The Teal Tower is a hanging toilet paper holder made of three chunky basketweave baskets stacked in a column. Two slim side straps hold the baskets and meet at a wooden ring at the top, so the whole holder hangs from one wall hook. Each basket holds one standard roll lying on its side.
The sample is worked in one deep teal. This color looks good against cream walls, warm wood and brass fittings. The basketweave blocks stand out clearly in chunky yarn, and a corded rim gives each basket a neat top edge.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder is about 25 in (63.5 cm) from the top of the ring to the bottom of the lowest basket. Each basket measures about 6.75 in (17.1 cm) wide, 4 in (10.2 cm) deep and 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall.
The construction is simple. You crochet a flat rectangular base in rows, then work around it in rounds to form the walls. Front and back post double crochet make the basketweave. Next you make two long straps and sew them to the short ends of all three baskets. Then you work the rim and fold the strap tops over a wooden ring.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: about 25 in (63.5 cm) tall overall, 6.75 in (17.1 cm) wide, 4 in (10.2 cm) deep
- Skill level: Intermediate (post stitches, working in rounds, seaming)
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Bulky (#5)
- Hook: 6.0 mm (US J-10)
- Number of pieces: 5 (3 baskets, 2 straps), plus 1 wooden ring
- Layout: 1 column of 3 baskets, with straps on the left and right ends
- Basket size: 6.75 x 4 x 4.5 in (17.1 x 10.2 x 11.4 cm)
- Basket wall height before border: 3.75 in (9.5 cm)
- Border (rim) depth: 0.75 in (1.9 cm)
Materials
Choose a firm, smooth bulky yarn. Cotton or a cotton blend works best because it holds its shape and doesn’t stretch much under the weight of the rolls. Avoid very soft, fluffy acrylics, which hide the basketweave texture and let the baskets sag.
- Deep teal, bulky (#5): about 310 g / 434 m in total (each basket about 90 g / 126 m; each strap about 20 g / 28 m). Buy 400 g / 560 m (612 yd), for example 4 skeins of 100 g / 140 m (153 yd).
The amount to buy includes a safety margin for your gauge swatch and seaming.
Tools:
- 6.0 mm (US J-10) crochet hook
- Wooden ring, 3 in (7.6 cm) outer diameter
- 4 stitch markers
- Tapestry needle
- Straight pins or clips
- Measuring tape
- Wall hook to hang the finished holder
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- BLO – back loop only
- FPdc – front post double crochet
- BPdc – back post double crochet
- rsc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rnd(s) – round(s)
Special stitches:
- FPdc: Yarn over and insert the hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch below. Yarn over and pull up a loop, then (yarn over, pull through 2 loops) twice.
- BPdc: Yarn over and insert the hook from back to front to back around the post of the stitch below, then finish like a dc.
- rsc: Working from left to right (for right-handers), insert the hook into the next stitch to the right. Yarn over and pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through both loops. This makes the corded rim.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 12 sc x 14 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc. In the basketweave pattern, 2 rnds = 1 in (2.5 cm).
Make one complete basket before the others. It is your real gauge test, and it shows you whether a roll fits.
Checkpoints:
- After base Row 14: 6 x 4 in (15.2 x 10.2 cm).
- After Rnd 1: long sides about 6.75 in (17.1 cm), short sides 4 in (10.2 cm).
- After Rnd 9: walls 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall from the turning ridge.
- After Rnd 12: walls 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall.
If your base is too big, go down to a 5.5 mm hook. If it is too small, go up to a 6.5 mm hook. Remake the base until it matches Checkpoint 1, because every later count depends on it.
Basket (Make 3)
The base is worked in rows. The walls are worked in joined rounds on the right side, without turning. Begin each round with ch 1 (sc rounds) or ch 2 (dc rounds); the turning chain does not count as a stitch. Join each round with a sl st to the first stitch.
Base
Foundation: Ch 19.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (18 sts)
Rows 2–14: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (18 sts per row)
The base now measures 6 x 4 in (15.2 x 10.2 cm).
