. The rim should stay a smooth oval.
Size checkpoint: Dowels sit 6 in (15.2 cm) apart, and there’s a gap of about 1 5/8 in (4.1 cm) between each basket’s bottom and the next rim. All three rims should be level.
Rim (Border)
Rim gauge: 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm), the same as the base.
With Color B, join with a sl st in any sc of Round 17.
Round 18 (conversion): Ch 1, sc in each sc and each cluster, and 3 sc in each ch-3 sp. Sl st to first sc. (28 sts worked 1 per existing st + 84 sc worked into 28 ch-3 sps = 112 sts)
Line the rim up with the base by placing markers to split it into front 29, end 27, back 29 and end 27 stitches. Count from the stitch directly above the start of one long side of the base.
Round 19: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Sl st to first sc. (112 sts: 29 / 27 / 29 / 27)
Round 20: Same as Round 19. (112 sts)
Round 21: Same as Round 19. Fasten off with an invisible join. (112 sts)
Why the math works: Base Round 9 has 112 stitches, and so does the wall. The lace is 14 repeats of 8 positions (112). The conversion round turns each 8-position repeat back into exactly 8 sc. The rim’s section counts match the base’s 29 / 27 / 29 / 27, so the rim sits directly over the base without flaring or pulling in. These counts are section lengths with no separate corners, so nothing is counted twice.
Final Blocking
- Wet each basket and squeeze out the water in a towel. Don’t wring it.
- Fill the basket with a towel-wrapped box or folded towels about 11 in x 4 in (27.9 x 10.2 cm) in size.
- Smooth the leaves upward with your fingers and open each chain loop evenly.
- Press the base flat and pinch the BLO fold into a sharp edge.
- Mist with spray starch if you want extra stiffness.
- Let it dry completely, at least 24 hours, before you assemble the organizer.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each base measures 11 1/4 in x 4 in (28.6 x 10.2 cm) and lies flat.
- Each base and rim round counts 112 stitches.
- Every wall has 3 staggered tiers of 14 leaves, each closed with a dc7tog.
- Each rim is 4 rounds, about 7/8 in (2.2 cm) deep, and doesn’t flare.
- Each basket stands 4 3/8 in (11.1 cm) tall.
- Dowels are spaced 6 in (15.2 cm) apart, and all knots are tight.
- Every cord is whipstitched at the rim end centers and at Round 11.
- All ends are woven in securely.
Troubleshooting
Base cups upward: Your increases are too tight. Go up a hook size for Rounds 6 to 9 only.
Base ruffles: Recount the end stitches. Each end should gain exactly 3 stitches per round.
Leaves look flat or open at the top: Make sure dc7tog catches all 7 dc of the fan and none of the ch-2 spaces.
Tiers don’t stagger: In Rounds 14 and 16, the fans go into the sc points and the sc goes into the cluster tops.
Rim waves: Work 2 sc instead of 3 into a few ch-3 spaces in Round 18, then adjust to keep 112. Or use a smaller hook for the rim.
Organizer hangs crooked: Re-measure the 7 in (17.8 cm) and 6 in (15.2 cm) cord marks on both sides and retie the knots.
Care
Untie the baskets and hand wash them in cool water. Reshape and dry flat over a form, then dust the dowels with a dry cloth.
Final Notes
Here’s the full measurement chain. Gauge is 16 sc x 18 rounds per 4 in (10.2 cm). The base grows to 112 stitches and 11 1/4 in x 4 in (28.6 x 10.2 cm). The lace walls rise to 3 1/2 in (8.9 cm), and the 4-round rim adds 7/8 in (2.2 cm) for a 4 3/8 in (11.1 cm) basket. Three baskets hang 6 in (15.2 cm) apart on 14 in (35.6 cm) dowels, for an organizer about 23 1/2 in (59.7 cm) tall. If you check each stage as you go, the three tiers will match.
Happy crocheting!