This three-tier hanging holder stacks three oval baskets on two braided cords. It gives your bathroom a soft, garden-inspired place to keep spare rolls. Each basket has a solid sage green base and wall, with a cream lace rim of tulip fans and pointed petals on top.
The colors are calm and natural: sage green for structure and ivory cream for the lace. The style is part cottage, part modern boho, and it suits light walls, wood accents and trailing plants.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder hangs about 26 in (66.0 cm) from peak to bottom. Each basket measures about 6.75 in (17.1 cm) long, 4.75 in (12.1 cm) wide, and 4 in (10.2 cm) tall. It holds a roll up to about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) across.
Construction is simple. You work an oval base in half double crochet, then a short single crochet wall, then the cream lace rim. You make three baskets, chain two cords with doubled yarn, and sew the baskets to the cords.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished hanging length: about 26 in (66.0 cm)
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: worsted weight (#4) cotton
- Hooks: 4.0 mm (G-6) for baskets; 5.0 mm (H-8) for cords
- Number of pieces: 5 (3 baskets, 2 cords)
- Layout: 1 column of 3 baskets, 2.5 in (6.4 cm) apart
- Basket size: 6.75 x 4.75 in (17.1 x 12.1 cm) base, 4 in (10.2 cm) tall
- Size before border: base plus green wall, about 1.1 in (2.8 cm) tall
- Border depth: cream lace rim, about 2.9 in (7.4 cm)
Materials
Choose a smooth, firm worsted weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds the basket shape well and washes easily. Avoid very soft acrylic, which makes the walls slump.
- Sage green: 150 g, about 255 m (bases, walls, cords)
- Cream: 100 g, about 170 m (lace rims)
These amounts include about 15 percent extra for swatching and joining.
Tools:
- 4.0 mm (G-6) and 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hooks
- 4 stitch markers
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors and measuring tape
- Rustproof pins and a spray bottle
- A toilet roll or rolled towel to use as a blocking form
- A wall peg or hook for hanging
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet
- BLO – back loop only
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sp(s) – space(s)
- rnd – round
- rep – repeat
- RS – right side
Special stitches:
- Fan: (tr, ch 1, tr, ch 1, tr) in the same st. The center tr is the tulip stem; the two outer tr are the leaves.
- Picot (p): ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Make one full basket before starting the other two. It is your real gauge test.
- Hdc gauge (4.0 mm): 16 hdc and 12 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm)
- Sc gauge (4.0 mm): 16 sc and 18 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm)
- Cord gauge (5.0 mm, doubled yarn): 10 ch = 4 in (10.2 cm)
Checkpoints:
- After Rnd 1: about 2.75 x 0.75 in (7.0 x 1.9 cm)
- After Rnd 4: about 4.75 x 2.75 in (12.1 x 7.0 cm)
- After Rnd 7: 6.75 x 4.75 in (17.1 x 12.1 cm)
- After Rnd 12: wall about 1.1 in (2.8 cm) tall
- After Rnd 17: basket about 4 in (10.2 cm) tall
If your base is too big, go down one hook size. If it is too small, go up one size. If the base ruffles, you are working loosely; if it cups strongly, you are working tightly. Fix the hook size before you go on, because the wall and rim follow the base count.
Basket: Oval Base (Green)
Make 3 baskets in total. Instructions are for one.
With green and 4.0 mm hook, ch 12.
Rnd 1: 4 hdc in 3rd ch from hook (end A; the skipped 2 ch do not count), hdc in next 8 ch (side 1), 4 hdc in last ch (end B), rotate to work along the opposite side of the foundation, hdc in next 8 ch (side 2); join with sl st in first hdc. (24 sts: 4 per end, 8 per side)
Rnd 2: Ch 2 (does not count here and throughout), 2 hdc in each of next 4 sts, hdc in next 8 sts, 2 hdc in each of next 4 sts, hdc in next 8 sts; join. (32 sts: 8 per end, 8 per side)
Rnd 3: Ch 2, [hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st] 4 times, hdc in next 8 sts, [hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st] 4 times, hdc in next 8 sts; join. (40 sts: 12 per end)
Rnd 4: Ch 2, [hdc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st] 4 times, hdc in next 8 sts, rep bracket 4 times, hdc in next 8 sts; join. (48 sts: 16 per end)
Rnd 5: Ch 2, [hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in next st] 4 times, hdc in next 8 sts, rep bracket 4 times, hdc in next 8 sts; join. (56 sts: 20 per end)
Rnd 6: Ch 2, [hdc in next 4 sts, 2 hdc in next st] 4 times, hdc in next 8 sts, rep bracket 4 times, hdc in next 8 sts; join. (64 sts: 24 per end)
Rnd 7: Ch 2, [hdc in next 5 sts, 2 hdc in next st] 4 times, hdc in next 8 sts, rep bracket 4 times, hdc in next 8 sts; join. (72 sts: 28 per end, 8 per side)
Each round adds 4 sts at each end, 8 in total. The curves stay flat and the straight sides stay at 8 sts.