Walls
Rnd 1 (base edge): Ch 1, turn. Working across Row 14: 2 sc in first st, sc in next 16 sts, 2 sc in last st (20 sts on this long side). Rotate. Working into row ends, sc in each row end of Rows 13 through 2 (12 sts on this short side). Rotate. Working into the free loops of the foundation ch: 2 sc in first ch, sc in next 16 ch, 2 sc in last ch (20 sts). Rotate. Sc in each row end of Rows 2 through 13 (12 sts). Join. (64 sts: 20 + 12 + 20 + 12)
Each long side has 20 sts, which already include the 2 increases at each corner. Each short side has 12 sts with no corner stitches. Place a marker in the first st of each side.
Rnd 2 (turning ridge): Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around. (64 sts)
This round makes the crisp fold that turns the base up into walls.
Rnd 3: Ch 2, dc in each st around. (64 sts)
Rnds 4–5: Ch 2, *FPdc in next 4 sts, BPdc in next 4 sts; repeat from * 7 more times. (64 sts: 32 FPdc, 32 BPdc)
Rnds 6–7: Ch 2, *BPdc in next 4 sts, FPdc in next 4 sts; repeat from * 7 more times. (64 sts)
Rnds 8–9: Repeat Rnds 4–5. (64 sts)
The blocks fit the sides exactly: 5 blocks on each long side (20 sts) and 3 blocks on each short side (12 sts), so the pattern never breaks at a corner. You now have 3 bands of blocks, and the walls measure 3.75 in (9.5 cm). Fasten off, leaving the markers in place. The rim is worked later, in the Border section.
Tip: Post stitches use more yarn and pull the fabric in slightly. If your walls feel stiff and narrow, check that you are working the posts loosely enough to keep the 64-st width.
Strap (Make 2)
Foundation: Ch 4.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 2 ch. (3 sts)
Rows 2–88: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (3 sts per row)
Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. The strap is 1 in (2.5 cm) wide and about 25 in (63.5 cm) long.
Place markers to show where each part goes:
- Rows 1–16: bottom basket (about 4.5 in / 11.4 cm)
- Rows 17–22: gap (about 1.75 in / 4.4 cm)
- Rows 23–38: middle basket
- Rows 39–44: gap
- Rows 45–60: top basket
- Rows 61–80: lead up to the ring (about 5.75 in / 14.6 cm)
- Rows 81–88: fold around the ring (about 2.25 in / 5.7 cm)
Check: 16 + 6 + 16 + 6 + 16 + 20 + 8 = 88 rows.
Make All Pieces
All pieces are deep teal:
- 3 baskets (about 90 g / 126 m each)
- 2 straps (about 20 g / 28 m each)
Layout (front view):
( ring )
/ \
Strap A Strap B
| [ Basket 1 - top ] |
| |
| [ Basket 2 - middle ] |
| |
| [ Basket 3 - bottom ] |
The long sides face front and back. The straps run up the center of the left and right short ends.
Joining
Method: Whipstitch with the strap tail or a separate length of teal yarn.
- Lay the bottom basket on its long side. Center one strap on a short end, leaving 1.5 in (3.8 cm) of basket showing on each side of the strap.
- Line up strap Row 1 with the base edge (Rnd 1). Pin Row 13 to the top of Rnd 9.
- Stitch-to-stitch logic: Work 1 whipstitch through each strap row end and the basket fabric right beside it, sewing both long edges of the strap. Strap Rows 1–13 cover Rnds 1–9, which is 3.75 in (9.5 cm). Leave Rows 14–16 loose for now; you will tack them down after the border.
- Repeat on the other short end with the second strap. Attach the middle basket at Rows 23–35 and the top basket at Rows 45–57 in the same way.
Tension: Pull each stitch snug but not tight. The strap should lie flat with no puckers. If the basket end ripples, your stitches are too tight.
Size checkpoint: Each gap between baskets should be 1.75 in (4.4 cm). Once the border is done, the distance from the bottom of the lowest basket to the rim of the top basket will be 17 in (43.2 cm).
