Purple crocheted jellyfish amigurumi with turquoise tentacles, smiling expression, and wooden bead attachment on beige background.

Wavy Lavender Jellyfish Bag Holder Crochet Pattern

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This jellyfish stores plastic grocery bags and hangs on a hook. It has a rounded lavender dome with a smiling face. Under the dome is a scalloped skirt edged in mint. A long wavy tube hangs below the skirt, and eight curly mint tentacles drop from underneath it. You push bags in through the mint cuff at the bottom and pull them out one at a time.

The dome, skirt, tube and hanging loop are soft lavender. The skirt edge, cuff and tentacles are mint, and the cheeks are pink. The eyes are black safety eyes and the smile is embroidered in black. The tube uses a simple wave stitch, and every second round leaves a raised wavy ridge on the outside. You can swap in peach and pink for a second jellyfish that uses the same counts.

The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder is about 17.5 in (44.5 cm) long from the top of the dome to the bottom of the cuff, not counting the hanging loop. The tube is about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide when laid flat.

The main body is one continuous piece, worked from the top down. You work the dome in rounds of double crochet. Next you work the skirt in the front loops of the last dome round. Then you work the tube from the back loops of that same round, so you don’t sew the head to the body. You sew on the tentacles, hanging loop and cheeks at the end.

Finished Size and Construction

  • Finished length: about 17.5 in (44.5 cm), from the dome top to the cuff, without the loop
  • Dome: 48 sts around; about 13.7 in (34.8 cm) around and 6.9 in (17.5 cm) wide when flattened
  • Skirt width with edging: about 8 in (20.3 cm) when flattened
  • Tube: 32 sts around; about 9 in (22.9 cm) around and 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide when flat
  • Cuff opening: 24 sts; about 6 in (15.2 cm) around
  • Tentacles: 8; each about 12 in (30.5 cm) long when coiled
  • Hanging loop: about 5 in (12.7 cm) long
  • Skill level: Easy to Intermediate
  • Terminology: US
  • Yarn weight: Worsted (#4)
  • Hook: 5.0 mm (US H-8)
  • Number of pieces: 1 main body (dome, skirt, tube and cuff in one), plus 8 tentacles, 1 hanging loop and 2 cheeks
  • Layout: One tentacle every 6 sts around the skirt
  • Size before edging: 12 lavender scallops around the dome rim
  • Edging depth: About 0.25 in (0.6 cm) for the mint skirt edge; about 1 in (2.5 cm) for the mint cuff

Materials

Use a smooth worsted yarn so the waves and ridges show clearly. Cotton or a cotton blend holds the dome shape best. Soft acrylic also works, but the skirt will be a little floppier.

  • Lavender (main color): 80 g, about 160 m
  • Mint (contrast): 70 g, about 140 m
  • Pink (cheeks): 3 g, about 6 m
  • Black: about 1 m, for the smile

These amounts include a margin of about 20 percent. They assume a yarn with about 200 m per 100 g.

Tools:

  • 5.0 mm (US H-8) hook
  • 2 black safety eyes, 12 mm
  • Stitch marker
  • Tapestry needle
  • Scissors
  • Measuring tape
  • Rust-proof pins and a spray bottle for blocking

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • MR: magic ring
  • ch: chain
  • sl st: slip stitch
  • sc: single crochet
  • hdc: half double crochet
  • dc: double crochet
  • sc2tog: single crochet 2 together
  • FLO: front loop only
  • BLO: back loop only
  • st(s): stitch(es)
  • rnd(s): round(s)

Scallop: Skip 1 st, 5 dc in the next st, skip 1 st, sc in the next st. Each scallop uses 4 sts of the round below.

Wave Round A: 2 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, 2 hdc around. Each repeat is 8 sts. The top edge of this round rises and falls.

Wave Round B (BLO): 2 dc, 2 hdc, 2 sc, 2 hdc around, worked in back loops only. The tall sts sit over the short sts of Round A, so the top edge becomes level again. The unused front loops of Round A stay on the outside as a wavy ridge.

Gauge and Checkpoints

Gauge: 14 dc and 8 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm). In sc, 16 sts and 18 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm).

Before you make the whole holder, work the dome through Rnd 4 as a test piece. Then check your work at each of these points:

  1. After dome Rnd 4: The flat circle is about 4 in (10.2 cm) across.
  2. After dome Rnd 9: The dome is about 13.7 in (34.8 cm) around the rim and about 4 in (10.2 cm) tall.
  3. After the first 4 wave rnds: The tube is 9 in (22.9 cm) around. One 8-st wave repeat is about 2.25 in (5.7 cm) wide, and each pair of wave rnds is about 1 in (2.5 cm) tall.
  4. After the cuff: The opening is about 6 in (15.2 cm) around.