Mark the end midpoints: Place a marker in st 14 (middle of end A) and st 50 (middle of end B). The straps attach along these two columns later. They are exactly 36 sts apart, so they divide the base into two equal halves.
Basket: Green Wall
Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around; join. (72 sc)
The BLO round creates a crisp fold where the wall turns upward.
Rnds 9–12: Ch 1, sc in each st around; join. (72 sc)
Move the markers up each round so they stay in st 14 and st 50. Fasten off green. The wall should stand about 1.1 in (2.8 cm) tall with straight sides.
Cords (Make 2)
With 2 strands of green held together and 5.0 mm hook, ch 69. Sl st in back bump of 2nd ch from hook and in back bump of each ch across. (68 sl sts)
Fasten off and weave in. Each cord measures about 27 in (68.6 cm). The doubled yarn and the slip stitches worked into the back bumps give the thick braided look. Each 5 ch you add or remove changes the length by about 2 in (5.1 cm).
Make All Pieces
- Baskets: 3, each with green base and wall plus cream rim
- Cords: 2, green, doubled yarn
- Green: about 40 g per basket and 10 g for both cords
- Cream: about 25 g per basket
Layout (front view, hanging):
/\
/ \ peak (cords overlap)
/ \
|[ B3 ]| top basket
| | 2.5 in gap
|[ B2 ]| middle basket
| | 2.5 in gap
|[ B1 ]| bottom basket
The cords run down the left and right curved ends of each basket.
Joining
Finish the Tulip Lace Rim (see the Border section below) on all three baskets before joining.
Mark the cords: Lay both cords flat side by side. From the bottom end, place pins at 0 in, 4 in (10.2 cm), 6.5 in (16.5 cm), 10.5 in (26.7 cm), 13 in (33.0 cm), and 17 in (43.2 cm). Each 4 in (10.2 cm) section holds one basket; the 2.5 in (6.4 cm) sections between them stay free.
Stitch-to-stitch logic: Each basket attaches only along its two end-midpoint columns (st 14 and st 50). Hold a cord vertically against the outside of the column, with the bottom pin at the base fold.
With green yarn and the tapestry needle, whipstitch the cord to the basket:
- 1 tack at the Rnd 8 fold
- 1 tack in each of Rnds 9–12
- 1 tack in the Rnd 13 sc above the marker
- 1 tack at the Rnd 14 valley sc
- 1 tack at the Rnd 17 picot tip directly above
That is 8 tacks per column, spread over about 10 ch of cord. Repeat on the other end of the basket with the second cord. Attach B1 at 0–4 in, B2 at 6.5–10.5 in, and B3 at 13–17 in.
Tension: Each tack should hold the cord snug against the wall without puckering. Do not stretch the cord while sewing; let it lie at its natural length.
Peak: Above B3, about 10 in (25.4 cm) of each cord remains. Overlap the last 0.5 in (1.3 cm) of the two cord ends and sew them firmly together to form the peak. Each sloping side is about 9.5 in (24.1 cm).
Size checkpoint: Hang the holder. It should measure about 26 in (66.0 cm) from peak to bottom, with all three baskets level and the gaps equal.
Border: Tulip Lace Rim (Cream)
Work this border on each basket after Rnd 12, before joining.
Border gauge: One lace repeat covers 6 sts of Rnd 12 and spans 1.5 in (3.8 cm). Twelve repeats give an 18 in (45.7 cm) rim. The finished rim is about 2.9 in (7.4 cm) deep.
Counts are given per half. Each half runs from one end-midpoint marker to the other and holds 36 base sts.
Rnd 13: With RS facing, join cream with sl st in marked st 14. Ch 1, sc in same st and in each st around; join. (72 sc; 36 per half)
Rnd 14: Ch 1, sc in first st, sk 2 sts, fan in next st, sk 2 sts; *sc in next st, sk 2 sts, fan in next st, sk 2 sts; rep from * 10 more times; join to first sc. (12 sc, 12 fans; 6 of each per half)
The first sc sits at the end A midpoint. Because 36 is divisible by 6, a valley sc also lands at the end B midpoint.