Border (Rim)
Border gauge: 12 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm). Each rim round adds about 0.25 in (0.6 cm).
Fold the loose strap rows away from the basket while you work. Join the yarn at the marked first st of a long side.
Rnd 10: Ch 1, sc in each st around: 20 sc on each long side, 12 sc on each short side. Join. (64 sts)
Rnd 11: Ch 1, sc in each st around (20 / 12 / 20 / 12). Join. (64 sts)
Rnd 12: Ch 1, rsc in each st around (20 / 12 / 20 / 12). Join and fasten off. (64 sts)
Work the border on all 3 baskets. Then tack the loose strap rows to Rnds 10–12 with 1 whipstitch per row: Rows 14–16 on the bottom basket, Rows 36–38 on the middle basket and Rows 58–60 on the top basket.
Why the math works: The border starts with exactly the same 64 sts as the walls (2 x 20 + 2 x 12). Each basket is a single piece, so each side’s count is just that basket’s own side count, with no extra stitches added. Working 1 stitch into each stitch keeps the rim straight, so it neither flares nor pulls in. The rsc round adds the corded edge without changing the width. The walls now measure 3.75 + 0.75 = 4.5 in (11.4 cm).
Hanging Top
- Pass Rows 81–88 of Strap A through the wooden ring from front to back.
- Fold the strap down so Row 88 lies behind Row 73, then whipstitch the doubled section together.
- Repeat with Strap B so it sits right beside Strap A on the ring.
- Sew the inner edges of the two straps together for 1 in (2.5 cm) just below the ring, so they form a single tab.
Final Blocking
- Lightly mist each basket with water until it is just damp.
- Push a toilet roll, or a folded towel of the same size, into each basket to square up the walls.
- Pinch each corner into a soft rounded shape and smooth the rim flat.
- Hang the holder on its hook, or lay it flat with the straps straight. Check that the gaps are 1.75 in (4.4 cm).
- Let it dry completely, at least 24 hours, before removing the forms.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each basket has 64 sts in every round from Rnd 1 to Rnd 12.
- The basketweave shows 3 bands of blocks with no broken blocks at the corners.
- Each basket measures 6.75 x 4 x 4.5 in (17.1 x 10.2 x 11.4 cm).
- The straps are centered, with 1.5 in (3.8 cm) of basket showing on each side.
- The gaps between baskets are 1.75 in (4.4 cm).
- The ring is sewn securely and both straps are the same length.
- All yarn ends are woven in through at least 2 in (5.1 cm) of fabric.
- A roll lying on its side fits each basket and comes out easily.
Troubleshooting
The base curls up. Your sc is too tight. Go up a hook size for the base only.
The walls lean outward. Your post stitches are too loose. Go down a hook size from Rnd 3, or pull each post stitch snug.
The block pattern shifts at the corners. Check that Rnd 1 has exactly 20 / 12 / 20 / 12 sts and that every round starts at the same marker.
The join seam slants. Don’t turn between rounds, and always join into the first st, not the turning chain.
The baskets tilt forward when loaded. Make sure the straps are centered on the short ends and sewn along both edges.
The straps stretch over time. Use cotton or a cotton-blend yarn, or work the straps with a hook one size smaller.
One strap is longer than the other. Count the rows and match the markers before sewing.
Care
Spot clean or hand wash in cool water with mild soap. Press out the water in a towel, reshape with rolls inside and dry flat.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is short. A 6 x 4 in (15.2 x 10.2 cm) base gives 64 sts in Rnd 1. Those 64 sts become 3.75 in (9.5 cm) walls, and the 0.75 in (1.9 cm) rim brings each basket to 4.5 in (11.4 cm). Three baskets with two 1.75 in (4.4 cm) gaps make a 17 in (43.2 cm) column, and the strap leads and ring bring the holder to about 25 in (63.5 cm). Check each step as you go, and all three baskets will match and hang straight.
Happy crocheting!