If your Rnd 4 circle is bigger than 4 in (10.2 cm), switch to a 4.5 mm hook. If it’s smaller, switch to a 5.5 mm hook. A rippled circle means your gauge is too loose. A circle that cups before Rnd 5 means it’s too tight. Change hooks until the circle lies flat.

Close-up of a lavender crocheted item with textured popcorn stitches, twisted purple handles, and mint-green trim.

Dome

Join each rnd with a sl st. The ch 3 at the start of a rnd doesn’t count as a st. Use lavender.

Rnd 1: MR, ch 3, 12 dc in the ring, sl st to the first dc. Pull the ring closed. (12 sts)

Rnd 2: Ch 3, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to join. (24 sts)

Rnd 3: Ch 3, 1 dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st 12 times, sl st to join. (36 sts)

Rnd 4: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 dc in the next st 12 times, sl st to join. (48 sts)

Checkpoint: The circle is about 4 in (10.2 cm) across and lies flat.

Rnds 5–9: Ch 3, 1 dc in each st around, sl st to join. (48 sts in each rnd)

The sides now drop straight down and the piece becomes a dome. It should measure about 4 in (10.2 cm) from the top center to the edge.

Add the face now. Put in the safety eyes between Rnds 6 and 7, with 7 sts between them, and lock the washers on the inside. With black yarn, backstitch a smile about 3 sts wide along Rnd 7, centered under the eyes. Doing this now is easier because the inside of the dome is still open.

Skirt

Rnd 10 (FLO, lavender): Ch 1. Working in the front loops only of Rnd 9, sc in the first st. Then skip 1 st, 5 dc in the next st, skip 1 st, sc in the next st 11 times. To finish, skip 1 st, 5 dc in the next st, skip 1 st, and sl st to the first sc. (12 scallops; all 48 sts of Rnd 9 used, 4 per scallop)

Fasten off the lavender. The back loops of Rnd 9 stay free for the tube.

Tube

Join lavender in any free back loop of Rnd 9, behind the skirt. Mark the first st of each rnd.

Rnd 1 (decrease): Ch 1. Working in the back loops of Rnd 9, 1 sc in the next st, sc2tog 16 times, sl st to join. (16 sc + 16 sc2tog = 32 sts, made from the 48 loops)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st around, sl st to join. (32 sts)

Checkpoint: The tube is about 9 in (22.9 cm) around.

Rnd 3 (Wave Round A): Ch 1, 2 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, 2 hdc 4 times, sl st to join. (32 sts)

Rnd 4 (Wave Round B, BLO): Ch 3, 2 dc, 2 hdc, 2 sc, 2 hdc 4 times, all in back loops, sl st to join. (32 sts)

Start every Round A with ch 1 and every Round B with ch 3. These chains don’t count as sts.

Rnds 5–26: Repeat Rnds 3 and 4 eleven more times. (32 sts in each rnd; 12 wave pairs in total)

Keep the repeats lined up so the dc groups of each Round B sit over the sc groups of the Round A below. This gives you 4 wave crests around the tube, with 2 showing on the front.

Checkpoint: The wave section is about 12 in (30.5 cm) long, and the tube is still 9 in (22.9 cm) around.

Fasten off the lavender.

Make All Pieces

Besides the main body, make these small parts:

  • Tentacles: 8, in mint
  • Hanging loop: 1, in lavender
  • Cheeks: 2, in pink

Tentacle (make 8): With mint, ch 46. Work 3 hdc in the 3rd ch from the hook and 3 hdc in each ch across. (44 ch × 3 = 132 hdc) The strip twists into a corkscrew on its own. Twist it a few more times in the same direction to tighten the coil. Leave a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail for sewing.

Checkpoint: Each coil hangs about 12 in (30.5 cm) long.

Hanging loop: With lavender, ch 41. Sl st in the back bump of the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (40 sl sts) The cord is about 10 in (25.4 cm) long. Fold it in half to make a loop about 5 in (12.7 cm) long.

Cheek (make 2): With pink, MR, 6 sc in the ring, sl st to join. (6 sts) Each cheek is about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) across.

Tentacle layout (looking up under the skirt, using the 48 sts of Rnd 9):

St:   1    7    13   19   25   31   37   43
      T1   T2   T3   T4   T5   T6   T7   T8
      (front center falls between T8 and T1, under the face)

Joining

Sew each tentacle tail onto tube Rnd 1, just under the skirt. Place one tentacle every 6 sts (48 ÷ 6 = 8). Put T8 and T1 on either side of the face’s center line so that no tentacle hangs down the middle of the front.

Make 3 or 4 small stitches through the end of each tentacle and the tube. Keep the stitches firm but not tight, because tight stitches will pucker the tube under the skirt. Weave each tail up and down for at least 1 in (2.5 cm) before trimming.