Rnd 15: Sl st in first tr of next fan, ch 1, sc in same tr, dc in ch-1 sp, (dc, ch 2, dc) in center tr, dc in next ch-1 sp, sc in 3rd tr, ch 1; *sc in first tr of next fan, dc in ch-1 sp, (dc, ch 2, dc) in center tr, dc in next ch-1 sp, sc in 3rd tr, ch 1; rep from * 10 more times; join to first sc. (72 sts, 12 ch-2 points, 12 ch-1 bridges; per half 36 sts, 6 points, 6 bridges)
Each arch (sc, dc, dc, ch 2, dc, dc, sc) outlines one tulip fan with a pointed top. The ch-1 bridges sit above the valleys.
Rnd 16: Sl st in next 2 dc and into ch-2 point. Ch 1, sc in same sp; *ch 4, tr in next ch-1 bridge, ch 4, sc in next ch-2 point; rep from * 10 more times, ch 4, tr in last bridge, ch 4; join to first sc. (12 sc, 12 tr, 24 ch-4 sps; per half 6 sc, 6 tr, 12 ch-4 sps)
The ch-4 lines form the diagonal lattice between the two layers. Each tr stands over a valley, including both end midpoints.
Rnd 17: Ch 1, *sc in next sc, (hdc, 2 dc) in next ch-4 sp, (dc, p, dc) in next tr, (2 dc, hdc) in next ch-4 sp; rep from * 11 more times; join to first sc. (108 sts and 12 picots; per half 54 sts and 6 picots)
Fasten off and weave in.
Why the math works: The base ends at 72 sts, and 72 = 12 repeats x 6 sts, so the lace closes with no partial repeat. Each half holds 36 sts, exactly 6 repeats, so both straps land at the same point in the pattern. Rnd 17 puts 8 sts over 2 ch-4 sps, about 2 in (5.1 cm) of chain, which keeps the petals near 4 sts per inch. The extra sts (108 versus 72) make the gentle outward flare at the top.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends before blocking.
- Slip a toilet roll or rolled towel into each basket so the wall stands straight.
- Spray the cream rim until damp, not soaked.
- Shape each petal point upward and pin the picots so they stand evenly.
- Gently pull each arch point into a clean peak.
- Check the base is flat and the oval matches 6.75 x 4.75 in (17.1 x 12.1 cm).
- Let dry completely, about 24 hours.
- Lay the cords flat and straighten them; steam lightly if they twist.
Block the baskets before joining for the neatest result, then lightly re-block after hanging if needed.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each base is 6.75 x 4.75 in (17.1 x 12.1 cm) and lies flat.
- Each basket has 72 sts in Rnds 7–13.
- All three baskets have 12 fans, 12 arches, and 12 petals.
- Valley columns line up with the end-midpoint markers.
- Both cords are about 27 in (68.6 cm) and equal in length.
- Gaps between baskets are 2.5 in (6.4 cm).
- The holder hangs straight, about 26 in (66.0 cm) long.
- All ends are woven in securely.
Troubleshooting
Base ruffles: You are working loosely. Go down a hook size or tighten your hdc.
Base cups: You are working tightly. Go up a hook size.
Wall leans outward: Make sure Rnd 8 is worked in BLO and that you have 72 sts, not more.
Lace ends with a partial repeat: Recount Rnd 13. It must be exactly 72 sc.
Fans overlap or crowd: Check you skipped 2 sts on each side of every fan.
Petals flop: Re-block with more spray and firmer pinning, or use a stiffer cotton.
Baskets tilt: One cord is sewn higher than the other. Re-measure the pin marks and re-tack.
Cords stretch: Use doubled yarn and keep slip stitches firm.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap and press out excess water. Reshape around a roll and dry flat.
Final Notes
Here is the measurement chain from start to finish. Gauge sets the base at 72 sts and 6.75 x 4.75 in (17.1 x 12.1 cm). The wall keeps 72 sts and adds 1.1 in (2.8 cm). The rim divides 72 sts into 12 lace repeats and adds 2.9 in (7.4 cm), for a 4 in (10.2 cm) basket. Three baskets on 27 in (68.6 cm) cords with 2.5 in (6.4 cm) gaps give a holder about 26 in (66.0 cm) long.
Check each stage before moving on, and the finished holder will hang straight and even.
Happy crocheting!