Sew both ends of the hanging cord side by side at the center top of the dome, through the MR. Place the cheeks on Rnd 7, one just outside each eye, and sew around their edges with a pink running stitch.

Size checkpoint: Hold the holder up by its loop. The tentacles should end about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) above the bottom of the tube. If a tentacle is too long, undo a few chains at its free end and fasten off again.

Border

The holder has two mint edgings, one on the skirt and one at the bottom of the tube.

Edging gauge: In sc, 16 sts = 4 in (10.2 cm).

Skirt edge (mint): Join mint in the sc between two scallops. Work this rnd into the sts of skirt Rnd 10.

Rnd 1: 1 sc in each of the first 2 dc, 2 sc in the center dc, 1 sc in each of the next 2 dc, sl st in the sc 12 times. (6 sc + 1 sl st = 7 sts per scallop; 12 × 7 = 84 sts)

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Why the math works: Rnd 9 has 48 sts and each scallop uses 4 of them. That makes 48 ÷ 4 = 12 scallops with no sts left over. On each scallop, the edging works 1 sc into each of the 5 dc, adds 1 extra sc at the tip, and ends with 1 sl st in the sc (5 + 1 + 1 = 7). The extra sc lets the mint edge curve around the scallop without pulling it flat.

Bottom cuff (mint): Join mint in any st of tube Rnd 26.

Cuff Rnd 1 (decrease): Ch 1, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc2tog 8 times, sl st to join. (16 sc + 8 sc2tog = 24 sts)

Cuff Rnds 2–4: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st around, sl st to join. (24 sts in each rnd)

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Why the math works: The tube has 32 sts. One decrease in every 4 sts gives 32 ÷ 4 = 8 decreases, which leaves 24 sts. At 16 sc per 4 in (10.2 cm), 24 sts make a 6 in (15.2 cm) opening. That’s narrow enough to keep the bags inside but stretches easily when you pull one out. The 4 cuff rnds are about 1 in (2.5 cm) tall.

Final Blocking

  1. Weave in all remaining ends, including any around the eyes and the tentacle tails.
  2. Mist the dome and skirt with water until they’re damp, not soaked.
  3. Fill the dome with a rolled towel or a small upturned bowl so the top stays smooth and round.
  4. Use your fingers to open the 12 scallops evenly. Pin each scallop tip if it needs help.
  5. Lay the tube flat and smooth it to 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide. Pat each wave ridge so the lines look even.
  6. Twist each tentacle into a tight coil and let it hang or lie flat while it dries.
  7. Let everything dry completely before you remove the towel and pins.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

  • The dome is about 13.7 in (34.8 cm) around and holds a round shape.
  • There are exactly 12 scallops, with no gaps or extra sts.
  • The mint skirt edge has 84 sts, 7 per scallop.
  • The tube has 32 sts around and is about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide when flat.
  • There are 12 wave pairs, and the ridges are even.
  • The cuff has 24 sts, and the opening is about 6 in (15.2 cm) around.
  • All 8 tentacles are coiled, about 12 in (30.5 cm) long, and spaced 6 sts apart.
  • The eyes are locked, the smile is centered and the cheeks sit level.
  • The hanging loop is firmly sewn to the top of the dome.
  • The whole holder is about 17.5 in (44.5 cm) long.

Troubleshooting

The dome is flat or ripples. Check your gauge at Rnd 4. Rippling means your stitches are too loose, and cupping means they’re too tight. Change hook size to match the gauge.

The waves don’t line up. Start each Round B with its dc group over the first sc group of Round A, and count 8 sts per repeat.

There’s no raised ridge. Make sure you work Round B in back loops only. If you work it through both loops, the ridge won’t form.

The tentacles don’t curl. Work 3 hdc in every ch, not 2. Then twist each strip by hand and block it.

Bags slip out of the bottom. Add 1 more cuff rnd: sc 2, sc2tog 6 times (12 sc + 6 sc2tog = 18 sts).

The tube twists sideways. This is common in joined rnds. Keep your joins lined up and block the tube straight.

Care

Hand wash in cool water and lay flat to dry. Reshape the dome and twist the tentacles while they’re damp, and don’t tumble dry, since heat can loosen the coils.

Crocheted purple jellyfish toy with happy face and mint-green wavy tentacles hanging on beige wall.

Final Notes

Every measurement comes from the dome. A flat 4 in (10.2 cm) circle at Rnd 4 gives a 48-st rim that measures 13.7 in (34.8 cm) around. That rim makes 12 scallops and a 32-st tube that is 9 in (22.9 cm) around. Twelve wave pairs add 12 in (30.5 cm) of length, and the 24-st cuff narrows the bottom to a 6 in (15.2 cm) opening. If you check each step in order, your jellyfish will come out about 17.5 in (44.5 cm) long and ready to hang by the door.

Happy crocheting!

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